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Cold Water Texas Rig Bites


Go to solution Solved by Pat Brown,

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  • Super User
Posted

Try pegging the weight a foot or 16' above the hook, the lightest weight you can possibly get away with, really a mojo rig.  I feel like I have more time to set the hook with a lighter weight because there's less resistance when the fish swims off with the bait.    As a kid, I used to use tubes with an earplug stuffed inside to slow the fall, it would make a difference in getting bit or not when the water is in the mid 30s or low 40s, but its going to cause you to lose some fish.  I would suggest trying a smaller floating stickbait, like a Zmans 4" hula stick.  Some people like big baits in the winter, but in the colder parts of the country the majority of bait in the water that's active are small.  Try a lighter wire hook, when it gets cold their mouth hardens a good bit and a thinner wire will get better penetration.    

  • Like 5
Posted
7 hours ago, GetFishorDieTryin said:

Try pegging the weight a foot or 16' above the hook, the lightest weight you can possibly get away with, really a mojo rig.  I feel like I have more time to set the hook with a lighter weight because there's less resistance when the fish swims off with the bait.    As a kid, I used to use tubes with an earplug stuffed inside to slow the fall, it would make a difference in getting bit or not when the water is in the mid 30s or low 40s, but its going to cause you to lose some fish.  I would suggest trying a smaller floating stickbait, like a Zmans 4" hula stick.  Some people like big baits in the winter, but in the colder parts of the country the majority of bait in the water that's active are small.  Try a lighter wire hook, when it gets cold their mouth hardens a good bit and a thinner wire will get better penetration.    

Sort of sounds like a split shot rig. I also like lighter wire hooks.

Posted

Must have a lot to do with hookset style or something like that. I tried a bunch of flavors of worm hooks and couldn't for the life of me get a hook in the fish. Just kept blowing it out of their mouth. But (specifically) the mustad grip-pin EWG has been really reliable, and a flipping-style hook works just fine. But this style just doesn't work for me and my sweep set:

 

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Posted

Any of you folks ever side skin hook a worm? I did that once when I was having a tough time catching bass on a plastic worm. Hadn't thought about it in a long while.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

If the bass are swimming off with it I would let them have it a little longer before setting the hook, also I would cast back into the area where you first got the bite.  Sometimes a bass will swim off with the bait if there are other bass in the area.

  • Like 3
Posted

I've never once had a problem with hooksets with EWG hooks. 

 

Worth noting that bass in cold water have tough, hardened jaws and flesh compared to the soft, squishy summer months. Make sure you're jacking them.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 12/14/2023 at 2:19 PM, Catt said:

Why?

 

Lots of anglers follow this theory & I don't understand why. 

I’m not claiming this will improve the hookup ratio but from what I understand the theory is that if a straight shank round bend hook is used in combination with a pegged (bobber stop) weight & a snell knot, the hook eye will pull up against the conic shape under the sinker & rotate/leverage to a more horizontal position during the hookset. This places the hook point over top of the shank & supposedly results in more hookups in the roof of the mouth.

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  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

@RipzLipz That's pretty much what I’ve heard. Its also believed that straight shank hooks in general have a more solid hookup ratio.

 

My question is why one wouldn't use straight shank hooks for every plastics application?

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

I use the EWG, straight shank, and the offset round bend for different things based on the bait thickness,  the water conditions, and sometimes line size. 

 

The only one I have issues with is straight shank. Hook sets are fine but fish tend to pop the hook out if they jump. In close quarters this isn't an issue. 

 

In cold water,  certain baits seem to get stiffer and it makes hook penetration harder if you bury the hook. For instance, a Dinger or a 7in Power Worm. So like mentioned above, swing hard. 

 

For me, in cold water, I stay with a wacky rigged senko or some type of Ned rig.

  • Like 1
Posted

@Catt I can’t speak for everyone, nor will I ever intend to do so. Like you, "what I’ve heard, read, watched" has implied that the straight shank can often tear up the bait more frequently. Also, for some, a snell knot isn’t the easiest knot to tie, let alone rocking around in a boat.

 

As always, some anglers just do certain things because that’s their comfort zone. For me, that’s how I view it (comfort zone) & most things in regards to fishing in general. If something works, we may often think, why change it up? Then again, if we never try to change or adapt, will we improve in any way? No different than seeing the left lane on a busy highway full of traffic but the right lane is completely uncluttered. Many folks are just naturally sheep & follow what everyone else does.

 

I hope that makes some semblance of sense. Sometimes us anglers just overthink things, too, when we should "just go fishin’". 😉

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

Worm hooks are always changing design to solve strike to hook set ratio. The last 2 years nearly every hook mfr offers 2 improvements; worm peg to hold the head from sliding down the hook shank and closed eye to prevent the line being caught in the wire end by adding epoxy or welded close eye.

Type of hook is anyone’s preference. I prefer straight shank round bend worm hooks for larger sizes 3/0 to 6/0.

#5133 for light wire size 1/0 & 2/0 for slip shot rig and octopus type Mosquito and Gamakatsu drop short hooks for nose hooking drop shot rigged. #4709 size 1 wacky hook for Senko’s.

I Don’t smell tie any hook for worm fishing.

Tom

  • Like 1

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