Reel bearings?

[PBBrandon]

I have a 2017 Tatula SV that has been rough for the past year or so. I’ve taken it apart and relubed it a couple of times, even soaked the bearings in acetone and reoiled them. It’s still rough, especially under load. I’m suspecting a bearing is bad in it somewhere. It used to be one of my smoothest reels and I loved that thing. I might just go ahead and replace the bearings in it. Any recommendations for what bearings I should put in it? Thank you

[ConnorC]

I have heard good things about Boca bearings, they have multiple levels of bearings and a large list of bearings for a lot of makes and models. 

[ABU is overpriced]

You want to replace bearings, but you don't know if the issue is a bearing? You kinda have to test all the bearings before replacing them. My best guess is that its the gear set that went geary, Tats aren't exactly known to have long lasting gear sets that stay smooth and silent.

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

To identify a bad bearing, it must be complete cleaned, flushed and dry. Spin the bearing at low speed on a pencil point etc. It should spin smoothly and quietly, coming to rest gradually. Obviously, you can spin test an AR bearing, but don’t overlook it. People don’t always realize that the AR clutch spins constantly during retrieve. I don’t recommend replacing gears just to possibly eliminate subtle noise because due to the likelihood of repeated symptoms. That’s your call. If you find you need to replace a bearing, ABEC3 SS frame bearings and ABEC5 ss spool bearings from a reputable supplier like Boca is worth the couple extra bucks. You want LD (less be dry) spec on spool bearings. 

[newapti5]

10 hours ago, Delaware Valley Tackle said:

Obviously, you can spin test an AR bearing, but don’t overlook it.

 

How should I check the AR bearing besides sight inspection for rust? Thanks!

[FrnkNsteen]

Mike can confirm because has the expertise, but in my experience, look for marks on the outside of the AR sleeve that sits on the shaft.

 

I had a Tatula CT Type R that had an issue with the AR. In my case though I went to sit down in waves and missed the chair and came down hard on the deck with the reel in my hand. It hit hard enough the AR bearing rollers left indents in the sleeve.

 

You can find something to put inside the sleeve and then roll it in the AR rollers to feel for smoothness. Maybe a small screwdriver wrapped in paper towel. 

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

5 hours ago, newapti5 said:

 

How should I check the AR bearing besides sight inspection for rust? Thanks!

By sight and feel is the best tool can do. If you can’t get it out of the side plate I clean them by plugging one end with a finger and spraying with simple green, then swabbing. Flush with hot water, shake and blow dry and swab with acetone. Checking the feel as described by frnknsteen is a good step then check again during assembly. 

[redmeansdistortion]

Get some NMB bearings out of Japan via Yahoo Shopping, they're OEM for both Daiwa and Shimano.  NMB makes their bearings in Singapore and Thailand. They also supply over half of the precision bearings used around the world in industries such as dental tools, aircraft instrumentation, and precision machine tools.  They are the real deal.  NMBs run as little as $1 to $2 each when bought in lots of 10.  If you were to buy them domestically, expect to pay $5 to $7 each.  Lastly, don't pay attention the ABEC rating as this has nothing to do with internal clearances and doesn't account for raceway finish, retainer material, or ball grade.  ABEC grades were created as a basis for engineers to spec the fitment of a bearing to a shaft or housing. Too loose a fit can make the bearing not seat correctly, and too tight a fit can compress the bearing rings, removing the internal clearance of the balls, adding friction or even binding. ABEC was devised in the 1930s when machining to hundredths was considered precision. With CNC machining, many quality bearing manufacturers can do ABEC 5 tolerances without any effort at all.  

[J Francho]

I ran NMBs in my skateboards in the 80s, lol.  They were way better than NHBB (New Hampshire Ball Bearing) or the GMBs (German).  I haven't heard that name in decades - it's cool they are still around.  As for your reel, the advice to locate the bad bearing is good, plus the good bearings will perform in top shape, once cleaned.  I've played around with all sorts of fancy bearings, and whatever high grade SS bearings are being sold seem to work out to be the smoothest and most durable, if maintained.

[redmeansdistortion]

A little note on NMB that I discovered yesterday.  I know many here and elsewhere that speak of factory bearings being greased instead of oiled on a reel fresh out of the box.  What I found yesterday, after removing shields on a pair of DDL-1150Y04, grease!  This leads me to believe reel manufacturers just use the bearings as they come from the manufacturer and drop them right in.  The consistency seems to be either a NLGI 0 or 00. 

 

Anyway, after cleaning the bearings, I gave them a test spin unlubricated.  One was 31.1 seconds and the other was 30.7 seconds, not bad!  Seems rather consistent to me.  For the heck of it, I did the same to brand new Boca Lightning SMR115C-YZZ. When run dry, one bearing spun for 15.8 seconds, and the other for 11.7 seconds.  Not very consistent.  I then lubed all bearings with a drop of ISO 10 oil, NMB got 4.2 and 4.6 seconds respectively, while the Bocas got 2.9 and 4.4 seconds.  What I'm gathering from this is NMB is pretty spot on with their manufacturing consistency, and that oil is the great equalizer.  

[MN Fisher]

22 minutes ago, redmeansdistortion said:

I know many here and elsewhere that speak of factory bearings being greased instead of oiled on a reel fresh out of the box.

Another reason I tear apart new reels when I get them - the first is that I've received reels that either had way too much grease on the gears or none at all...ya, totally dry.