Rigging new Boat

[bishoptf]

Not sure if this is the right place but thought I would follow up my searching for a new boat with how I am going to rig my new boat. I tend to try to get my best bang for buck and while looking at new boats getting one rig the way that I wanted was going to very expensive. I knew that in order to try to save some $$ I would need to find a basic model that I could get a deal on and then rig and upgrade it myself and so that is what I am doing. I was able to find a 2023 z19 with the basic features I was looking for and they kept increasing the clearance pricing and discounts that I finally pulled the trigger. Building the boat and ordering how I wanted it rigged would have been approximately 72K (lithium batteries and Mega360 not included in the attach build). Now there are some options out there that would have been cheaper like the z19 pro if I wanted to go with Lowrance or say a Skeeter ZXR19 with Birds but I wanted for whatever reason to go with Garmin units. Initial build will not have livescope but I will be able to add on which I plan to do this fall so here is the baseline build out of a nitro with what I wanted (see attached). Not exactly one for one since I am going with Lithiums for trolling batteries and their lithium option includes starting and trolling batteries. I am staying with AGM for starter and lithium for tm batteries. Again this is bang for you buck kind of build and always trade offs just documenting what I researched and what I am doing.

 

Here is what I wanted in my build, Humminbird Mega 360, 10" Helix Bow graph for m360, Garmin 106/126 Bow graph (still haven't decided leaning towards 126), Console Garmin 106/126, Garmin Force TM (lots of good choices just decided to go with what I am using for graphs), Lithium TM batteries, 100ah hour batteries w/ bluetooth, no heaters 24v setup, Trollbridge 12x24 ( e.g., charge on the run, main like where boat is on lift has not shore power) brackets for graphs etc...

 

Things that are on my list but not sure if I will do now or later this summer, Trailer upgrades (dexter suspension replacement, Bunk replacements with gatorbak, ramp and clamp), remote drain plug, livescope.

 

Here is how I am saving me some $$..

 

Rigging it myself, the major cons will take me longer, not able to fish out of it until I'm done. Pro's will save some $$ in labor costs close to 1k, I priced it out locally, I will know how I have things laid out and give me a chance to really go through the boat plus I like doing things like this, I don't mind pulling and terminating wire and can do it properly. Another plus get to purchase more tools  The other way I saved some money was utilizing the Humminbird rebates when they were available, for the Helix 10 and Mega 360 that saved $900 and when purchasing the boat bass pro had $1500 gift card that I can use for one of my garmin units.

 

Here is my over all plan, install the trollbridge and associated wiring in the back of the boat, install the thru hull garmin gt8 transducer, install and wire the gt-36 transom transducer to the console. Run 8awg from one of my trolling motor batteries to fuse panel around console (haven't decided where to mount yet). Run 12awg from fuse panel to Bow of boat each for Helix, M360 and Garmin units. Using existing TM wiring, remove existing Minn Kota TM and replace with Garmin force. Install graphs at bow and console and install M360 unit to force.

 

 

Welp thats the rough plan, already started taking things apart and working on mounting the Garmin TM. I have a spreadsheet that I keep track of everything and the costs and once I decide which way I am going to go with the graphs will be able to get a total but its going to be waaay below that build price. If anyone wants any details on any particular area and why I chose one thing vs the other let me know, I do a lot of research so I can at least explain my thinking etc..spent a lot of time reading about lithium batteries, kind of makes me want to do some solar project next

 

[Functional]

Thats going to be a nice setup. I love my Force TM. Only have it rigged for 24v but its a really powerful motor. If you use spot lock be sure to play with the sensitivity settings. I needed to play with mine a bit before I found what I was willing to accept for drift and not have the motor constantly spazzing out. 

 

I didnt see it mentioned but put a resettable breaker as close to the batteries feed as possible. That will protect everything if a wire ever makes contact and your electronics. It's also nice to trip open and know none of your equipment is pulling a parasitic load while stored AND if the charger does something weird your equipment is disconnected from your batteries. 

[bishoptf]

7 minutes ago, Functional said:

Thats going to be a nice setup. I love my Force TM. Only have it rigged for 24v but its a really powerful motor. If you use spot lock be sure to play with the sensitivity settings. I needed to play with mine a bit before I found what I was willing to accept for drift and not have the motor constantly spazzing out. 

 

I didnt see it mentioned but put a resettable breaker as close to the batteries feed as possible. That will protect everything if a wire ever makes contact and your electronics. It's also nice to trip open and know none of your equipment is pulling a parasitic load while stored AND if the charger does something weird your equipment is disconnected from your batteries. 

Yup I probably should list my spreadsheet that I am keeping track and call everything out but I will have a blue seas 40a breaker for the fuse block and it will be mounted in the batter compartment.

 

With work during the day I haven't had much time to work on things, I have it pretty torn up and I have the force mounted, Garmin really did a nice job of how things go together. I could only re-use 2 of my previous mounting holes, I should have been able to use all 4 but the Force has a side piece that hits on the nitro and pushes the mount over so I filled the other holes with epoxy putty and drilled 4 more holes. Under the nitro plate there is ample room to mount terminal posts for the trolling motor and terminal block for the graphs and m360 power. Still trying to settle on where to mount my fuse panel, I think I want to do it in the starboard locker but they have this big ole push light in there taking up a bunch of room, its where I think I would mount my livescope black box but still contemplating that. Working on transducers in the back right now, going with a garmin gt8 thru hull and then gt36 with a jackplate mount adapter. Still need to figure out where I am going to take the transducer cable through the splashwell and I guess use a clamshell for the entry. So still trying to figure out layout, I tend to be slow about things and over think them but thats where I am currently. I need to figure out mounts for my Bow and purchase the graphs, still waiting for my Basspro gift card for one of them. Taking half days off tomorrow and friday along with the long weekend I should make good progress.

 

Pics of some of the stuff I talked about..

 

 

[Functional]

@bishoptf I thought you had all the graphs. Not sure which you need but HB is offering some really good rebates right now. Check tacklewarehouse for the "sales" and "rebate" ones. Was tempted myself to pickup a 360 pole and or a head unit for it. 

[bishoptf]

11 minutes ago, Functional said:

@bishoptf I thought you had all the graphs. Not sure which you need but HB is offering some really good rebates right now. Check tacklewarehouse for the "sales" and "rebate" ones. Was tempted myself to pickup a 360 pole and or a head unit for it. 

I have the Hbird Helix 10 and M360 unit, since they were running rebates back in april that ended April 30. But looks like they started additional rebates and now they are instant so no waiting, hbird must really be feeling the pressure from garmin since they have had rebates almost non stop since March. I do not have my garmin graphs, mainly since I am waiting for the basspro gift card. Figured I need to wire and get it all done and mounting the graphs would be the last bit to do, at least that is what I am thinking. Still trying to decide can I live with a 10" at the bow vs 12" etc...

 

If you do decide to go with a m360 and have a force TM let me know and I can tell you which mount I went with, there are lots of options and most are $$$...lol.

[DaubsNU1]

You have a great set up there @bishoptf! I set up my previous boat with Garmin, and really looked hard at the Force TM with my new boat.

 

In the end I opted to go with Humminbird and Minn Kota...and got pretty much exactly the same set up as my brother. We fish with each other so often, felt it was better that we mirrored set ups.

 

I really enjoyed setting up my previous boat...I like learning new things, running wires, figuring out best bang-for-buck, etc. My boat was purchased used from Lund dealer...I haggled and worked out a deal on price, and got them to sell me all the electronics / TM / add on stuff at cost, with the agreement they would set up the boat for me. I'm sure they made plenty of $$ from the sale and overall deal.

 

One thing my dealer strongly recommended, was the mounts for graphs. I was leaning towards RAM mounts, same as my Brother. They recommended Cisco Fishing System's Sure-Lock mounts. They are great! Give them a look.

 

Keep us posted on progress. Exciting times for sure!!!

[bishoptf]

10 minutes ago, DaubsNU1 said:

You have a great set up there @bishoptf! I set up my previous boat with Garmin, and really looked hard at the Force TM with my new boat.

 

In the end I opted to go with Humminbird and Minn Kota...and got pretty much exactly the same set up as my brother. We fish with each other so often, felt it was better that we mirrored set ups.

 

I really enjoyed setting up my previous boat...I like learning new things, running wires, figuring out best bang-for-buck, etc. My boat was purchased used from Lund dealer...I haggled and worked out a deal on price, and got them to sell me all the electronics / TM / add on stuff at cost, with the agreement they would set up the boat for me. I'm sure they made plenty of $$ from the sale and overall deal.

 

One thing my dealer strongly recommended, was the mounts for graphs. I was leaning towards RAM mounts, same as my Brother. They recommended Cisco Fishing System's Sure-Lock mounts. They are great! Give them a look.

 

Keep us posted on progress. Exciting times for sure!!!

Thanks, I think I did look at them in the past, still trying to figure out how to keep it as compact mount wise with the 2 graphs at the bow. The one that I liked the best is a Str8up dual riser mount but I guess I waited to long and he is out of them now, lol. I like his mounts and they are more reasonable priced vs a lot of the ones out there - https://www.str8upmounts.com/ just going to do the wiring and get everything I can done and then figure out what mounts to go with.

 

[bishoptf]

Needed some zip tie mounts for my transducer cable running up the jackplate so I 3d printed some out, nothing fancy but I think with a dab of silicone on the back (I recessed the back) I think it will hold good enough, guess we will see, lol.

 

 

[bishoptf]

Completed most of the boat upgrades last week, comedy of errors with Basspro and gift card that was holding me up.  Took it out for its maiden voyage monday, mainly to break in the mercury engine and just ensure everything was working. Only glitch that I have is with the Garmin graph in hull transducer losing depth at speed, made some tweaks but its not perfect and disappointing since I went with the 2d in hull to avoid this. Have come across other threads where folks have had similar issues, maybe the NVT hull on the nitro or something but the transducer is mounted right in front of the lowrance one and per specs. It's kind of odd since doesnt happen at the same speed etc, just need to play with it some more and figure out if there is a setting that will take care of the issue. Other rigging issues were that my garmin footpedal was bad out of the box, when paired with the TM made it shutter and spin back and forth. Garmin support was good about troubleshooting and figuring out the issue but it delayed me getting the boat out on the lake. Seems to work as it should now, will have to use it some more to see what I like and dislike about it. 

 

Here is what I have done:

replaced tm batteries with 100ah Powerusrus bluetooth lithium batteries

installed 12x24 lithium trollbridge (charge on the run and more)

Installed all new wiring to a blue seas fuse panel mounted in the starboard locker, 8awg to fuse panel then 12awg for each device on the bow (Helix 10, mega360, Garmin echomap ultra2 10", garmin foot pedal, console Garmin echomap ultra2 10") goes through a blue seas 40a breaker, tied to first lithium battery that also used for trolling via trollbridge)

Replaced stock Minn Kota Maxxum TM with Garmin Force

Humminbird Mega 360

Bow mounts for Garmin and Bird 10" units ( Baldwin Metal works mount with aluminum L bracket DIY)

Replaced Lowrance 5" console graph with 10" garmin echomap ultra2 unit ( aluminum sheet, Basspro shops lockdown mount, 3d printed clam shell)

Flow rite remote drain plug

RMP transom saver

Garmin gt36 jackplate transducer mount plate (so I didnt have to drill into boat)

3d Printed d-rings for wiring in back of boat

 

Boat seems to ride and handle well, took it to lake of the ozarks and while it was a monday there was still traffic and it did fine, sure a bigger boat would be better but she should do fine for what I want and where I want to go. I still have some trailer upgrades to do and will be working on those as time allows in the next few weeks (replacing the stock shackles, replacing the bunks with gatorbak and adding a ramp and clamp).

 

I have pictures for most stuff, not the best at showing before and after but before posting all of them will post some and if anyone wants some more details on any area let me know. 

 

Bottom line by purchasing a previous year stock boat that was clearance price (basspro gift card, humminbird rebates) and doing all the rigging work myself I believe I was able to save substantial from purchasing one rigged the way that I wanted, around 14k. I priced new ones rigged how I wanted the boat and nitro was 14k and the others were even higher savings. Now that is rigged how I wanted it rigged, there are lower cost options if you wanted to go with bird or lowrance graphs but an apples to apples comparison I saved at least that much. Anyone want pricing details hit me up PM. 

[gim]

Nice work.  You have a lot more knowledge and will power than I do when it comes to rigging.

 

I like that graph mount on the console.

[bishoptf]

1 minute ago, gimruis said:

Nice work.  You have a lot more knowledge and will power than I do when it comes to rigging.

 

I like that graph mount on the console.

There are a lot of nice mounts out there but they are also $$$, makes things go faster but lots of ways of doing things. Like my bow mount was 1/4" aluminum angle, one of the mount sites has the same thing painted for $90, $20 from amazon then add paint which I already had black paint. The console graph was $40 from Bass pro and the aluminum sheet was $20 again from amazon. Again others sell that stuff but its in the hundreds range, mine cost me $60 total. 

 

The one mount place that I would have gone with and I think has reasonable priced mounts is called str8up mounts - https://www.str8upmounts.com/ and a local guy making somestuff baldwin iron works - https://www.baldwinironworks.com/ great small shops that respond quickly and affordable products.

[gim]

Just now, bishoptf said:

The console graph was $40 from Bass pro and the aluminum sheet was $20 again from amazon.

 

That's actually a lot more reasonable than I would have expected.  My graph is flush mounted so its fine for now but a mount like that would be an option should I decide to put in a larger one.  Flush mounted versions make it much harder to steal, but they are also more difficult for me to install and remove every spring and fall because I have to go underneath the console amongst all kinds of cords with a head lamp.

[bishoptf]

6 minutes ago, gimruis said:

 

That's actually a lot more reasonable than I would have expected.  My graph is flush mounted so its fine for now but a mount like that would be an option should I decide to put in a larger one.  Flush mounted versions make it much harder to steal, but they are also more difficult for me to install and remove every spring and fall because I have to go underneath the console amongst all kinds of cords with a head lamp.

Yeah what I do not like about flush mounts besides the big ole hole is that most of the time it puts it at a anlge and depending on the boat can be partially obscured by the steering wheel. I like that this raises it up and allows you to angle it, really is so much better. The nice thing about the garmin graphs is they are quick release, press the locking mechanism and it lifts off. Takes 5 secs and then I can take them with me or lock them up etc...

[gim]

On 6/13/2024 at 10:30 AM, bishoptf said:

replacing the bunks with gatorbak

I’ve considered doing this with my bunks. If/when you decide to do this, some more photos and details would be appreciated.

[bishoptf]

On 6/14/2024 at 7:45 PM, gimruis said:

I’ve considered doing this with my bunks. If/when you decide to do this, some more photos and details would be appreciated.

Will try to do a follow up when I do it, I know @A-Jay has ultimate bunks and they may still be an option but leaning towards the gatorbak's. Only negative I have seen is that if you drive on gravel/dusty roads can collect stuff in the grooves but thats not a issue for me. I just know the bunks that are on it now will not last long and I'd rather do it now before I forget and then regret it one day when one decides to go south...lol.

[A-Jay]

1 minute ago, bishoptf said:

Will try to do a follow up when I do it, I know @A-Jay has ultimate bunks and they may still be an option but leaning towards the gatorbak's. Only negative I have seen is that if you drive on gravel/dusty roads can collect stuff in the grooves but thats not a issue for me. I just know the bunks that are on it now will not last long and I'd rather do it now before I forget and then regret it one day when one decides to go south...lol.

The gathering of debris on trailer bunks when the boat is elsewhere, regardless of the type, is something that plagues every trailer.  I figured out that a quick wipe down with something like 303 Protectant before I load my rig each time, cleans off the grit and grime, helps with UW ray protection while keeping the boat coming and going on & off the trailer very easily.

Might work with Gator bunks too although I am just guessing.

A-Jay

[gim]

11 minutes ago, bishoptf said:

Only negative I have seen is that if you drive on gravel/dusty roads can collect stuff in the grooves but thats not a issue for me.

That would not be an issue for me either.  My bunks are actually in good shape.  I don't need to replace the actual bunk boards.  I'm just looking for an alternative to the bunk carpet, as that seems to wear out and rip every so often.

[bishoptf]

17 minutes ago, gimruis said:

That would not be an issue for me either.  My bunks are actually in good shape.  I don't need to replace the actual bunk boards.  I'm just looking for an alternative to the bunk carpet, as that seems to wear out and rip every so often.

The boards they appear to use these days is not pressure treated and just looks like a normal 2x4 material, pine would be my guess. At least for me they will just not last that long so I will replace the boards with cedar or something equivalent and paint and seal them then gatorbak over that. I just tend to want to do it and forget about it, from what I have read if you do that you should be good for some time.

[MN Fisher]

4 minutes ago, bishoptf said:

The boards they appear to use these days is not pressure treated and just looks like a normal 2x4 material, pine would be my guess.

That's okay long as you do what I did when rebuilding the trailer for Bass Trek. Untreated 2x4, 2 coats of oil-based Varathane before tacking on the carpet and installing the brackets.

[gim]

My bunk boards are pressure treated.  I've inspected them when I ripped some bunk carpet and replaced it.  My boat is from 2015 though.  I don't know what they're using on new trailers nowadays.

[bishoptf]

32 minutes ago, gimruis said:

My bunk boards are pressure treated.  I've inspected them when I ripped some bunk carpet and replaced it.  My boat is from 2015 though.  I don't know what they're using on new trailers nowadays.

Understand, I peaked at several and none of the ones that I looked at had pressure treated wood. I think the EPA or something changed since at least the ones I looked at from White River Marine (Nitro, Triton, Ranger) all had normal wood. Not sure about the other manufactures though but I thought I cam across a posting about epa not allowing them to use it any longer. 

[bishoptf]

*minor rant/

 

Upgraded/replaced the existing equalizer/shackles with a Dexter EZ-flex. Wasn't the most fun since its been dang near 100 and even in my garage it's like an oven. I honestly do not understand why companies do not have a better baseline of quality, I would have gladly paid $500 more on the boat price to have this already done. For dual axle trailers plastic bushings and non greaseable shackle bolts (not sure thats a word, but you get it) are not going to last long so why not just put something better from the start, kit cost me $330 but again why not just do it and include it in the price, I just don't get it. It's not just nitro, when I started looking its all kind of boat trailers, RV trailers etc that all do the same thing. The other thing is the vortex hubs come with a plastic cap and I've read lots of folks having issues with the cap cracking etc,. Tracker makes an aluminum cap that you can get for $8 from the parts department but again why isn't it that way from the factory, a whopping $32 to use aluminum caps vs plastic. /*rant over...:)

 

It's done now and I can keep things greased and should last a lot longer. Only other trailer upgrades are a ramp and clamp or something like that and replace the bunks.

[WRB]

Where you buy your boat matters. Nearly every dealer rigs the boats they sell differently they are not equal. 
Tom