DEPS_250 Posted February 16 Posted February 16 I am slowly finding out that the more aerodynamic a bait is and/or the less air resistance the bait has in the air... The more I feel like I can get away with using a shorter rod, while still achieving some good distance. The more I like to use a rod where the bait’s weight falls on the heavier end of the rod’s ‘sweet spot’ and therefore forces more bend in the back cast in order to achieve more distance. The more I like to use a rod that has a softer and more parabolic action overall and therefore forces more bend in the back cast in order to achieve more distance. I feel like when I have found the right rod for a specific bait, based on the variables above... The more I get a 'dialed in feeI' with the brakes in order to maximize distance, while minimizing backlashes. The more I get a 'dialed in feeI' with the spool tension in order to maximize distance, while minimizing backlashes. With that said, I feel like the bait’s aerodynamics and/or air resistance has a substantial affect on an angler’s rod choice and also on the ease and/or frustration of setting up reel brakes and the spool tension. I have found that when I have reached a good combination of all of the variables above, is when my gear feels 'dialed in' and like I have reached the perfect balance of achieving maximum distance while also minimizing backlashes. When I feel like my gear is dialed in, my casts feel a lot more accurate and a lot more efficient, therefore I make more casts and cover a lot more water and ultimately, I catch more fish. Seems like the less aerodynamic and/or the more air resistance the bait has in the air, the harder it is for me to find that perfect balance of achieving maximum distance while also minimizing backlashes. I was curious to know if anyone else in here also feels the same way about a baits aerodynamics and/or are constantly thinking about how much air resistance a bait has? Or, is it just me? Also, I don't know if it's pure coincidence and/or irony but some of my favorite/confidence baits that get bit the most, are also the baits that have the BEST aerodynamics and/or the least air resistance and that cast the best in all situations! Go figure! I am willing to bet that 100% of all anglers out there are also in the same boat! 1 Quote
PBBrandon Posted February 16 Posted February 16 Sometimes I go to the lake just to launch lipless crankbaits. 7’2” MHM LTB + Zillion SV + 12lb FC + Quake 70 is a joy to fish if I’m lucky a few fish are interested as well 1 Quote
looking45 Posted February 16 Posted February 16 IMHO, you are overthinking this. The easier it is to cast a bait, the more you’re going to use it. The more you use it, the more bites you’re going to get. It’s not rocket science 4 Quote
GRiver Posted February 16 Posted February 16 @DEPS_250, have you balanced your set-up? It makes the rod and reel feel lighter, although it’s not, it works together with the aerodynamics, and the ease of casting/ distance. I love it when everything is balanced and dialed in, wether your casting short or long. I’m probably overthinking it like @looking45 said. 1 Quote
Super User LrgmouthShad Posted February 16 Super User Posted February 16 12 hours ago, DEPS_250 said: I am willing to bet that 100% of all anglers out there are also in the same boat! I always knew I was a duck hunter 1 Quote
Super User GreenPig Posted February 16 Super User Posted February 16 Yes. Helicoptering glidebaits drive me insane. Quote
Super User king fisher Posted February 17 Super User Posted February 17 For me it doesn't matter how far I can cast a lure. I will still try and get that extra couple feet that wont help in any way catch a bass. I keep backing off the brakes, use lighter pressure with my thumb, throw harder and harder, until I can feel the line start to fluff, then I am happy. Of course after a couple of casts at the very edge of the backlash cliff, I give that one last extra push, and off the cliff I go. Then I get to practice my backlash removal skills. One of these days I hope to learn how to catch bass close to the boat, as well as I know how to remove a backlash. 1 1 Quote
MediumMouthBass Posted February 17 Posted February 17 Im a long distance caster above all else. I take pride in casting many more yards farther than everyone else that fishes from the mostly bank fished over pressured smaller lakes and reservoirs. I just love to throw a 1/2oz lipless crank, for several reasons. One of them being how aerodynamic they are, ill throw them on a 7'3" MH F rod, i know for how i cast anything less in length including 7' will result in a drastic change resulting is less distance. For other rods i need atleast a 7'3"-7'4" as i know this will give me the optimum success. And for reels even though im young im old school, spool tension set as close to side to side play as possible while still letting the lure fall controlled. And the brakes are set between 20%-40% depending on which brand reel im using since the Lews dont like being low where the Daiwas and Shimanos shine there for me. I also prefer to rely on my thumb than some fancy braking system. Ive learned for me that the rod has more to do with my distance and lack of backlash or birdsnest than the reel. If i start casting with too much effort i will notice a decrease in distance, and then maybe some loose line laying on top. If i turn up the brakes it worsens distance but the spool and line are fine. Now if i start casting with a more free flowing gentle motion i can start gaining that distance again, and then i just turn the brakes down even lower. That distance grows and grows, and no backlashes. But if i see or hear a bass jump in the distance and get excited ill put more effort into the cast, and that reels toast for 10 minutes. On 2/15/2025 at 4:49 PM, DEPS_250 said: Seems like the less aerodynamic and/or the more air resistance the bait has in the air, the harder it is for me to find that perfect balance of achieving maximum distance while also minimizing backlashes. I was curious to know if anyone else in here also feels the same way about a baits aerodynamics and/or are constantly thinking about how much air resistance a bait has? Or, is it just me? I find the balance is the same for me regardless of what rod or reel i use, bait or lure too for that matter. As long as the rod im using is 7'3" and i keep my cast motion a certain way i can get very good distance without backlashes even on lower braking for any bait except 3/8 cranks and weightless soft plastics (dont have the right rod for either yet). I also set and forget my brakes on most of my reels once i get it dialed in btw, so maybe ive just become accustom with how my reels will act time after time. 1 Quote
Super User WRB Posted February 22 Super User Posted February 22 Rods cast lures reels hold line is the old tried and true phrase. Aerodynamics is easy to understand think of 1/2 oz lures 1 a buzz bait with a big blade the other a jig. The blade on the buzz bait spins in wind slowing down during the cast, the has little wind resistance to slow it down. Everything being equal the jig will travel 2X distance then the buzz bait. A moderate action rod with more parabolic bend will lunch lures of the weight further then fast or extra fast action rod of the same length. So many factors come into play as we select rods, reels and line to perform our presentations with ease. Tom Quote
Susky River Rat Posted February 22 Posted February 22 I don’t always cast far but when I do it’s right I to a tree I never thought I’d reach. 1 4 Quote
Super User Darth-Baiter Posted February 22 Super User Posted February 22 Just get a touch closer to the target. Even if it means I’m putting in chest waders. Quote
Global Moderator Mike L Posted February 22 Global Moderator Posted February 22 I’d say about 70% of my offerings are by flipping and pitching. Some outings it’s 90 However when blind casting I still have a plan maybe not to a specific spot but definitely into certain areas. My point being I don’t put too much emphasis on aerodynamics regardless of what I tie on. But that’s just me. Mike 1 Quote
BassKat Posted February 22 Posted February 22 Aside from topwater, fishing extremely high-wind fronts is my second passion. If I have good color to the water, which I usually do where I fish, I'm usually throwing a 1/2oz spinnerbait directly into 20-35mph winds with even higher gusts. It's the perfect lure (once it's in the water) for the conditions, but it's sure not the most aerodynamic. Ultimately, I sacrifice distance for throwing the right lure in the right place at the right time. If the conditions don't necessarily tell me one bait is likely superior and I'm using long casts with a search bait to cover water and locate fish, I can see selecting the most aerodynamic of the baits that I suspect might work, especially with pressured fish, and selecting the set-up that maximizes that distance makes sense. Quote
Super User geo g Posted February 23 Super User Posted February 23 I often throw plastics because our shallow weedy bodies of water have an abundance of pads, and grasses, that stick up above the surface. I usually use light weight plastics when fan casting, and wind can be a problem when casting these light baits. I use quality reels and rods and once the wind is above 15 a will cast with the wind from my back if possible, or increase breaking and shorten the distance if casting into the wind. Jigs, and heavier swimbaits are never a problem because of the weight. Wind will sometimes dictate what I'm doing and how I'm doing it. Time on the water usually fixes any of these problems. One other thing, after making the cast, I always take a quick look at the spool and make sure the line is tight as it starts starts coming onto the reel. This only takes a second, and not something I think about, it's automatic. This eliminates problems down the road on future casts. Good luck! Quote
Super User TOXIC Posted February 23 Super User Posted February 23 The old days of max distance casts are over. There’s no bait that I want to put at what I would consider my max cast ability. Why? Because my chances of hooking and landing a bass decrease with the longer distance I cast. Even with the no stretch characteristics of braid, firm hooksets can be a challenge and the increased distance I have to fight the fish gives them more opportunity to throw the hook or lure. Also take into consideration the factors you choose to get maximum distance with your rod, change once you hook a fish at the end of that max cast. What helped you get all that airtime now works against you fighting and landing the fish. That’s not to say I don’t make some long casts but it’s very rare and even more rare is me making a “max cast”. My setups now are more tuned to fighting and landing more than distance casting. 2 Quote
Global Moderator Mike L Posted February 23 Global Moderator Posted February 23 Exactly, That’s me also! Biggest reason I much prefer to flip and pitch more than anything else. Plus it’s easier and much quicker to get her head up and out Mike Quote
Super User Columbia Craw Posted February 24 Super User Posted February 24 What techniques truly require maximum distance? Deep cranks, burning big spinnerbaits over huge flats and top waters reaching schoolers? Those baits on the right combo throw well to very well. 1 Quote
BassKat Posted February 24 Posted February 24 I used to fish in a really clear lake (highly unusual for me). During high pressure, when fish were under shoreline grass beds, I stood a much higher chance of getting bit if I stayed way off, but ensured I could still get my lure to hit the weeds instead of the water in front. Quote
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