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Posted

Just bought an OT PDL 106.  Now I need to upfit it!  Obviously there will be things that I will want to try the boat out before deciding on.  But figured I would get your guy's thoughts and see what you would put on your boat first thing.  I did get the Boonedox wheel setup for it.   But I need everything...I am brand new to kayaking.  So jacket, paddle....  I know I have heard that there are some great aftermarket options...just would like to get your feedback!  Thank you all! 

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Posted

couple things.

 

1- the old town sportsman series kayaks are not rated for a boondox setup.  Don't use a boondox or a scupper setup cart with them.  Get something like the wilderness systems cart.

 

2- fish it before you start making any big decisions.  My setup probably won't work for you and yours probably won't work for capt frydog or bluebasser.  Where you put your fishfinder (and if you even need one!), where you store your rods, what type of tackle setup you need, etc, all depend on your style of fishing.  Sitting vs standing, offshore vs fishing the bank, the types of lakes you're fishing, etc.  

 

3- take it out with just a jacket and paddle the first trip.  Maybe one rod with a lure already tied on.  Get used to launching and loading.  Get comfortable getting around, holding your position, etc.  

 

 

Obviously a jacket and paddle are a must.  One thing that I've found very helpful is a front of seat organizer for pliers, clippers, scale, scissors, etc.  Whether you sit or stand they are organized and ready to use.  

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Posted
21 minutes ago, casts_by_fly said:

couple things.

 

1- the old town sportsman series kayaks are not rated for a boondox setup.  Don't use a boondox or a scupper setup cart with them.  Get something like the wilderness systems cart.

 

2- fish it before you start making any big decisions.  My setup probably won't work for you and yours probably won't work for capt frydog or bluebasser.  Where you put your fishfinder (and if you even need one!), where you store your rods, what type of tackle setup you need, etc, all depend on your style of fishing.  Sitting vs standing, offshore vs fishing the bank, the types of lakes you're fishing, etc.  

 

3- take it out with just a jacket and paddle the first trip.  Maybe one rod with a lure already tied on.  Get used to launching and loading.  Get comfortable getting around, holding your position, etc.  

 

 

Obviously a jacket and paddle are a must.  One thing that I've found very helpful is a front of seat organizer for pliers, clippers, scale, scissors, etc.  Whether you sit or stand they are organized and ready to use.  

Thanks! Well, the place I bought the kayak from said they have done quite a few boonedox setup with a ot sportsman and have never had a problem.  So I guess we will see...

Any brand jacket and paddle you recommend? 

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Posted

Maybe the 106 pdl is light enough. But I’ve seen too many pictures of bolts

that have pulled through even with backing plates. 
 

I'm not the best for a paddle reco since I use my motor all of the time. 
 

for a jacket I went inflatable from bass pro. I don’t wear it when the water is over 60 so I wanted something compact to store. And when I do wear it, it’s out of the way pretty well. Youll get a lot of recommendations for the chinook vest. If I wore a solid one that’s probably what it would be. 

Posted

Thank you! Do most of you wear a full pfd or the inflatable?  In NC, we either can wear an inflatable (has to be on at all times) or have a full pfd but can just be in/on the boat.  I already have an inflatable but went ahead and picked up a chinook nrs just to try out. Thanks 

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Posted

I agree that the best thing to do is to add to it slowly, and figure out what you need as the needs arise.  Otherwise, you'll add a bunch of stuff you don't use that will take up space and be in the way.  And depending on your budget, you might no longer have the money for the things you do actually need, but didn't think about at first. 

 

But yeah, a PFD and paddle are the two must haves.  I prefer a foam PFD for the cold months and an inflatable for the warm months.  Basically, because in the winter the foam padding helps to keep me warm and near freezing water can instantly shock your system so that you can't swim.  So I don't want to take the chance that my PFD won't inflate, if my body might go instantly go into shock.  But in the summer, an inflatable is nice, because it's hot, and I'm much more likely to be conscious and able to swim if I hit the warmer water.  You don't need one of each.  Especially if you don't get out in extreme temperatures. 

 

As for paddle, since you have a pedal kayak, I'd just get a cheap fiberglass one.  Something to push off rocks and docks with and use as a backup in case your pedal gets clogged or breaks on the water.  You probably won't use it much.  But don't get one with a metal handle, as they'll get crazy hot and crazy cold in the extreme temperatures. 

 

For everything else, you'll figure it out as you go.  It's not always just a matter of what you want or need, but also what you have room for.  At some point, you'll still have extra space to pack more stuff in, but you won't be able to maneuver around and access everything.  It does no good to add accessories that are such a hassle to access that you never use them. 

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Posted
On 7/17/2024 at 9:39 AM, clemsondds said:

Thank you! Do most of you wear a full pfd or the inflatable?  In NC, we either can wear an inflatable (has to be on at all times) or have a full pfd but can just be in/on the boat.  I already have an inflatable but went ahead and picked up a chinook nrs just to try out. Thanks 

I wear this Mustang Elite Inflatable PFD | Tackle Warehouse all the time on the bass boat.  It's comfy as heck and not overly hot to wear.  It only comes off when I'm adding or removing layers, then it goes right back on.  

 

I have a previous generation chinook I use in the kayak because pockets are really useful on the yak.  Also worn all the time.  If I'm going for a swim, it is far more likely I'm going for a swim unexpectedly.  A PFD in the yak and not on your back is not much use at that point. 

Posted

Thank you! Anything kayak wise that makes the kayak better or more resistant to problems?  For example, I've heard some getting a keel guard and also curious how I should store the kayak while not in use.  I have it inside a storage unit. Will prob use the kayak once a month or so. Thanks again

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Posted
6 minutes ago, clemsondds said:

Thank you! Anything kayak wise that makes the kayak better or more resistant to problems?  For example, I've heard some getting a keel guard and also curious how I should store the kayak while not in use.  I have it inside a storage unit. Will prob use the kayak once a month or so. Thanks again

 

I've not put a keelguard on mine.  I don't see the point.  It is going to get scratched and gouged with use.  You're not going to dent the keel like an aluminum or chip it like fiberglass.

 

For inside storage, I built a cart.  3' x 5' with 8' bunks on top and caster wheels on the bottom  The height aligns with the bed of my truck so I slide the boat on and off.  Lifting it up and down would be a killer every trip.

Posted

If you have expensive fish grippers, you'll want to put a small buoy tie on it, and maybe even consider putting some pool floats on your rods just in case...

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Posted
19 hours ago, clemsondds said:

Thank you! Anything kayak wise that makes the kayak better or more resistant to problems?  For example, I've heard some getting a keel guard and also curious how I should store the kayak while not in use.  I have it inside a storage unit. Will prob use the kayak once a month or so. Thanks again

I just use Gorilla tape as a keel guard.  Packing tape would probably work too.  I put it on about 2-3 layers thick so I don't have to replace it as often, and just at the front where it sees the most wear. 

 

It's not really necessary for everyone.  The bottom of a kayak will get scratched, and that's fine.  It won't ruin it.  And anything that puts a big gouge in the bottom, a keel guard probably won't protect against.  The only reason I use the Gorilla tape is because I drag my kayak around on concrete a lot, which I know I shouldn't do, but I'm lazy sometimes. 

 

Like I said, you really just have to get out there and experience it to find out what you need.  Like, for me, I fish in big waves and high winds often, and get swamped by wakeboats and such.  And I also fish in the winter when the water is near freezing, and don't like to get wet sometimes.  So I had an issue where water was always splashing up through my scupper holes and getting me soaked, just through normal use.  So I plugged them.  Then I'd run into a big wave that crashed over the bow of my kayak and flood the cockpit.  And with the scupper holes plugged, I couldn't drain the water out.  So I made some one-way valve scupper plugs that block the water from below, but allow the water to pass from above.  Most kayakers don't need one-way valve scupper plugs because most kayakers aren't out in bigger waves like I will be.  Or if they are, they won't mind getting wet.  Hence why you don't find too many for sale, and none that were commercially available came in the size I needed. 

 

I also made a fin that wraps around the arm that holds my sonar transducer.  Again, you won't find something like this for sale.  Because for most people they can either mount their transducer in a scupper hole or don't mind the turbulence if they use a side arm mount.  But my transducer is too big to fit in my scupper holes, so I had to mount it from an arm over the side.  And that arm created so much turbulence in the water, that it would splash water up on me, knock the transducer out of alignment, and pull my kayak off to the side when using my trolling motor.  Not to mention it slowed me down a lot, with all of that drag.  So I carved a fin out of wood, sealed it, and placed it over the arm to reduce the turbulence and solve all of those problems. 

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Posted

Something to pee in, I keep one of those plastic things they give you in the hospital in my boats but a Gator Aid or quart milk bottle with part of the top cut out works.  I don't like advertising to the world what I'm doing and don't like having pee being drip all over the side of my boat.  Plus, a wave at the wrong time can have you doing a balancing act standing on the side of the boat.

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Posted
58 minutes ago, Way2slow said:

Something to pee in

 

Depend Fit-Flex Adult Incontinence Underwear for Men, Disposable, Grey, XL, 68 Count (54204) | Quill

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Posted

If you’re fishing only once a month, stick with the basics as described above with the vest and paddle.

 

Next, get yourself a decent net. You’ll land more fish with a net than trying to boat them.

 

Once the kayak fishing bug hits you, you’re going to want to add a lot more including electronics. That’s where you’ll want to take a breath and plan.

 

It all starts with where you want to put your transducer. That impacts your cabling and battery placement and what type of transducer mount you will use.

 

Then you decide what type of sonar you want and how big a head unit. If you really enjoy kayak fishing, then buy the best system you can afford and plan ahead. If not, you may have a closet full of electronics.

 

I suggest that before you do any drilling that you run the wiring externally and try the head unit in different places until you figure out what works best.

 

I went from a 5” Lowrance DI SI to a 7” Humminbird DI SI to a 9” Garmin FFS DI SI. But I now run two units with the Garmin for sonar and the Humminbird for mapping.

Posted

Not to take over the thread but I just had a somewhat related question. For those who use a fishfinder with with yak attack switchblade/cellblok configuration, does it add a bunch of drag to the kayak when you're pedaling? When I get mine I don't mind drilling holes (thats what I did with my Topwater 120 paddle) but the ease of removal of the entire system is definitely a draw for me

Posted

I got the same kayak. This is my first season with it. I love the thing, so first off... good choice! I came from a really cheap paddle kayak. I had a anchor trolly. And a crate. And that was it.

 

When I got my OT I planned on using it before I decided to start adding things. Well, I never added anything. At least not major. I just really dig the kayak and don't need much. Let me break down my set up. 

 

-Cheap paddle. 

-Milk create with some rod holders screwed on. Cheap. 

-In the front little side pockets I keep pliers, a scale, and fish grips. All tethered with short and cheap "pig tail" style tethers. 

-i did get a spare prop, shear pin, and misc parts stored under the front hatch

-i added the rudder bolt deal from navare. Good cheap investment. 

-kydex keel guard

- wilderness systems style cart. Cheap knock off from Amazon

 

And that's really it. Never added the anchor trolly.... never felt the need with the pedal drive. Stock paddle holder works fine. The front facing rod holder is great for when you change lures or whatever. Never felt the need to add a rod holder although I have two sitting in my garage. I carry 3-4 rods. All in the crate rod holders, whatever one im using is in my hands or the stock rod holders over my left shoulder. I keep a collapsible net in one of the crate rod holders over my right shoulder. Pretty simple set up. Thinking about adding electronics, only because I discovered a new lake that's way deeper then I'm used to fishing. Think electronics would be useful there. Otherwise I wouldn't add a thing. 

 

A few little things i forgot to mention. I keep a little rope tied onto the front handle. Super helpful when it comes to getting in and out of the water. I wear a Chinook nrs and love it. I like having pockets so I'd pick it over an inflatable. 

 

My advice is to just fish. It's a nice kayak and it's not cheap. Don't go jumping the gun. I had such big plans. And turns out I ended up not doing any of it. I don't have a single complaint about the kayak or the set up. Go the cheap route first. Milk crate with pvc rod holders type of thing. When you have issues address them as they come up. If it's not a deal breaker issue, wait till end of the season and address all the issues at once so it can be planned better. 

 

It's a slippery slope. Just food for thought. The anchor trolly was a MUST have for me on the old paddle kayak. I anticipated adding one on the OT. I liked it on my left hand side. We'll that's where the OT stock paddle holder is. Which would of meant moving a after market paddle holder to the other side. But I am righty and land fish on the right. So now what?  Point being, adding one thing would of had a snowball effect of things to figure out. Luckily I did wait, used the kayak first. And realized I didn't need the trolly. Had I made all those changes, I am quite certain I would of hated it and wasted the time and money and just not enjoyed the kayak like I do now. Everyones got different wants/needs though so you got to figure it out for yourself. 

 

Best of luck to you and the new kayak

Posted

Tie or attach EVERYTHING to you or the boat, including your paddle. Comfortable life vest you will wear every time. It is better to have one item that does several things than multiple items that do one thing.  Splurge on a comfortable seat. I use a collapsing wading staff for a stake out pole. 

Anything that sticks up on the deck or side will likely tangle when a fish is on...the big one. Have a whistle and knife handy. If bigger boats are around have a flag for days and light for nights.

Remember, your goal for this trip is to make it back so that you can go on the next trip.

 

Simplify, streamline

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Posted
On 7/20/2024 at 12:08 PM, ThatFishingGuy said:

Not to take over the thread but I just had a somewhat related question. For those who use a fishfinder with with yak attack switchblade/cellblok configuration, does it add a bunch of drag to the kayak when you're pedaling? When I get mine I don't mind drilling holes (thats what I did with my Topwater 120 paddle) but the ease of removal of the entire system is definitely a draw for me

Yes.  Not like a crazy amount of drag.  But enough to know it's there.  You'll probably have to adjust the rudder a bit to compensate.  And it'll slow you down a hair.  But it won't make moving around unbearable or anything.  A very minor annoyance at best. 

 

Part of that can be alleviated by moving the arm to the right place.  On my kayak, when I'm up at (what I'm going to call) cruising speed, the wake coming off my bow breaks around a certain point in front of my seat.  Keeping my transducer arm right on or just behind that seems to help reduce some drag.  Or at least some turbulence on the top of the water. 

 

I also made a cover for my transducer arm.  I carved it out of pine wood.  It's shaped like a fin or airplane wing and has a channel for the transducer wire to run up.  I painted it and coated it in polyurethane to make it slick and keep water from rotting it.  It helps a lot.  With my trolling motor, it adds about 0.3mph at top speed when the arm is deployed and makes the kayak about as fast with the transducer in the water as it is when it's out.  That's probably overkill for most people though.  But I like doing that kind of stuff. 

Posted

Interesting thread, thanks for starting it. Lots of interesting and useful suggestions, thanks all for sharing.

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