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Posted

Hello! I recently purchased a Dobyns DC 736CB Glass and Shimano SLX XT 150 to serve as a dedicated chatterbait/crankbait/spinnerbait setup. I bought a roll of 20# Seaguar Tatsu to serve as the main line because I read Brett Hite uses 20lb fluoro for chatterbaits. While I was Googling to see if there were any cons to running mono backing, I ran across a few articles strongly recommending against running any straight fluoro over 8#. I run 30# braid to 15# fluoro leader on my jig rods so I don't mind doing the same for this rod and reel, but I wanted to check with the collective knowledge of BassResource before I made any decisions.

 

What do you think? Will I run into significant issues by going straight 20# fluoro (w/ mono backing)? Should I return the roll and go back to 30# braid with a 15# fluoro leader?

 

Thanks!

 

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Posted
5 minutes ago, wanderful said:

I ran across a few articles strongly recommending against running any straight fluoro over 8#.

Ignore them - I've got 15# and 20# FC on two of my reels - backing to save money. About 70yds of mainline, the rest of the spool filled with cheap mono (Berkley Big Game)

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Posted

Nah. You'll be fine. 

I use 20lb Sniper on multiple jig setups. Sometimes with backing to save a buck, sometimes straight flouro. I never have any issues. 

 

I've thrown bladed jigs on Sufix Advance co-poly lately though. Works great. 

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Posted

40# braid. No leader.

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Posted

Another vote for ignoring whatever you read. Throwing 25# fluoro right now on my swimbait rod without issues (see today’s post in ‘Latest catch pics’). Use whatever backing you’d like to save money. I’ve either got old mono or fluoro as backing under all my reels with fresh fluoro. spooled on top. #fadethebraid

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Posted

Tatsu 20# is .015D or the diameter as 15# Big Game.

Whatever you choose as backing will remain as backing with about 75 yds of Tatsu 20# FC. Leaving 25 yards of FC as backing when  change line is my suggestion.

Tom

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Posted

As was said..Ignore that and never read anything that person writes again. 
 

Except for 3, all my combo’s are flouro from 12# to 25# and have no complaints 

 

 

 

 

Mike

Posted

As said above ignore it that 8# reference was probably towards using higher than 8# fluoro on spinning gear.

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Posted

It certainly is doable although an SLX wouldn't be my 1st choice for a reel.  I don't like centrifugal reels with these larger diameter stiff plastic lines and prefer a slower braking profile of an SV, heavier braking profile magforce z or shimano DC.  These braking systems help keep the spool from spinning faster than the slinky can pass through the system and get out of its own way.  With centrifugal reel I have to ride my thumb over the spool for the entirety of the cast to beat the flouro down or run more spool tension than I would like which defeats the purpose of purchasing a free casting centrifugal reel. Cone shaped or tws help too belive it or not.  I don't use line conditioner so my line is extra stiff. I'll run a 14 or 16 lb sniper usually on a MH or H chatterbait rod.  These are just my preferences or beliefs on the matter. 

 

I also have a cheapskate MH rod for moving baits at night from a kayak so I don't risk my over expensive normal rig.   On the cheap rig I have ran 15 lb basix and 12 lb big game, again no line goop. Both lines are excellent budget friendly, highly elastic moving bait lines.  If you want a middle of the road flouro between basix and tatsu I would recommend invizx although I'm a sniper guy, no conditioner.

Posted

I think the 20lb flouro will be fine. My 736cb glass rods have straight braid on Shimano Calcutta 151s for chatterbaits that simulate craws or blegill I run around vegetation. I like the braid on the glass rods for good feel of the blade and solid hooksets.

 

I have a couple other MH/F setups that are white, white/chartreuse, or silver to simulate minnows and shad that I run straight flouro on. If I remember right I am currently running 17 or 20lb ob those right now myself.

Posted

I have 17-25lb fc on multiple reels. It’s fine to run straight fc. However I usually only have about 50-75 yards of the expensive stuff on and the rest cheap mono backing. 

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Posted
4 hours ago, FrnkNsteen said:

I like the braid on the glass rods for good feel of the blade and solid hooksets.

I'm in this camp for single hook moving baits. Ark Invoker 7'4" H MF composite rod, Daiwa Zillion HD, 40# Fins Infinity braid. Good feel, solid hooksets at any distance, and the rod does a great job of keeping them pinned.

Posted
11 hours ago, Tatulatard said:

It certainly is doable although an SLX wouldn't be my 1st choice for a reel.  I don't like centrifugal reels with these larger diameter stiff plastic lines and prefer a slower braking profile of an SV, heavier braking profile magforce z or shimano DC.  These braking systems help keep the spool from spinning faster than the slinky can pass through the system and get out of its own way.  With centrifugal reel I have to ride my thumb over the spool for the entirety of the cast to beat the flouro down or run more spool tension than I would like which defeats the purpose of purchasing a free casting centrifugal reel. Cone shaped or tws help too belive it or not.  I don't use line conditioner so my line is extra stiff. I'll run a 14 or 16 lb sniper usually on a MH or H chatterbait rod.  These are just my preferences or beliefs on the matter. 

 

I also have a cheapskate MH rod for moving baits at night from a kayak so I don't risk my over expensive normal rig.   On the cheap rig I have ran 15 lb basix and 12 lb big game, again no line goop. Both lines are excellent budget friendly, highly elastic moving bait lines.  If you want a middle of the road flouro between basix and tatsu I would recommend invizx although I'm a sniper guy, no conditioner.

I should know this but are all the shimanos such as thd curado 150 centrifugal breaks? 

Posted
9 hours ago, Bandersnatch said:

I should know this but are all the shimanos such as thd curado 150 centrifugal breaks? 

If it's not a DC or BFS then it's centrifugal with the exception of maybe the bass rise. 

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Posted
1 hour ago, bp_fowler said:

Does it matter what lbs test the backing is is?  

Baitcasters I run 10# Big Game for backing - no matter what mainline I'm going to use...8# YZH to 20# FC to 50# Braid...all get the same backing.

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Posted
22 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

Baitcasters I run 10# Big Game for backing - no matter what mainline I'm going to use...8# YZH to 20# FC to 50# Braid...all get the same backing.

 One more question if you don’t mind.  
How much backing do you spool on?

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Posted
Just now, bp_fowler said:

 One more question if you don’t mind.  
How much backing do you spool on?

It's more 'how much mainline do I put on'.

 

Start with an empty reel - spool on 70 or so yards of mainline, join to BG with Uni-Uni knot, fill the spool. Power drill with an empty source spool on a bolt chucked in, unspool reel to source spool, repeat for source spool to second source spool...this reverses the line. Now put it on your reel.

 

From then on, when you want to replace your mainline, just unspool to the knot, cut it off, tie on new mainline and fill the reel - I'm going on 5 years of the same BG backing on a couple of my reels.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

 

31 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

It's more 'how much mainline do I put on'.

 

Start with an empty reel - spool on 70 or so yards of mainline, join to BG with Uni-Uni knot, fill the spool. Power drill with an empty source spool on a bolt chucked in, unspool reel to source spool, repeat for source spool to second source spool...this reverses the line. Now put it on your reel.

 

From then on, when you want to replace your mainline, just unspool to the knot, cut it off, tie on new mainline and fill the reel - I'm going on 5 years of the same BG backing on a couple of my reels.

 

Thanks!

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