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Posted

I’ve been fishing a big worm for the past two years on mainly an unpegged 1/2 ounce tungsten flipping weight with good success. Does the free rig provide much difference with the eyelet ?

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Posted

Huge difference, you can't be using a Free Rig, without a Free Rig specific weight with a fully opened eyelet, and a swivel attached to the weight.

 

The way in which it falls on initial cast and on the bounces during retrieve is where it's doing its magic.  

 

Your bait is falling straight down for the most part with a T Rig as it dragged that way from the "attached" in line bullet weight, not the case with using a Free Rig as the line has far more freedom of travel.     

 

Very nuanced to us as humans, but whatever it is, it flat out kills them.   

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Posted

I don't use a swivel, however the eye of the free rig weight swivels

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Posted

The free rig and a standard bullet weight set up, to me, are two different techniques.

 

The free rig is sort of a Carolina rig. I like to use up to a 1/4oz open, swivel head drop shot weight. I let it fall to the bottom, pop it kind of hard (this allows the weight to travel up the line), and then I fish it with smaller pops or I drag it. It works great for back gliding baits like the Geecrack Bellows Shad or Gill, the Deps Cover Scat, the Fat Ika and the OSP Dolive Beaver.

 

Line can also be a factor. I have tried it on all three (FC, mono, and braid). It tends to work best on FC. 

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Posted

The free rig has been around for a while, but it never had a name.  Years ago I heard of guys fishing free rigs with crankbaits, to get the bait down near the bottom, and keep it down there. 

Posted

“Bass Casting” sinkers - about a buck at Wally World. Heaviest I throw are 3/8-ish.

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Posted

I use Reins Slim Round Eye Sinkers: https://bit.ly/3qdC6CP 

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Posted

Nako skinny free-rig weight - https://www.amazon.com/nako-Density-Tungsten-Weights-Sinkers/dp/B09Z67XMG9?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1

 

Weight depends on the depth I'm fishing.

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Posted

The old Water Gremlin Dipsey sinker has worked for decades before the “free rig” was created. 

Tom

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Posted
31 minutes ago, WRB said:

The old Water Gremlin Dipsey sinker

That's what I used for various techniques...before I got rid of all my WG weights. Look up how many times the WG plant has been cited for pollution, OSHA violations and other things...and they never really fix anything. Now I avoid WG like the plague.

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Posted

So you think tungsten weights made in China are cleaner mfr’s?

Tom

 

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Posted

i use the pencils drop shot weights from a do-it mold.  the mold has 2 differnt ways to put the eye loop into the mold.  either loop down into the led and you can attach the line like a traditional drop shot or you put the loop up.  loop up is how i run the free wieght rig with the line running through the loop. 

 

 i found 1/4 oz is about right wieght for most of the free wieght applications that i fish which, is usually in sparse grass 

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Posted

I have found I like these two the best. The pencil weight is from Decoy and the other is from Reins. Both have a barrel swivel. I like the pencil around weeds and bell shaped one for everything else.  Also, both are cheap and can be found at Digitaka.

 

20231202_222755.jpg.bf0c3f4e8d51a17c8180ca1efd7c6ccf.jpg

 

 

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Posted

What I've learned over the last year is that;

 

it catches fish.  initial fall, hops of all kinds, and dragging

if the eyelet is too big, it'll catch a bit on the backside of the knot, limiting the free part

if the eyelet doesn't swivel, your line lasts only a few hours

1/16-3/8oz has covered me up to 20' and windy, but 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4 are probably my most useful

digitaka has the best prices I've seen for them 

 

scott

Posted

Does anyone put a bead between the weight and the knot to prevent hanging up?    I am going to play with this rig next year.   Seems logical.  

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Posted

Bobber stop at the knot, bead above that...to mitigate the bead/weight knocking against the knot weakening it.

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Posted
1 hour ago, softwateronly said:

What I've learned over the last year is that;

 

it catches fish.  initial fall, hops of all kinds, and dragging

if the eyelet is too big, it'll catch a bit on the backside of the knot, limiting the free part

if the eyelet doesn't swivel, your line lasts only a few hours

1/16-3/8oz has covered me up to 20' and windy, but 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4 are probably my most useful

digitaka has the best prices I've seen for them 

 

scott

I haven’t seen swiveling ringed weights, that’s a thing? 

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Posted

This video answers a lot of questions:

 

 

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Posted
On 12/3/2023 at 7:55 AM, Bandersnatch said:

I haven’t seen swiveling ringed weights, that’s a thing? 

It is a thing and the thing that currently makes the weights harder to find and pricey.   Reins, decoy, and spro are the companies I use currently. 
 

https://www.digitaka.com/item/149/55/79/4989540821596

 

https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/SPRO_Tungsten_Drop_Shot_Sinker_Long/descpage-STDSS.html

 

scott

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Posted

I use 1/4 oz down to 15 fow… 3/8 deeper than that. Am only using pencil style weights. Casting style, bell sinkers etc seem to “grab” any grass on the bottom.  They may or may not snag, but they throw the feel off for me. 

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Posted

Well here’s kind of my barrier to entry with at least tungsten weights. If I’m gonna buy tungsten, which I am, it should be ideally no chip, must have the weight printed/engraved and in this case apparently have a swiveling open eye head. There’s a ton of weights but only a handful meet this criterial from what I saw. The Nako weights seem to also fit the bill. 
 

https://nakoshop.com/products/tungsten-free-rig-skinny-drop-shot-weights

 

it’s he cool if they went higher in weight 

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