What is copolymer, monofilament, & flourocarbon?

[jb_adams]

What is the difference between copolymer and fluorocarbon?  I know that monofilament is one extrusion of line material.  A fluorocarbon has an inner extrusion with an outer layer correct?  I think I've read this before somewhere but I have become confused again.

Can someone straighten me out here?

[roadwarrior]

The basics:

Monofilament: One nylon component (ex. Trilene XL)

Copolymer: More than one type of nylon combined into to a single line (ex. P-Line CXX)

Fluorocarbon: A crystal with approximately the same light refraction index as water (ex. Triple Fish)

Hybrid: Bonded nylon and fluorocarbon components (ex. Yo-Zuri Hybrid)

Coated: Copolymer core with an exterior coating of fluorocarbon (ex. P-Line Floroclear)

[Raul]

MONOfilament = a single continuos strand regardless of chemical composition.

Mono can be manufactured with nylon, fluorocarbon, co/multipolymer. The point is, if it 's not multifilament it 's monofilament, under that definition fluorocarbon is monofilament, nylon is monofilament, cored/coated is monofilament ( a polymer core covered with a sheath of another polymer ), hybrid ( mixture and bonding of several polymers ) is monofilament.

[roadwarrior]

I suspect Raul is technically correct and it doesn't surprise me that fishing lingo is deficient. The post I made is about the distinctions fishing companies have promoted. These classifications may be disingenuous even though they are commonly used in the industry to identify different lines.

[lubina]

Very good info.

[Raul]

Tecnhically it is that way RW, if it 's a single strand then it is monofilament, our terminology as anglers is the one that stayed behind, back in the old days when dinosaurs ruled the earth and we had to dodge T-Rexes in order to get to the lake there were only two types of synthetic line available for fishing, nylon and dacron ( silk line is even older than dinosaurs ), nylon was monofilament, dacron was multifilament ( braided ), normaly you fished with dacron for big game and with monofilament for lesser game.

The principle that applied to both lines back then are still seen right now, braided has a thinner diameter, has less strectch and it is more friendly in larger diameters, as the diameter of nylon increases the less manageable it becomes; also the increase in diameter nylon vs dacron was quite noticeable. 50 pound dacron is manageable, 50 pound nylon is as thick as a rope.

It 's no surprise that "mono" became synonimous with nylon and for decades it was that way, but back in the 80 's new materials appeared in the market, materials that originally were not intended for main line purpose ( like fluorocarbon ), also, manufacturers began blending this new space age materials in ways never seen or heard before and the result of those blends and the manufacturing process ended up with a single strand line which is technically monofilament.

What characteristics does the "ideal" line should have ?:

1.- MONOFILAMENT: why it has to be monofilament ? am I being stubborn ? no, monofilament has a lot less friction coeficient, in real terms it means that it casts farther and easier.

2.- Near zero stretch: if you are catching fish at 10 ft the line stretch doesn 't matter much but if you 're catching fish 30 yards away line stretch counts a lot, why ? well the "stretchier" the material it creates several situations:

A ) it takes a longer time lapse between you feeling the stike and setting the hook because the line is acting like a shock absorber, I don 't mean it 's taking seconds, it 's taking tenths of seconds but in the real world a tenth of a second can be the difference between catching a fish and catching nothing.

B ) the same stretch that delays the hooksetting because the line is acting like shock absorber also reduces the actual power transfrence between the force you apply to set the hook and the actual force that is applied by the hook point on the tissue that 's trying to penetrate.

3.- Resistant to abrassion: the line is submitted to all sorts of punisments during a cast, while you retrive the lure and while you fight a fish; sand, dirt, rocks, trees, you name it, all those cause abrassion.

4.- Near zero memory: the less the line coils the more manageable and friendly it is.

5.- Resistant to temperature changes without altering it 's properties: I guess that northern guys understand this very well, dip your line in frezing water and it turns into a wire, who wants to fish with wire ?

6.- Resistant to UV light and Ozone: aside from rocks, brush, etc. two things that destroys line by destroying it 's molecules, UV light and ozone play a big role in line durability.

7.- Water resistant: the continuos cycle of absorbing water and drying also destroys line making it brittle, in the long term the line is useless.

Is there really an ideal line in the market today ? NO, that 's the reason why manufactures are trying to find a line with all those characteristics and the way they do it it by mixing different materials in an attempt to provide us with the ideal line.

Right here right now there 's no best line, every single one you find in the market fails in one, two or more characteristic that the ideal line should have.

Which is THE BEST line ? The one that behaves and fits your needs and you feel comfortable with.

[roadwarrior]

Well said. (I would add visibility to you list of features.)

There is no "BEST" line, there are only "FAVORITE" lines.

[RoLo]

Any single-strand line is "monofilament", common examples are nylon and fluorocarbon.

Furthermore, some copolymer lines are "monofilament" (Berkley Sensation)

while some copolymer lines are "cofilament" (Yo-Zuri Hybrid). "Hybrid" is just another term for "copolymer".

The industry never waivers, it's fishermen who rewrite the definitions.

Roger

[senile1]

Good information from all.  To answer jb_adams' original question:  What is the difference between copolymer and fluorocarbon line? . . . . . .  

Copolymer lines tend to be softer and have superior knot strength to Fluorocarbon lines.  They are created by taking two or more monomers and creating a copolymer via a chemical process.  The resulting line generally is more abrasion resistant, has less stretch, has higher tensile strength, etc. than monofilament lines  

Fluorocarbon lines are heavier which helps to get a bait deeper, faster.  They are also close to invisible because their refraction of light is similar to that of water.  Fluorocarbon is stiffer than mono or copolymer lines.  Pure Fluorocarbon does not absorb water, thus making it stronger.  

I, personally, prefer hybrid lines over either copolymer or pure fluorocarbon.  Hybrid lines, as RW stated, are a combination of nylon and fluorocarbon. (Copolymer or monomer combined with Fluorocarbon.)

[jb_adams]

So....

I guess my question was geared towards "basic technical" for line type specs and not anything complex.  I knew flourocarbon is preferred for baits like crankbaits, senkos, or any other presentations where you want the bait to sink quickly.

Are there any other rules of thumb for line type selection?  Can someone break it down in laymen's terms like the summary below?  I'd like to know what lines are best for what baits or water clarity too.  Obviously, flourocarbon is best in clear water because of it's low visibility.

Summary:

- Flourocarbon is usually good for clear water because it absorbs little to no water and good for allowing baits to sink, subject to nicks or abrasions, stiff, weaker knot strength but stronger than mono

- Monofilament is softer than flourocarbon, resists nicks or abrasions, stronger knot strength and good all around use

- Copolymer or Hybrid mixes best of both flourocarbon and monofilament yet copolymer and hybrid have different compounds and slightly different characteristics  (what characteristics?)

Is that right?

[Bass Magnet]

This is one of the best post I have seen on this site. This info is good for the new and old alike.

All line has its pros and cons but when you get the opportunity check out Hi-Seas web site. It will explain a lot about their lines and might answer some questions. They are my line of choice.

It is always good to contact the company if you have a question about their line. All of them have a way to contact them and Hi-Seas is very good about helping out. They care about the angler.

The Bass Magnet

[Raul]

There 's actually no "rule of thumb", it 's what you like the best. For instance I fish with Trilene Big Game 10 - 12 pound test for everything but for flipping ( 17 lbs ). In that poundage the line is strong, has low memory, is very abrassion resitant, transmits well the vibration, doesn 't stretch much and I can see it. For flipping 17 pound test has served me well, wouldn 't recommend it for casting because it behaves like wire.

Co/mulitpolymers are very good in the thinner diameters because they combine the manageability of a very low diameter line with extremely high breaking point ( RW can give you a much better insight in this subject, he knows very well this kind of lines. )

Fluoro, I like the line but it 's not really my bread and butter, I can 't see it and for me being able to see the line is very important.

[lubina]

This is one of the best post I have seen on this site. This info is good for the new and old alike.

Agree....Thank you guys.

[Valascus]

I agree. This is a very informative post. I have often wondered which style or type of lines excel at certain applications. This info helps give better insight into that. As far as I go...I fish most of my stuff with Yo-Zuri Hybrid Ultra Soft. The exceptions are heavily weedy or woody areas...then it's PowerPro time.

[jb_adams]

Well since we're all thinking what a great post I've made...  (joke)

Here's a question for you.

Is it recommended to use combinations of line types for specific applications?  For example, use a 14-17lb Co-polymer and a 4ft leader of Berkley Vanish flourocarbon that would be used for baits in clear water presentation??  You could use a fly rod knot to join the line together and it would allow the best of both worlds for strength, low vis. clarity for clear water presentation, and still allow for switching back and forth from regular copolymer to a copolymer/flourocarbon when needed, all on the same reel.  That way, us guys with only 4-6 rod & reels would not have to keep only one for flourocarbon, one for copolymer, one for Yo Zuri Hybrid, one for.....well, you get the idea.

By using a leader of your choice of line pound size, type, and color, you could use multiple applications and bait presentations on the same reel without having to re-spool.

I read somewhere that for a C-rig, using a flourocarbon leader was recommended.  I think that's where I got the idea and what started this entire post anyway.

Thanks for all the input guys! ;D

[Guest avid]

You make an excellent point jb_

I use braid on virtually all of my tackle.  I also tie leaders.  I use a uni to uni knot of 15 lb trilene big game for most of my topwater and jerkbaits.

For swimming finesse worms and little flukes I'll often go with 8lb trilene xl and a circle hook.

[roadwarrior]

Wow!

I guess my approach will sound too simplistic, but I fish Yo-Zuri Hybrid Ultra Soft #6 on spinning tackle and #12 on baitcasting equipment. I tie a Palomar Knot except on big treble hook lures. For these I tie a Trilene Knot. Nothing special, no leaders and no adjustments.

[jb_adams]

Wow!

I guess my approach will sound too simplistic, but I fish Yo-Zuri Hybrid Ultra Soft #6 on spinning tackle and #12 on baitcasting equipment. I tie a Palomar Knot except on big treble hook lures. For these I tie a Trilene Knot. Nothing special, no leaders and no adjustments.

I like your approach.....clean...simple...and easy to use!  I KNOW my partner will like it.  He's all about Yo-Zuri hybrid.

He says I think too much.  I say, when you're learning from sratch, don't be affraid to turn over a rock and discover something new.  Sure, you might get bit but you'll learn and that's what makes you a better angler, KNOWLEDGE & EXPERIENCE!!

Thanks guys! ;D

[Raul]

I only use Trilene Big Game 10,12 & 17 pounds, done that for over 15 years.

Once I tried braid, it ended up in the trash bin after two trips.

Tried fluoro also, followed the same path braided did.

[SPEEDBEAD.]

As for a big fish scenario...look up FishChris's set up, he uses braid only and ties a fluoro leader.

I think I saw one or two of his fish that would test just about any member's set-up. You cant argue with success.

[lubina]

You make an excellent point jb_

I use braid on virtually all of my tackle. I also tie leaders. I use a uni to uni .

I do the same with a P-line Fluoro or CX 15-20 lbs. I just don't like braid with treble hooks.

[Raul]

As for a big fish scenario...look up FishChris's set up, he uses braid only and ties a fluoro leader.

I think I saw one or two of his fish that would test just about any member's set-up. You cant argue with success.

Caught plenty of biguns between 10-13 pounds with 10,12 and 17 pounds Trilene Big Game.