Brake Settings

[the ohh face]

I picked up my first baitcaster this year, a cronarch, and im wondering what the deal is with the brake settings.  It seems to me to not make much difference no matter what size bait im using.  I keep 2 of the little plastic weights on the side in the on position at all times.  My only adjustment is with the tension knob.  Every time i touch the brake i have problems. Seems to be a garunteed backlash.  Ive messed with it quite a bit with different sized lures and the only setting that seemed to work is the one i mentioned.

Now with lighter lures i should be dialing down the brake a bit to get better casts? I think i understand the physics of how it actually works but any adjustment just seems to foul things up.  Maybe i should just leave well enough alone until im bit more experienced with this gear.

[roadwarrior]

I suggest starting with all the brakes on and cranking the tension knob down to where your lure will not free fall. As you practice and become more comfortable with the reel, begin reducing the tension by a click or half turn. Over time you will train your thumb and casting will become much easier. Don't get in a hurry backing your brakes down, that can wait.

[Deuceu72]

In addition......practice, practice, practice............It really helps when learning to use a baitcaster.......I still practice all the time, even in the winter...i set up coffee mugs around the house to practice Flippin & pitchin..........the more you get use to using the reel, the easier it will get over time..............Like RW said, start with all the brakes on and decrease as you get more comfortable.........

[the ohh face]

Ok,  thanks guys.  I guess ill just keep at it

[.ghoti.]

The Chronarch has, I believe, a six pin centrifugal braking system. Try turning on 3, every other one. Now set your spool tension knob so that your spool, when the bait is dropped from a level rod, doesn't quite stop when the bait hits the ground. You want it to run on just a bit. Start out with the tension knob tight, and gradually loosen it until you achieve this performance. You'll know you're there when you get an "almost" backlash. Now cast. Try using a sidearm motion instead of the old overhand cast. You may find that easier. And don't try for any long distances until you get a little better at it.

If you are new to the baitcast game, you may want to give this a try. Don't fill the spool all the way to the top. Leave about 1/4" of the spool empty. The reason for this is that the centrifugal braking system is speed dependent. The faster the spool is rotating the more braking force is applied. A partially empty spool will spin faster than a full one, giving you a little more help with line control. Keep this fact in mind. At low settings, your brakes are not doing much at the end of the cast, when the spool rotation is at it's slowest. You'll need your thumb then.

Start training yourself now to apply your thumb to the spool and not the line. This is also easier to learn if the spool is not completely full. You can practice this while you're watching the game. Keep the rod tip up, the spool tension very low, and drop a sinker at your feet. Feather it down using your thumb on the side of the spool. It will quickly become second nature. Don't do this with a crankbait. The womenfolk tend to get upset when you hook the cat.

Good luck,

GK

ps, you might try some nice, limp line, like Trilene XL to start with. It's quite a bit more forgiving than some of the stiffer lines line XT or Big Game or flourocarbon. It will be a bit easier to learn with.

Cheers

[Bud]

Just go to reelmach web site he has it all layed out for you.  Just follow his advice.