What is the heaviest belly weighted swimbait hook you can use on a fluke without losing that action?

[Ohioguy25]

Do you find Zman’s chinlockz to be the best option? I’m currently running 1/8 but at $8 a 3 pack they ain’t cheap. They have a slightly cheaper option with a plastic keeper which I’m sure is fine but not as good. Mustad grip pins are ok but I prefer the baitfish colored hook Zman uses as I’m using this as an “ultra” finesse tactic on sluggish bottom hugging river smallies in these dog days.

 

Also saw in a search the “dangle berry rig” with a sliding weight to preserve the erratic flailing action, definitely a thought. What do you use?

[softwateronly]

I grabbed some of these so I can stay with the hooks I prefer.  Haven't used them yet though...

 

scott

 

https://thehookuptackle.com/products/ds-14-custom-sinker?variant=42751459164327

[OkobojiEagle]

very small nail weight

[Pat Brown]

Yeah nail weights will definitely make flukes and stick baits heavier and affect the action less - but weightless is the only way to have the action that it has.  (hope that makes sense).

 

I'd try lighter line and rod before I try heavier weight with a fluke.  Also always rig it so the hook eye is outside of the plastic or it will rise up a lot.  It will stay at depth much more efficiently with the hook eye exposed and it will weight and keel the bait to some degree.

 

If the issue is depth - probably I'd put it on a C- Rig.

 

That's the most efficient way to get a fluke deep fast and then pop it around weightless (sort of)

[VolFan]

I concur with the esteemed Mr Brown. If you want it within a few feet of the bottom in anything but 10 ft or less, it’s more efficient to fish it on a Carolina rig. This is one spot where I do rig it slightly nose up so that it pops up on the twitch.

 

But to answer the original question- probably 1/16 or 1/8 oz on the bigger sizes. Any weight really kills the smaller ones.

[Ohioguy25]

1 hour ago, VolFan said:

I concur with the esteemed Mr Brown. If you want it within a few feet of the bottom in anything but 10 ft or less, it’s more efficient to fish it on a Carolina rig. This is one spot where I do rig it slightly nose up so that it pops up on the twitch.

 

But to answer the original question- probably 1/16 or 1/8 oz on the bigger sizes. Any weight really kills the smaller ones.

Yeah I’m talking under 10’, like maybe 6-8’ generally. Still C Rig or is an 1/8 oz chinlock fine?

2 hours ago, Pat Brown said:

Yeah nail weights will definitely make flukes and stick baits heavier and affect the action less - but weightless is the only way to have the action that it has.  (hope that makes sense).

 

I'd try lighter line and rod before I try heavier weight with a fluke.  Also always rig it so the hook eye is outside of the plastic or it will rise up a lot.  It will stay at depth much more efficiently with the hook eye exposed and it will weight and keel the bait to some degree.

 

If the issue is depth - probably I'd put it on a C- Rig.

 

That's the most efficient way to get a fluke deep fast and then pop it around weightless (sort of)

I’m talking around 6-8’. 

3 hours ago, softwateronly said:

I grabbed some of these so I can stay with the hooks I prefer.  Haven't used them yet though...

 

scott

 

https://thehookuptackle.com/products/ds-14-custom-sinker?variant=42751459164327

Any advantage of a belly weighted hook over split shot pinched on? Seems the weight would be less evenly distributed.

[softwateronly]

7 minutes ago, Ohioguy25 said:

Any advantage of a belly weighted hook over split shot pinched on? Seems the weight would be less evenly distributed.

 

There are no solutions, only tradeoffs.  I like throwing 5-7" fluke style baits and a lot of them have varying densities and depth required for a proper hook gap exposure, like the difference between a spunk shad and super fluke magnum.  I love beast hooks for swimbaits but find they can over keel the erratic action of a fluke and I also prefer a lighter wire hook and a lighter setup.  Adding weights to various hooks I already like lets me dial in what I hope will work for that situation.

 

scott 

[PaulVE64]

4 hours ago, Ohioguy25 said:

Do you find Zman’s chinlockz to be the best option? I’m currently running 1/8 but at $8 a 3 pack they ain’t cheap. They have a slightly cheaper option with a plastic keeper which I’m sure is fine but not as good. Mustad grip pins are ok but I prefer the baitfish colored hook Zman uses as I’m using this as an “ultra” finesse tactic on sluggish bottom hugging river smallies in these dog days.

 

Also saw in a search the “dangle berry rig” with a sliding weight to preserve the erratic flailing action, definitely a thought. What do you use?

Watch something from this guys youtube

The Little Stuff

He makes a tight swimbait jig

 

[Pat Brown]

28 minutes ago, Ohioguy25 said:

Yeah I’m talking under 10’, like maybe 6-8’ generally. Still C Rig or is an 1/8 oz chinlock fine?

I’m talking around 6-8’. 

Any advantage of a belly weighted hook over split shot pinched on? Seems the weight would be less evenly distributed.

 

 

Try a finesse C rig -

 

10 lb big game - 1/8-3/8 oz sliding bullet weight - rubber bobber stop - lighter wire hook + fluke.

 

Slide the rubber stopper to your desired leader length.  

 

Works EXCELLENT in 0-10 feet of water for a weightless presentation that gets down faster.

 

Much less annoying to rig than a traditional c rig and better for finicky fish in shallow water.

[TOXIC]

Mitigating factor here is current.  I fish flukes (Yamamoto’s DShad) deep because they are heavier and have a faster fall rate.  I will put a small screw in nose weight if it’s windy or some current.  95% of the time I am weightless in up to 10-13 feet. 

[OHBuckets]

Yes sir - I fish the DShads weightless - they have great action.

 

Other than that, staying shallow and fast, I like the 1/16th twistlocks for jerk shadz/super flukes/etc.

[OkobojiEagle]

2 hours ago, softwateronly said:

 

 over keel the erratic action of a fluke and I also prefer a lighter wire hook and a lighter setup.  

 

scott 

The erratic action and shimmy on the fall (as Scott writes above) is the reason to throw this bait.  Inserted nail weights leaves the bait more unstable than a belly weighted hook and is a more preferred action.

 

oe

[Ohioguy25]

2 minutes ago, OkobojiEagle said:

The erratic action and shimmy on the fall (as Scott writes above) is the reason to throw this bait.  Inserted nail weights leaves the bait more unstable than a belly weighted hook and is a more preferred action.

 

oe

How exactly do nail weights work?

[Brian11719]

Depends on the bait for me. For example I like a caffeine shad with no weight since it has more salt in it and weighs more than a fluke. On the other hand I prefer throwing a fluke with a 1/8oz swimbait hook.

[JackstrawIII]

I've been fishing a fluke style being on a 1/8oz weighted swimbait hook. Very happy with the action and the fall rate. 

[PaulVE64]

I prefer a light wire hook but I throw with light drag so i tend to nose them.

[Big Swimbait]

I wish someone would start making the Dangleberry Rig hook again. I am down to my last two!

[MIbassyaker]

10 hours ago, Pat Brown said:

 

 

Try a finesse C rig -

 

10 lb big game - 1/8-3/8 oz sliding bullet weight - rubber bobber stop - lighter wire hook + fluke.

 

Slide the rubber stopper to your desired leader length.  

 

Works EXCELLENT in 0-10 feet of water for a weightless presentation that gets down faster.

 

Much less annoying to rig than a traditional c rig and better for finicky fish in shallow water.

 

This is how I would do it.  In fact, you have now inspired me to try it, Pat.  

 

I use 1/8oz barrel weights with exactly this setup for other finesse-y plastics a lot -- not sure why I never thought to try it with a fluke.  One rubber stopper above the hook, weight above the stopper.  A lot of people like to peg the weight completely, but letting it slide freely above the stopper allows the line to pull through the weight on the strike, which I feel helps a bit with detection.  My biggest problem with these rigs has always been a higher than usual rate of bass swallowing whatever chewy, delicious plastic thing I've got on there.

 

I haven't found a better hook for fluke-style baits than the 3/0 or 4/0 light wire owner twistlock.  I could use that hook with this rig. 

[RRocket]

3 hours ago, Big Swimbait said:

I wish someone would start making the Dangleberry Rig hook again. I am down to my last two!

 

You can make your own with the Decoy DS-12 Slide Weights. 

I

 

17 hours ago, Ohioguy25 said:

Do you find Zman’s chinlockz to be the best option? I’m currently running 1/8 but at $8 a 3 pack they ain’t cheap. They have a slightly cheaper option with a plastic keeper which I’m sure is fine but not as good. Mustad grip pins are ok but I prefer the baitfish colored hook Zman uses as I’m using this as an “ultra” finesse tactic on sluggish bottom hugging river smallies in these dog days.

 

Also saw in a search the “dangle berry rig” with a sliding weight to preserve the erratic flailing action, definitely a thought. What do you use?

I use the Texas EyeZ as much as I use swimbait hook. The free hook allows great action! 

 

It does fall nose first this way on a pause, but you could add in a Decoy DS-12 weight to tune.

 

 

[Catt]

I find a hook that is too long impedes the action more than weight does. 

 

Owner Weighted Twistlock CPS Hook

3/0, 4/0, 5/0

1/16, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4 oz

 

[Mike L]

Another effective way to use a nail weight in the back 

You can make the Fluke rise with each twitch by rigging with the hook eye below the nose. 
To make it dive rig with the hook eye above. 
 

 

Mike

[Munkin]

On 6/23/2024 at 9:44 PM, Big Swimbait said:

I wish someone would start making the Dangleberry Rig hook again. I am down to my last two!

 

Do you have any more pictures of this?

 

Allen

[Brian11719]

One other thing to point out here is I (personally) think the action is going to be different with any weight. In my case I prefer the 1/8 (or even 1/16) weight. The 1/16 gives the fluke a slow gliding fall action that I like and seems to imitate bluegill well. If I go up to a 1/8 I've noticed the action is similar to what I'd expect with a stupid tube. Weightless is also an option but Zoom Super Flukes are really light, so I personally don't like throwing them weightless. On the other hand the weightless hook doesn't bother me with a D shad or Caffeine Shad.

[Reel]

I never go heavier than 1/8 oz.

[A-Jay]

IMO, the lightest weight that still allows for a decent cast and reaches the desired depth,

the better.

Using a hook with sufficient gap or bite is pretty key as well.

When bigger bass want a smaller profile seems to present the biggest challenge for me.

But not one that can't be over come.

Falcon Lures Ewg Bait Jerker Hook works for me in this clip.

https://youtu.be/1to6ti-tlZY?feature=shared&t=135

A-Jay

https://www.southern-reel.com/falcon-lures-ewg-bait-jerker-hook/