POWER PRO 20LB - PROBLEM

[GAMEOVER]

Power Pro is one of the best braids on the market, id check your guides out for any sharp or exposed edges. I had this problem a few years back with a Shimano rod. It would strip away line little by little til adventually it broke. Im a firm believer in the Palomer knot even over the uni. I have never in my life had my line snap at the knot using one and its a must knot imo for braided line lovers, you also might want to give Sufix Performance Braid a try in moss green. Ive used Sufix 20lb test line for Salmon, Pike, Steelhead, LM/SMBass, and even Musky here in Michigan. I have never broke this line once but then again I havent used it for a super long time.

[BORDERBASSER]

Let me add my two cents or three...

First off I am a strong believer in power pro as I have been using it almost exclusively for the last 6 years. I have tried others, (due mostly to lack of availablity of powerpro) and have always seemed to prefer the power pro.  Any problems I have ever had with it were inherent in the other brands and always due to "operator error". However, I won't sit here and tell you that your problems were not due to a defective or counterfeit spool, which unfortunately can happen with nearly any product we purchase today.

 I will say that power pro is coated.  Exactly what the coating is for, I can't remember, but the coating will wear off.  This is evident right out of the box if you ever pinched the line in front of the line guide pawl to keep tension while re-spooling. It will leave the coating on your fingers.  Over time, this coating will wear off, and the line will turn white.  It will eventually happen due to use.  I have seen no major adverse affects from this.  Simply put, the lack of color alone is in no way an indication that your line is defective or worn out.  If you wish, you can take a permanent marker in the color of your choice and color the last several feet of the line if the color bothers you.  I usually prefer black  However like was mentioned above, the line will not absorb the ink and essentialy becomes another coating that must be reaplied with time and use.  Some lines like Spiderwire will maintain their color a little better, but still fade out a little with use.  I personally do not like Spiderwire because I had more problems with it burying up in the spool.

As far as breakage is concerned, I have broken off...several times.  It happens. How often it happens is entirely up to you, how observant you are, and how often you re-tie (barred any defective line, which I'm sure exists, but have personaly yet to see it). I will say that I have fished several days, through the thick stuff catching good fish and had not had any break-offs...but then it has also usually been under those circumstances that it did break...usually on the hook-set though. Frayed line is a killer.

As far as knots go, I can not stress to you enough how important your knot is.  Mainly because power pro (and all other braids I've tried) is very slick and an inferior knot WILL slip.  Power pro WILL NOT "grip" itself like mono.  I have found that the palomar knot has been the most efective, but beware of some of the variations.  I once tried running the tag through the loop as well as the bait, based on a recomendation from a buddy, but that variation proved to be inferior to the original palomar and was very prone to slipping.  Also, make sure that when you secure the knot down, that you pull on both ends...together and sperately.  I know that sounds like a given, but if you don't pull on the tag especially hard, the knot will not seat properly.  And on that note always trim the tag just a little long, pull on the main line HARD, and watch to see if your tag doesn't shorten a little on you. Then you can trim a little more if needed, but I always leave a little more tag with braid than I do with mono, simply because you can not effectively recreate with your hands the kind of force that is put on that knot like a strong hook-set can on a 5lb+ fish (or stump, LOL) on a MH or H rod.

Another problem that was mentioned earlier which I have had happen to me several times, is the knot comes out of the joint in the hook eye.  This is due to the rather small diameter of the line.  The most effective solution I've found (other than changing brands of hooks) is tie a knot or two to the hook eye like normal, and then cut your line just above the knot leaving the knot intact on the eye. Then slide the knot or knots down to the joint, effectively "stopping up" the joint and retie as usual.  Another thing that will help is to check your knot occasionaly and reposition as necessary and pull on the line to keep the knot tight.  The knot will loosen up a bit and tend to slide around.  Or, as mentioned above ( I think?), put a drop of super glue on the knot.

Just remember, that "super" lines can be an overstatement.  You cannot just spool up, tie on and forget.  I don't care what brand you use.  If you do, you are heading for disapointment.  Braid is also by no means better than mono or flourocarbon, just better under certain circumstances where the utmost sensitivity and abraison resistance is required.  Hope this helps.

TJ

[floridabassboy]

Ive never heard conterfit line . This is becoming a countierfit world

[Pa Angler]

Let me add my two cents or three...

First off I am a strong believer in power pro as I have been using it almost exclusively for the last 6 years. I have tried others, (due mostly to lack of availablity of powerpro) and have always seemed to prefer the power pro. Any problems I have ever had with it were inherent in the other brands and always due to "operator error". However, I won't sit here and tell you that your problems were not due to a defective or counterfeit spool, which unfortunately can happen with nearly any product we purchase today.

I will say that power pro is coated. Exactly what the coating is for, I can't remember, but the coating will wear off. This is evident right out of the box if you ever pinched the line in front of the line guide pawl to keep tension while re-spooling. It will leave the coating on your fingers. Over time, this coating will wear off, and the line will turn white. It will eventually happen due to use. I have seen no major adverse affects from this. Simply put, the lack of color alone is in no way an indication that your line is defective or worn out. If you wish, you can take a permanent marker in the color of your choice and color the last several feet of the line if the color bothers you. I usually prefer black However like was mentioned above, the line will not absorb the ink and essentialy becomes another coating that must be reaplied with time and use. Some lines like Spiderwire will maintain their color a little better, but still fade out a little with use. I personally do not like Spiderwire because I had more problems with it burying up in the spool.

As far as breakage is concerned, I have broken off...several times. It happens. How often it happens is entirely up to you, how observant you are, and how often you re-tie (barred any defective line, which I'm sure exists, but have personaly yet to see it). I will say that I have fished several days, through the thick stuff catching good fish and had not had any break-offs...but then it has also usually been under those circumstances that it did break...usually on the hook-set though. Frayed line is a killer.

As far as knots go, I can not stress to you enough how important your knot is. Mainly because power pro (and all other braids I've tried) is very slick and an inferior knot WILL slip. Power pro WILL NOT "grip" itself like mono. I have found that the palomar knot has been the most efective, but beware of some of the variations. I once tried running the tag through the loop as well as the bait, based on a recomendation from a buddy, but that variation proved to be inferior to the original palomar and was very prone to slipping. Also, make sure that when you secure the knot down, that you pull on both ends...together and sperately. I know that sounds like a given, but if you don't pull on the tag especially hard, the knot will not seat properly. And on that note always trim the tag just a little long, pull on the main line HARD, and watch to see if your tag doesn't shorten a little on you. Then you can trim a little more if needed, but I always leave a little more tag with braid than I do with mono, simply because you can not effectively recreate with your hands the kind of force that is put on that knot like a strong hook-set can on a 5lb+ fish (or stump, LOL) on a MH or H rod.

Another problem that was mentioned earlier which I have had happen to me several times, is the knot comes out of the joint in the hook eye. This is due to the rather small diameter of the line. The most effective solution I've found (other than changing brands of hooks) is tie a knot or two to the hook eye like normal, and then cut your line just above the knot leaving the knot intact on the eye. Then slide the knot or knots down to the joint, effectively "stopping up" the joint and retie as usual. Another thing that will help is to check your knot occasionaly and reposition as necessary and pull on the line to keep the knot tight. The knot will loosen up a bit and tend to slide around. Or, as mentioned above ( I think?), put a drop of super glue on the knot.

Just remember, that "super" lines can be an overstatement. You cannot just spool up, tie on and forget. I don't care what brand you use. If you do, you are heading for disapointment. Braid is also by no means better than mono or flourocarbon, just better under certain circumstances where the utmost sensitivity and abraison resistance is required. Hope this helps.

TJ

Excellent post, It addresses the issues that this subject has created hopefully we all can get something from it.

Chow

[sodaksker]

Island basser. I had the same problem with some 20# power pro earlier this year, breaking right at the knot on hookset and I use the palomar knot. It happened twice, within an hour of fishing. I noticed that the line had started to look more faded in color, so I just respooled and end of problem. I will try some other brands when I run out of power pro. I notice that it tends to fray a lot just above the knot, It can be fixed with retying but, it seems to fray quite quickly especially around the rocks. I will take dodgeguys advice and try suffix.

[island bassin]

Many thanks to all of you. I used palomat knot with the same line last weekend and had no problems whatsoever. of course , the bass i cought were aroung 2lbs each

[vtbassin]

There is though a possibility that the first one,which i didn't see was one of the monster pikeperchs which there are alot in this reservoir.

Big pike will cut braid very quickly with those sharp teeth they have  And the pike I have met love spinnerbaits.  You may not have a line problem at all.  Just stop letting those big pike swollow your baits : and your problem may dissapear.  Once you figure out just how to do that please let us know because I would love to stop feeding those big toothy critters my baits ;D ;D

[RoLo]

There is though a possibility that the first one,which i didn't see was one of the monster pikeperchs which there are alot in this reservoir.

Excellent point, I forgot about pike.

Shall we say, instant line-abrasion ;D

As for knots, I use nothing but a 'uniknot' and I'm still waiting for my first negative incident (not going to happen).

Further, the uni-knot may be used for tying direct to a plug with 3 treble hooks.

Roger

[CyBasser]

Hi there,

The pike-perch that island-bassin is referring to in his posts are not pike. They are the European species of Walleye, known as pike-perch or zander (sandre in French). They do have some sharp teeth, and they actually grow much bigger than the American Walleye, although they look pretty similar - the walleye is a bit darker, otherwise it would be hard to note other differences (scale counts etc). They are usually no problem with line, I haven't heard anybody having a line cut through their teeth, whether mono or braid, and they are often caught by bass fishermen over here.

Pike would probably be another story altogether, but they wouldn't be the problem in island-bassin's problem as we don't have them here!