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  • Super User
Posted

Submerged beaver structures are one of the top bass attractants I have   found. I know a few that are almost always productive for multiple fish . There are two problems with them . I might get a Texas rig through it the first few cast, might not but I will always eventually get caught up in it no matter how finnessee I try to sneak a worm through.  Second problem is if I wait too long to set the hook , the bass has already wrapped me up . I have to be quick to get the bass out. These tangled messes go from the bank out to almost ten foot depth. How do you go about fishing them?

  • Super User
Posted

like any other big brushpile.  Start way back off of it.  Like you said, they go out a lot further than you think and the bass are often off the end.  When you get up into it, 20 lb plus non braided line and just start reeling when you set the hook.

  • Like 4
Posted

It’s a balance between a heavy enough jig or t-rig to get it to depth but not so heavy as to sink it in the brush. I go as light as is functional and still lose baits. Once you have spawning catfish combined with beaver houses it’s just not worth it. I actually tend to try to fish them with spinnerbaits wherever possible.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

I throw a wacky rigged Senko about 15 to 20 feet from where the hut hits the water. Keep your concentration at 100% and as soon as you fee a tick or your line moves, set the hook and hope for the best. Also be on the lookout for snakes.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

I've been pondering this. Next trip I'll use a smaller weight and a paddle tail Dinger. I'm going to let it hit bottom  on the initial drop then pop it up and try to retrieve it over the sticks.

  • Global Moderator
Posted

Reaction Innovations Sweet Beaver would be my go to! 
 

Sorry, I couldn’t resist. 😁

  • Haha 4
  • BassResource.com Administrator
Posted

As previously mentioned, start way out away from them and work your way in.  I start with running a spinnerbait or frog around it to get those aggressive bites first.  Then follow up with a Senko (T-rigged), which usually won't fall through the branches.

 

I might pitch a T-rigged Rage Bug around the edges, but rarely through the branches for the reasons you mentioned.

  • Thanks 1
  • Global Moderator
Posted

I ain't scared, I fish down in them. 20lb Tatsu, 1/4oz weight, or a homemade 1/2oz flipping jig. Start way out on the edges, even further than you think you should because fish will roam the edges and those are often aggressive fish you can pick off without disturbing the ones that are tucked up in the middle of the brush. Don't let the bait soak and be ready when they bite. Not a time to "let them eat it", if you're a believer in that. Beaver dams are one of my favorite types of cover to fish. I believe they have at least one fish on them 100% of the time when I get a chance to fish them, and they usually produce at least one for me.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

The last beaver house I saw was built right next to the access and they were leaving all kinds of debris and branches in the way.  I called the park dept mgr and a week later they brought in heavy equipment to remove it.  Goodbye beaver house.

 

Beaver Damn It GIF by chuber channel

  • Super User
Posted
15 hours ago, Glenn said:

I might pitch a T-rigged Rage Bug around the edges, but rarely through the branches for the reasons you mentioned.

I almost always have on standby, a Rage Bug on a Twistlock Light hook behind a 1/16 oz tungsten worm weight....or weightless even at times....almost impossible to get hung 

  • Like 2
Posted

I can tell you how not to fish it...and thats in a light sit in kayak with only a paddle and not anchored. I think I was stuck more than the fish at the end of that 😂.

 

Seriously though like @Choporoz I go very light if fishing plastics to near weightless and start far out and work in. They don't tend to get deep down into the bad parts of the mess but still wind up where it needs to be. Never exposed hook, and contrary to what some may say I go light gauge hook so its easier to bend out if I do (rarely) get hung up. I'd rather recover a bent hook and throw it out than leave something behind if I can help it. 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Like others have said, start on the outside edge and work in.  If your in a boat and feeling adventurous, you can get up close and take a look at it.  Then leave and come back in a hour or two, after things have settled down.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

We have many here and they are definitely bass attractors.

Spinnerbait 1st and wacky finesse worms on 1/16 head with weed guard on the outer edges.

I don't let my bait penetrate the center of all that art work.

  • Thanks 1
  • Super User
Posted

Snelled flippin rig, 50# braid. As others have mentioned, start at the outside and work into the thick of it.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

This little lake I've been fishing has two newer dens and two older ones   . These are the best cover on the lake. If I dont get wedged , multiple bass are caught. I always start on the outside where there are no limbs then start inching inwards. I need to lighten up with the weight and be faster on the hooksets. I'm going to try things different next visit. Usually   a 5 inch  Dinger with a 5/16th oz weight is used.  Appreciate  the replies fellows. 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

I fished the Beaver dens yesterday with a new plan . Using a 3/16th oz weight and a Yum Dinger  , I worked from the outside in . I let the bait fall until I thought it was far enough then work it out on top of the limbs instead of down through them . Caught multiple bass on both houses and only got wedged once. Before leaving I went ahead and let the bait fall through the limbs and was able to get it through .

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