Daiwa Steez A II Factory-Set Spool Tension is Bogus?

[Larry Lunker]

I'm new to Daiwa and just bought my first Steez A II (JDM) and it's my first time working with Daiwa's "zero adjust" spool tension knob.  My first Daiwa was the new 24Steez SV which has the true zero adjust spool tension where you can't adjust and it is sweet/works beautifully but knew the Steez A II was a different animal. 

 

I read not to touch the spool tension knob and to let the external mag-brake dial do all of the work.  Coming from Shimanos I was a little skeptical but I tied on a 1/2oz jig, walked out to back yard and tried a cast.  Set the brake dial to 10 and got a backlash first cast, then another.  Bumped the brakes up more and more and still backlashed.  I backlashed until I tightened the spool tension knob by a very good amount, until there was a noticeably slower rate of free fall of my lure.   Once I got all of that sorted, it was smooth casting from there, but didn't expect all of that fine tuning given the whole "zero adjust" knob...  anyone else experience this?

 

I bought a second one (also JDM) for a small/medium size swimbait rod, tied on a 6" magdraft, stepped back out to the yard for a cast without touching the spool tension knob and again a backlash on first cast.  So happened with both reels with both lures.

 

I know about the tightening it fully then backing off until there's a tiny bit of side to side play, but that method has not worked for me with both a 1/2oz jig and 1.25oz swimbait... to find the sweet spot for each reel, I just set the external to 10, tightened spool and continued to cast, loosening the spool between each cast until I was at the cusp of backlashing.  Now I can just adjust the externals up or down depending on wind. 

 

I hate to be a cliche Shimano guy but is the 'zero adjust' knob bogus and its really more like a traditional spool tension knob?  I have a Zillion coming soon and wondering if I'll encounter the same thing.

 

 

[Bass Rutten]

ZERO ADJUST is daiwa marketing speak, you can "zero adjust" any reel that has a spool tension knob, it is not an actual mechanical feature. Just a smidgen of spool play has worked for me from 1/8oz on bfs reels to 2-1/2oz swimbaits on my tatula 200 among many other daiwa reels including my zillion.

[Bigbox99]

All my reels are set up for zero spool tension across all brands.  The zero adjuster is just a marketing gimmick to coerce you into setting up the spool tension properly, which is to not use it at all. If you are backlashing then have some sort of issue such as fluorocarbon line spooled on backwards or are failing to stop the spool when the bait hits the yard.

[AlabamaSpothunter]

I can't speak for the Steez line, but in the Zillion line Zero Adjust is not just marketing.

 

I've never touched the zero adjust dial on my two newer Zillions, and I throw everything on those things.    

 

 

[Larry Lunker]

2 minutes ago, Bigbox99 said:

All my reels are set up for zero spool tension across all brands.  The zero adjuster is just a marketing gimmick to coerce you into setting up the spool tension properly, which is to not use it at all. If you are backlashing then have some sort of issue such as fluorocarbon line spooled on backwards or are failing to stop the spool when the bait hits the yard.

it would fluff up mid-cast though... and was conscious of spooling the line properly onto reel (no different than spool any of my shimanos).  Having a hard time identifying what I'm doing wrong

5 minutes ago, AlabamaSpothunter said:

I can't speak for the Steez line, but in the Zillion line Zero Adjust is not just marketing.

 

I've never touched the zero adjust dial on my two newer Zillions, and I throw everything on those things.    

 

 

thanks, i'll give the factory settings a chance and hope for the best!

[Bass Rutten]

19 minutes ago, AlabamaSpothunter said:

Zillion line Zero Adjust is not just marketing.

Zero adjust is simply the amount of tension applied to the spool via the tension knob. You can zero adjust any casting reel with a tension knob, not just daiwas. In my eyes it is marketing as they're making it seem like a daiwa only feature, but that's not to imply zero adjusting doesn't work for some.

[Bigbox99]

3 minutes ago, AlabamaSpothunter said:

I can't speak for the Steez line, but in the Zillion line Zero Adjust is not just marketing.

 

I've never touched the zero adjust dial on my two newer Zillions, and I throw everything on those things.    

 

 

Same with my old Daiwas or any other brand of reel I own new or old that don't have a "zero adjuster".  Spool tension set to just eliminate side to side play and never touch it again no matter the bait.

2 minutes ago, Larry Lunker said:

it would fluff up mid-cast though... and was conscious of spooling the line properly onto reel (no different than spool any of my shimanos).  Having a hard time identifying what I'm doing wrong

thanks, i'll give the factory settings a chance and hope for the best!

How is the line spooled on the reel? Is the line over or under the bar in between the spool and the t-wing? 

[AlabamaSpothunter]

You guys are saying it's the same as any other reel, yet you say you had to adjust the spool tension to eliminate side to side play at least initially.  

I've literally never touched the Zero Adjust knob on either Zillion.   From the factory, I had to make zero adjustments.    

 

 

[Bigbox99]

1 minute ago, AlabamaSpothunter said:

You guys are saying it's the same as any other reel, yet you say you had to adjust the spool tension to eliminate side to side play at least initially.  

I've literally never touched the Zero Adjust knob on either Zillion.   From the factory, I had to make zero adjustments.    

 

 

I set all my reels to just eliminate side to side play to my desired idea of "eliminate side to side play" including my Daiwas with the spoon tension knob named zero adjust.  Come to think I have never received a new reel from any brand with spool tension applied.  They all shipped like zero adjust reels with no spool tension.  

[Larry Lunker]

In all of my past reels (shimano, Lews and abu garcia), I never even considered side to side play of spool.. i would always just go for the slow "elevator" free fall of lure and make the tension as loose as it go could without the spool fluffing up a bit upon lure hitting the ground on free fall.

22 minutes ago, Bigbox99 said:

Same with my old Daiwas or any other brand of reel I own new or old that don't have a "zero adjuster".  Spool tension set to just eliminate side to side play and never touch it again no matter the bait.

How is the line spooled on the reel? Is the line over or under the bar in between the spool and the t-wing? 

I did put line over that bar between twing and spool.  After initially stringing the line through all guides, I tied a little uni knot to spool, stuck a pencil through the spool of line and had my daughter hold it up for me as I reeled.  Line came off the topside of spool when she held it so it could curve back onto the top of the reel's spool.. believe thats the right way, no?  I even used a microfiber cloth sprayed with KVD line and lure conditioner on the line as I reeled.

[Larry Lunker]

Actually...for my first Steez A that I mentioned used with 1/2oz jig, I took 17lb tatsu fluoro off of one reel that I had used last season only and put it on the Steez.  I had just set my old reel down, pressed its thumb bar and loosened spool all the way before stringing it onto my Steez like I normally would have.  I was a little hesitant to do so but went for it after posing the question here of transferring fluoro from reel to reel.  I did notice the line had some strong memory and wasn't ideal, but hit it with a few treatments of kvd throughout the day and it got a little better.  (Wouldn't recommend it if you can help it) So part of me was thinking it was the recycled line giving me the issues.  But on the swimbait Steez setup, that's where I used fresh 18lb sniper fluoro and spooled it up as described above with my daughters help.

[Bigbox99]

You may have to run a higher brake setting to tame that 18 lbs Sniper.  Stiff plasric lines are like casting a slinky.  I would have opted for the Zillion HD for its stronger braking profile for casting 18lbs flouro but the Steez A II should be able to tame it at higher brake settings.  Also just letting the line sit on the spool will get it to take the spools memory and behave better.  Fresh spoolings of flouro can be a nightmare to cast with until they settle down.

[bulldog1935]

On 4/5/2024 at 10:42 AM, AlabamaSpothunter said:

I can't speak for the Steez line, but in the Zillion line Zero Adjust is not just marketing.

 

I've never touched the zero adjust dial on my two newer Zillions, and I throw everything on those things.    

 

The only time you should need to adjust them is when swapping spools.  

Since spool widths are never the same, you open zero adjust first thing, and re-set it last.  

 

[FishTank]

I have adjusted mine on my two Steez A II's but very little, just minor tweaks. Other than that, I don't touch them. The new Steez SV TW doesn't even have one you can adjust.  

 

The biggest influence I have seen on getting the Steez reels with the Zero Adjuster all out of sorts is putting too much line on the spool or in some cases braid that absorbs water. I'm guessing the extra weight just gives the spool too much start up speed. 

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

Daiwa’s zero adjust spool tension is predicated on a magnetic brake system being linear enough to allow free spool tension. That’s not to say they don’t require user input (thumbing etc). Yes, your skill and technique may allow other reels to be setup similarly but that isn’t the manufacturers intent. “Gimmick” is a little harsh but the marketing as a feature is over the top. 

[newapti5]

The first thing I do when I got a Zero Adjuster reel is to adjust it, but to make it looser. 

For Steez A's Mag-Z brake, it is designed for heavy lures. The brake inductor spring is relatively strong and the brake force is minimized, so you should set the brake a little higher, instead of tightening the so call "Zero Adjuster" knob. If you thumb the spool when casting, set the brake on 10 should be fine. If you cast really hard, or without any thumbing, brake setting on 15 or more would be suitable. 

[MediumMouthBass]

My Tatula SV TW 103's zero adjuster is the opposite of yours, mines so tight from the factory that i couldnt backlash it if i wanted too, i also cant cast most lures past 50' so next time im fishing ill be having to adjust it quite a lot. Just got to find a way to get my fingers to grip the dial with how recessed they made it.

[PhishLI]

13 hours ago, Larry Lunker said:

I know about the tightening it fully then backing off until there's a tiny bit of side to side play, but that method has not worked for me with both a 1/2oz jig and 1.25oz swimbait

Adjust the knob for zero play/zero tension then adjust the external dial higher for no overrun. Ignore the numbers. They're only a reference. Adjust it to where needs to be. If that doesn't work for you, then adjust your casting stroke.

 

The A2s Mag Z isn't as forgiving as your Steez SV. Even so, your casting stroke doesn't need to be hard or snappy with Daiwa's MagZ brake. Less is often more. This isn't to say you shouldn't power cast, because you can, and I certainly do. The trick is, that power is applied slightly differently on the pull forward and release point compared to reels using friction brakes. 

 

Also, heavily greased spool bearings out of the box has been a thing lately with Daiwa. This messes with the casting in the short term. The grease will break down over time, but you can cut it by adding light oil to each spool bearing. You will absolutely realize a difference once the grease has been expelled, namely, your brake setting can be lowered with less consequence.

[waymont]

21 hours ago, Larry Lunker said:

n all of my past reels (shimano, Lews and abu garcia), I never even considered side to side play of spool.. i would always just go for the slow "elevator" free fall of lure and make the tension as loose as it go could without the spool fluffing up a bit upon lure hitting the ground on free fall.

Daiwa reels do not get adjusted like other reels. The bait should drop completely unrestricted. I have 4 Steez reels and all of them have a touch of left to right spool movement, and can be set to 4,5,6 (in strong wind I might go up to  7-8)without any backlash. If you have two that are acting the same, it is probably something you are doing. 

[Larry Lunker]

2 minutes ago, waymont said:

Daiwa reels do not get adjusted like other reels. The bait should drop completely unrestricted. I have 4 Steez reels and all of them have a touch of left to right spool movement, and can be set to 4,5,6 (in strong wind I might go up to  7-8)without any backlash. If you have two that are acting the same, it is probably something you are doing. 

Thanks, exactly…must be me casting too hard or something. Will experiment once I finally get out on water with them.

9 minutes ago, waymont said:

Daiwa reels do not get adjusted like other reels. The bait should drop completely unrestricted. I have 4 Steez reels and all of them have a touch of left to right spool movement, and can be set to 4,5,6 (in strong wind I might go up to  7-8)without any backlash. If you have two that are acting the same, it is probably something you are doing. 

You want to feel the tiniest bit of side to side play in spool when it’s filled with line already right? And when feeling for the side to side play, can a lure be hanging off the end of rod or should there be no lure tension at all when checking for spool play?

[waymont]

13 minutes ago, Larry Lunker said:

And when feeling for the side to side play, can a lure be hanging off the end of rod or should there be no lure tension at all when checking for spool play?

I don't think that would have any effect on the spool movement.

[Bigbox99]

12 hours ago, Delaware Valley Tackle said:

Daiwa’s zero adjust spool tension is predicated on a magnetic brake system being linear enough to allow free spool tension. That’s not to say they don’t require user input (thumbing etc). Yes, your skill and technique may allow other reels to be setup similarly but that isn’t the manufacturers intent. “Gimmick” is a little harsh but the marketing as a feature is over the top. 

Every reel I own with a centrifugal brake came out of the box with no spool tension and I fish them without spool tension.  Daiwa does does not have any special sauce that allows only their reels to do this.

 

[bulldog1935]

make sure you buy only the reels that have no hype names dubbed on their technology and simple features.  

You won't be fishing much.  

 

Quite simply, Daiwa's Zero Adjust intentionally made the knob difficult to get to, next to impossible to bump and mis-adjust, and the name reiterates - Leave This Alone.  The name is also accurate, it sets Zero position on the spool (and requires some dexterity when you want to do that).  

 

Hagane probably doesn't mean anything to the Japanese.  But where Shimano uses it, it denotes this is forged metal, which makes it cleaner and stronger than die-cast metal, and stiffer than composite.  

 

hmmm

[TheWitness33]

I have a 2014 Zillion and just keep the spool tension so that the spool has one click of play (when the spool has no play, one click on the tension knob gives it a slight bit of play) and keep the brakes at zero. From the time i learned BC's there was always an adjustment knob. I don't think i'd like one where they decide where it is.

[Bigbox99]

Spool tension is training wheels for fishing reels.  It's fine for beginners that are learning how to use a baitcast reel but like training wheels it is teaching you the wrong way and you will have to relearn how to do it properly at some point.   Training wheels teach you that leaning the bike is bad and that you should stay upright and perched on the saddle of the bike which is not how you should ride a bike.  Go to any single track on a mountain bike and you will be in for a world of hurt.  You'll learn real fast you need to lean the bike in turns and get rider and bike separation.

 

The same applies to the spool tension knob.  If you learn to cast with that thing smashing the ends of the spool shaft the line will be taunt between the bait and rod on the cast.  This will prevent the reel from spitting out enough slack line on the cast and will have baits want to pendulum swim back at you rather than fall vertically (hence the old adage "you can't get a vertical fall with a baitcaster")  This will also cause the rod tip to be loaded as the bait flies through the air and this can cause issues with inconsistent bait flight characteristics when switch between a reel with no spool tension and picking up one that does.