txchaser Posted February 2 Posted February 2 Any tips on how to dial in a force trolling motor to be more smooth with adjustments? Trying to track baits on livescope is really hard when the pedal feels a little sticky for lack of a better way to say it. Maybe turn the friction down? Maybe everyone is putting TS-321 or grease on a joint somewhere? Or perhaps theres a setting? If the TM moves 1 degree that's a lot out in the 80ft range. Quote
Global Moderator 12poundbass Posted February 5 Global Moderator Posted February 5 Any thoughts @Todd Driscoll? 1 Quote
Todd Driscoll Posted February 5 Posted February 5 Yes, you can loosen the tension to see if this helps. The tension adjustment screw is located on the left side of the pedal. Also, apply a little WD-40 silicone spray on the friction points and brake disc. Access the brake disc through the underside of the pedal. Apply a little silicone to your finger and rub some on the disc. Just a little. Excess silicone may reduce the brake disc friction too much and result in the pedal being too loose. 1 Quote
txchaser Posted February 7 Author Posted February 7 On 2/5/2025 at 6:52 AM, Todd Driscoll said: Yes, you can loosen the tension to see if this helps. The tension adjustment screw is located on the left side of the pedal. Also, apply a little WD-40 silicone spray on the friction points and brake disc. Access the brake disc through the underside of the pedal. Apply a little silicone to your finger and rub some on the disc. Just a little. Excess silicone may reduce the brake disc friction too much and result in the pedal being too loose. Thanks @Todd Driscoll Quote
fish'n Jim Posted Wednesday at 09:02 PM Posted Wednesday at 09:02 PM Is the TM jerking or just the image? The image has to recompute every time it changes position, so you get those "fuzzy areas" until it stops moving. It's nto like a movey. The sonar signal has to go out and come back before an image and that's a slow speed compared to light. I've used 2nd gen(plus) on two different era Ultrexs and see no issues. I haven't tried it on my spare yet but had no issues before. I rotated TMs during the install. Same on the old boat that had the first gen. Takes a little getting used to. Price of TMs and selection today is suspect. I haven't seen it make any difference in the catch department, of course, I learned pre-electronics and "grew up" with them since the first gen flasher. Quote
txchaser Posted Thursday at 06:56 AM Author Posted Thursday at 06:56 AM 9 hours ago, fish'n Jim said: Is the TM jerking or just the image? The image has to recompute every time it changes position, so you get those "fuzzy areas" until it stops moving. It's nto like a movey. The sonar signal has to go out and come back before an image and that's a slow speed compared to light. I've used 2nd gen(plus) on two different era Ultrexs and see no issues. I haven't tried it on my spare yet but had no issues before. I rotated TMs during the install. Same on the old boat that had the first gen. Takes a little getting used to. Price of TMs and selection today is suspect. I haven't seen it make any difference in the catch department, of course, I learned pre-electronics and "grew up" with them since the first gen flasher. It is the TM - I need to be able to make finer movements. Some of it is skill issue, but I think the comment above about making sure the friction spots are lubricated and fiddling with the screw will help. Quote
dwtaylor Posted 15 hours ago Posted 15 hours ago There is a little bit of pedal pick up tension/stick that I only notice when I just start using the pedal. I tightened my pedal tension screws up though so that makes sense as why it does that. I came from a motorguide so I wanted a higher tension feel. With that said, I can get pretty dialed in after that. I have an lvs32 with a fish obsessed dominator mount that made a world of difference for me to get lined up properly. I can see my bait at 80 feet without issue by lining up my trolling motor with my line. Practice makes perfect here. I don't agree that 1 degree at 80 feet makes a difference as that is about 16 inches of error. The beam width is much wider than 16 inches at that distance so you are going to see whatever you are looking for if you are close. 10 degrees is a different story as that is half the beam angle. To me, it sounds like you are closer to 10+ degrees off than 1 degree off for steering. 1 Quote
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