Bazoo Posted May 4, 2024 Posted May 4, 2024 The title says it. What types of inserts, if any, will not stand up to braided line? I have an older Zebco casting rod, with a baitcasting reel on it, that I like for some situations. I'd love to run braid on it but I suspect that the guide inserts wouldn't hold up. I like the rod because it's fiberglass, the tip is very soft, and I can cast light lures in tight spots. Quote
MediumMouthBass Posted May 4, 2024 Posted May 4, 2024 In my experience its the rods with no guide inserts that get destroyed by braid. Like some Ugly Stiks, ive had it happen with light ned rig fishing using 10lb braid. Do you know what the rods components are? 3 Quote
DaubsNU1 Posted May 4, 2024 Posted May 4, 2024 Most of my rods are Cabela's branded from the early 1990's. They have handled braid just fine for 30+ years. Send it! Quote
Super User MN Fisher Posted May 4, 2024 Super User Posted May 4, 2024 Like MMB said - plain stainless steel guides are probably the worst when it comes to holding up to braid. Ceramic inserts should be the minimum. 2 Quote
fin Posted May 4, 2024 Posted May 4, 2024 I used braid on stainless guides for years. It eventually wears faint grooves on the tip guide, but it takes a very long time - hundreds of hours of use. It can get to a point where it wears into a single groove in the middle that the line can bind in. I became more concerned about the guide harming the braid. Do an image search for something like “groove guide tip braid rod” and you can see some pictures. Quote
Super User Scott F Posted May 4, 2024 Super User Posted May 4, 2024 Pretty much any rod made this century, except possibly the cheapest ones, should be just fine. 1 Quote
Bazoo Posted May 4, 2024 Author Posted May 4, 2024 Thanks all. The rod in question was made this century but it is a very cheap one. It has what appears to be ceramic inserts. I haven't a clue what the specs are on it. It was given to me by an old man at church and I'd guess it to be from the late 80s judging by the Zebco 33 that was on it. It casts good in tight spaces however. 3 Quote
K1500 Posted May 5, 2024 Posted May 5, 2024 If it’s ‘very cheap’ then I wouldn’t worry about it. I mean, if you wear a groove in the guides in 3 or 4 years you’ve probably used the rod enough that it’s worth upgrading to something better. Are you going to use a closed face push button reel on it? I would more concerned about how that handles the braid than the rod. 1 Quote
Bazoo Posted May 6, 2024 Author Posted May 6, 2024 No, I use a baitcaster on it. I like the way it feels, it is fiberglass, has a very soft tip, 5'6" length, and is excellent to cast in tight spots. I want a better quality rod that has the same features as this one. 1 Quote
Super User bulldog1935 Posted May 6, 2024 Super User Posted May 6, 2024 @Bazoo I will always remain a glass fan. Fishing close, exceptional skip-casting, big-fish tough. Also fish well below their rated low-end. you could always rebuild your favorite glass rod with new guides made for braid. Since I'm here, there's always "Japan Underground" - Bright River Rivermaster grip has small enough offset for a low-profile reel, and glass is king in rod blades made to match (nice IM6 blades also). 1 1 Quote
Bazoo Posted May 8, 2024 Author Posted May 8, 2024 Thanks @Bulldog1935 . That is a classy looking rod for sure. 1 Quote
Bazoo Posted May 20, 2024 Author Posted May 20, 2024 Well, I've since been on the search for fiberglass rods that are suitable to me, and I can't find anything. The above brightriver is confusing... I take it they aren't sold ready to go? I can't find them, only rods without seats. And the $400 price is a deal breaker. I want a 6' with straight cork grip, medium power. I'm thinking I might end up having a custom rod built... I wonder how much that'd cost? I ain't picky... but I also want it to fall within certain parameters. 1 Quote
fin Posted May 20, 2024 Posted May 20, 2024 Buying rods is the hardest decision in fishing purchases for me by far. Having a small budget makes it harder. I remember when I first got back into fishing, I thought I knew what I was looking for in a rod, but when I was forced to try something different, I learned there were much better options out there that totally changed my fishing. What you are used to and comfortable with is not always what's best. My suggestion is to actually try what is available in your price range. There are places that will allow you to exchange a rod if you're not happy with it within 30 days or whatever. You might have to pay a little more at a local mom & pop shop, but having that exchange option is priceless. You can't damage it or get it dirty. Leave the plastic wrapper on the cork. You might find the casting distance of a 7' irresistible, or you might find that a 6' in Medium Heavy hooks fish better, or that you can feel the worm on the bottom much better with a graphite compared to a fiberglass. Quote
Super User MickD Posted May 20, 2024 Super User Posted May 20, 2024 Since rod makers do not objectively specify power and action it's difficult to get what you want. I suggest getting a weight equal to what lures you'll most likely be casting and tie it to a snap so that it can be attached to the tiptop of a rod. Swing your current rod to get a good feel for how it behaves. Then take it to a store with lots of rods for sale and try to find one that feels right with the weight snapped onto the tiptop. The question about handling braid is as others have pointed out-just about all rods can handle braid. The guides most likely will never groove, but an old, cheap tiptop might. But they are easy to replace, so don't worry about it. Just go fishing. Quote
Super User bulldog1935 Posted May 20, 2024 Super User Posted May 20, 2024 11 hours ago, Bazoo said: Well, I've since been on the search for fiberglass rods that are suitable to me, and I can't find anything. The above brightriver is confusing... I take it they aren't sold ready to go? I can't find them, only rods without seats. And the $400 price is a deal breaker. I want a 6' with straight cork grip, medium power. The next choice from glass is IM6 moderate graphite - here's a Crowder rod that might meet your spec, E-series Lite - Crowder makes E-glass offshore rods, and note, they think this IM6 rod is close enough to still call it E-series. I have the 7' version for inshore, and I keep coming back to its moderate action because of jerk-bait fish count. Crowder blanks are handmade (and rods finished) in US. Crowder also makes 6'6" in a lower finish grade, even-lower-modulus Graphite I. A rod worth watching ebay is Falcon Glass (you can set up a search with e-mail alert). I have the 5'10' version - the taper is a little more para, rated 1/4 to 1/2 oz and it's classic bass-glass. I'll add the rod seems to cry uncle casting 1/2 oz, but it fishes 1/4 and 3/8 very well. 2 Quote
Bigbox99 Posted May 20, 2024 Posted May 20, 2024 Try a 5'6" cherrywood. It's graphite but pretty limber from the cheap graphite and has a soft tip. I use to use one with baitcast reel with a light weight spool full of #20 braid. It made for super accurate one hand casting to targets from a kayak. 3 Quote
Super User dodgeguy Posted May 20, 2024 Super User Posted May 20, 2024 I would never use anything under Fuji Alconite with braid. I've see guides get grooved on rides with lesser guides.Not All Guides Are Good With Braid !!!! Quote
Bazoo Posted May 20, 2024 Author Posted May 20, 2024 Thank you all for the replies, suggestions, and tips. One of the things I forgot to mention, is that I am using the current rod for smaller lures; 1/4 oz crankbaits, small spinnerbaits, sometimes a frog or a texas rig (I mostly use a spinning rod for texas rigs). I do have other rods better suited to crankbaits (the Cabelas cranking stick is the stuff!), and others for general purpose stuff, be I find that I fish tight cover a lot from the bank and the rod in question actually gets more time than the others due to it's size, limberness, and the ability to put a lure right where I want it. It's about the most accurate rod I have, or I am the most accurate with it of the ones I have/have tried. The Berkley lighting rod 7' Medium, is about like casting a broomstick. It's okay with a 1/2oz lure, but anything beginning to be light and it isn't controllable. What I'm finding out is that casting control is more important to me than other features. 1 Quote
Super User PhishLI Posted May 21, 2024 Super User Posted May 21, 2024 On 5/4/2024 at 2:10 PM, Bazoo said: The title says it. What types of inserts, if any, will not stand up to braided line? I have an older Zebco casting rod, with a baitcasting reel on it, that I like for some situations. I'd love to run braid on it but I suspect that the guide inserts wouldn't hold up. If you love the rod, why not simply replace the tip top guide with a zirconia, alconite, or Sic ringed guide and don't worry about it? This is easily the least expensive route to keeping and using something you really like with whichever line you choose. 1 Quote
JackstrawIII Posted May 21, 2024 Posted May 21, 2024 You'll have more problems with stainless guides when using very light braid (like less than 15 pound). With heavier braid, it shouldn't be a problem. But yes, ceramic or AO inserts are always a good idea. Quote
fin Posted May 21, 2024 Posted May 21, 2024 22 hours ago, Bazoo said: It's about the most accurate rod I have, or I am the most accurate with it of the ones I have/have tried. I know where you're coming from. I used to use a 5 foot-something Lew's Speed Stick glass rod with the pistol grip made in the 80's with a spincaster on it. I could hit anything with it and put it wherever I wanted it to go. If I still had that combo and tried to use it now I wouldn't be able to hit anything probably. Quote
Bazoo Posted May 22, 2024 Author Posted May 22, 2024 I appreciate the replies. It's got me to thinking, perhaps I should try building/repairing rods. I don't have a passion for it (yet), but I've seen a bit of information on how it's done and I know I could handle it. The repair thing really makes me think... At this point, I'd certainly attempt to replace a guide if I happened upon a nice used rod with a broken insert. I have one that needs a new tip top, and I am sure I can handle that. I removed the old one so I could measure without issue. Thanks everyone for the replies, really gets you to thinking. Quote
fin Posted May 22, 2024 Posted May 22, 2024 I fixed two broken Cherrywoods recently and replaced a guide on one of them. Those are the first I've ever done, other than replacing tip top guides. It wasn't too difficult, kind of fun to do. I didn't have to buy anything. It took a while to set everything up. There are lots of tutorials available and obviously there's people here that can help with it. 1 Quote
Dan N Posted May 24, 2024 Posted May 24, 2024 If you interested in having a custom rod made to your liking look into ALX rods. Great customer service, and the owner will work with you directly to get you what you want. Quote
Super User MickD Posted May 24, 2024 Super User Posted May 24, 2024 On 5/21/2024 at 10:47 PM, Bazoo said: perhaps I should try building/repairing rods. It's not rocket science, and by building your own you get what you prefer. There are thousands of blanks out there, and some are offered with objective descriptions for power and action, something I've never seen on a "built rod." I don't have a single store bought rod that I use, nor does my son, daughter in law, granddaughter or grandson. But I warn you, it may not be as addictive as tying flies, but it's close. Don't expect to save any money. Expect to get better rods. 1 Quote
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