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Posted

I can't ever seem to get my Garmin Vivid Striker 4cv dialed in to where i want. It's been several years. I just go with whatever it says and do my best. Lately I'm noticing I never ever see arches anymore even when my kayak is moving 3 to 4 mph. I just get these vertical lines and not sure if that represents large fish or what it's telling me. I fool with the gain, seems to always go to Auto mode when I power it off/on, then lower the gain to take out a lot of clutter I always get. Is there any setting that might be reducing arches and producing more vertical lines?

 

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and more info...This is with the GT20 transducer mounted in a transducer well underneath the kayak and the CHIRP 200kHz freq.

  • Super User
Posted
20 minutes ago, wasabi_VA said:

Is there any setting that might be reducing arches and producing more vertical lines?


See if you can manually adjust scroll speed - turn it up faster if you can. That will “stretch out” the readings and should help arching. You might also try switching to 83/200 kHz dual transducer freq. if that’s an option on your unit. On some models that makes a big difference in arch readings due to the influence of the wider cone angle input.

  • Super User
Posted

Maybe you are shallow enough so the boat causes the fish to move away from you.

  • Super User
Posted

Scroll speed. Crank it up and play with speeds until you find what you like. I don’t know that unit but on my humminbird in the kayak I keep it at 5-6 out of 6. 

Posted

I'll need to check but pretty sure I have it set to Auto Scroll. Even though I'm in a slow moving kayak I still recall getting arches when I had my boat and was going at trolling motor speeds. So maybe this is the Auto-Scroll doing it?

Posted

I changed from Auto-Scroll to medium and it seemed to help some. Still no arches and now I'm getting these weird lines. At first I thought it meant a fish was swimming upwards but there are too many. The 2nd pic shows it with split screen with the 200kHz on the left and 77 kHz on the right. Seems like it is a 200 kHz issue with my unit?

 

I'd prefer to stick with the 200kHz ducer as it is supposed to be more powerful and show better detail of what is directly below the boat over the 77 kHz which has a wider beam. Sorry for the glare.

 

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  • Global Moderator
Posted

I’ve had bubbles coming out of the mud give me similar readings 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

you're getting better, so you've diagnosed the issue.  Now you have to play with your own speed vs scroll speed for your unit.  It looks like you were going 0 MPH for these pictures.  If that's true, then that's why you're not getting a good visual and would cause those lines.  In the bottom it looks like there is a break half way across the screen where you stopped moving maybe?  Much better to the right (moving) and bad to the left (stopped).

 

You'll need to start playing with your contrast and sensitivity now also.  It might just be your color pallet, but the colors look a little 'hot'.  I'd turn both down halfway from where they are now towards 0.

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