Advice on mounting a bow trolling motor to an aluminum stick steer boat

[Seafury]

So I burned up and wanted to replace my crapy 45lb foot controlled pos trolling motor that came with my 1994 Lowe 162 jon boat.

 

I got that hunk of crap off, but now I am unsure how to mount my brand new min kota 48" riptide powerdrive ipilot 55lb I bought, with the RTA-017 quick release.

 

The bow surface area to mount to is small.

The nose of the boat is pointy.

The flat bow is not flat, the middle center is higher than the sides, so the motor has to go on one side or the other.

The boat is front stick steer with my throttle on the starboard, and my stick steer beside me port side, and my FF I mounted on the port side slightly in front of me.

The trolling motor has to be mounted at an angle so the when stowed the head is off to my side and not in the way of the throttle, or stick steering, or FF on the port side.

The FF I could move to the starboard side if I need to mount the trolling motor to the port side.

Old trolling motor was mounted starboard side.

 

The real issue is this:

The quick release bracket uses a very small rectangular puck that mounts to the boat.

Then the large base mounts to the trolling motor.

The base sits over the puck flush to the bow deck, and is held in by a pin.

 

In order to mount this thing so it clears the very pointy bow enough to properly deploy, and when stowed the head is not in my way for driving, the tiny puck has to be mounted so far forward that I can only use 2 bolts on one side of it, and the 3rd bolt is likely way to close to the outer edge curve of the bow inside the hull for me to get a bolt/washer/nut on it, and the 4th and final bolt hole is hanging off the bow unusable.......

Also the predrilled hole in the puck are counter sunk as the base on the motor goes flush over this puck.

So if I drill new holes in the puck I need to get a countersink bit as I don't have one.

 

So I am thinking about getting a piece or 2x6 pressure treated board and bolt that to the bow deck sticking out slightly pas the bow, then attach the puck to that.

That means the puck will be partially on the deck and maybe 15% of hanging over the bow but attatched to the board.

But in order to do that I will have to mount the puck to the wood using mostly screws instead of bolts/washers/nuts as designed.

 

I am not sure this is safe or a good idea?

 

What would you all recommend I do here?

 

Mount the puck to the bow deck with 3 bolts, if I can get the 3rd one in, and ignore the 4th hanging in the air past the bow?

Or properly bolt a 2x6 pressure treated board to the bow deck and screw the puck into that and hope the screws hold?

 

No I don't want to pay to have this done, I'm a very handy do-it-yourselfer, but have never done this type of work and want to do it right and properly.

I'm SUPER excited to have a stronger saltwater rated ipilot spotlock trolling motor!

Even though it costs me a fortune to buy.

 

What do yall think?

 

 

 

[A-Jay]

What do I think ?

I think you need to post pictures of;

your old motor,

your new motor,

The mounting hardware,

the head of Alfredo Garcia 

and The Beatles White album.

A-Jay

 

[Woody B]

I had a Terrova on a minn kota quick release mount and ended up removing the quick release.  It was really noisy.   The pressure treated lumber on an aluminum concerns me due to corrosion.   Do you "need" to use the quick release bracket?   I'd recommend not using the bracket.  I suspect you can get 4 bolts in the trolling motor itself.  I looked at the diagram of the bracket and don't like the small footprint, even if you could get all the screws in it.  

 

Added: Having spot lock is worth whatever trouble you have during installation.   

[MN Fisher]

15 minutes ago, Woody B said:

The pressure treated lumber on an aluminum concerns me due to corrosion.

Ya - pressure treated lumber doesn't play well with aluminum.

 

This is the mount I built from 1/8" aluminum angles and sheet for the Edge 45 on my boat...it'd work for a Power-Drive. Front of TM rests on the bow-plate and is bolted to the mount. The mount bolts through the deck with two of four bolts also going through the aluminum frame underneath.

 

 

[Seafury]

3 hours ago, A-Jay said:

What do I think ?

I think you need to post pictures of;

your old motor,

your new motor,

The mounting hardware,

the head of Alfredo Garcia 

and The Beatles White album.

A-Jay

 

Your right, pics would have helped.

I will try to get some but the forecast is rain all weekend here and I already packed the new trolling motor up and the old one is already removed lying in the boat.

No garage as usual so I am still at the whim of the weather to work on stuff outside.

 

Hardware is just then normal bolts/washers/nuts that come with the motor and the quick release plate.

 

And I just noticed tonight I have a nail in my left rear E rated $300 truck tire, looks like it penetrated all the way in so tomorrow in the rain I get to drive to all the booked up tire shops and beg for a flat repair lol.

 

No dice on the head of that guy (don't know him) and not a big fan of the Beetles lol.

[Seafury]

2 hours ago, Woody B said:

I had a Terrova on a minn kota quick release mount and ended up removing the quick release.  It was really noisy.   The pressure treated lumber on an aluminum concerns me due to corrosion.   Do you "need" to use the quick release bracket?   I'd recommend not using the bracket.  I suspect you can get 4 bolts in the trolling motor itself.  I looked at the diagram of the bracket and don't like the small footprint, even if you could get all the screws in it.  

 

Added: Having spot lock is worth whatever trouble you have during installation.   

Yea I figure with the wood I will be replacing it every few years.

I have seen pics of many other people do something similar so it must not be that bad, but it looks like ass, especially on my white boat and white truck.

Guess I could paint the board white 🤪

 

Not worried about any noise, the quick release plate is some type of heavy plastic /shrug.

Yes, I absolutely need the bracket because no garage and boat lives outside so I need to be able to constantly remove the trolling motor and take it with me when I park the boat every weekend after going out.

 

I'd be hard pressed to even mount the motor without the quick release bracket on the 4 rear most bolt holes, but it is probably doable, but again I need to be able to remove it fast and easy every time I park the boat after going out on it, which is every weekend both days weather permitting.

 

Yea I to was surprised that the small puck mounts to the boat and larger outer part of the bracket mounts to the motor but it makes sense as the puck is too small to reach the mounting holes on the motor itself. It's a VERY common plate that's been out for years so I don't expect any issues out of it.

Motor is only 55lb and boat is only about 800lbs before I get in it so its not under as much load as say a fiberglass bass boat would put on it.

We will see how it goes and I will report back if I find any issues with the $70 quick release plate.

 

Other options are getting some kind of metal plate to bolt to the boat bow to extend out front of the bow some, then mount the puck on that, but it needs to be simple, precut, and cheap because 95% of my tools are packed away and after buying the trolling motor my wallet is already bleeding out lol.

 

Oh yea this trolling motor is going to make my fishing SOOOOO much more enjoyable since I'm mostly on tidal rivers down here and the current/tide is VERY swift, and I'm fishing upriver in the fresh water where its only 10-20 yards wide and sometimes less. Trying to use this old edge 45lb foot-controlled motor has been a nightmare and a joke and I can only use it sitting down because there's not enough room for me to stand and use the pedal while fishing.

 

Whatever it takes, I will get this thing securely mounted 😎

2 hours ago, MN Fisher said:

Ya - pressure treated lumber doesn't play well with aluminum.

 

This is the mount I built from 1/8" aluminum angles and sheet for the Edge 45 on my boat...it'd work for a Power-Drive. Front of TM rests on the bow-plate and is bolted to the mount. The mount bolts through the deck with two of four bolts also going through the aluminum frame underneath.

 

 

 

Really?

I would think pressure treated 2x6 and maybe even stained/enamel coated would be fine with the aluminum?

 

That looks very nice and needed since your deck is below bow rail height, mines all flat mostly.

I just don't have a garage or the tools or anyplace to build something like that.

 

All I really need is a long flat strong metal plate wide enough to mount the trolling motor quick release plate to. 

 

Your a better man than me using that edge foot-controlled thing, I can't stand it, so awkward, uncomfortable, and annoying imo.

I despise foot control motors and even if it was on a flat decked bass boat in a recessed footpedal hole I would rip it out as soon as I could save up for a wireless spotlock model.

 

Hell I'm still ticked most of the trolling motors are still using 100 year old brushed motors instead of modern brushless motors like is in all my RC airplanes, trucks, cars, boats, for almost like 20 years now.

 

Yea the new Lowrance motor is brushless, and outrageously priced, and I think the new Garmin motor is also, and also outrageously priced. Hell to the no.

I already feel ripped off paying $1700 for this 12v 55lb 48" ipilot model.

 

Such is life lol.

 

I will figure something out hopefully this weekend in the rain and report back.

[MN Fisher]

15 minutes ago, Seafury said:

All I really need is a long flat strong metal plate wide enough to mount the trolling motor quick release plate to. 

Place I get my aluminum is Coremark - they can cut to specific size and ship it anywhere from either Minneapolis, MN or Fort Worth, TX. Their aluminum prices are even lower than big box stores like Home Depot, Lowes or Menards.

https://www.coremarkmetals.com/aluminum

[Seafury]

So I tried to add pics from my phone but every single pic is too large to post here.

 

SO lame, cell phones take big beautiful high-res pics these days but we can't post them anywhere due to size limitations.

[MN Fisher]

1 hour ago, Seafury said:

So I tried to add pics from my phone but every single pic is too large to post here.

 

Couple ways around that -

1: E-mail the pic to yourself - most e-mail programs compress the pic before sending

2: Most phones allow you to edit the pic...one option is a re-size feature. I usually drop my pics from 3000x4000 to 900x1200 before posting.

3: Download to your PC/Laptop and use photo editing software to resize.

[Seafury]

OK here is a pic of the old motor.

I again forgot to take pics while I had the new motor outside just now trying to test fit it!

 

Now its all back in the box packed up inside the house again lol.

 

I prefer the new one to be mounted the same way since I walk the trailer neck and climb into the boat on the port side when launching so I don't have to get in the water.

 

This is the new motor:

Minn Kota 1363556 Riptide PowerDrive Trolling Motor - 12V (55 lbs.), 48" Shaft, i-Pilot GPS - Walmart.com

 

This is the quick release bracket.

Amazon.com: Minn Kota 1854017 Quick Release Bracket / RTA-17 White : Sports & Outdoors

 

The tiny center puck is what mounts to the bow deck.

Due to how far forward the motor has to go to pivot down with clearance this leaves the puck with 1 of 4 mounting holes out in the air, and 1 to close to the edge of the bow and curve of the hull to bolt it to the hull, so that leaves the 2 inboard side holes to mount to the bow deck.

 

After more trial fitting this morning before the rain started, I think I need a metal (aluminum?) plate under the plastic mount, to mount it like the old one.

This way the metal plate can be securely mounted to the bow deck further back, and the plastic puck for the quick release can be mounted to the metal plate even with 1 hole hanging in open air it will be bolted to the plate under it also hanging in the air. Does that make sense?

 

The other option is some pressure treated 2x6 then stained or enameled (to make it last longer) This would be cheaper and easier/faster to procure and install than metal, but would not look as good and likely have to be replaced every few years.

 

[Seafury]

14 hours ago, MN Fisher said:

Place I get my aluminum is Coremark - they can cut to specific size and ship it anywhere from either Minneapolis, MN or Fort Worth, TX. Their aluminum prices are even lower than big box stores like Home Depot, Lowes or Menards.

https://www.coremarkmetals.com/aluminum

I just looked at this site, thank you for sharing it!

 

They almost have what I need.

I looked at 1/2" plate, but I need it 7"x17" and they max out at 7"x11" at $40-90 depending on how they cut it.....plus shipping.

 

I will try to find something the right size locally. I might go to a boat shop and ask them for advice, if they will talk to me.

I know I could just pay a place to figure this out and mount it, but I don't have the money for all that. If I had money, I absolutely would do that, and buy a new better boat with an even better trolling motor lol. 

[airshot]

Better to use plywood than a 2x6, much stronger !!  With a good coat of paint ir other sealer it will last for many, many years...  If your worried about only having 3 bolts, just increase the dia of the 3 bolts to gain vack the strength of not having the fourth bolt.  

[MN Fisher]

2 minutes ago, airshot said:

Better to use plywood than a 2x6, much stronger !! 

And cheaper - get some 1/2" thick BCX (you don't need marine grade) and seal with oil based Spar Urethane before painting/carpeting. That's what the decks of Bass Trek are made of

[WRB]

You can buy 1/2” thick 2’ x 4’ pre cut marine plywood about $24.

Cut 1 side to match the bow shape, the opposite as needed to accommodate your TM mount. Use SST finder washers as spacers to level the plywood. I would use 4 bolts to mount the plywood through the bow deck and seal the bolts using 3M 5200.

Paint the plywood or coat it with Polyurethane (Varathane).

Tom

 

 

[Seafury]

2 hours ago, WRB said:

You can buy 1/2” thick 2’ x 4’ pre cut marine plywood about $24.

Cut 1 side to match the bow shape, the opposite as needed to accommodate your TM mount. Use SST finder washers as spacers to level the plywood. I would use 4 bolts to mount the plywood through the bow deck and seal the bolts using 3M 5200.

Paint the plywood or coat it with Polyurethane (Varathane).

Tom

 

 

So after wasting 2 days trying to figure out a solution, I'm leaning towards this.

Your saying marine plywood is a better choice than pressure treated and sealed 2x6?

 

That half inch plywood is enough to support the 55lb trolling motor?

 

In this scenario, the plywood is of course bolted to the thin aluminum bow deck with 4 staggered/oddly arranged bolts which can't be under the full base of the trolling motor so most will be behind the trolling motor inwards towards the throttle in my pics.

I may be able to add some width, but basically there will be no bolts holding the wood to the bow where the trolling motor sits

The motor base plate is 7Wx12.5"L

I need a piece of plywood about 9" wide and around 27" long, which will put about 6" of it hanging off the front of the bow at an angle.

The quick release puck will be held to the plywood, and through the thin aluminum bow plate with 2 bolts on the inboard, then a screw in the outer rear hole to close to the bow rail/curve of the inner hull for a bolt. Then the last bolt will be hanging in the air on the overhanging piece of this plywood.

 

Check out my crude drawing lol.

 

9 hours ago, MN Fisher said:

And cheaper - get some 1/2" thick BCX (you don't need marine grade) and seal with oil based Spar Urethane before painting/carpeting. That's what the decks of Bass Trek are made of

What is BCX and why not use marine grade?

[MN Fisher]

5 minutes ago, Seafury said:

What is BCX and why not use marine grade?

If you want to spend the money - Marine Grade is 2x-3x the cost of BCX.

BCX is sanded one side - used when only one side is visible

ACX is sanded both sides - used when both sides are visible

Marine Grade is treated ACX - not the pressure treatment that fence posts or other wood exposed to the elements, but a different process.

 

Again - do not use standard pressure treated wood on an aluminum boat, even just the out-gassing fumes from the treatment will affect the aluminum

 

Any bare wood treated with 2 coats of oil-based Spar Urethane is as well or even better protected than marine grade, for less cost...just some people don't want to spend the time treating the wood

[Seafury]

31 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

If you want to spend the money - Marine Grade is 2x-3x the cost of BCX.

BCX is sanded one side - used when only one side is visible

ACX is sanded both sides - used when both sides are visible

Marine Grade is treated ACX - not the pressure treatment that fence posts or other wood exposed to the elements, but a different process.

 

Again - do not use standard pressure treated wood on an aluminum boat, even just the out-gassing fumes from the treatment will affect the aluminum

 

Any bare wood treated with 2 coats of oil-based Spar Urethane is as well or even better protected than marine grade, for less cost...just some people don't want to spend the time treating the wood

Understood, pressure treated lumber is bad with aluminum.

 

I will see what they have at Lowes/Homedepot tomorrow.

All specialty places will be closed in this town on a Sunday so hopefully they have what I need.

 

I would prefer the marine grade if possible, might as well use the best if I can buy a small piece of it.

 

They seem to have it at my local Lowes online in stock for $150 4x8' no other listing so maybe they have smaller pieces in store, I'm not paying that much when I only need a small piece of that lol.

This listing also just calls it douglas fir, no mention of "marine grade".

It does say it's for "use in marine applications like boats".

It also says you must seal the edges AND exposed face for high moisture environment, which is what I will be doing with it hanging off the bow lol.

3/4-in x 4-ft x 8-ft Douglas Fir Sanded Plywood in the Plywood & Sheathing department at Lowes.com

 

Now about this BCX which should be have much cheaper.

So Lowes does not list anything called BCX, they have "Severe weather" "pressure treated southern yellow pine".

Severe Weather 23/32-in x 4-ft x 8-ft Pressure Treated Southern Yellow Pine Plywood Sheathing in the Plywood & Sheathing department at Lowes.com

 

That acceptable or is that the wrong pressures treated again?

 

Thanks for everyone's advice btw!

 

[MN Fisher]

9 minutes ago, Seafury said:

That acceptable or is that the wrong pressures treated again?

Wrong pressure treatment again

 

This is what you're looking for - and it's only a 2'x4' piece for $24

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Unbranded-23-32-in-x-2-ft-x-4-ft-Pine-Sanded-Plywood/5001997945

 

Then use this to seal it - quart is more than enough for this project - $20

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-32-fl-oz-Satin-Oil-Based-Polyurethane/999914537

[WRB]

Marine plywood is typically has more layers. You can fabricate what you need from 1 piece 2’ x4’, more strength use 5/8” or 3/4” thick. Look up marine plywood supplier near you.

Tom

[Catt]

First off I can't believe y'all ain't got no aluminum fabrication shops near you. I could have that built in about an hour for the price of a 6 pack of beer.

 

Second any of y'all try finding marine grade plywood that is actually in stock?

 

Third to stop the corrosion between treated wood & aluminum, simply use a sealant between the two.

[Seafury]

16 hours ago, MN Fisher said:

Wrong pressure treatment again

 

This is what you're looking for - and it's only a 2'x4' piece for $24

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Unbranded-23-32-in-x-2-ft-x-4-ft-Pine-Sanded-Plywood/5001997945

 

Then use this to seal it - quart is more than enough for this project - $20

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-32-fl-oz-Satin-Oil-Based-Polyurethane/999914537

Thank you, your awesome!

 

They only had 4x8' sheets of marine grade so I went with your exact recommendations.

 

Cardboard template is made and traced onto the wood and dropped off with my cousin-in-law to cut out for me later today hopefully. (90% of my tools are packed up in a trailer)

 

Then I just have to line it all up, the quick release bracket, and trolling motor, then mark all my holes, drill them all out, then seal it all up with the polyurethane, then let it dry a day or 2, then coat it again.

 

Then when I mount it I'll put some of that 5000 RTV or whatever its called on the bolt holes that I used to mount my Transducer on the transom.

 

Here are some good pics (I remembered this time!)

 

Thanks to everyone's input I am able to complete this fairly properly, even if it's with wood.

 

I'll also post pics when it's all done and working!

 

I must say I almost wish I had bought the scissor style trolling motor like the edge that came off the boat, it would have easily bolted right on the same way the old one was.

But those models with ipilot were WAAAY to expensive!

 

 

[Seafury]

Here are roughly where the holes will go guessing by eye.

 

First pic black holes are plywood to bow deck.

Second pic yellow holes are quick release puck to plywood.

 

Obviously, I will have to line it all up once I have the cut board to get them exactly where they need to be, then drill baby drill!

 

[VolFan]

I got the following from Midwest Steel and Aluminum:

6061 Aluminum Plate (6061ASHT250)
Size: .250
Quantity: 1
Width: 10
Length: 36
Price: $34.63
 

I used it for a front plate behind my bow cap and to mount my troller. If you want something permanent and professional looking, you can’t beat it. You don’t need .25 thickness- I just did that to match the bow cap height. It’s easy to work with. 

[Seafury]

23 hours ago, VolFan said:

I got the following from Midwest Steel and Aluminum:

6061 Aluminum Plate (6061ASHT250)
Size: .250
Quantity: 1
Width: 10
Length: 36
Price: $34.63
 

I used it for a front plate behind my bow cap and to mount my troller. If you want something permanent and professional looking, you can’t beat it. You don’t need .25 thickness- I just did that to match the bow cap height. It’s easy to work with. 

Good to know, thanks for sharing!

 

I'm already deep into this wood project now, but I may want something aluminum in the future!

[Seafury]

Pics of the final install!

 

 

More pics of install!

 

 

With the motor installed!

 

 

More motor install pics!

 

 

Final install pics!!

 

 

 

------------------------

 

The motor worked awesome and was able to hold us very well in rapid incoming tide within 3-5ft of spotlock location even between two laydowns where it was too shallow to pass until the tide got higher, then we dead floated over a fallen tree and went another 1/2mile up river to my fishing spot.

 

This thing is a game changer!

 

Made my fishing time SOOOOOOOO much more enjoyable and less stressful not having to constantly worry about where the boat was going!

 

Also I can move around the boat anywhere I want and don't have to stay in the bow cockpit with that old dumb foot pedal!

 

Best piece of fishing equipment ever, outside of having a boat itself lol.

 

If you fish from any kind of boat and don't have a spotlock trolling motor, your doing yourself a HUGE disservice!

 

Thanks for everyones's help, advice, and guidance for helping me make this install possible.

You guys are awesome! 👏😎