Bullet Weights Over 1/4oz?

[Drawdown]

I’ve fished a lot with 1/8oz and 3/16oz lead bullet weights, and have gotten a decent feel for when I want one over the other. Very recently bought some 1/4oz and like how they play with beaver style baits, though I have very limited experience with those, too.

 

Wondering what the principal advantages of getting some 3/8oz or 5/16oz weights would be…but I have two questions:

 

1. at what weight do you definitely switch from lead to tungsten?

 

2. at what weight is the purpose of the weight switch from being multi-purpose to more specialized, like for “pitching” or “deep water” applications? I’m inclined to see 1/2-5/8oz as solidly falling in this category, since I’m used to throwing skirted jigs this weight. But am open to reconsider.

[Tennessee Boy]

I’m fishing 1/4 oz or less 80% of the time.   I go heavier when I want a faster rate of fall which they sometimes want, when I want to hop the bait along the bottom at a faster rate,  or when wind or current require more weight.    I don’t think I’ve thrown heavier than 5/16 oz on a Texas rig in the last 10 years.  

[MediumMouthBass]

Some people use tungsten weights for everything because they like how sensitive it is, but if you have a good rod and use braided line lead works good enough. I personally dont use tungsten in the lighter weights because of its higher costs, however i will use tungsten when im punching 1/2oz or heavier through grass/lily pads (only because it has a much smaller profile then the lead alternative).

Any weight from 1/8-3/8oz is very multi purpose, with 1/16oz or lighter being for very shallow water or a extremely slow fall. and 1/2oz or above for fishing deep waters or flipping/pitching for most lakes and ponds. 3/4oz and above for punching heavy grass lakes or if your bass just like a super fast rate of fall.

[WRB]

What do you consider “deep water”?

Line type and diameter directly impacts ROF or rate of fall the bullet weight provides soft plastics. The shape of the soft plastic appendages etc affects ROF, difficult to isolate the weight.

Where I fish 90% of my bullet weight T-rigged worms is 3/16 oz using worms  6” to 9” to depths about 20’. I use painted lead, painted brass and plain tungsten. Only use tungsten for 3/8 oz because prefer the size and use it in the wind.

Deep then 20’ I use drop shot, slip shot or jigs.

Tom

[TnRiver46]

I only use heavier than 1/4 oz for Carolina rig I think. Then again I’ve got a medicine bottle full of bullet sinkers and I really don’t know what exact weight they all are so I’m guessing. I have used some heavier looking ones for T rigs in the fall when our current is absolutely raging with beavers and speed worms. When they are dropping the flood storage lakes for winter, all that volume comes by fast and 1/4 oz gets swept away 

[Pat Brown]

I actually go the opposite of most folks.  I prefer 3/8 oz and up in general, rarely going for the lighter weights.

 

Why?

 

I'm generally trying to get a reaction strike with the rate of fall in clearer water and I like to force them to make a decision fast.  I also like to impart hops and the hopping action is way more convincing with heavier weights.

 

Beyond that, I get most of my bites that aren't on the fall, on the bottom so I'm trying to get my bait down to where it needs to be to get bit.

 

Works well enough for me although I used to use lighter weights a lot more often back when I felt like it mattered.

 

If the weight needs to be less than 1/4 oz on the sinker, I'll throw a weightless senko or a small shaky head or something like that.

[Catt]

Flipping, Pitching, & casting Texas Rigs my weight selection is 1/16 - 1/2 oz. Probably 90% is 1/8, 3/16, & 1/4 oz. All tungsten 

 

Why?

Rate Of Fall

 

I'll throw those 3 from dirt shallow out 25'.

 

Punching is a whole set of different rules!

[Drawdown]

9 hours ago, WRB said:

What do you consider “deep water”?

Anything over 20’, but somewhere over 15’ is when I start to wonder if heavier weight would shine better (even assuming there isn’t strong current, like is often found against a bluff wall—if there is, I feel at least 1/2oz is necessary to have any sense of control over where your bait is presenting after the cast).

 

Since you mention line diameter: I’ll summarize what I’ve been throwing with the tackle I have:

 

For Texas rigs, I’m typically using medium action spinning rods, 20lb braid to 8lb fluoro. This summer I’m usually throwing a 6-8” worm, a baby brush hog, or sometimes even a 6” lizard. In the spring, I really like to throw craws on 1/8 or 3/16ths bullet weights.

 

On MH casting gear (BPS rods rated 3/8-1 1/2oz) I have either 40lb braid to 17lb fluoro, or straight 14lb fluoro. If I’m not throwing topwater or hard baits on these, I tend to pick moving presentations (UV Speed Worm), though I am also experimenting with somewhat suspended ones (free rig, 1/4oz bullet + NetBait Dagger). 

[Mobasser]

I rarely if ever use over 1/4 oz. I like 1/16, or 1/8 oz most of the time. I switched to mostly tungsten two years ago, but still use lead weights also. In the very lightest weights, I can't see much difference, other than the weight sizes.

[Captain Phil]

9 hours ago, TnRiver46 said:

Then again I’ve got a medicine bottle full of bullet sinkers and I really don’t know what exact weight they all are so I’m guessing.

 

Weights are tools, you should use the right tool for the job.  When fishing a Texas rig, I generally go with 1/8 oz. bullet weights.  I don't think the material the weight is made of is significant.  If the bottom is dirty, I may go to 1/16 oz.  If it's shallow and not too weedy, I may go with no weight at all.  Anything deeper than 6 feet, I use 3/8 oz.  That weight size works great down steep banks.   I use 1 oz. weights for Carolina Rigs, but that is for another reason.  All my heavier weights are used for flipping and pitching.  The majority of the time, I use 5/16 oz. or 3/8 oz. weights pegged to the lure with a bobber stop.  In heavy hydrilla, I have used 3/4 oz.  I fish the openings and shake the lure through.  I believe anything heavier than that gets fewer bites.

[scaleface]

I use 1/4 or 5/16 most of the time. I cant pitch effectively with anything lighter.

[Susky River Rat]

I lose to much and am to cheap for tungsten. No other reason.

[Mike L]

I use tungsten weights for everything. 

For the majority of t rigged plastics I rarely go above 1/4 as the vast majority of the waters I fish is less than 10ft deep averaging closer to 4-5. 
The 1/4 gives me the right rof for reaction bites and bottom hugging. 
 

For moving swim baits it’s almost aways a 3/16. 
 

As @Catt said, for punching and also for pitching in heavy anything all rules are off. For those I’ll start at 3/4 min up to 1 1/2 with the occasional 2 depending on what’s on top. 
 

 

Mike

[Bird]

90% of the time it's 1/8 tungsten throwing 5" finesse worms.

The other 10% is split shot 1/8 lead.

 

All my craw imitators are thrown on 1/8 Shakyhead.

Don't think I own anything over 1/4.

 

[Str8BraidPowa]

I fish the 1/8 to 1/4 oz on standard lakes, however I fish a few tidal rivers. When tide is rolling I tend to use 3/8 or 1/2 oz even up shallow due to the water speed. I have even gone up to 3/4 oz when fishing large lizards or 12" worms to get them to fall in the high speed current. As others have said there is a time and place for everything. Good luck out there.

[casts_by_fly]

I throw tungsten for everything, probably for different reasons than others.  I didn't want to deal with the extra space lead takes up in the kayak.  So i picked up a set of tungsten from 1/8-3/4 that fit into a 3x5x1/2" plastic box and tuck neatly into a side cutout in the boat which they never leave.  I don't have to carry them in my bag or take them out of the boat.

 

For weight, most of the time I'm throwing a 3/8 because I'm pitching a beaver into weeds and pads.  Its like punching 'light' most of the time.  Occasionally I'll need to up to a half for that.  If I'm just throwing a light texas rigged bait then I'm mostly throwing 1/4, sometimes 1/8.  A 1/4 oz tungsten is more than enough to fish 15' on light braid (which is what I'm throwing) for that.  

[thediscochef]

i throw 3/8 tungsten exclusively for T-rigging, 1/2 for carolina rigging. the equivalent lead is way too big and I don't like the slow fall of lesser weights except in cold cold water. I also use a clear glass bead for t rigging (thank you, Josh Sikes!). I didn't ever catch anything on a T-rig before I added the beads, then promptly caught two 7-1s in a week after adding it. I use a lot of action and bottom contact so lighter weights aren't the right tool unless I'm throwing a trick worm on. Plus I don't feel as bad about snapping off tungsten, it costs me more but pollutes less. Either is incentive to get good at fishing lol

[Darth-Baiter]

I'm full of patience when I am waiting for a bait to sink.  I think fish bite on the drop, mostly for me.

 

I use 1/8th most times, and sometimes even go less.  I think the bait undulates better when it drops slowly, versus being stretched out on a faster drop.

 

I have heavier weights that I use when the current washes my bait to and fro.  

[Drawdown]

13 minutes ago, Darth-Baiter said:

I'm full of patience when I am waiting for a bait to sink.  I think fish bite on the drop, mostly for me.

 

I use 1/8th most times, and sometimes even go less.  I think the bait undulates better when it drops slowly, versus being stretched out on a faster drop.

 

I have heavier weights that I use when the current washes my bait to and fro.  

In principle I agree; yet with having the worst sensitivity on the drop, it gives me less confidence than finessing the bait very slowly on the retrieve after it has reached bottom.

[Darth-Baiter]

@Drawdown  I get it.

 

I watch my line like a hawk.  and I bought a REALLY good rod.  if you asked me what the bite felt like, I probably can't describe anything except the hard thumps.  the rest are so sublime.  but feel it.  I find the fish seem to hold the bait long enough for my next "hop".  which is great because I need no slack for the hookset.

[Columbia Craw]

I agree with everything already stated.

 

I use tungsten exclusively.  I select the weight based on criteria in this order:

 

Cover penetration.

Rate of fall.

Ability to maintain  bottom contact.

 

The rate of fall effects the lure action or inaction and, in some cases the need to get deep quicker.  As Catt said, punching has it’s own set of rules.

[PaulVE64]

River fishing for me requires 1/16 - 3/16 wts.

All lead

[Drawdown]

4 hours ago, Darth-Baiter said:

@Drawdown  I get it.

 

I watch my line like a hawk.  and I bought a REALLY good rod.  if you asked me what the bite felt like, I probably can't describe anything except the hard thumps.  the rest are so sublime.  but feel it.  I find the fish seem to hold the bait long enough for my next "hop".  which is great because I need no slack for the hookset.

I know what you mean about “Jedi-sensing” the strike, and got quite good at it with my SLX (which I know isn’t a REALLY good rod; but a solid one)—but recently fishing in a stump-ridden area where I kept setting the hook into snags shook my confidence. Now I’m starting to leave hooksets on the table when I probably shouldn’t.

 

I just need to buy a pile of painted lead sinkers and quit caring, I guess. If I set the hook on a snag, be okay if it happens until I get better at discernment.

[PaulVE64]

When I first got back into fishing I dragged a 1/4 oz jig around for days on end using an old fiberglass rod. When I bought a StC Avid I was blown away by the sensitivity. I swear its like discovering jedi skilz 

[papajoe222]

When I switched from mono for bottom contact baits, I also switched to lighter weights. I only use heavier 5/16oz.+ under windy conditions, or when I want a faster fall rate.  There are time, even in water under 10ft. deep, when a fast fall rate will produce.

I use tungsten in combination with fluoro or braid to increase what I feel. For heavier weights, I use brass for C-rigs and lead for punching.