RRocket Posted Tuesday at 06:19 AM Posted Tuesday at 06:19 AM I've been using it for the last couple of seasons but a bit haphazard and without a standard. I'd try this knot or that, with this length or that, etc It will be ice out here soon (hopefully!) and this is the time of year where the pike are like pests. So I just want to see what others are doing in the hope that I can find a standard. I primarily use the AFW with 3/8 bladed jig or a 3/8 (or so) topwater crankbait. I also throw these throughout the year in areas pike frequent. Just curious on others length, connection knots, leader-to-lure knot, etc Quote
wolfe_ohara Posted Tuesday at 06:48 AM Posted Tuesday at 06:48 AM i connect to my braid with an albright, and my quick snap/lure with a 3 or 4 wrap san diego jam. length is usually 18-24 inches. i throw mostly "bigger" swimbaits and topwater, in the 1-5oz range 1 Quote
softwateronly Posted Thursday at 03:15 AM Posted Thursday at 03:15 AM Alberto for the braid connection and I spent time rigging and got quick tying a flying bowline an it's been the easiest for lure connections. I should try a 3-4 wrap sdj for swim and regular jigs this year. Tired of losing them. scott Quote
10,000 lakes Bassin Posted Thursday at 05:07 PM Posted Thursday at 05:07 PM Would it be pointless to tie braid to a 6-8ft 30lb fluoro leader, then tie the wire to the fluoro? I’ve never used this stuff but im I’m going to throw swimbaits this year and I know I’ll want some. 1 Quote
Super User Scott F Posted Thursday at 09:19 PM Super User Posted Thursday at 09:19 PM While the wire is tieable, it’s not like tying fishing line. The tricky part is pulling the knot tight. The wire will pig tail easily. Because the wire is pricey, I don’t like leaving much of a tag end that I’ll be throwing away. I use a pair of hemostats to help me tie. It takes some practice to make leaders that lay straight without the wire curling. I recommend making them in advance as trying to tie them in the boat can be time consuming. I don’t tie the wire directly to my main line. I make individual leaders that I can reuse. Trying to keep the weight down, I tie a small, oval split ring to one end of the leader that will attach to my main line, and a loop knot or a snap on the other end to attach to my lure. The wire leader length depends on the size of the lure I’ll be using. As a general rule, I make them 6-8 inches long. Quote
RRocket Posted Thursday at 09:39 PM Author Posted Thursday at 09:39 PM 10 minutes ago, Scott F said: While the wire is tieable, it’s not like tying fishing line. The tricky part is pulling the knot tight. The wire will pig tail easily. Because the wire is pricey, I don’t like leaving much of a tag end that I’ll be throwing away. I use a pair of hemostats to help me tie. It takes some practice to make leaders that lay straight without the wire curling. I recommend making them in advance as trying to tie them in the boat can be time consuming. I don’t tie the wire directly to my main line. I make individual leaders that I can reuse. Trying to keep the weight down, I tie a small, oval split ring to one end of the leader that will attach to my main line, and a loop knot or a snap on the other end to attach to my lure. The wire leader length depends on the size of the lure I’ll be using. As a general rule, I make them 6-8 inches long. I agree that you can't use just any knot. The knot I use only requires a figure of eight knot from the wire which is quite easy to do and doesn't pigtail. This is the same connecting knot I use often for braid to mono as well. My leaders have been 6"-12" long....I haven't settled on the length yet. Not sure if it matters? Great info so far! Quote
Super User A-Jay Posted Thursday at 10:18 PM Super User Posted Thursday at 10:18 PM @RRocket I have been an AFW user & abuser for many years here in the north woods. Plenty of toothy critters in Lake Menderchuck. I've learned some lessons along the way. The uni to uni knots works for both the leader connection knot and the lure tie. Main line type doesn't come into play as I've been using it successfully on braid, FC and mono. IME, leader length is fairly important. While I realize this product is not cheap, I also realize that plus size pike & Muskie (common bait stealers) have a BIG HEAD with a Deep mouth & throat; Like 20 plus inches deep when they totally engulf my bait. So not accounting for that (like using a wire leader length far shorter than that) is just asking to get bit off. I've mentioned before here that AFW WILL drag down any bait (including suspending baits) when a proper length is used. It's a trade off and something to keep in mind. Either way I rarely make them so long that they are going in & out of the my rod guides during the cast. That can get pretty hard on the connection not. Good Luck A-Jay I talk about the AWF wire at the end of this clip https://youtu.be/gSHOgDGlJGE?feature=shared&t=9 Quote
RRocket Posted Thursday at 11:39 PM Author Posted Thursday at 11:39 PM 15 minutes ago, A-Jay said: @RRocket Plenty of toothy critters in Lake Menderchuck. I've learned some lessons along the way. Was hoping you'd check in! 😃 All excellent points. I'm less North than you and they don't get as huge here as in your videos..we have Musky for that! It's primarily the hammer handle size to 24" Pike that are problematic for me. Bowfin too, but to a lesser extent. And very early in the spring Long Nosed Gar. The knot I use is similar to uni-to-uni, but you only use one uni which saves on wasted tag length for wire. Double Figure 8+ Uni. I can easily tie in the boat. See video. Thanks for chiming in and adding your insights! 1 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.