Welded Aluminum Shallow Bottom Boat Recommendations?

[AJ Hauser]

Hey boys,

I was hoping to get a few leads / suggestions. I fish a lot of small lakes using my modified jon boat (14 foot x 4 foot) but it's leaking in several areas. I will continue to patch it through this year and next, but we are going to move to Arkansas next year - and I will be fishing the White River as well as Bull Shoals. I'm not confident enough in my current dingy to take it into a river with current like that - plus, if I get a wider, more stable boat, my wife will fish with me. She's an awesome fishing partner. 

 

I would like to get a 16 or 17 foot welded aluminum boat without a steering console, that has some storage capacity for rods, possibly a livewell, and without a camo paint job. Something rock solid. I have a 15 hp outboard that would live on the back (I don't travel with it on my current jon boat because I don't want to put that stress on the transom while driving. It's a pain moving motors, graph, batteries and all of that from the truck bed to the boat with every launch and again before the trip home - plus I lose about 30 minutes of fishing time.) What brands / makes / models do you all like for shallow boats like this? Here is what I have been looking at so far, in order of interest:

 

1. https://havocboats.com/

2. https://www.wareagleboats.com/

3. https://www.loweboats.com/

4. https://www.trackerboats.com/

 

Right now I'm not worried about budget or new vs used - I'll worry about that later. (No, I'm not independently wealthy but I would invest in quality in this area, no question.) Any suggestions or feedback are welcome on brands and getting the most out of boats like this in general.

 

Thanks fellas!! Talk soon. 

[Susky River Rat]

I have a few questions for you. How strong is the river current?  How shallow do these water ways get? Do you have the potential to be running in less than a foot of water to get to fishing spots? Are you going to be hitting rocks? You made the pun about rock solid. That’s why I asked. How much experience do you have fishing rivers out of boats like you will be fishing?

 

Personally, I would be looking at hulls around  .100 thick. The lay out will probably be what determines your brand. It’s a work horse boat. Most are bare bones. There is not to much that changes between them. Now when you start getting package boats with jets certain manufacturers do it better. Which that’s not what you are after.

[GRiver]

Not trying to steer you away from Bass Resource…….

Tinboats.net  I got a lot of information from there, I’ve did a couple of tin boats. 
I have a welded Polar Kraft 15/48 mod.v.  I’m real happy with it. There is a ton of different options. I like to keep my boat simple, not a lot of accessories, less to go wrong and maintain . 

[Catt]

Alweld boat Lonsdale Arkansas 

Extremely solid, all welded,  completely customizable.

 

I've been running one for years with zero issues 

[Susky River Rat]

@GRiver that is a great place. I go there for Jet boat info.  Sounds to me he just wants your typical small OB prop Jon boat to brush, bang and scrape around. 

[Captain Phil]

I fished out of a 16' Lowe Roughneck for ten years.  Used it in both fresh and salt water.  Toughest aluminum boat I have ever seen.  Nearly indestructible. I would have no problem buying one used, but I would want a new motor. 

[volzfan59]

Sea Ark boats are also an excellent boat. Like War Eagle, they're built in Monticello, AR. A lot of the trout guides on the White River run jet outboards, wouldn't be very beneficial on the lake though.

 

You might give some thought to a tunnel hull hull, maybe with a small hydraulic jack plate. If fishing a shallow river you could raise your outboard. Still couldn't run as shallow as a jet. On the lake, you can drop it down. Just a thought.

[Catt]

5 hours ago, volzfan59 said:

 

You might give some thought to a tunnel hull hull, maybe with a small hydraulic jack plate. If fishing a shallow river you could raise your outboard. Still couldn't run as shallow as a jet. On the lake, you can drop it down. Just a thought

 

I'm running a 2 1\2" Proformance Tunnel but with Nauticus Smart Tabs SX instead of a jack plate. The hole shot is about the same as a jack plate which is what you want. The motor is mounted higher on the transom. 

 

 

[Scott F]

Blazer boats out of Ellington MO, made the hull of my last aluminum boat. It started out as a bare hull, and was modified to suit my needs by a custom builder at a very reasonable price. 

 

[volzfan59]

3 hours ago, Catt said:

 

I'm running a 2 1\2" Proformance Tunnel but with Nauticus Smart Tabs SX instead of a jack plate. The hole shot is about the same as a jack plate which is what you want. The motor is mounted higher on the transom. 

 

 

I forgot about running a tunnel with trim tabs! Sorry about that Catt.

[TnRiver46]

What people run most on the white river is a big long rectangular jet boat with big oars and locks, kind of wide open most of the hull. They look fiberglass.

 

 

 

my wife’s uncle used to rent aluminum jon boats with 9.9 hp and run up once the generation water arrived 

[Catt]

Alweld Jet series 

https://www.alweld.com/jc-jet-series

[AJ Hauser]

Holy moly this turned into a robust conversation - thank you guys so much for all of the feedback and input! I took the jon boat out again yesterday and as soon as I put 'er in the water, water started sputtering up underneath the deck... caught a couple nice ones skipping bushes overhanging the shoreline, but after a few hours I had to GO!

 

I might try to patch it and get another 12 months out of it - but in the meantime, I am looking to research and make a purchase. I need a size, storage and stability upgrade, but hopefully I can still get into these dirt-shallow areas...

 

@Darnold335 The White River is a completely new body of water for me. It sits right below the dam, so I'm sure at times the current is substantial - possibly even unsafe? Here is a link to the info from right by the dam, I think - but I have no idea what I'm looking at... I will definitely hit rocks... because I am a clod. 

 

@GRiver I added welded Polar Kraft(s) to my list of sites to research - this was what you meant, right? I'm with you - I prefer simplicity but I do need some storage at this point. 

 

@Catt thank you as well! The Invader series looks sweet - and I think it had rod storage and more, plus it does not have the steering console, which I prefer. What model do you run? Does the tunnel (+tabs) allow you to keep the motor mounted higher, permanently instead of messing with a jack plate? 

 

@Captain Phil I have Lowe bookmarked for sure - the 1860 might be in my price range. I appreciate your vote of confidence. 

 

@volzfan59 SeaArk is one I had never heard of - just bookmarked 'em. With us moving down to Arkansas next year I need to just get a job at one of these places...  The hydraulic jack plate is a great idea. 

 

@Scott F I appreciate the lead on Blazer Boats but I'm not finding any website for them. Are they a company I'd need to visit in person? 

 

@TnRiver46 yup that's exactly what I've seen them running out of Gaston's right there below the dam. They have quite the little operation! 

 

Thanks boys! 

 

 

 

 

[Scott F]

11 minutes ago, AJ Hauser said:

Holy moly this turned into a robust conversation - thank you guys so much for all of the feedback and input! I took the jon boat out again yesterday and as soon as I put 'er in the water, water started sputtering up underneath the deck... caught a couple nice ones skipping bushes overhanging the shoreline, but after a few hours I had to GO!

 

I might try to patch it and get another 12 months out of it - but in the meantime, I am looking to research and make a purchase. I need a size, storage and stability upgrade, but hopefully I can still get into these dirt-shallow areas...

 

@Scott F I appreciate the lead on Blazer Boats but I'm not finding any website for them. Are they a company I'd need to visit in person? 

 

Thanks boys! 

 

Blazer boats has a Facebook page. If you contact with them through there, I’m sure they can connect you with a dealer in your area. I bought mine from a dealer in Michigan who uses them because of how well they are built. There is a lot more structural support in their boats than anything I’ve seen from typical aluminum boats mainly because they are built for use on rivers.

[Susky River Rat]

@AJ Hauser I’ll be picking up my G3 CCJ tunnel 18’ with a 115/80 jet.  In a couple weeks. PM me if you would be curious in a boat that style.

[Catt]

@AJ Hauser I'm running a Alweld 1652VJT

 

16' length 52" bottom with a Tohatsu 40 hp.

 

The VJT is a VV Marsh series with a tunnel hull.

 

Yes with the  tunnel hull the motor is permanently mounted higher up off the transom. The trims tabs lifts the rear end instead of letting it squat down. 

 

I would have look but you should be able to add a console to the Invader.

[GRiver]

@AJ Hauseryes my Polar Kraft is similar the sports x model….. I have some storage but not a lot. Wish I had rod lockers.

earlier picture not yet finished here.

[AJ Hauser]

Thanks again fellas! So @Scott F I will reach out to them for sure and strike up a conversation. I had no idea so many of you guys were fishing out of all kinds of different boats. I guess I just assumed that everyone except me had a nice, fancy "bass boat"... this has been enlightening

 

@Darnold335 thank you - I'd love to see it and I will shoot you a message. I was just looking at the G3 site, they have a boatload of options (see what I did there?).

 

@Catt thank you - this whole tunnel concept is new to me so I will definitely be checking into this more. Right now I can only fish 1 person comfortably in my 14' jon. It's shaky. How stable if yours at 16' x 52"? The tunnel doesn't add any stability - does it? (And I'm looking to get something without a console, so these look like a good option.) 

 

@GRiver that is sweet - thank you for sharing. I am definitely looking for rod lockers. A livewell is optional... I'm more of a catch & release bass angler but once I'm down in Arkansas I see they have some mighty fine walleye in the reservoir... bonus sandwiches...

 

Thanks boys! Talk soon. 

 

 

[Catt]

@AJ Hauser The wider the bottom width the greater the stability. 48" bottom with is bare minimum I would go.

 

I fish a lot with my youngest son who is 6' about 280#, I do occasionally remind him, Scott stand in the center of the boat. Not that it leans a lot but just enough to irritate my already bad back.

 

Fishing in a Jon boat or a small fiberglass for that matter you have to pay attention to details. Weight distribution is more critical than in larger boats. Setting up the motor properly is also critical, less horsepower to overcome errors. 

 

[GRiver]

@AJ Hauser I use my live well for storage LOL

[AJ Hauser]

2 hours ago, Catt said:

48" bottom with is bare minimum I would go.

 

 

Yeah mine is 48" at the widest point, 36" up front... the misses has seen my work in the kayak so she doesn't care for trips in the wobbly 'ol jon boat... 

 

 

I did take my son out with me the other day (while we were looking for more leaks) and he had that thing sitting at about 45 degrees more than once. He's not even over 100 lbs yet 

 

@GRiver that is hilarious - put some ice in there and pack a killer lunch!! 

 

Thanks fellas - talk soon!

 

[king fisher]

    I know I'm going against the advice of many very knowledgeable people here, but I would not recommend a boat with a tunnel.  I ran jet boats in many rivers of Alaska guiding for 30 years, and in my opinion flat bottom is the way to go with a jet boat.  You need around 3 inches of water to run a jet boat, regardless if it has a tunnel or not.  When the tunnels first came out many lodges in Alaska bought in to the new design, and now 25 years later, none of those same lodges use tunnels.  I was so excited to get my first tunnel, being senior guide at the time, I had my pick of boats.  I  picked the brand new tunnel River Song lodge had just bought.  Half way through the season, I switched to an old beat up flat bottom, and since then, I have only used tunnels when I had no other choice.                                                                                                                               The motor will be the first thing to hit bottom in a flat bottom boat, and if you don't have the motor locked down, most of the time, all that will happen is the motor will kick up and no damage will be done.  You may pick up some rocks in the grate, and have to stop and remove them, but many times, by the time the motor goes back down, you are in deep enough water with enough speed to keep on going.  In a tunnel boat the first thing to hit is the bottom of the boat, and even thick welded boats can get a whole in the transom been there done that. Tunnel boats take longer and require deeper water to get on step.  They are less maneuverable in very tight quarters because the tunnel wont let the back of the boat slide as well.  The water in the tunnel acts like a rudder making the boat more stable, less prone to slide, which can be a good thing, but  you don't want to meet someone head on, and need to do a quick 180 in a tunnel boat, you better hang on tight, because it is very difficult to make a quick slide and change direction on a dime.  You would think carving a tight turn, would be better than the back sliding, but if you really want to turn sharp corners, being able to slide the back end around a turn, will get you around tight spots that are impossible to make if you can't get the back to slide well. 

       Another thing to consider is, don't rule out riveted boats.  Welded boats are strong, and last  forever, but are also heavy.  A heavy jet boat requires more power to get on step, requiring a bigger engine, which means you have to go faster to remain on plane.  In tight rivers, you want to be able to remain on plane at as low of a speed as possible.  Big inboard jets look cool on videos, flying down skinny rivers, at break neck speeds, but if you want to operate in the smallest water, safely being able to remain on plane at the slowest speed, is what will get you to your destination.  Another advantage to less weight is the amount of time it takes to get on step.  Many times you only have a few yards of deep water in a hole before the next shallow riffle.  If the boat is not on plane by the time you arrive at the riffle, you will come to a quick stop, with possible damage.  A jet will go in 3 inches of water on step, but takes much more than that if not on plane, and even more while trying to get on step.    Riveted boats are light because they use aluminum that is thin, and a type that can't be welded.  That is why you can't repair a leak in a riveted boat by welding.  I didn't know this until I had to help repair airplane floats.  We always had to make patches and rivet the floats, which was very difficult to do.  I would have to crawl inside the float with a bucking bar, while the mechanic would use the air gun to buck the rivets from the outside.  The mechanic was an expert welder with aluminum, and one day I asked him why he didn't just weld the leaks in the floats.  He told me that even though he was able to weld very thin aluminum, like he did with the fuel tanks, which were extremely thin, the aluminum in the floats was not the type that could be welded.  They don't use the type that can be welded, because it has to be thicker in order to get the required strength, which means heavier, which makes welded floats and impossibility for float planes.  He then laughed when I mentioned our lack of success welding aluminum boats.   Basically if you want a lighter boat get a riveted boat.

      Welded aluminum boats with tunnels, are great boats, and I am not saying they aren't.  I am simply pointing out, that spending a lot more money on an expensive welded boat with a tunnel, does not necessarily mean you will be able to get further up a river to unfished waters than with a less expensive flat bottom riveted boat.  If you don't want to use a jet boat to the extreme limit, than get a heavy welded boat.  I still wouldn't get one with a tunnel.  The tunnel only makes the boat slower, take longer to get on step, require more fuel, and doesn't give you the ability to run in shallower water than a flat bottom.  

      If you own a tunnel, and disagree with my opinion, I will ask if a tunnel boat is the only type of jet boat you have driven?  If you have thousands of hours on both flat bottoms and tunnels, then please let me drive you tunnel some day, I would like to be proven wrong and would love to find a boat that will go in less than 3 inches of water.

     I believe the best riveted boats are made by Lund, but they do not have a model, that makes a good jet boat.  I recommend a Lowe 1852 flat bottom, with a 40 horse tiller engine.  A 40 horse engine will only put out about 25 horse power with a jet on it.  Some companies now rate the horse power at the jet, so the horse power rating marked on the cowling can be as highly optimistic as 30 horse, but is still the same 40 horse engine if it had a prop.

     I realize my opinions formed by specialized situations on certain rivers in Alaska, may not apply to the water you want to fish. Others who have far different opinions, that fish in the waters you are wanting to go to, may be the people you should listen too.

     I just don't want you to think, you have to buy in to all the bells and whistles in order to access great fishing in shallow rivers.  Sometimes simpler and less expensive can be better.

[Susky River Rat]

7 hours ago, king fisher said:

if you don't have the motor locked down, most

Most boats now have hydraulic trims. Why would you not want to be able to adjust to optimal motor trim while running? 
 

8 hours ago, king fisher said:

the aluminum in the floats was not the type that could be welded

I would love to know what grade AL this was. 2000 series which is very uncommon is prone to hot cracking but, is still weldable. More than likely incorrect filler wire and gas was being used. Most common allows can be welded with a 4043 wire. 4145 or 2319 would be a better choice with a 100% argon or helium argon gas mixture. Now my guess is it had nothing to do with the grade of aluminum or thickness. You were trying to seal a box with no gas exit. This will cause the weld to blow out because all of the gas inside the box is trying to rush out that hole you are trying to weld. That is why a gas tank could be made because of the fill hole. Dirty aluminum is also a whole other animal but, with modern pulse and pulse on pulse has helped with this. There is a difference between being able to weld and knowing welding. 

 

8 hours ago, king fisher said:

would love to find a boat that will go in less than 3 inches of water.

I don’t think this will ever be possible. Every single boat even on plane displaces some amount water. 
 

 

8 hours ago, king fisher said:

You would think carving a tight turn, would be better than the back sliding, but if you really want to turn sharp corners, being able to slide the back end around a turn, will get you around tight spots that are impossible to make if you can't get the back to slide well.

This is interesting to me. I should have my tunnel by November and will report back. I know in my current jet I use lots of throttle manipulation to get it to turn the way I want it to.  I have also seen videos of people doing the 180 turn on a dime power slide in the same boat I am getting. I just have not personally used one yet.

[king fisher]

2 hours ago, Darnold335 said:

Most boats now have hydraulic trims. Why would you not want to be able to adjust to optimal motor trim while running? 

Optimal trim is nice, but when you hit the bottom, in the middle of the wilderness it is nice if the motor simply kicks up rather than tearing the jet boot off.  You are also out of luck if the boat hits bottom, and gets a whole in it.

2 hours ago, Darnold335 said:

This is interesting to me. I should have my tunnel by November and will report back. I know in my current jet I use lots of throttle manipulation to get it to turn the way I want it to.  I have also seen videos of people doing the 180 turn on a dime power slide in the same boat I am getting. I just have not personally used one yet.

It can be done, I have done it but not as easy as a flat bottom.

[Susky River Rat]

@king fisher the jet when getting optimal trim does become flatter rather then just the point sticking down all the way. This will cause the boot to dig and break rather than hit flatter and deflect. You can gain up to an inch compared to all the way down. I also have the luxury of on the fly adjusting up and possibly gaining more just have to deal with some slight cavitation.  I have drug bottom with my jet boot on plane. I broke my jet boot when I went down the wrong Shute  and there was a rock in the bottom of it I saw last minute.