Motor issues - seeking suggestions

[Way2slow]

A release agent is something to keep the adhesive you are using from sticking to something you don't want to stick to and make it a permanent part of the repair.  For instance, you are glass bedding a rifle barrel and action into the stock.  You use Devcon as the bedding compound and press the barrel and action into it so if makes a perfect matting surface for the for them.  However, after the Devcon cures you normally want to be able to remove it.  Without some type of a good release agent, you will have just made the barreled action a permanent part of the stock, basically a one-piece rifle.

Johnson's Paste Wax has been my go-to agent for many years but I can't recommend that for you because, they quite making it in 2021.  So, unless you can find some old stock or happen to have some laying around, that's not an option.  There several options, even commercially made but since I've never used anything but Johnson's Paste Wax, I can't recommend one.

Anytime messing with epoxy resins or any of the bonding agents like them, it's always wise to apply a release agent you don't won't the adhesive to turn two parts into one.  When installing an insert, it just pays you to use a Q-tip to apply a release agent on the inner threads so any adhesive used that happens to get on the inner part can be remove easily.  The last thing you want to do is have to use a tap in you brand new insert to remove any stray resin that happen to get in there.  There is such a thing as putting too much, which most people seem to do with their first few attempts or not putting enough and having the insert turn loose.  Putting too much it gets pushed to the bottom of the hole and them back up into the inner threads.  When it does this, it's extremely hard to get it all out so it does not leave a film that binds the new bolt when you try to screw it in.  With a good release agent, it won't bond and "Normally" let you clean it out.

As for using JB Weld, I don't have much experience with it and have never used it for this kind of repair.  Devon and other specially products to do the job made for what I want is what I usually use.  Never got into using do-all products to make critical repairs.

[WaskaCrank12]

Update 06/10/24

Hello @Way2slow @WRB @Woody B

Thank you for the info and clarity on the "release agent" - I now understand what it is.

I have ordered a Time-Sert Kit (insert and tools for the 1/4-20 bolt) - a bit pricey with shipping - yet given the situation I am in it is clearly less expensive than a lower unit/new motor. 

I watched quite a few videos (specifically Project Farm - he did extensive testing of Time-Sert/EZ Loc/Helicoil/HHIP and several liquid threads) and the Time-Sert tested out as the top performer. Looking at the damage done to my insert area and the info. provided by @Way2slow led me to pulling the trigger on the Time-Sert. If the damage to the insert area had not been as extensive I would have gone with (the much less expensive) Helicoil or EZ-Loc.

I am still researching the Devcon vs. JB Weld-type adhesive (I am going to drive to a rural hardware store this week and see if they have some of the old Johnson's Paste Wax - they have a reputation for having long out of stock/no longer manufactured items).

Thank you again for the information and sharing your expertise. Once the Time-Sert arrives and I have an adhesive I will provide an update.

 

 

 

[Way2slow]

I guess I'm wrong, I see on ebay and a few other places you can find Johnson's Paste Wax.  One guy want's $250 for a new can of it that sold for about $20.  I see some with used/partial cans wanting as much as $100.    All are what I consider STUPID prices.  There are a number of products that work very well, I just have never used them so I can't say what.    

I still have three full cans I bought for $20 a can because they were going to discontinue it and one open can.  Since I rarely do any fiberglass work anymore, I have enough to last several lifetimes.  

[WaskaCrank12]

Update 06/15/24

@Way2slow @WRB @Woody B

Time-Sert kit arrived today - I had watched a number of videos (Time-Sert company videos and mechanics videos) - I practiced on some wood (no spare aluminum) - and dove in to it - following the instructions and tips from the videos.

It was tricky to make sure the drill was in the proper place and vertical/steady - the same with the counter bore and threader - yet I believe it went ok. I oiled the insert tool and insert and followed the directions. 

The only real hiccup is the insert is about a 1/8 turn too deep for the insert hole - so it is not 100% flush at the top of the insert area (it is probably 98% flush). My hope is that I can overcome that by adding a bit more sealant in that area when I put the gasket and metal plate and cover on (the cover is wider/larger than the insert area so it should cover that area and not be a major issue).

The insert is in tight and I have no fear that is will move or come out.

A small piece of aluminum - and I mean an extremely small piece  - no bigger than this letter "o" came away from the side of the insert area aluminum - so I will use some JB Weld "putty" on that (it is file-able so I will make sure it is sanded smooth (although due to the location I do not think it matters at all).

I took my time and followed things to the best of my ability (this is the first time I have ever done anything like this - basically way over my head from a knowledge/skill level). A learning experience for sure.

I thank each of you for all of your expertise and willingness to help me.

The job is not complete - and I am not sure if it will hold or work once under strain - so I will update you when I piece it back together (gasket/metal plate/cover).

Thank you !

 

[airshot]

Years back, when I built tooling for a fibergass casting company, they found " mirror glaze" paste wax to be the best release agent for production work

[WaskaCrank12]

Update - 06/18/24

@Way2slow @WRB @Woody B

I have allowed the epoxy (72 hours) and the putty (48 hours) to cure - the insert and insert area appear stable.

I re-watched several videos on replacing the water pump/auger/gasket/metal plate to refresh my mind and to make sure I was doing it appropriately. I borrowed a torque wrench from a friend to make sure I would not be over tightening the bolts. I put anti-seize on the bolts - which hopefully will avoid any bolt breakage in the future.

Everything has gone well to this point in the water pump replacement process -- now I just need to wait to have a friend come and help me put the lower unit back on to the motor (and I have a few other things to do - replace the lower unit fluid/ect...)-- and then hopefully this weekend I can fire up the motor and see if this repair holds and if it is the proper fix. If it works -- awesome -- if it does not work then I will seek out a used lower unit.

Thank you again for all of your help/support with this. I have learned many lessons in this process (most importantly is that if a bolt breaks off in aluminum it is best to bring it to a machinist to get it done right vs. trying to do it myself -- ie, stay in my lane and know my limitations). I have learned new skills, I have built more confidence/skill in using tools. I have also learned about epoxy/putty/sealants/aluminum/and a number boat engine issues/solutions.  

I will update you once I get the engine running (or not running).

[Way2slow]

You want to learn how to fix stuff.  Before you throw anything away, take it apart try to put it back together.  I don't know how many people buy a new something because they don't feel the know how to fix the bad one.  What the heck is it going to hurt if you try to fix it, might get lucky, and if you destroy it what's the worst thing that's going to happen, you have to buy the new one you were going to buy to start with.  One exception, if you have to have a rebuildable core to turn in, you might not want to do anything that is going to affect that.

 

When I was about 10, I couldn't resist taking mechanical/analog clocks apart.  No telling how many I destroyed but before too long, I got where I could put them back together again.  Might be surprised at just how much you learn.  One day you may run into something similar remember something from the one you destroyed that helps you fix it.  A lot of times people will ask me if I know how to fix something they are having a problem with, and I will tell them know, I don't "know how" but I'm pretty sure I can probably figure it out.  

When I was 12 or 13, I had my own used lawn mower and mower repair business.  In the spring I would comb the different neighbor hoods looking for the old lawn mower people would put out for the trash to get.  I would take them home, get what I could running and sell them for $5.  People started asking me to fix their mowers and I would sometimes make a dollar or two doing that. This was back in the late 50's early 60's when a coke was only 7 cents out of a machine and a gallon of gas was less the 30 cents, sometimes a low as 10 cents when they had a gas war between brands.

I have always been a firm believer in the term "can't never could" so I can't is not in my vocabulary.  

[GaryH]

@WaskaCrank12 here’s hoping it works out for you. You sure showed the initiative to learn and try something new. 👏👏👏

[Way2slow]

A couple of things I should have mentioned that I wasn't paying attention to.  You mentioned borrowing a torque wrench from a friend to tighten them, if you haven't tightened them already, a word of caution.  You said you put Anti seize on the bolts.  That makes them very slick, and you should back off the torque setting or it's possible to over torque them.  How much, it's hard for me to say, because having done the stuff all my life, I go by feel as much as anything, especially the one with the insert since you are not too sure about how well it's installed.  If in doubts about the installation, it would probably pay you not to use the anti-seize and use a drop of blue thread locker instead (Loctite 242) and not fully torque it.  If you have already put anti-seize on the bolt and decide to use Loctite, you will need to use Brake Cleaner of something to clean the hole and bolt with.  Loctite has to have a clean bare surface to work. it does not work on an oily surface.

If you have already torqued them and it's a done deal, then you should be good to go and don't need to worry about it.

When tightening them and they feel spongy and feel like they just want to keep on turning, and not giving you a good firm feel as they reach the torque number, don't keep on pulling on them, you will most likely pull the threads out of the aluminum housing, and you will get a chance to learn more about how to install inserts.

This is all stuff that's mostly gained by experience, so it's hard to explain but just trying to help you not have to learn the hard way right now.

[WaskaCrank12]

Hello @Way2slow

Thank you for the heads up and information on torquing the bolts.

I used the torque wrench yet I took your information in to account and did not push it -- the torque spec I was told to set was 73 foot pounds -- so I tightened the bolts,  in a star type pattern, and got the bolts tight yet I did not ever get the torque wrench to "click" -- the bolts are on tight and I didn't want to push it and break any of the bolts -- thank you very much for that information !

The lower unit is now back on the boat (I still need to put new lower unit oil in) -- now I need to put the carburetors back on (I took them off and a friend cleaned them and put the new carb kits on them) -- quite a few bolts to put the carbs and covers back on -- yet overall it should be pretty straight forward.

Any suggestions on putting the carbs back on is appreciated.

I have also changed out the fuel filter.

Thank you again for sharing your expertise with me !

[Way2slow]

Do you have some type of manual?  You must do a synchronization on them and the linkage.  If you don't have a manual let me know and I will see what I can come up with.  There's a lot more involved that just bolting them on.

When you mention using a torque wrench, it thought you were talking about the water pump bolts instead of the lower unit bolts.  The water pump was the ones I was talking about being so careful with.  

[WaskaCrank12]

Hello @Way2slow

Yes, I was talking about the water pump bolts -- and I followed your advice, which was right on, thank you !

I did purchase a SELOC - Johnson/Evinrude Outboards 1992-2001 Repair Manual.

I used the manual and followed the instructions to remove the carbs -- yet at this point I may bring the motor/carbs to a town near me where a retired marine mechanic has just recently opened a shop (he is renting out two garage bays, seems he is limiting his work to 2-strokes and installing electronics) and perhaps I will have him put the carbs back in so they can be properly synchronized.

Thank you for the continued info. and suggestions !

[WRB]

1/4-20 torque is measured in inch pound!

Simple technique is tighten until snug it slightly more then hand tight then 1/4 turn.

Repaired thread I would exceed 90 inch pounds and use Vibra-Tite or lock-Tite as noted by Kieth.

Sounds like you done an excellent repair👍

Tom

[Way2slow]

It's not hard to do and it's something you should learn.  There are a couple of alignment points you check first and then adjust the carb butterflies, so they are closed and start to open at precisely the same time at the point they are supposed to.  A little tedious because you may have to adjust the butterflies a few times but not hard.

Actually, I would not trust many average mechanics to do a proper sync on the carbs.  Too many tend to say that's close enough, and just being close can make a big difference in how it idles vs how good they will idle done perfectly.

One thing though, you absolutely cannot adjust the carbs idle mixture and speed running on a hose.  The motor has to be sitting in water at the depth it sits when just sitting still to have the proper back pressure on the exhaust If someone says they can it's time to find a better mechanic.

[WaskaCrank12]

Hello @Way2slow @WRB @Woody B

Update as of 07/24/24

-I had a few life events take place that I had to prioritize so the boat fixes got put on hold - yet the past few days I have been able to get back to it.

--I watched a number of videos/read the manual and have "linked and synched" the carbs -- I did it with the engine in the lake (I used the trolling motor to get about 100 yards from the dock so I didn't interfere with people loading/unloading) -- I don't think it is perfect YET, but I will continue to work on it -- what I found is that the roller pin on the upper carb arm is worn down and the cam roller (I believe that is what it is called) is also worn down -- so I have ordered those (thru MarineEngine.com) and will look to put them on when they arrive

--To this point it appears the water pump repair is working and the pump is doing it's job -- the engine pees water much better than it did prior to the fix -- but only time will tell how long it will keep working -- thank you again for all of your expertise in supporting me in making that repair !

---A new issue has come up -- and if you have any thoughts on it I am open to hearing them ---when I accelerate/throttle up -- the engine responds and I get up on plane -- and then the engine bogs out (almost as if the fuel has been shut off -- it does not sputter/surge/buck -- the engine just stops) -- oddly the VRO alarm goes off AFTER the engine has already bogged out/stopped

----I have done the following:

-new fuel line/bulb/connector (from the inboard tank/external nipple to the engine) -- new fuel filter -- I have checked the VRO tank (seems fine) -- checked the VRO bulb (rock hard) and the VRO connections (all seem good)

Thank you again for all of your time/expertise !

[Way2slow]

It's very common for that cam roller to be bad, and should be replaced before doing the sinc.  The synchronization has to be done on land.  That's to get all those alignment points match up and the butterfly's in the carbs balanced so they are fully closed and open at the same time.  If your carbs have idle mixture screws, those have to be adjusted in the water and the idle rpm has to be adjusted in the water.  That is adjusted by the timing, not the throttle linkage itself.

As for the surging, that's probably a fuel starvation problem and there are a number of things that can cause that.

Sounds like you are getting a good lesson on what I call shotgun trouble shooting, just keep throwing money and parts at a problem until you hope you finally find the cause.  That rarely works and only causes you more aggravation and money doing it.  Troubleshoot and narrow down the problem to the actual cause.   Sometimes there may be a couple of things that can have the same symptoms and the only way to isolate it, is by trying a known good part, which is very common with ignition problems like the ECM and the timer base can both have the same symptoms most people are not going to know how to troubleshoot the times base to see if it's that or the ECM. 

Next time you go, make sure to take someone with you to drive the boat when needed.  However, in your case, with a little proper troubleshooting, you should be able to isolate the cause.

You first test is going to be to check the primer bulb when it starts the surging.  Look at it and make sure it's not collapsing.  If it's collapsing, you have a fuel pickup problem at the tank, probably the anti-siphon valve. 

Then squeeze it and see if it gets firm with just a partial squeeze.  Keep pumping it slowly and see if it quits surging while you are pumping it.  If it cleans up and runs fine, then you have a fuel delivery problem.  If it's not getting a little firm while doing this, you may be sucking air at the bulb or tank.  If a fuel line or something is sucking air beyond the bulb it's going to leak fuel when you pump the bulb.   

A common cause for a fuel delivery problem is the fuel pump, and you mentioned yours is the VRO pump, so you are probably not going to like the cost of replacing that.  You can buy a non VRO pump and go back to mixing the gas yourself, that looks like and is a direct replacement for the VRO pump, but you are probably not going to like that either, and the way everything is coming out of China now, I don't think I would trust it being worth the time it takes to swap them out.  You will find diagrams on how you can jerry rig the cheaper stacked fuel pump to it, but I would not trust that.  

Dirty carbs can be another cause of the surging.  

For the fuel pump, my go to fix it is to install a Carter Vein pump.  Just make sure you use a relay to energize it because the key switch is not designed to handle the amp load of that pump.  That also does away with having to worry about pumping that dam primer bulb every time you put the boat in the water and a whole lot easier to start because you don't have to crank the engine over to make the primer system (choke) work.  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4594?seid=srese2&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Brands+|+C&utm_term=4582008552060744&utm_content=GSAPI+5ba11740c90ac  

Your system runs at six psi, and normally these pumps will work with no problems.  If the float levels in the carbs are set a little high, it is possible if the pump is over seven or eight psi, it can push to needles off the seats and flood it out.  If it does this, you may have to invest another $30 and install a regulator.  Since I have not messed with one for several years, they may have an adjustment to adjust the pressure between that advertised 5-9psi.  They used to come at 7.5psi or 15 psi.  

Don't not try one of those cheap vibrator pumps, they don't have the volume needed if you find one with the pressure.  You want a minimum of 30gph, or you might still end up with the surge.  If the volume is less than that, it may not be able to maintain the 6psi at WOT.

By the way, the anti-siphon valve, if it still has one, is the barb fitting coming out of the tank for the fuel line.  If it still has it, there's a check ball inside of that fitting that only lets fuel go one direction, toward the engine.  I've had a number of them cause problems over the years and I just drill/knock the ball and spring out (sometimes that's not possible) or replace it with just a straight fitting without the check ball in it.

[WaskaCrank12]

Hello @Way2slow @WRB

Thank you for the excellent information.

Yes, I have been guilty of the shotgun approach....

Next week I will have a chance to have someone come out on the boat with me so they can pump the bulb -- and I will also bring a remote tank with a few gallons of gas in it so we can try that as well to see if it makes any difference if the gas is coming from the built in tank or the remote tank.

I did look into a new VRO pump set-up ($700) and a similar "gas only" pump ($693). Pricey.

I will look into Carter Vein pump -- thank you for the link.

I did not know about the anti-syphon valve - so I will take a look at that as well.

It makes sense that it could be the anti-syphon value/ball getting stuck/malfunctioning -- because I can accelerate, start to get up on plane and then the engine bogs out (maybe I am using the wrong term, the engine just stops, it does not sputter or surge or buck) it just stops, as if the gas supply has been cut off -- I timed this multiple times and it is happening between 10 and 12 seconds of acceleration, consistently in that window of time.

Ok -- I am going to take one step at a time.

Thank you !

 

[Way2slow]

One suggestion, it might pay you to buy a cheap pressure gauge that can easily read in the 5 to 10 psi range and a couple of fittings so you can tee it into the fuel system somewhere after the fuel pump.  This is one time it might pay to check Harbor Freights junk.  They used to sell vacuum/pressure gauge for a few bucks (not the fuel injection test kit) that will be good enough to do this, since it's not something you will use regularly and don't have to depend on being very accurate.  

You need to make sure you're not chasing you tail in circles and it not be a fuel problem.  Like I said, I believe in trouble shooting a problem and not guessing, guessing gets expensive when screwing with these things.  

If it is the fuel pump, there are a couple of checks you need to make before saying the pump itself is bad.  I have seen the pulse valve cause problems and that's only a few buck's vs several hundred.

[WaskaCrank12]

Hello @Way2slow

-Thank you for the information and advice -- I will go to Harbor Freight and purchase the vacuum/pressure gauge and give it a try -- yes, excellent advice to take the trouble shooting one step at a time vs. guessing (which I have been doing) -- parts for a 1992 engine can be harder to find and expensive. 

I will update once I purchase the gauge and check things -- yes, I have read that the pulse valve can go bad (and it seems might push too much oil into the system ?).

Thank you ! 

[Way2slow]

OEM parts might be getting harder to find, but I would think aftermarket parts are still fairly common for most of the more common parts.  

[WaskaCrank12]

Hello @Way2slow @WRB

Update - 08/9/24

My journey with the motor has continued - yet I took your advice and looked at the symptoms (collapsing primer bulb was not happening - took someone on the boat with me to pump the bulb to see if it would help - ect...) - and in the end I narrowed it down to the VRO pump (I have only had the boat a short period of time so I don't know the history of the engine/VRO pump yet at 32 years old all indications were that the pump was failing) - getting the parts was not as straight forward as I thought it would be (given your thoughts on it I sought out and bought a Johnson/Evinrude fuel pump and as many Johnson/Evinrude parts as I could -- more expensive than aftermarket yet it is too important to skimp on) -- I bought all new fuel lines -- the most difficult piece to source was the manifold (the VRO manifold is oriented differently than what is needed for the fuel pump) as it seems that specific manifold was discontinued years ago, yet I was able to source one from a salvage yard -- I also purchased new throttle/carb rollers as those were worn/broken ----- and with the help of many YouTube videos/the Johnson/Evinrude manual and may favorite music motivating me -- I took out the VRO, replaced it with the new fuel pump, all new fuel lines, new rollers, new fuel filter, filled the tank with gas (so I know it has 20 gallons in it) and added the appropriate amount of oil and I am sure I am missing some things -- it was many hours, I made mistakes/had to re-do things, I learned a ton, I built confidence and the motor is now up and running -- I had it on the water only about 15 minutes yesterday (winds were 25 mph plus) -- and it started/idled/accelerated -- this afternoon I will look to give it more of a run on the water (yet I will have my batteries charged and trolling motor ready if needed) ----- thank you again for providing me with information/sharing your knowledge and expertise !

[Way2slow]

I guess it's a little late for this post, you have a lot of time and money invested but I have to say this.  I sure hope you did a compression/leak down test on that motor before you started down the road you have been on.  It sure would be sickening to learn you have put all the work and money into a motor that's used up.  If not, you might want to do one just to see.  If I remember right, that was still when they were running 85 to 90 psi with a good, charged battery and spinning at over 250 rpm.  Low compression is going to kill hole shot. 

That's not a problem if it will let you take all the spark plugs out to do it but a lot of times the starter won't let you do that. The Bendix kicks out when it hits the cylinder with the compression gauge in it.  If it does that, you have to do it one plug at the time.   You also need to do this on a warmed-up engine.  Let it run on a hose for at least five to ten minutes, then do the compression test.  A cold engine will lie to you big time.

I prefer the leak down test but if doing a compression test, I usually let it hit on each cylinder six times.  The main indicator is that all cylinders are within 5% of each other, and no more than 10%.  For an accurate test, you want the same number of pulses on each cylinder, I've found six to be a good number.

I don't see you doing the leak down because the gauge is expensive, you need 100psi air pressure and it's a little harder to do, but if you have to try that, you still don't want more than that same 5% to 10% max.

A DIY rebuild on a four cylinder is probably somewhere between $800 and $1,000 at today's prices for gaskets, seals, pistons and rings, and boring and having the block and heads resurfaced.  Most of the time, bearings are reusable, other than the lower crank main.   This is also something I would not recommend unless you are very familiar with the internal working of that engine.  Getting the rod caps back on perfectly is an art without a special tool that holds them in alignment.

So, I suspect a DIY rebuild is beyond your abilities and having it done or buying another power head leaves a lot of room to get shafted.

A couple of weeks ago, a good friend of mine had a good friend of his call me about a V-6 Looper lower unit, and to help him out I sold him an extra one I had (cheap).  When the guy picked it up, he was telling me his mechanic that was very good with these things had rebuilt his with new gears and all, and when he picked it up, he noticed he could shake the prop shaft around in it.  The guy tells him it would be fine, that was normal.  The next day, he goes out and all the gear oil had leaked out in the driveway, so he was hesitant to use it.  I'm thinking, and this is a mechanic he thinks really knows a lot about them.  RRiiiigghht!  I told him to try and shake this one around, if he could, I would give it to him, naturally he couldn't get any movement out of it.

 

 

[WaskaCrank12]

Hello @Way2slow

Thank you for the info. and expertise - yes, I had a friend guide me though doing a compression test - and the numbers for the 4 cylinders were all within 5% to 8% of each other (we did have to do it one at a time) - I took the boat out yesterday and it went pretty well - some puffs of smoke at start up but then it settled in - it started much easier than it had prior to the work done on it (the previous owner had said it was "cold blooded and sometimes hard to start"), I think replacing the throttle/carb rollers helped it start easier as I did not have to crank the throttle forward nearly as far as I had prior to  replacing the rollers - I went out relatively slowly at first and stayed somewhat close to the ramp as I didn't want to be too far away if the engine didn't work well (it was again a pretty windy day at 20mph) - ran it for 15 minutes at medium throttle, turned it off, started again and repeated that cycle a few times - I checked the hoses (did not see any leaks) and wires - it seemed good so I then got it up on plane and took it on a longer run - there was a very slight hesitation at about 3500rpm, yet it was very slight, and then it ran well - It was the first time out and I certainly will check everything again and keep and eye on things when I take it out again tomorrow - Thank you again for all of your time/knowledge/expertise ----- Yes, your friend needs to listen to you ! 

[Way2slow]

That much slow running, idling and fuel problems you were having, it may be getting a little carbon fouling.  I suspect if you pull the plugs out and look at them, they are probably heavily carboned.  I would suggest you do what's called a plug dump.  You do that by running it at wide open throttle (WOT) for a few miles or about five minutes and then on the way back to the ramp cut the switch off at WOT.  You want to avoid letting it idle.  That's about the only way you can actually tell how the engine is running.  Black plugs after a plug dump show things are not good.   

Now with that said, be careful doing that.  It drops the bow of the boat hard into the water and may want to try doing a hard right turn.  Make a couple of tests, first at about half throttle, quickly snatch it too neutral.  If it does ok there, do it at 3/4 throttle, and if ok there, do that at full throttle.  That will give you an idea of how the boat is going to respond, and if it tries to turn hard, you can quickly give it gas to stop it.  You can't do that if you kill the engine.  If it does not like you doing that, instead of killing the engine, get off plane as quick as you can safely and then cut it off, so it has minimal time to idle. Then before you run the engine again, pull the plugs and see what color they are.  If the fuel/air mixture is right and everything is good, the plugs should be somewhat of a paper bag brown to light brown if it was not let idle.   It only takes a short period of idling for a two stroke to blacken the plugs

 

By the way, if someone that has a fairly fast boat that gets up on its pad with good bow lift and flies the hull at WOT, DO NOT TRY ANY OF THIS WITH THE MOTOR TRIMMED OUT, trim the motor down first so the hull is fully plowing the water, and still be very careful or you might get introduced to what is called a bat turn.