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Posted

Hi all, 

 

What do you recommend buying if looking to throw lighter baits specifically 1/8 - 1/4 oz. Right now, I have a Shimano Stradic 3000 on a 7' M and struggle to throw weightless flukes, lighter jerkbaits, etc. I'm considering buying a Vanford 2500 and pairing it with a 7'1 ML rod as these types of baits get bit all year round. Mainly fishing for Spotted bass so finesse is more ideal, I'm also planning to use that for dropshots, nekos, and other finesse presentations. Any preferences with weights if fishing in 20-45ft of water? 

 

I've noticed some people prefer baitcaster over spinning setups for weightless flukes especially when skipping under docks. Planning to get a Shimano DC and 6'9 M rod for that but will be later down the road. Just curious if anyone has a personal experience where they would recommend one setup over the other or if it's just personal preference. 

 

Thanks! 

  • Super User
Posted

2500 with 7’ ml is what I use.  My 7’ m with my 3000 is for heavier stuff.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

^ What he said...though my M/F for shakey, jig-worms, etc also has a 2500 reel on it.

Posted

Sweet, thanks guys. Mind sharing the lures you typically throw on the 7M? 

 

  • Super User
Posted

Shakey Heads, Jig Worms, Free Rig, Split-Shot Rig, Weighted Soft Swimbaits, Underspins.

 

Rod is a St Croix Mojo Bass (pre-Trigon edition) 7'1" M/F with a Shimano Miravel 2500 loaded with 14# Spro 8X braid to 10# Seaguar InvizX leader.

Posted

An ML rod would be better for lighter baits but I am very surprised you cannot throw 1/4 oz with the outfit you have.  What kind of line are you using ?  What pound test ? Is the spool full ?  

Posted

Thanks MN, super helpful. 

 

Reel, I can throw 1/4oz a decent distance but prefer lighter for spots. Spool us full of 15# braid with 8# fluoro leader 

Posted

Highly recommend a Loomis 6"10" mag medium extra fast DSR.  Such an amazing light rod.  I have mine paired up with a Vanford 2500 and it is feather light and honestly one of the best rods I own to fish with.  Mine is the E6X series.  Same can be had in the NRX line, but I found little to no difference in the feel of the rod for the money spent on the NRX.  That rod is kind of a hidden gem that I do not see a lot of folks talk about.  But the action and feel is incredible.

Posted

MLs are great for lighter wire neko/SH and open hook finesse baits, but can really struggle with t rigged baits.  You can use lighter wire hooks and baits with less bulk, which helps, but IMO the right M power will do it better.  If you can get youre hands on on, check out the 7' M F 1/8-3/4 Tatula.  It fishes like a ML, but is little better suited to some of the more power finesse stuff like SHs and wacky rigs.  Flukes can be tough for lighter spinning gear.  I use heavier wire hooks on unweighted flukes to get the bait down and that makes things harder on a light rod.  If I were you, I would stay away from a DC for unweighted plastics.  It'll work, but an MGL or SV will do much better, especially for skipping.    

I'm curious, what M are you throwing now that is struggling with flukes?  

Posted
3 hours ago, GetFishorDieTryin said:

MLs are great for lighter wire neko/SH and open hook finesse baits, but can really struggle with t rigged baits.  You can use lighter wire hooks and baits with less bulk, which helps, but IMO the right M power will do it better.  If you can get youre hands on on, check out the 7' M F 1/8-3/4 Tatula.  It fishes like a ML, but is little better suited to some of the more power finesse stuff like SHs and wacky rigs.  Flukes can be tough for lighter spinning gear.  I use heavier wire hooks on unweighted flukes to get the bait down and that makes things harder on a light rod.  If I were you, I would stay away from a DC for unweighted plastics.  It'll work, but an MGL or SV will do much better, especially for skipping.    

I'm curious, what M are you throwing now that is struggling with flukes?  

Second this comment re: DC reels and unweighted plastics. Go with a reel that's more geared for lighter lures

Posted

Current setup is a Dobyn's Fury 7' M, multiple reviews state these are about halfway between M and MH. Usually throwing a zoom super fluke with a 2/0 wide gap. Ordered some dropshot hooks to test out the nose hook method and will be out tomorrow with a 7'1 ML, will have to report back. 

  • Super User
Posted
3 minutes ago, Big One said:

Current setup is a Dobyn's Fury 7' M, multiple reviews state these are about halfway between M and MH.

Dunno which reviews - line/lure ratings put it right at a Medium compared to other brands/lines. I have a FR703SF and in using it, it seems to be rated correctly.

  • Super User
Posted
18 hours ago, Big One said:

I've noticed some people prefer baitcaster over spinning setups for weightless flukes especially when skipping under docks. Planning to get a Shimano DC and 6'9 M rod for that but will be later down the road. Just curious if anyone has a personal experience where they would recommend one setup over the other or if it's just personal preference. 

 

I still use a spinning outfit for skipping plastics under docks.  I know some people think is out dated with modern DC bait casters, but I've done it a lot on one specific lake for the last 4 years and I've gotten to be very good at it.  I prefer a slightly shorter rod for it though.  Mine is a 6'6" MH with a 2500 sized spinning reel.  I should mention that this setup is almost exclusively used for skipping plastics around docks.  It has the back bone to pull fish out of there.  I am not targeting 8 pound Florida strain largemouth with it.  Most of the largies I catch under docks are in the 1.5 to 4 pound range.  My biggest largemouth last season was caught using this very method.  The key is to horse them out away from the dock/posts/lift as quickly as possible and then fight them them in more open water so they cannot wrap around, become unhooked, or break you off.

 

 

 

 

7-8-23 bass 2.jpg

  • Like 3
  • Super User
Posted
7 minutes ago, gimruis said:

I still use a spinning outfit for skipping plastics under docks...

I prefer a slightly shorter rod for it though.  Mine is a 6'6" MH with a 2500 sized spinning reel. 

I use a spinning rig for all my skipping - still haven't gotten the hang of skipping with a BC.

7' MH/F rod, 2500 reel, 20# braid lets me horse them out...I'm fishing pretty much the same type of waters as Gim.

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

The length of the rod for skipping is probably a personal thing.  It will depend on how tall you are, whether you are standing or sitting, and what type of watercraft you're in.  The angle for optimum skipping is the most important.  I have a friend who is shorter than I am who fishes with me a few times each season and he uses a 6 footer.

  • Like 2
Posted

For ultralight skipping (ie senko's and such) a MH 6'6" spinning rod is the weapon, for jigs and other heavier baits I use an 844 (I built to 7'2") with a Tatula BC'er.  Both are always tied up that way on my boat in case there is a need to skip.  Love fishing understuff.

  • Like 3
Posted
On 6/17/2024 at 6:56 PM, GetFishorDieTryin said:

MLs are great for lighter wire neko/SH and open hook finesse baits, but can really struggle with t rigged baits.  You can use lighter wire hooks and baits with less bulk, which helps, but IMO the right M power will do it better.  If you can get youre hands on on, check out the 7' M F 1/8-3/4 Tatula.  It fishes like a ML, but is little better suited to some of the more power finesse stuff like SHs and wacky rigs.  Flukes can be tough for lighter spinning gear.  I use heavier wire hooks on unweighted flukes to get the bait down and that makes things harder on a light rod.  If I were you, I would stay away from a DC for unweighted plastics.  It'll work, but an MGL or SV will do much better, especially for skipping.    

I'm curious, what M are you throwing now that is struggling with flukes?  


This is what I was going to say. The weight of the bait is less important to me than how much force I need to impart in order to set the hook. 
 

A normal ML rod works for Ned rigs not because they’re light, but because they (usually) have a light wire open hook that takes very little power to set. A fluke rigged on an EWG or swimbait hook takes more force and is better suited to a stout M or MH power rod. 

Posted

If I am skipping I want a stout hook that I can yank that fish sideways and out of the cover instantly.  Even a medium is too light.  I use salt water fly hooks a lot for those presentations as they allow you to pounf them and have a great hookup ratio.

Posted

My wacky rig/weightless fluke rig is a Daiwa 7' M/F Tatula XT rod with the Fuego LT 2500 reel wound up with 15# braid. Casts a mile and has great sensitivity.

  • Super User
Posted
On 6/17/2024 at 3:51 PM, Big One said:

Spool us full of 15# braid

Which braid? It matters. A lot.

  • Super User
Posted

The difference between a Stradic 3000 and Vanford 2500 regarding casting distance is marginal imo. IPT is faster with the 3000 and significantly heavier reel compared to Vanford.

7’ MF spinning rod should be able to cast 1/8 soft plastics without too much effort.

Tom

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