Straight Braid users…

[bp_fowler]

I’m a recent convert to using straight braid on both my casting and spinning setups.   My reasoning for this is that the bodies of water near me that hold larger and more quality fish tend to be very weedy.  

I’m having issues with fish coming off.  Either before or after I’ve landed them.  Also a higher number of misses on the hook set than is normal for me.

 

I’m think my hook set maybe the issue.  My question is do you change up your hook set when using straight braid? Or is it somehow different than what you would do if you were using Mono/Fluoro or a leader?

[Deephaven]

I don't change...but could depend on the rest of your setup.  Something has to give somewhere.  If you are using a muskie rod with 50lb braid there really isn't give.  

[gim]

I’d back off on the drag a little.

[JackstrawIII]

When using braid, you have to remember that whatever you do with your rod is INSTANTLY transferred to the fish. There’s no lag in the system anywhere. 
 

This leads to 2 potential problems:

1. you can tend to set the hook prematurely 

2. you can tend to set the hook too hard, which can create an overly large hole if the hook lands in softer parts of the fish’s mouth 

 

I use braid almost exclusively. I solve problem 1 by consciously reeling down on the fish until I feel its weight before setting the hook. I solve problem number 2 by using a slightly lighter rod than I would if I was using mono or fluoro. 
 

I’m happy with the results. 

[PhishLI]

4 hours ago, bp_fowler said:

My question is do you change up your hook set when using straight braid?

Sort of. I fixed the issue you're having by never pointing my rod directly at my bait. I either hold it tip-up a bit, or at least on an angle to the line that's out. Once I feel a bite, and for only a split second, I drop the rod just a skosh to "give" the fish the bait a little, then I set. Give it a try. Works for me and I'm fishing mostly straight braid in super choked out places.

[Scott F]

It’s been so long since I’ve used anything except straight braid, I’ve forgotten what the transition from mono was like. Short, light hooks sets are all that’s needed, and like has already been said, I use mostly lighter action rods, and never lock down my drag.

[bp_fowler]

Thanks all! I’ll try out the above suggestions tonight and report back. Thanks again for the help.

[dodgeguy]

On 6/18/2024 at 7:09 PM, JackstrawIII said:

When using braid, you have to remember that whatever you do with your rod is INSTANTLY transferred to the fish. There’s no lag in the system anywhere. 
 

This leads to 2 potential problems:

1. you can tend to set the hook prematurely 

2. you can tend to set the hook too hard, which can create an overly large hole if the hook lands in softer parts of the fish’s mouth 

 

I use braid almost exclusively. I solve problem 1 by consciously reeling down on the fish until I feel its weight before setting the hook. I solve problem number 2 by using a slightly lighter rod than I would if I was using mono or fluoro. 
 

I’m happy with the results. 

Absolutely correct. Plus you don't need a massive hook set.

[bp_fowler]

I went out early this morning to give it another shot.  Unfortunately I managed to break off at the lure on my first two bites one with a chatterbait another with a Texas rigged worm.
 

As suggested I had my drag backed off and after I changed to a Palomar knot there were no further issues there.

 

I kept a little slack in the line and slowed my hook set down…way down. Much more slow and deliberate.

 

This seemed to do the trick and I managed a half dozen or so dinks with the worm before I called it and most importantly I did not have any come off. 
 

 

[JackstrawIII]

1 hour ago, bp_fowler said:

I went out early this morning to give it another shot.  Unfortunately I managed to break off at the lure on my first two bites one with a chatterbait another with a Texas rigged worm.
 

As suggested I had my drag backed off and after I changed to a Palomar knot there were no further issues there.

 

I kept a little slack in the line and slowed my hook set down…way down. Much more slow and deliberate.

 

This seemed to do the trick and I managed a half dozen or so dinks with the worm before I called it and most importantly I did not have any come off. 
 

 

 

It's a step in the right direction. Good work. 

[Bankc]

Yeah, it's a little different.  But give it time and you'll adjust.  I think the main thing for me was giving the fish time to swallow the bait first before setting the hook.  It might be due to the increased sensitivity, so small nibbles feel stronger with braid.  I usually wait until I can feel the weight of the fish, or the lack of weight of the lure, before setting the hook, versus feeling a tug or tap.  It's kind of hard to explain, but you'll get it down after a while.  I also horse the fish in more, as braid seems to allow them to throw the lure easier.  So if you can wench them in before they get a chance to really fight back, that helps with losing fish after you've hooked them. 

 

Also, sometimes it helps to have a softer rod with braid.  Either go down a half step in power or down a half step in speed can help when making the transition.  It allows the rod to flex a bit more to compensate for the lack of flex in the line. 

 

I now have to adjust when switching to mono since I haven't used it much in the last 2 years.  I have to remember to set the hook harder to accommodate the line stretch, especially on a long cast.  Really swing for the fences! 

[T-Billy]

Don't slack line 'em with braid. I swing hard, but i get just a bit of tension on the line first. Slack line hooksets with braid = lots of lost fish.

When fishing moving baits on braid, chatterbaits, spinnerbaits etc. a mod or mod fast rod is the way to roll IMO.

[bp_fowler]

2 hours ago, Bankc said:

Yeah, it's a little different.  But give it time and you'll adjust.  I think the main thing for me was giving the fish time to swallow the bait first before setting the hook.  It might be due to the increased sensitivity, so small nibbles feel stronger with braid.  I usually wait until I can feel the weight of the fish, or the lack of weight of the lure, before setting the hook, versus feeling a tug or tap.  It's kind of hard to explain, but you'll get it down after a while.  I also horse the fish in more, as braid seems to allow them to throw the lure easier.  So if you can wench them in before they get a chance to really fight back, that helps with losing fish after you've hooked them. 

 

Also, sometimes it helps to have a softer rod with braid.  Either go down a half step in power or down a half step in speed can help when making the transition.  It allows the rod to flex a bit more to compensate for the lack of flex in the line. 

 

I now have to adjust when switching to mono since I haven't used it much in the last 2 years.  I have to remember to set the hook harder to accommodate the line stretch, especially on a long cast.  Really swing for the fences! 

Yes, I definitely noticed a difference in sensitivity.  The first time I used it I can’t tell you how many times I set the hook because the sensation of running into weeds was so jarring it felt like a bite.

 

2 hours ago, T-Billy said:

Don't slack line 'em with braid. I swing hard, but i get just a bit of tension on the line first. Slack line hooksets with braid = lots of lost fish.

When fishing moving baits on braid, chatterbaits, spinnerbaits etc. a mod or mod fast rod is the way to roll IMO.

 

As for the rods…I have noticed that I’m having an easier time with my M/F spinning set up.  Most of my issues have been with the baitcaster (MH/F) especially moving baits.  I do think that rod has something to do with that but also I’m a bit more comfortable with drag adjustments on a spinning reel so there’s that.

[softwateronly]

@bp_fowler I've had straight braid slip at the knot before.  Double palomar and double SDJ solved that problem for me.

 

scott

[bp_fowler]

41 minutes ago, softwateronly said:

@bp_fowler I've had straight braid slip at the knot before.  Double palomar and double SDJ solved that problem for me.

 

scott

Yeah the Palomar worked well for me.  Also after doing some research I found the  uni knot ( which is what I normally use) wasn’t the best braid without some modifications.

[T-Billy]

19 hours ago, bp_fowler said:

Yeah the Palomar worked well for me.  Also after doing some research I found the  uni knot ( which is what I normally use) wasn’t the best braid without some modifications.

The palomar has always been a good knot for me with braid. The modified uni, also called the fishin fool, or fishin full is even stronger. I learned it when I started throwing the A- rig. Tying a palomar is a PITA with one of those.

 The modified uni was a bit of a pain to tie at first, but with a bit of practice it got easy and it's my go to knot for all my muskie baits. It's all about which finger does what, the size of the loop you make, and how you cinch it. If you cinch the tag end parallel to the main line the wraps will stack neatly. If you cinch the tag at an angle to the main line they want to jump each other and won't stack right. I like about a 2"-2.5" loop to wrap though. 

[Pogues2300]

No issues with a palomar knot but doing a double sure doesn’t hurt and it’s not like it adds difficulty.

[gim]

48 minutes ago, T-Billy said:

Tying a palomar is a PITA with one of those.

Aren’t you using a leader?

[T-Billy]

16 minutes ago, gimruis said:

Aren’t you using a leader?

Never have with the A-rig. The rigs I'm building have a 6" piece of .051 wire coming out the front. It's not needed to prevent bite offs with the rig. I added it to prevent tumbling on the cast. Works great. No more getting the line caught behind an arm on the cast.