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Posted

Folks,

 

I’m thinking about making a line switch next season for my main jig rod setup. I ran 12 pound straight fluoro this year and it did fine. I also have an excellent jig rod in the expride 7’2” MH along paired with a curado reel. Just thinking the braid to leader combo might give me that little extra sensitivity for the subtle bites. 
 

What pound test do you recommend? Would a 20 lb main line and 12 lb fluoro leader work? Also please keep in mind I’m fishing in Michigan where the typical “big” largemouth I can expect to hook up with are 4-5 pounds and smallies about the same. Yes there are bigger but those are the exception not the rule. Where I’m jigging is also near weed edges and rock piles and not heavy wood and gnarly cover. I have a heavier setup for that. 
 

Thanks in advance!

  • Like 1
Posted

I run suffix 832 10lb  and I run a long 17lb florocarbon leader due to all the rocks I am constantly rubbing against in the river. For you I would match the test of the leader to your main line. That’s just me though. 

  • Super User
Posted

You may lose strike detection using braid with leader combo using jigs. Strike detection on a tight line will improve but be reduced on slack line strikes.

I wouldn’t go under 30# braid of choice on a bait caster and factor in 20% less knot strength at the braid to leader knot.

Good luck,

Tom

  • Like 6
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I agree with Tom.  I fish braid to leader or straight braid and think 30lb is the sweet spot for "normal spool" reels.  Line management/dig can become more pronounced for me under 30lb.

 

scott

 

ps - I can't recommend enough that it's worth learning and using the fg knot.

  • Super User
Posted

I look at this way. I would go straight braid if you're fishing vegetation and braid to leader if you're around wood but if you're doing both, I would stick with FC, except I would go heavier.  I tend to like 16lb Sniper BMS or Shooter. Invizx or Abrazx are also good choices.  For braid,  I have been liking 40lb YGK Jigman or Upgrade.

  • Like 2
Posted

I run Fireline on most of my “bottom contact” rods. Good sensitivity, better abrasion resistance than most braids, and not having the built in failure point of the leader knot.

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I've been running 20lb Power Pro straight braid on my casting rods for years. Love it.

  • Super User
Posted

I will run straight braid when I absolutely have to move bass quickly out of heavy cover. I only do this in water 15' or less. In shallow water there's no issues losing sensitivity.

 

I use 50# Sufix 832, that way I buy 1 spool for all my braid required techniques.

  • Like 4
Posted

Good responses thank you. I’m surprised to hear I would lose sensitivity on bites going broad to fluoro. No stretch with braid so why would I lose bite detection? Straight braid in slow jig bottom contact presentations is tough with moderate pressure and some clear water in places here. 

 

When offshore jig fishing I’m usually around weed edges not a lot of heavy cover like wood. Of fishing heavy stuff I have straight heavier braid. I might stick with fluoro but I’m interested in these answers. 

  • Like 1
Posted
17 minutes ago, Bucks Bass and Bourbon said:

No stretch with braid so why would I lose bite detection?

True, braid has no stretch. But it also has no slack line sensitivity because it is so soft / supple. Braid is super sensitive when the line is tight, but not so much when the line is loose. You can make up for that by using bright color braid and watch the line.

 

I have been liking Yo Zuri hybrid for the last couple of seasons, minimal stretch, clear line, and decently sensitive, good knot strength. I will and do use braid as well, but only on spinning reels and on baitcasters when fishing weeds.

  • Like 1
Posted

For rocks and wood I use 15 lb Big Game in mean green. For vegetation I use 30lb braid. Sometimes I use both interchangeably without a hitch. I stay with the bait so slack line sensitivity is no issue. I also never fish deeper than 15 feet. I gave flouro a fair shake the last couple years, I am done trying it. 

  • Like 2
Posted
48 minutes ago, LCG said:

True, braid has no stretch. But it also has no slack line sensitivity because it is so soft / supple. Braid is super sensitive when the line is tight, but not so much when the line is loose. You can make up for that by using bright color braid and watch the line.

 

I have been liking Yo Zuri hybrid for the last couple of seasons, minimal stretch, clear line, and decently sensitive, good knot strength. I will and do use braid as well, but only on spinning reels and on baitcasters when fishing weeds.


Ah ok I didn’t know that. Learned something new today, thanks! I dropshot and wacky rig on slack line a lot but jig almost never except on the fall so that might not matter much. 
 

I might give the 30 pound a shot and see how it works with a similar diameter fluoro leader. 

  • Super User
Posted

Regardless of line used feeling a worm/jig bite requires keeping a certain amount of tension on your line while at the same time keeping a certain amount of slackness in your line.

 

With straight braid this becomes more pronounced. Heavier weights helps with this problem providing the bass doesn't mind.

  • Like 5
Posted

We are fishing straight 40 lb. Power Pro moss green braid on most everything except Texas rigged worms, flukes, etc...(straight FC on those). Someone on here told me to try taking a black sharpie and blackening the last 6 ft. or so of the line before the lure. I did and it seems to work beautifully.

  • Like 1
Posted

30lb 832 to a 12lb fc leader.

  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thanks again for all the replies. The reels are stripped and put up for the season but I think I’ll give the 30 pound braid to 13 pound fluoro a go and see how that works out. 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Braid as mainline is less about strength and more about matching the diameter of your leader and minimizing how much it digs into itself on the spool. I prefer 40lb mainline for most applications including what you're trying to do. Lets me go between 12 and 20lb leader. But 30lb should still work for you.

  • Like 1
Posted

If you're going to spool with braid, I don't recommend adding a fluorocarbon leader for jigs. If water clarity, or abrasion is a concern stick with straight fluorocarbon.  I use a high-viz braid on my jig rod and color the last couple of feet with a green Sharpie. You can break up the profile by using a black Sharpie dabbing every 3in. or so on the green. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 11/24/2023 at 10:32 AM, Bucks Bass and Bourbon said:

Thanks again for all the replies. The reels are stripped and put up for the season but I think I’ll give the 30 pound braid to 13 pound fluoro a go and see how that works out. 

Great place to start. I run almost all my set ups, including my cranking combo with braid to leader. 

  • Like 1
Posted
11 hours ago, papajoe222 said:

If you're going to spool with braid, I don't recommend adding a fluorocarbon leader for jigs. If water clarity, or abrasion is a concern stick with straight fluorocarbon.  I use a high-viz braid on my jig rod and color the last couple of feet with a green Sharpie. You can break up the profile by using a black Sharpie dabbing every 3in. or so on the green. 


I would love to do that but I don’t think straight braid is feasible. A lot of the lakes and rivers I fish are very clear and not having a fluoro leader would absolutely cost me fish, especially as they start getting a little pressured. 
 

That’s ok. Just means I need to keep my FG knot tying skills sharp. 

Posted

I would try straight braid, or green mono for that matter. Prove to yourself that it does or doesn’t cost you bites. I have seen flouro stick out like a sore thumb in bright sunshine, especially once it has worn in and stretched a bit. 

Posted

I just believe that connection knot is just one more thing that can go wrong. I haven’t found braid to be any less abrasion resistant than mono or flouro. Mono may be the best for me around rocks, and braid of course for grass. 

  • Like 1

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