Adventures in Boat Rebuilding - Or Why did I buy this thing?

[OilfieldCowboy]

In reading through the boat forum I have noticed the lack of electrical info and since I am going to be diving into refitting the cheap boat I just picked up I might as well try and document things for people in the future. So without further ado I shall start.

 

Chapter 1 - Previous Owners Always Suck

I have found through the years of only buying things used that the universal truth is that Previous Owners always suck. When they make compromise decisions, it is always the opposite direction than you as the current owner would make. And with that said; WIRE NUTS HAVE NO PLACE ON ANYTHING THAT ISN’T RESIDENTIAL WIRING!  The number of times I have found them in my vehicles, ATV’s, and now this boat really angers me.

 

State of my bilge and live wells pumps currently ?:

The lovely disaster of a house battery:

 

[OilfieldCowboy]

Chapter 1 Continued

The switch panel with broken switches and oversized fuses:

 

I found where it seems to be taking on water, old transducer mount holes they covered in bondo 

 

now covered in starboard and 3M 5200

 

to be continued…

[casts_by_fly]

keep us posted as you go.  My ambition is to do a similar project myself to build the perfect boat for my needs.  A 16' lund would be high on my list for starting platform.

[TnRiver46]

Love a boat rebuild! 

[Darth-Baiter]

there is a similar boat on my block.  it hasnt moved in the 6 years i lived in my house.

 

i want to go and knock on the door, but not yet.  i need another house with room for boat storage.  i would love to take on a project like this.  at my own pace and budget.  it's not like a car project where you still need it to get to work. 

[gim]

@MN Fisher might be able to help here.  He turned an old alumacraft into a nice little bass rig for just over $3 grand.

[MN Fisher]

Pics to show starting and (almost) ending point

 

I didn't use 5200 anywhere to seal - I used JB Weld Steel Reinforced Epoxy.

[OilfieldCowboy]

3 hours ago, casts_by_fly said:

keep us posted as you go.  My ambition is to do a similar project myself to build the perfect boat for my needs.  A 16' lund would be high on my list for starting platform.

will do. Right now I am in planning and acquisition phase for electrical. Lund is by far my preferred hull since I’ll never find a weldcraft or alumaweld smaller than 20 ft.
 

1 hour ago, gimruis said:

@MN Fisher might be able to help here.  He turned an old alumacraft into a nice little bass rig for just over $3 grand.

I’m already north of $3,00 just in fish finder and downrigger. This build doesn’t have a budget, more so a directive to not approach new cost.

 

1 hour ago, MN Fisher said:

I didn't use 5200 anywhere to seal - I used JB Weld Steel Reinforced Epoxy.

I tend to go overboard on everything. Currently have a good stock of 5200 that will be put to use once I strip the flex seal the previous owner applied to the exterior of the hull. That coupled with self sealing blind rivets should fix it up.

[TnRiver46]

Good call, flex seal is no bueno 

[WRB]

3M 5200 is excellent marine sealer for through hull fasteners, it’s not intended to be a structural epoxy.

Remember side mounted bench seats in aluminum boats like Lund or AlumaCraft can weaken the free board sides of the hull without adding brackets to reinforce the side.  

No automotive batteries or electrical terminals, use marine grade products to avoid corrosion.

The price drivers are the outboard engine, TM and sonar units. The trailer can also get pricey with new hubs, wheels, tires and corrosion repairs. Your labor is donated so do it right the 1st time.

Good luck.

Tom

 

[airshot]

Been a boat owner for over 60 years...your take on previous owners is pretty close !!  I have to admit, I have slipped a few no no's in myself, over the years.  To be honest, I have had greater sucess with wire nuts than I have with crimp connectors,  but I do seal them with goop !!  Most electricians are probably gritting there teeth about now....but never had one fail...but numerous crimp failures!!  Looking forward to your resto and thanks for the pics !!  Good luck !!

[OilfieldCowboy]

35 minutes ago, WRB said:

3M 5200 is excellent marine sealer for through hull fasteners, it’s not intended to be a structural epoxy.

Remember side mounted bench seats in aluminum boats like Lund or AlumaCraft can weaken the free board sides of the hull without adding brackets to reinforce the side.  

No automotive batteries or electrical terminals, use marine grade products to avoid corrosion.

The price drivers are the outboard engine, TM and sonar units. The trailer can also get pricey with new hubs, wheels, tires and corrosion repairs. Your labor is donated so do it right the 1st time.

Good luck.

Tom

 

Good points, thank you for the response. 5200 is only in my plans as a sealant. Everything is going to either be through bolted or riveted.

 

Tinned marine wire and connectors are already planned. Have made that mistake before. Planning on marine AGM batteries so I wont ever have to deal with offgassing, associated corrosion, or topping up with distilled water.

 

The outboard runs, new water pump arrived at the dealer today so that will be rebuilt Friday. Roller bunks, new keel rollers, new jack, and other parts have already been delivered, just trying to figure out how to rig this boat off of the trailer long enough for the swap out.

21 minutes ago, airshot said:

 To be honest, I have had greater sucess with wire nuts than I have with crimp connectors,  but I do seal them with goop !!

It is all about the correct tool for the job. I have hydraulic crimpers for heavier gauge terminals and ratcheting for smaller. The other end of the equation is dual wall heat shrink to help with strain relief. If I feel like going above and beyond (which is regularly) I crimp, solder with silver bearing solder, then adhesive lined heat shrink.

[MN Fisher]

8 minutes ago, OilfieldCowboy said:

then adhesive lined heat shrink.

I use the butt connectors with the adhesive heat shrink as a unit when I'm connecting main-run to end-item like lights, pumps, etc.

 

Only wire I'll ever use in a boat is Ancor Marine Grade.

[OilfieldCowboy]

3 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

I use the butt connectors with the adhesive heat shrink as a unit when I'm connecting main-run to end-item like lights, pumps, etc.

 

Only wire I'll ever use in a boat is Ancor Marine Grade.

I use those crimp connectors with heat shrink jacket when I’m in a hurry. Much prefer bare terminals and my own heat shrink so I can generally get a better crimp. And the size/type terminal I want.

 

The problem I’m having right now is finding Ancor marine wire by the foot locally in the AWG I need. I don’t need a 25ft spool of black and yellow 4 gauge, or 8 gauge for the fuse panel feed. Going to have to order from West Marine and have it shipped.

[MN Fisher]

^ Guess I'm lucky - there's a West Marine less than 30 minutes from me. I get most of my marine supplies there...what I don't order from T-H Marine anyway.

[airshot]

When you replaced your rollers, hope you went with the yellow/ orange colored ones and not the black rubber ones.  I switched years ago and was a great move, they also roll much better and never had to replace one.   Rubber never lasted me more than two years.  

[gim]

6 minutes ago, airshot said:

When you replaced your rollers, hope you went with the yellow/ orange colored ones and not the black rubber ones.  I switched years ago and was a great move, they also roll much better and never had to replace one.   Rubber never lasted me more than two years.  

I just replaced my front rubber black bow roller this spring with a more durable yellow poly one.

 

The factory black one lasted about 2 years each time I replaced it, just as you stated.