rx6 sp843 vs mhx sj843

[Mbirdsley]

looking for opinion between the rx6 sp843 and the mhx sj843.   both rods are 7ft medium rods.  the rx 6 is

• Line Weight: 8-14lb.
• Lure Weight: 1/4-5/8oz.

 

 

the mhx sj843 8-15 lbs medium 7ft about all the info that lure net has about the blank 

 

i’m looking to use the rod for general purpose spinning stuff. first and foremost i would use it for wacky rigging and dragging a 1/4 oz tube jig.  secondary things would fishing deep for smallies with like 1/4-1/2 oz ball jig with craw or yamamoto hula grub.  i have a 7ft st.croix m/l triumph for the smaller ned rigs.  really i envision this rod for fishing deep smallies and wacky rigging. 

 

i havnt been happy with the way my full sized rods have came out.  my ice rods look phenomenal for some reason.  so im really just trying to keep it basic and and on the lower end of the money scale.  I have a whole sale account through lure parts.com for my jig business so I can get the rx6 in a complete kit for $54 dollars.  the mhx blank will cost just over $54 plus the rest of the components which, would be well under $100.  i could possibly look at the sc2 blanks for rd geeks. 

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

According to the listing on Get Bit the Rx6 equivalent is sb842.  I think you’d find the MHx just a touch lighter tip and maybe a little faster. They’re both good blanks and should work for your application. Weight and dimensions are almost identical. 

[Mbirdsley]

2 hours ago, Delaware Valley Tackle said:

According to the listing on Get Bit the Rx6 equivalent is sb842.  I think you’d find the MHx just a touch lighter tip and maybe a little faster. They’re both good blanks and should work for your application. Weight and dimensions are almost identical. 

thanks.  i was leaning more towards the kit.  it comes with split grip eva grips.  i may switch the grips out for a  cork split grip.  

 

id probably be using braid.  the little bit softer tip wouldn’t hurt anything would it ? 

[MickD]

I've seen your builds, and I think you are beyond the kit stage, if you want to be, especially if you're considering switching out parts.  Kits can be constricting.  Have drill press?  You can easily turn cork on a drill press, if you need details, let me know.  Here is a site that has a lot of CCS data, although not the ones you are looking at, but close.  https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1r3zv1ygtuUjPBa-c5LT9RTYeDR_pnCDIkVIdDv0YoeQ/edit#gid=988464562

 

SJ

SJ 842

84

550

78

19.24

1

This is the blank just under the 843, and the AA of 78 is quite fast, the power of 19 about what most would consider medium.  

SJ

SJ843-2

84

786

75

25.31

This is the two piece version of the SJ843, a little slower action and significantly more powerful, I would call it more like a M-H power. 

 

No data on the SP843, but I expect it to be more in the range of the SJ842 for power, but a little slower.  I have a couple RS RX6's and they are very nice rods, but different models.  I also have built and fished a 6 1/2 foot MHX, and it too is a very good quality rod.  

 

By specifying your own parts you can get whatever guides you want, which would include the Fuji KLH guides, very affordable in SS.  If you need tips on them, let me know.  KLH reduction guides with KB/KT runners is all I use on spin.  Love them.  

[MikeK]

Measured . . .

Batson SP842: 84", 5.0T, 0.395"B, 1.61oz, 257g IP, 66AA

Batson SP843: 84", 5.0T, 0.478"B, 1.76oz, 329g IP, 63AA

MHX SJ842: 84", 4.5T, 0.538"B, 1.81oz, 562g IP, 75AA

MHX SJ843: 84", 5.0T, 0.554"B, 2.33oz, 785g IP, 76AA

[MickD]

Great data!  Gives a really good understanding of how the blanks will perform.  For bottom contact I would prefer the faster actions, SJ842.  If you want to stick with Rainshadow, SP 843, but I'd like a faster action, and more power.  If RS calls that M power, is there a kit with MH power?  I'd call 329 grams light or M-light power.   More like a Ned rod. 

 

There is a kit based on the SB842 which I think is a good fit if you want to stick with RS.  I have a travel rod, SB841-3 which is a great rod, very fast action, about 575 grams.  Called a ML power, most would call it medium.  

 

This whole exercise shows the futility of selecting what you want when the subjective ratings are all over the place, even within the products of one manufacturer.  For example the SB841-3 is more powerful than the SJ842-1.  841 is called ML and the SJ842 is called M power. CCS tells the story accurately. 

[spoonplugger1]

As shown above, the SP series, though it is probably Rainshadow's most popular is something you would use for popping and wading rods on the Gulf or as a crankbait rod, etc. for freshwater fishing, great kids rod for the times when they may encounter bass and panfish one minute and a catfish the next sort of thing. The lighter powers have been used for trolling trout and kokanee, great all arounders.

[Alex from GA]

For bottom contact baits, which is what you'll be using, a higher quality blank, ie: more expensive, is called for.  Like an MHX Elite Pro or Elite X or the Rainshadow Immortal line.  

[Mbirdsley]

8 hours ago, MickD said:

I've seen your builds, and I think you are beyond the kit stage, if you want to be, especially if you're considering switching out parts.  Kits can be constricting.  Have drill press?  You can easily turn cork on a drill press, if you need details, let me know.  Here is a site that has a lot of CCS data, although not the ones you are looking at, but close.  https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1r3zv1ygtuUjPBa-c5LT9RTYeDR_pnCDIkVIdDv0YoeQ/edit#gid=988464562

 

 

SJ

SJ 842

84

550

78

19.24

1

This is the blank just under the 843, and the AA of 78 is quite fast, the power of 19 about what most would consider medium.  

 

SJ

SJ843-2

84

786

75

25.31

This is the two piece version of the SJ843, a little slower action and significantly more powerful, I would call it more like a M-H power. 

 

No data on the SP843, but I expect it to be more in the range of the SJ842 for power, but a little slower.  I have a couple RS RX6's and they are very nice rods, but different models.  I also have built and fished a 6 1/2 foot MHX, and it too is a very good quality rod.  

 

By specifying your own parts you can get whatever guides you want, which would include the Fuji KLH guides, very affordable in SS.  If you need tips on them, let me know.  KLH reduction guides with KB/KT runners is all I use on spin.  Love them.  

thanks for the kind words however, i think i’ve been worried about colors of he thread and coloring of eva handles rather than focusing on flawless rod.  there’s just a lot mistakes in my previous builds. its stupid stuff like seeing the blank through the wraps, to much epoxy on running guide, fitment of the differnt cork or eva pieces.

 

 i finally figured out how to shape a fighting butt to the main grip( this stressesed me out for a long time).  glue the butt to the grip, take a bushing of either wood or plastic. put tape around bushing to fit the ID of the grip, stick it into grip and than other end into the hand held drill.  i’ll probably have to use a zip tie to control drill speed.  with knowing this now i can make joint look good between the rear grip and butt. I 

 

even though my rod geek c473mhxs was a $100 rod.  i don’t think i am good enough to be building in $100 rd blanks yet.  seems like i always buy the wrong size guides, that gets annoying. 

 

i do have a drill press and crb arbors that i used to build my last 2 grips. what was throwing me for a loop was figuring out how to shape somthing that didn’t have a hole all the way threw it like a cork or eva butt piece to the grip.

[spoonplugger1]

You can also just chuck up a drill bit or other straight rod long enough to hold your short grip, and shape it, than install on the blank as needed, I have lots of grips built just waiting for a rod to put them on. My favorite ergonomic shape on a Fuji TCSM skeleton on a Seeker BS 706S S-glass blank crankbait rod. Notice the center is a bit larger than the ends. Length, 5 cork rings, 2 1/2 inches. 180 it and you pretty much have the butt shape and length.

[Mbirdsley]

6 hours ago, MikeK said:

Measured . . .

Batson SP842: 84", 5.0T, 0.395"B, 1.61oz, 257g IP, 66AA

Batson SP843: 84", 5.0T, 0.478"B, 1.76oz, 329g IP, 63AA

MHX SJ842: 84", 4.5T, 0.538"B, 1.81oz, 562g IP, 75AA

MHX SJ843: 84", 5.0T, 0.554"B, 2.33oz, 785g IP, 76AA

well with this info i think im leaning with the mhx  sj842 or sj843

 

i do have one rx6 blank but its a mh 3/8-1 oz casting rod.  it is a fast action but, is definitely a bit slower in the tip as compared to other mh fast rods. 

6 hours ago, MickD said:

Great data!  Gives a really good understanding of how the blanks will perform.  For bottom contact I would prefer the faster actions, SJ842.  If you want to stick with Rainshadow, SP 843, but I'd like a faster action, and more power.  If RS calls that M power, is there a kit with MH power?  I'd call 329 grams light or M-light power.   More like a Ned rod. 

 

There is a kit based on the SB842 which I think is a good fit if you want to stick with RS.  I have a travel rod, SB841-3 which is a great rod, very fast action, about 575 grams.  Called a ML power, most would call it medium.  

 

This whole exercise shows the futility of selecting what you want when the subjective ratings are all over the place, even within the products of one manufacturer.  For example the SB841-3 is more powerful than the SJ842-1.  841 is called ML and the SJ842 is called M power. CCS tells the story accurately. 

it is very hard to figure out an action on blanks or any rod components with out putting your hands on them. 

[MikeK]

I know a rod builder in Wisconsin who builds a lot of MHX SJ842 for vertical jigging walleye.

[MickD]

44 minutes ago, Mbirdsley said:

it is very hard to figure out an action on blanks

The more you use CCS the easier it is to be predictive, and to match a blank's characteristics that you like.  If the length, IP and AA's are the same, the rods will be very similar.  The differences after length,  power, and action would be weight and true natural frequency.  If they also match then the blanks will be for practical purposes identical with respect to feel, casting distance, sensitivity, and how they fish.  

[Mbirdsley]

4 hours ago, MikeK said:

I know a rod builder in Wisconsin who builds a lot of MHX SJ842 for vertical jigging walleye.

i would like to build a dedicated jigging rod for walleye too.  it would be nice to have a dedicated rod walleye rod for this time of year.  i only live 20 minutes from the saginaw river and like a hour from the detroit river.  other than some trolling rods i don’t have dedicated trolling rods. 

[Mbirdsley]

i was in sports man ware house today.  i made it a point to look at the rods in the fishing section.  particularly looking at ty guides wraps on the rods.  i looked at a couple of $180-$190 lews and abu garcia spring combos and yikes they are making the same screw ups that i am.  i feel a little better about my abilities now haha 

 

the st.croix, Gloomis, ducket, and other higher end rods looked fine at least technically. but, most of the wraps are nothing special 

[Chris Catignani]

1 hour ago, Mbirdsley said:

...  i looked at a couple of $180-$190 lews and abu garcia spring combos and yikes they are making the same screw ups that i am.... 

 

Glad you see that...most mistakes are unnoticed and inconsequential.

[MickD]

20 hours ago, Mbirdsley said:

 glue the butt to the grip, take a bushing of either wood or plastic. put tape around bushing to fit the ID of the grip, stick it into grip and than other end into the hand held drill.

Got a pic of this?  Not sure I understand.

[Mbirdsley]

8 hours ago, MickD said:

Got a pic of this?  Not sure I understand.

here is a video of what i was talking about 

 

However, as you stated in the email i could just glue both pieces together and than stick them on the mandrel.  put the mandrel in the drill press.  i would just have to glue a piece of cork, eva, or rubber in place of the hole and than sand it smooth. 

[MickD]

Thanks, Michael.  This is a good solution if constructing a fighting butt or butt knob from scratch.  I'll give it a try. 

 

Another option to closing the hole that I like is to install a rubber auto trim panel bumper into the hole with epoxy.  Finishes off nice, gives a soft "landing" if standing a rod up, looks nice, unobtrusive.  I'll try to get a picture today.  

 

The one weakness that I see of the option shown is getting the butt knob hole drilled out to the blank diameter concentrically if one is starting with an already assembled butt knob, like I often use as fighting butts on fly rods.  .  I've had trouble doing that.  Any tips on doing that would be appreciated.

[MikeK]

1 hour ago, MickD said:

The one weakness that I see of the option shown is getting the butt knob hole drilled out to the blank diameter concentrically if one is starting with an already assembled butt knob, like I often use as fighting butts on fly rods.  .  I've had trouble doing that.  Any tips on doing that would be appreciated.

 

Try bottoming chamfer tapping bits.  Run them in reverse with a variable speed drill stepping up in size as needed.

[MickD]

1 hour ago, MikeK said:

bottoming chamfer tapping bits

Would I not need a pretty large number of them to handle various blank sizes?  Pretty pricey for each?  

[MickD]

On 12/16/2023 at 9:44 PM, Mbirdsley said:

nice to have a dedicated rod walleye rod for this time of year.  i only live 20 minutes from the saginaw river and like a hour from the detroit river.

I think these two jigging for walleye techniques are very different.  The much higher current of the Detroit River requires much heavier jigs, I believe, and would require a much stouter power than what would work well on the Saginaw River or Saginaw Bay.  At least from my experience.  Jig weights of 3/4 and 1 oz are what most use on the Detroit River, I think.  Better do some research before expecting one rod to do both.  I think for what you are looking for now the SJ842 would be the best choice.  For the Detroit River the SJ843 probably would be.  Or use a casting outfit for Detroit River.

[MikeK]

3 hours ago, MickD said:

Would I not need a pretty large number of them to handle various blank sizes?  Pretty pricey for each?  

I use 7/16" 1/2", 9/16" for cork, EVA, Winn.  Fine thread better for cork.  Regular twist drill bits worked by hand are also good for cork.  I got mine from a set that was being replaced because so many other sizes were broken.  Also have a friend that got a bunch of different sizes for almost nothing at a garage/yard sale.

[Mbirdsley]

7 hours ago, MickD said:

I think these two jigging for walleye techniques are very different.  The much higher current of the Detroit River requires much heavier jigs, I believe, and would require a much stouter power than what would work well on the Saginaw River or Saginaw Bay.  At least from my experience.  Jig weights of 3/4 and 1 oz are what most use on the Detroit River, I think.  Better do some research before expecting one rod to do both.  I think for what you are looking for now the SJ842 would be the best choice.  For the Detroit River the SJ843 probably would be.  Or use a casting outfit for Detroit River.

i think shorter rods for walleye jigging would be handier.  would there be an issue if cut 4-6 inches off the butt of those ? 

[MickD]

When you cut from the butt the action will be slower, the power less.  Have you considered the difference in jig weight between Saginaw River and Detroit River?  I could be wrong, but I think the current speed is much higher in the Detroit River than Saginaw, and that would require heavier jigs and a more powerful rod.  IMHO.   Walleye jigging in a lake with 1/4 oz jigs and jigging in the Saginaw River with maybe 3/8 oz jigs and jigging in the Detroit River with 1 oz jigs are three different "walleye" techniques, in my opinion.  And for optimum fishing, they require three different rods.  Forget about "walleye" and consider the conditions and lures.