Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Get the popcorn out, folks! 

 

I prefer mono as I don't care for how fluoro handles.

 

But I'm sure I'm doing something wrong and I'm missing tons of fish because I use stretchy mono that doesn't sink and fish can see. 

  • Like 5
  • Haha 4
Posted

I'm with @JMac603! I don't like floro either, got rid of it. Other than one rod with braid on it, I'm 100% mono. That rod will be mono to as soon as it's time to swap out the braid. Mono with a palomar has served me well for decades. 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

I've never encountered an issue specifically pertaining to knots with either one.

  • Like 7
  • Super User
Posted

Yo Zuri hybrid is very good and will keep you from being flamed by either side. Me? I enjoy poking the bear in the eye with a stick. Braid > clear plastic sissy lines. ?

  • Like 4
  • Haha 3
  • Sad 1
  • Super User
Posted

I use both and the only difference I've really noticed is the stretch.

 

Out today - my wacky spinning rig is a President XT-30 loaded with 8# InvizX. Sensitive as all get out, pulled through weeds without an issue, and the knot stayed tight. Just have to use a knot that doesn't pinch the line too much.

  • Super User
Posted

I’ve used both.  I never noticed a difference in knot strength.  I have noticed a difference in fish caught.  Fluorocarbon way out performs mono in our Missouri waters.

  • Like 2
Posted

I wonder sometimes if people’s issues with knots were from early fluoro. Like 20 years ago, some early fc had a knot failure and they have trumpeted poor knot strength ever since. 
 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Simple answer is same diameter mono vs FC mono has stronger knot strength and abrasion resistance.

Monofilament line is made basically from Nylon and been around since the 1950’s. One knot was popular for mono line a variation of the clinch knot. In the 1980’s the Palomar knot became popular, both offer 100% knot strength performance.

Around the millennium 2000 Fluorocarbon became available on filler spools, prior to that it was only available as leader line.

FC line has poor knot strength compared to mono and wars began with dozens of different knots being created to solve the knot failure issues that continue as I write this.

If you factor in FC having 80% knot strength and choose your line accordingly; 1 size larger # test then mono then you solve the knot issue using standard knots popular with mono.

Tom

 

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

As a mainline on casting gear, knots using 10, 12, 15, 17, 22, 20 & 25 lb 

FC have not been a problem for me.

But I have had zero success adding lengths of FC leader that is lighter than 8 lb to a Light braid mainline.

While I do not use it a ton, the few times I'm looking to go down to 4 or 6/b leader,

for bass fishing, I'll avoid using FC like the plague.  

Maxima Ultragreen premium monofilament in 4, 5 & 6lb gets it done for me.

Below in my FC knot failure face

large.252507881_Spazface.jpg.a39705b4f915e2276678a0b08965f7a3.jpg

A-Jay

 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I dont like mono or fluoro for most bass fishing applications, i will use mono for panfish/trout setups (4lb-6lb) and also Big Game for swimbaits (20lb-30lb). Mono is just too stretchy and not sensitive enough, fluoro is less stretchy and more sensitive, so if its the opposite of mono it should be great right? Not for me, i had a reel or 2 with all fluoro on them awhile ago and really didnt like it, that being said i really like fluoro only used as a leader with braid as the mainline. But using just fluoro, no. In the past year i bought Yo Zuri Hybrid line to try because of how many recommendations it has, and it is amazing, it has everything i like about both lines and combines them. I bought a huge stockpile of it varying from 4lb-15lb and inbetween, im using it on most of my baitcasting combos and so far its great. Except for on spinning reels in the lighter lb lines, it seems to have the same stiffness/coily mess of fluoro. So im going to just use braid to fluoro for that. For baitcasting reels tho, this line is great for fishing crankbaits, topwater, texas rigs, flipping/pitching. And its been holding up great to bigger fish and the rough bottoms of the lakes i fish.

  • Super User
Posted
28 minutes ago, Cbump said:

I wonder sometimes if people’s issues with knots were from early fluoro. Like 20 years ago, some early fc had a knot failure and they have trumpeted poor knot strength ever since. 
 

Started using Sunline Shooter FC in the early 90’s, the line hasn’t changed it’s the same today.

99% of bass anglers use line 2X to 3X stronger then needed to catch the average size 3 lb bass. I would go as far as saying a 3# bass don’t break the line, the angler does.

Where I fish you can’t get strikes using mono or FC over .012D using jigs and worms during daytime unless using big swimbaits. Why? Hundreds of hours fishing dictate if I want to catch big bass on jigs .012D is as large diameter that works.

10# to:12# mono, copoly or FC knot strength becomes critical. Night or low light line diameter isn’t a major issues.

When setting the hook into bass the weigh more then the line test strength I can’t afford a possible 20% knot strength lose.

Tom

 

  • Like 1
  • Global Moderator
Posted

A properly chosen and correctly tied knot on any fishing line will hold just fine. 
 

I use flouro for everything except 3 techniques and opposed to a few fellow  members, have never had a knot fail…ever. 

A point tho, you get what you pay for when buying flouro. 
I use all 2 Sunline products from 12# to 20# 

 

Don’t use mono for anything, ever

 

 

 

 

 

Mike

 

 

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

The short answer these days is you simply can’t batch all lines together as “mono” and “fluoro” and make blanket statements. Fluoro technology has improved enough these days that it is very easy to find fluoro that has better knot strength and better abrasion resistance than many “monos”, and the reverse is also true.
 

You also have to make sure when comparing line types that you are looking at “wet” test results, as fluoro absorbs very little if any moisture (depending on purity/formulation), and therefore many of its properties change very little between wet and dry states.  Meanwhile, most all nylon lines absorb quite a bit of moisture, relatively speaking. After doing so, tensile strength weakens considerably, as does abrasion resistance, while elasticity increases a bunch. 

  • Like 3
  • Super User
Posted

Haven't used mono in over 20 years, maybe longer.

Straight braid and braid to flouro leader is all I throw.

Knot strength and sensitivity favor braid. Imo

That said, lines have come a long ways since the days of Stren. 

  • Super User
Posted

My opinion on this topic is that I have no opinion. 

 

Come by, say hello to me, the opinionless shad ??

  • Haha 3
Posted

The problem I have with FC even Yo Zuri hybrid is not knots breaking  but breaks in the spool.  I do use Berkely Fluroshield though if I can get it on sale. 

  • Super User
Posted

I don’t use fluorocarbon outside of spinning rod leaders. I’ve tried it and not seen the benefit. Premium mono is a great thing. If you want no stretch then go to braid.

 

if I was pitching heavy wood all the time

then maybe heavy fluoro is the answer. But I fish grass primarily up here with lots of rock and a little bit of wood. I fish moving baits mostly so a little stretch is no biggie. I love topwaters so sinking line doesn’t help. 

  • Super User
Posted

SunLine, XL, McCoy, Stren and Big Game mono I don’t have issue with these. 
 

I have a MH Slop setup with braid on it. About as far as I go on that limb. 

  • Like 1
Posted

It still amazes me all the knot failures. If you properly tie a San Diego jam (just as an example not saying this is the best so relax) on either mono or fluoro you will be just fine. 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
21 minutes ago, Pogues2300 said:

just as an example not saying this is the best so relax

Can’t help it. Mad. So mad right now 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
  • Global Moderator
Posted
24 minutes ago, Pogues2300 said:

It still amazes me all the knot failures. If you properly tie a San Diego jam (just as an example not saying this is the best so relax) on either mono or fluoro you will be just fine. 


Ditto

I just don’t get it either 

 

 

 

 

Mike

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

Of all the thing I dislike about fluorocarbon knot strength isn't one of them.

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

Have used mono for years. I tried flouro and didn't really like it. I found Co poly is a good middle of the road. And I still use mono on some reels too.

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.


  • Outboard Engine

    Fishing lures

    fishing forum

    fishing forum

    fishing tackle

    fishing

    fishing

    fishing

    bass fish

    fish for bass



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.