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Posted

Quite a few years ago, I wound up in the BP Clearance section and got a 7'6 UL Bass Pro Fiberglass rod for like $8. Fished it occasionally and had a terrible time trying to set the hook on anything- even with an exposed hook jig for crappie and bluegill. I hate having stuff lying around so am trying to put it into the rotation. I just remember how frustrated I got the last few times fishing with it. 

 

FWIW, I usually use M or MH rods although I have a nice small UL rod that has way more backbone than the noodle rod. I usually stick with soft plastics but am thinking that the noodle rod may be better with small hard baits. Maybe it'll be easier to set the hook? Gimme some advice, friends...:thumbsup_blue:

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Posted

Advice?  Go trout fishing with it.

 

if you insist on using it for bass, you’re talking #6 hooks and smaller.  The sharper the better. And braid to leader will help 

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Posted

Other than cutting it in half and using it as nice, durable (and flexible) stakes for tomato plants or similar, back in the 60s and 70s, there was a very popular live bait technique used for a variety of species (including bass) called "Nightcrawler Secrets." The primary rods used were 7'-8' fiberglass fly rod blanks converted to spinning rods and used to fly line crawlers on lightweight split shot rigs. It would probably be a perfect rod for that :thumbsup:

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Posted

^^ Trout rod - small stream trout preferably, like brookies.

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Posted

The right type of hooks really helps as already pointed out. Go light wire and some type of circle or near circle hook light bait holder, ds, or octopus hooks. For the latter two, the fish practically set the hook on themselves. The typical bass cross their eyes hookset isn’t needed and if you do that, you’ll feel like you didn’t set the hook at all. The lighter wire hook ensures the hook set and that whipiness and just about bent over beyond parabolic bend is what will keep the fish hooked. A properly set drag is also key. Let the rod and reel work for you, the idea of dragging them in and flipping them into the boat ain’t going to happen without the potential for bad things to happening greatly increasing.  We have people on my neck of the woods who battle 20lb salmon on 4# line so if there is trouble to be had against crappie, bluegill, or a 2.5 lb bass, culprits would fall of the angler and the technique. Once you do get it, it’s a freaking blast. My UL 7’ Okuma celilo is responsible for catching most of my bass caught than adding up the catches on all my other “bass” rods combined. It doesn’t discriminate between lmb and smbs either 😇
 

With that said, all bets are off if you’re fishing in heavy cover, lol. 😂

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Posted

@Team9nine most people who come from fly rods would use XF bass rods for tomato stakes.   Hookset - fish the rod low, pointed down the line, and simply lift the rod.  

3YSzNN2.jpg

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Posted

Thanks all for the replies. No trout within 4 hours of driving for me, so if I want to use it I'll definitely take all the advice given above. 

 

1 hour ago, bulldog1935 said:

 fish the rod low, pointed down the line, and simply lift the rod.  

 

 

 Thanks for the reminder. Before I put it up, it seemed like this was the key to get any hooksets. In fact, I think all I did was give it a short swipe away from the retrieve for my most successful sets. 

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Posted

You can use it with a float.  The float creates an hinge effect that helps a lot when setting the hook.

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Posted
51 minutes ago, QUAKEnSHAKE said:

Use braid for sure and tiny jig hook 1/124 or 1/80 and 1" gulp alive minnow

Another option is a 'Trout Magnet' kit - great for panfish as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Trout-Magnet-Original-152-Piece-Kit/dp/B000ZKZD5M?ref_=ast_sto_dp

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Posted
On 5/20/2024 at 7:57 AM, OmegaDPW said:

 Thanks for the reminder. Before I put it up, it seemed like this was the key to get any hooksets. In fact, I think all I did was give it a short swipe away from the retrieve for my most successful sets. 

The way you look at this hookset, from fishing with the rod low and pointing down the line.  

First off, you're moving the line very quickly when you lift the long rod.  The hookset is in the powerful rod butt and reel drag set.  Once you get the rod tip tall, the soft tip protects UL leader.  

When you need power for turning fish, you lower the rod again - in 1881, Doc Henshall called this "Give Him the Butt"

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Posted

Roadrunners. Might miss a few gills with a slow action. Bass and crappie inhale them since they're so small and hook themselves. I have an Old 18 composite Authentic UUL that bounces around as I'm walking to the bank with it. But that noodle action protects the tiny hooks and line. Similar with a ML TFO spinning rod I had. I got it but did not like the action for bottom contact, but its awesome with heavier roadrunners. 

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Posted

Small swimbaits with a Okashira screw head....Real sleigh ride when you catch big ones...

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Posted

I use an old 7' UL MF Fenwick for winter float and flies when all the still water freezes.  Its ridiculously soft, which can be frustrating, but it makes it fun.  Braid and the lightest wire hook you can get will help out.

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Posted

Thanks again everyone. So, what's the actual purpose of rods like these? Were they made to target specific fish like trout? Was fiberglass the best material around at the time? Is the "whipiness" supposed to help with casting? Basically, what's the history of a noodle rod? 

Posted
10 minutes ago, OmegaDPW said:

Thanks again everyone. So, what's the actual purpose of rods like these? Were they made to target specific fish like trout? Was fiberglass the best material around at the time? Is the "whipiness" supposed to help with casting? Basically, what's the history of a noodle rod? 

Where I am in Michigan, noodle rods were popular for salmon and steelhead back in the 70s and 80s.  The Dick Swan noodle was an 11'6" slow action rod rated for 2-6lb mono.  Guys used them to swing spoons and spinners for large lake run steelhead and coho salmon on light line.  Most guys used 4lb mono.  They've found a new crowd among carp fishermen, who use light line for a stealthy approach to a highly intelligent fish.  They're very effective rods and will make quick work on bass assuming one is using sharp hooks.  The Dick Swan rods were designed to pin hard fighting fish on light line.  They can be used for bass, but like the rod, the rest of your approach will be unconventional as well.  I'd use a 1000 size spinning reel with #1.0 braided line and a leader of 2 to 4lb.  Set your drag for one pound and have at it.  I bet you'll have a lot more fun than the guys that skip them across the water to the boat.

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Posted

Crappie fishing using Turner Jones micro jigs.

Too long for stream trout rod  unless you plan wade. 
The rod was in the discount basket for a reason!

Tom

Posted

Here's Dick's obituary, he's a legend here in Michigan.  https://web.archive.org/web/20210729220352/https://www.ourmidland.com/sports/article/Clare-s-Dick-Swan-was-a-giant-in-the-fishing-world-6918433.php

 

Browning actually sold a line of his rods, but the pre-Browning stuff he made on Lamiglas blanks that were made for him by Gary Loomis, prior to him going solo.  Those Lamiglas blanks that Dick used are very highly sought after.  I've seen them sell on my local sportsman forum for upwards of $200.

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Posted
1 hour ago, redmeansdistortion said:

Here's Dick's obituary, he's a legend here in Michigan.  https://web.archive.org/web/20210729220352/https://www.ourmidland.com/sports/article/Clare-s-Dick-Swan-was-a-giant-in-the-fishing-world-6918433.php

 

Browning actually sold a line of his rods, but the pre-Browning stuff he made on Lamiglas blanks that were made for him by Gary Loomis, prior to him going solo.  Those Lamiglas blanks that Dick used are very highly sought after.  I've seen them sell on my local sportsman forum for upwards of $200.


 

I used to fish steelhead in PA/OH a lot for a number of years that coincided with my building rods. I lived in Cleveland for a year and fished 250+ days that year, mostly for steelhead (and entirely for steelhead from September to may). While I didn’t build any sick swan blanks, I built quite a few lamiglas which I’m sure were inspired or related. They had a 10’6” on a high modulus graphite similar to a imx at the time which was fantastic. 2-8 lb test and 1/32-1/4 if I remember right. Perfect for the mid sized streams in that area. It makes for a great trout rod on bigger trout water (because steelhead are trout after all). 

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Posted
42 minutes ago, casts_by_fly said:


 

I used to fish steelhead in PA/OH a lot for a number of years that coincided with my building rods. I lived in Cleveland for a year and fished 250+ days that year, mostly for steelhead (and entirely for steelhead from September to may). While I didn’t build any sick swan blanks, I built quite a few lamiglas which I’m sure were inspired or related. They had a 10’6” on a high modulus graphite similar to a imx at the time which was fantastic. 2-8 lb test and 1/32-1/4 if I remember right. Perfect for the mid sized streams in that area. It makes for a great trout rod on bigger trout water (because steelhead are trout after all). 

If I remember right, Dick's blanks were IM7.  A few guys I fish with still use them religiously.  

Posted
13 hours ago, OmegaDPW said:

Thanks again everyone. So, what's the actual purpose of rods like these? Were they made to target specific fish like trout? Was fiberglass the best material around at the time? Is the "whipiness" supposed to help with casting? Basically, what's the history of a noodle rod? 

 

I have an UL that is very whippy and I purchased it exclusively to fish the real ultralight stuff like micro spoons and trout magnets without a float. Its a blast catching trout and panfish and I've even caught some decent bass on it. 

 

The whippiness does help with casting, but I believe its more beneficial in protecting the light line you are fishing with.

 

Your problem could also be that you're afraid to load the rod properly. I know when I first fished my UL, something about bending it all the way to the butt section felt wrong and I was afraid I would snap it. Once I got over that fear all was good. 

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Posted
40 minutes ago, garroyo130 said:

Your problem could also be that you're afraid to load the rod properly. I know when I first fished my UL, something about bending it all the way to the butt section felt wrong and I was afraid I would snap it. Once I got over that fear all was good. 

 

When I was still early fishing for steelhead I was fishing with a guy from another forum.  He was throwing the 10'6" St Croix noodle rod which is a 2-6 lb rod and MAYBE rated for 1/16 oz.  I always thought that rod too light for steehead until I watch him with it that evening.  He said "point the butt at the fish" and he wasn't kidding.  10-12 lb steelhead one after the other came in on 4 lb line like that.  Fresh fish too, just out of the lake and angry.  That was a learning experience.

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Posted
2 hours ago, casts_by_fly said:

 

When I was still early fishing for steelhead I was fishing with a guy from another forum.  He was throwing the 10'6" St Croix noodle rod which is a 2-6 lb rod and MAYBE rated for 1/16 oz.  I always thought that rod too light for steehead until I watch him with it that evening.  He said "point the butt at the fish" and he wasn't kidding.  10-12 lb steelhead one after the other came in on 4 lb line like that.  Fresh fish too, just out of the lake and angry.  That was a learning experience.

This is exactly how to fish them on BFS tackle.  I have some Japanese steelhead rods that are meant to be used with thread line and a BFS reel.  Pointing the butt at the fish gets them every time.  I have three rods; a Smith 6'5" 3-12g, another Smith 7'4" 5-16g, and a Palms 6'9" 3-10g.  I'm usually fishing no more than a #1.5/6lb leader and will sometimes run as low as 3lb depending on water clarity.  

 

I couldn't begin to tell you how many guys I've had question my tactics on the water.  As you know, the norm for steelies and salmon is something 8'6" and up, and they see me with these comparably short rods hitting targets next to undercut banks and root wads.  Swinging a shorter rod on an overgrown stream is much easier than trying not to whack a tree with a 8'6"-11'6"+.  A lot of the time I'm casting to spots that would require the long rod crowd to use a far different approach.

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