BassSteve Posted Saturday at 04:03 PM Posted Saturday at 04:03 PM hey guys I know there are a lot of rods made specifically for crankbaits, usually made of a glass composite and are typically more moderate action. but can a similar rod perform almost the same? Say for example you have a 7ft medium heavy moderate glass composite rod, but instead you use a 7ft medium fast action rod. does stepping down in power allow the medium rod to have more of a "parabolic" action better suited for using crankbaits even though it is fast action? or do you just simply lose backbone to the rod by doing that and it wouldnt make much difference? I was just wondering about your opinions on this... Quote
rangerjockey Posted Saturday at 04:15 PM Posted Saturday at 04:15 PM I think so but it depends on the particular rod. I have a old Razr 7ft medium power rod that is my favorite wiggle wart /RK crawler rod. I'm sure it was intended for a top water rod or stick bait rod but for me the action is perfect. When my boat got hit by the Tornado last July I was more worried about that rod than any NRX. 1 Quote
MediumMouthBass Posted Saturday at 06:16 PM Posted Saturday at 06:16 PM 5 hours ago, BassSteve said: Say for example you have a 7ft medium heavy moderate glass composite rod, but instead you use a 7ft medium fast action rod. does stepping down in power allow the medium rod to have more of a "parabolic" action better suited for using crankbaits even though it is fast action? The stiffest/least parabolic rod i own is a 7'2" M-F rod, so id say thats a no for most rods brands as a whole. Theres several M-M rods on the market, but most are very flimsy and weak on the ratings. A cranking rod will help you alot on the water, from reduced strain on the body casting over and over again, to better hookup percentages, etc, etc. But these can get expensive, especially when you need 1 for light cranks, 1 for squarebills, and 1 for deep divers... The best alternatives ive found are 2 options. #1. Take any MH-F rod, use mono or hybrid for line, and loosen the drag. I fished all the crankbaits my heart desired for years when i didnt have a cranking rod. Didnt lose a single bass from 2-10lbs (although there were several before the drag got loosened). #2. This is the best alternative to a cranking rod, works great for lipless cranks, crankbaits, even lighter deep divers, chatterbaits, buzzbaits, and swimjigs. The 2 piece (its got to be a 2 piece to get the most parabolic action it can get) 7' MH F (its not a fast, its moderate-moderate fast) Aird X. It costs $25-55 depending on sales and keeps up with all my cranking rods. 1 Quote
Bass Rutten Posted Saturday at 06:27 PM Posted Saturday at 06:27 PM The step down in power does not affect the taper which is where the blank of the rod bends. I use an old st croix avid x 7ft med/fast exclusively for spooks, traps, mid-divers (dt6), and squarebills (+/-1/2oz), combined with a 10-12lb mono or co-polymer line I have an exceptional hookup/landing ratio. I used to use a dobyns 705cb (7ft mh/mod-fast) for the exact same applications. While the med/fast may technically give up a little power it's barely noticeable in use, but what I feel I gained was better hookset power which is what I attribute to my high hookup/landing ratio. The x-factor here is that different rod companies can vary a bit on their power and taper ratings. 1 Quote
BassSteve Posted Saturday at 06:35 PM Author Posted Saturday at 06:35 PM 17 minutes ago, MediumMouthBass said: The stiffest/least parabolic rod i own is a 7'2" M-F rod, so id say thats a no for most rods brands as a whole. Theres several M-M rods on the market, but most are very flimsy and weak on the ratings. A cranking rod will help you alot on the water, from reduced strain on the body casting over and over again, to better hookup percentages, etc, etc. But these can get expensive, especially when you need 1 for light cranks, 1 for squarebills, and 1 for deep divers... The best alternatives ive found are 2 options. #1. Take any MH-F rod, use mono or hybrid for line, and loosen the drag. I fished all the crankbaits my heart desired for years when i didnt have a cranking rod. Didnt lose a single bass from 2-10lbs (although there were several before the drag got loosened). #2. This is the best alternative to a cranking rod, works great for lipless cranks, crankbaits, even lighter deep divers, chatterbaits, buzzbaits, and swimjigs. The 2 piece (its got to be a 2 piece to get the most parabolic action it can get) 7' MH F (its not a fast, its moderate-moderate fast) Aird X. It costs $25-55 depending on sales and keeps up with all my cranking thanks, interesting point about it being important using a two piece rod to achieve the effect. I do own 2 dedicated crankbait rods but I was just curious about this 9 minutes ago, Bass Rutten said: The step down in power does not affect the taper which is where the blank of the rod bends yeah that would be the more critical thing, and like you mention different companies go by different standards. a medium fast rod for one company might be more stiff compared to another's medium fast Quote
Super User WRB Posted Saturday at 06:58 PM Super User Posted Saturday at 06:58 PM Absolutely correct about power / action ratings between rod mfrs, no standard it’s personal preference. Today I use Major Craft Iovino Splash-It 6’8” MF casting rod for all my utility top water lures, lt T-rigs, square bills and medium divers between 1/4 - 1/2 oz. Suggest looking at MF top water rods they seem to have fast flexible tips and cast the 1/4-1/2 oz lures with ease and enough flex / bounce to feel lure movement well. Tom Quote
The Baron Posted Saturday at 07:37 PM Posted Saturday at 07:37 PM I can't speak for heavier crankbaits on a fast action rod, but I fish square bills on a Fenwick Elite Tech 7' medium/fast. With 10# co-poly on a Diawa cc80, it works very well for me and is a pleasure to fish. I fish medium crank baits (up to about 12ft.) on a Dobyn's Fury FR705CB crank bait rod with 12# co-poly. For heavier crank baits (16ft.+) I've gone to a 7'6" H/moderate glass cranking rod with 14# fluoro. I like the glass rod a lot, and would say the specialized cranking rod is definitely worth it for several reasons. 1 Quote
BassSteve Posted Saturday at 08:08 PM Author Posted Saturday at 08:08 PM 30 minutes ago, The Baron said: I like the glass rod a lot, and would say the specialized cranking rod is definitely worth it for several reasons yeah I just ordered an expride 7ft 2 glass composite rod can't wait it will be here tomorrow 😎 out of all fishing techniques, crankbait fishing is my favorite 2 Quote
The Baron Posted Saturday at 08:30 PM Posted Saturday at 08:30 PM 16 minutes ago, BassSteve said: yeah I just ordered an expride 7ft 2 glass composite rod can't wait it will be here tomorrow 😎 out of all fishing techniques, crankbait fishing is my favorite Nice. You’re gonna love it. 👍🏻 Quote
MRQturbo Posted Saturday at 09:51 PM Posted Saturday at 09:51 PM 1 hour ago, BassSteve said: yeah I just ordered an expride 7ft 2 glass composite rod can't wait it will be here tomorrow 😎 out of all fishing techniques, crankbait fishing is my favorite That's my favourite bladed jig rod... I'm not a fan of glass rods for cranking... 1 Quote
BassSteve Posted Saturday at 09:57 PM Author Posted Saturday at 09:57 PM 4 minutes ago, MRQturbo said: That's my favourite bladed jig rod... I'm not a fan of glass rods for cranking... well hopefully it can do the job 😃 Quote
rangerjockey Posted 13 hours ago Posted 13 hours ago That's a good choice. I like glass. Of course I remember when we used glass for jig and worms. I've been using The AA Rebound for a while now and it's great. Quote
Dan N Posted 12 hours ago Posted 12 hours ago Love cranking, and have 6 rods just for it, but I would say, a medium/fast action rod would certainly work. Maybe mono for a little stretch, and watch the drag setting. Rods actions are not consistent. the printed rating on the rod is not a reason to say it will work for only certain methods. If it works for you, that’s all that matters 😎 1 Quote
BassSteve Posted 12 hours ago Author Posted 12 hours ago 11 minutes ago, Dan N said: the printed rating on the rod is not a reason to say it will work for only certain methods. If it works for you, that’s all that matters 😎 I guess that's very true for a lot of situations Quote
LCG Posted 31 minutes ago Posted 31 minutes ago This is the frustrating part of fishing... No standards to go by, I have found that line choice can really effect how a rod behaves due to the stretch factor of the line. Example is the previously mention Daiwa Aird-X 7ft MH-F 2 piece rod. I own two of them and really like them. With mono or copolymer line it can fish crankbaits. With braided line it's a good bladed jig rod. It's on the light side of MH and the action is moderate fast. My unicorn rods are Daiwa Rebellion and Tatula XT 6'10 MH-R, regular action being moderate fast. These are graphite rods, not glass. They seem to do everything really well. True MH power and a moderate fast action. I have used it for weightless plastics, #3 mepps, 3/8oz crankbaits, 5/16 finesse spinnerbaits to 1oz spinnerbaits, 1/4oz texas rigs, 3/8-1/2oz chatterbaits, weedless spoons, 1/2oz jigs, etc. Works well with 12lb yo zuri hybrid or 30-50lb braid. They are both JDM models that I came across locally, hard to find in my area. My favorite rods I have used thus far, love their versatility and feel. Quote
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