Knots for Flourocarbon

[slinging southpaw]

After having some issues with the "Superlines" I've been hesitant to try Flourocarbon lines. This spring I'm planning on using Flourocarbon as leader material, but I've heard that Palomar(which is what I use 90% of the time) knots don't hold up well on Flourocarbons. I also use the Trilene knot and was wondering what most of you guys tie when using Flourocarbon.

Thanks

[Guest avid]

I never heard of the palomer being a problem with fluro line.

I have had probelems though, because I find flouro can be more brittle than mono

[Fish Chris]

Hello Slinging Southpaw. Issues with superline ? Was it too thin ? Too strong ? Not enough memory ? ;-) As a superline fanatic, I just had to rib you a bit. :-)

Seriously though, fluorocarbon (which is really just a glorified mono-filament) and braid are totally night and day. I do use fluorocarbon as a leader material, in conjunction with my braided superline. I find that a quality fluorocarbon such as Seaguar, has excellent knot strength with all the typical knots used with braid and mono. I too prefer to use a palomar to attach my hooks and lures, or sometimes an improved clinch, or bloodknot. All of these knots work great with braid, mono, or fluorocarbon.

I've said this before, but I have to say it again..... and please read this like 10 X's !!!

>>> The trick with tying good knots (of any type, with any line) is in being able to detect when you have tied a lousy one, and just cutting it off and trying again. It should cinch down smoothly, evenly, and completely, leaving a nice, uniform knot. If not, try again.... and again, if you have to. Never fish with a lame knot, or you will lose fish ! Guaranteed" !!!!!!!!! <<<

Peace,

Fish

[slinging southpaw]

Hello Slinging Southpaw. Issues with superline ? Was it too thin ? Too strong ? Not enough memory ? ;-) As a superline fanatic, I just had to rib you a bit. :-)

Seriously though, fluorocarbon (which is really just a glorified mono-filament) and braid are totally night and day. I do use fluorocarbon as a leader material, in conjunction with my braided superline. I find that a quality fluorocarbon such as Seaguar, has excellent knot strength with all the typical knots used with braid and mono. I too prefer to use a palomar to attach my hooks and lures, or sometimes an improved clinch, or bloodknot. All of these knots work great with braid, mono, or fluorocarbon.

I've said this before, but I have to say it again..... and please read this like 10 X's !!!

>>> The trick with tying good knots (of any type, with any line) is in being able to detect when you have tied a lousy one, and just cutting it off and trying again. It should cinch down smoothly, evenly, and completely, leaving a nice, uniform knot. If not, try again.... and again, if you have to. Never fish with a lame knot, or you will lose fish ! Guaranteed" !!!!!!!!! <<<

Peace,

Fish

The problems that I've had with superlines is that they cut like paper around rocks, which amazes me because it's such a pain to cut when your trying to cut it. I love the stuff in heavy weeds and used it on spinning rods with a mono leader.

The worst I've used is "Power Pro". Stealth didn't impress me either. What I use now is Stren Superbraid. I haven't had nearly as much problems with Stren, but by the time I started using it, I had learned braids limitations and avoided rocks.

I've never had problems with my knots. I had just heard from some Pros(Aaron Martens was one) that "you shouldn't use a Palomar knots while drop shotting with Flourocarbons because your line will break".

[R1Peacock]

Fish Chris said it right...  A good knot is a good knot and a bad knot is a bad knot.  I use flourocarbon line as a leader on braid if I am fishing clear water or if I want a faster fall rate.  If you purchase a high quality flourcarbon line such as P-Line Halo or Seaguar you should have no problem as long as you tie the the right way and watch it as it cinches.  I would suggest wetting the line before you tie to act as a lubricant.  Some of the cheaper flourocarbon lines on the market are brittle and knots can fail due to cutting into each other.  Stick with a high quality line and it will limit the failures.

[.ghoti.]

Any knot you can tie well will work with flouro if you do one thing. Cinch it up slowly, very slowly. Flouro generates more friction  when drawing down the knot than mono, and is damaged more quickly by friction generated heat than is flouro line. A Palomar knot will work just fine in flouro line. Fish Chris is dead on about checking and re-tying your knots.

Cheers,

GK

PS, don't worry about Chris ribbin ya about the braid. He got me too. He uses braid for everything, I think. I use fluoro for plastics and mono for everything else except my muskie rods. I use braid for those.

[slinging southpaw]

PS, don't worry about Chris ribbin ya about the braid. He got me too. He uses braid for everything, I think. I use fluoro for plastics and mono for everything else except my muskie rods. I use braid for those.

I'm not worried about that, I fished with a guy at the STQT on Lake Champlain that scoffed at me when I questioned him about useing Power Pro braid Carolina Rigging for smallmouths, then watched him lose at least 5 Carolina rigs when they cut on rocks.

I thought the stuff would be perfect for a carolina rig before the same thing had happened to me.

[Wayne P.]

I use the uni-knot of all connections with fluorocarbon, never have a problem. My favorite braid is Stren Super Braid.

[Panamoka_Bassin]

Personally, I like to use Berkley Vanish floro rather than the Pro.  I think it flows through the guides better and is less visible under water (and sometimes above!).  Up on LI, we don't get too many fish more than 5-7 lbs, so 10lb test has always been good.  The only time I really use braid is if I'm pitching into dense brush or getting deep into the lillies.

The only knot I use is the improved clinch knot.  I've been using this since I was a kid, for both salt and fresh, and like it was said above, a good knot is a good knot.

[Fish Chris]

As for braid cutting easily on rocks, yes, this is just one of several reasons I always use a high quality fluorocarbon leader, in conjuction with my braided mainline.

Problem solved :-)

Peace,

Fish

[slinging southpaw]

As for braid cutting easily on rocks, yes, this is just one of several reasons I always use a high quality fluorocarbon leader, in conjuction with my braided mainline.

Problem solved :-)

Peace,

Fish

If you have the braided line with a sinker, glass bead, clakker then swivel /then a Flourocarbon leader, how is the problem solved? The braided line is still dragging across the rocks because that's where the sinker is. It may be solved on mud and sand, but just thinking about getting it near a rock will make it come apart

[Wayne P.]

Solving the braid/rock problem. It's so easy you'll say "why didn't I think of that". Get some small diameter rubber hose, cut a piece about 1/4" in length, slide it on the main line before putting on the sinker and tie as usual. The rubber will keep the area of the line at the sinker from contacting the rocks or other abrasive substances and as a side benefit, it will reduce hangups in the rocks due to it's flexibility.

[Stringjam]

For lines up to 14 lb test or so, whether mono or floro - - try tying a clinch knot with a DOUBLED line (no need to go back through the loop).   This is an easy knot to tie consistently and it is stronger than Mr. T.      

[slinging southpaw]

Solving the braid/rock problem. It's so easy you'll say "why didn't I think of that". Get some small diameter rubber hose, cut a piece about 1/4" in length, slide it on the main line before putting on the sinker and tie as usual. The rubber will keep the area of the line at the sinker from contacting the rocks or other abrasive substances and as a side benefit, it will reduce hangups in the rocks due to it's flexibility.

Putting the rubber hose over the line sounds like a good idea, but only 1/4"? I always ad a rubber collar just before the knot to the swivel to protect the knot, but I would think, you would need maybe 4"-6" before the sinker to do any good.

Thanks for the idea