Show your ride...

[Swamp Girl]

@gimruis: I love boat shows too.

 

@GaryH: It is quiet. I was sitting in some reeds this morning with a wolfpack chasing shad on all sides of me and they were oblivious to my presence. I get such a kick when I'm paddling through weeds and I bump a bass with my canoe's bow because they don't hear me coming.

[GaryH]

Just now, ol'crickety said:

@gimruis: I love boat shows too.

 

@GaryH: It is quiet. I was sitting in some reeds this morning with a wolfpack chasing shad on all sides of me and they were oblivious to my presence. I get such a kick when I'm paddling through weeds and I bump a bass with my canoe's bow because they don't hear me coming.

Kates F-22 love it. 👍

[Swamp Girl]

@GaryH: 😉(out of reactions)

[Skunked again]

 

Got a used Skanu. 12'4" long x 39" wide. 160#'s. And a trailer.

The plan is to mount a Nucanoe Pivot Drive on it. No gas engine or electric motor going on it. This also saves from needing to register it.

No plans of mounting electronics either. 

 

 

The drive is used, from a frontier 12. Above pic is with pivot drive floor/baseplate. 

For the seat, my thought is to mount strut on the black HDPE, square tube on a swivel attached to the seat. Bar knobs (2 each side) to secure the tube to the strut. This way you can get infinite seat adjustment. Similar to the nucanoes.

 

 

 

 

Above pic without baseplate, and bent aluminum flat stock, that I plan on securing to the floor. I like this option better, not as much wasted space, and the pedals are farther forward. I found pics online for H2ProPed, this appears to be the pivot drive predecessor. In these pics, similar to this was done.

I'm undecided on using rivnuts (2 on each side of the aluminum, two center - front of the drive), or cutting an access hole under the front lid, and putting fender washers on the backside. The rivnuts would make it easy to remove. Pros and cons to both. The plastic is 1/4" thick. Your thoughts?

 

Two rivnuts here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With pivot drive on, not secured yet.

Previous owner had transom reinforced, with an aluminum plate on the inside, it runs from top to a couple inches from bottom, and a couple inches outside of the transom eyes. It was done right. 

 

 

I have these wheels ordered, planning on mounting them. Will need to do something with the transom eyes though. Maybe move them inward?

 

Your thoughts please!! Any input is welcome. Unless it's to say "just get a jon boat" !!  

 

Sorry this is so long, I'm kinda excited about this project!

 

Mods - move if needed. 

 

 

[GaryH]

@Skunked again looks great. Congrats

[Motoboss]

No suggestions, never heard of a pivot drive. But I like it!

 

Great project 👍🏼

[Swamp Girl]

@Skunked again: I love it. It looks stable, just big enough, and pretty fast.

[kjfishman]

Great project. Interesting drive system.

[Skunked again]

Thanks all! 
Had it out a few times since last post.
2-3mph average. Is that fast, slow, normal?

Stability is top notch. The first trip, I had issues with the drive cable wanting to wrap itself up. I turned around, without thinking, addressed the issue. Then it hit me, what id just done. Not once was I worried about capsizing.

7’ rods fit inside the hull. That makes me happy!

I put some pieces of 2” foam in the hull. If that thing took on water, titanic it would be!
I added another brace for the pedal drive. I put more pressure on the drive unit, than I imagined possible. Much better now.

I’ll get some pictures posted later. 
added an anchor trolley. Gonna add a retractable clothes line for the anchor.

wheels came in, they’re on. 

[Skunked again]

 

The paddle in the pic, that's a  94" long paddle. It's to short, for my liking. Water drips on my legs. Which is great in the summer. Come colder weather, that will not be so nice! It does help to show the length of the boat, in front of the seat.

Wheels on, drive cable inside two 90* 3/4" PVC elbows. My first try, I used two 1/2" PEX radius supports, it helped, I was on the right track. At home, the drive cable was fine. On the water, with pressure on it, the cable wanted to wrap itself up. This helped. The cable inside the 90*'s, that was the ticket. I've since added two more 90*'s (see next pic), glued all but one of the 90*'s together. Why leave one unglued? To be able to rotate, from trailer mode to water mode.

Where the drive unit is, that's the approximate location for trailering. It sits down in the groove, bungeed in, ratchet strap over it.

 

Next, time to raise the seat. Both to help with pedaling, and the ability to swivel more. I had some strut (B22) laying around, used that. Attached it to the boat with rivnuts, 4 each. IIRC each piece is 16" long. Had some 1" square tube (}steel) laying around also, used that for the seat cross-pieces. Yes, they're rusty. When I get some time, I'll dis-assemble, sand and paint them.

 

 

 

As you see, some plano boxes under the seat. 

 

 

Added an anchor trolley, scupper covers, drain plug. The anchor trolley is fantastic! Used it the other day. I'm going to mount a retractable clothesline, for the anchor rope. 

The scupper covers - they are NOT rated for "under the waterline". With that said, they do cut down on the amount of water that comes in, which is nothing scary. I do, however, like to fish when it's cold. This way, I can work out some "bugs", while the water is warmer.

Drain plug - Added one. No clue why it didn't come with one, should be a standard. 

 

Weight - this thing is HEAVY! 160#'s according to manufacturer. Bow heavy at that. Which is good and bad.

 

One of the most useful things on this boat? The bow mount access hatch, the PO had added, when the trolling motor plate was added. Why? I constantly find myself removing the hatch, sticking my hand in there, for somewhere to grab, when launching/loading/moving it around, when not on the trailer.

 

The wheels on the back - they're good and bad. They work as advertised. Easy/quick to put on/take off, raise up and down. Once in the water, you have to submerse arm, just about to elbow, to raise/lower. I bought a pair of bicep length gloves, for colder weather. Remember when I said this boat is heavy? Bow heavy at that? Having the wheels on the stern amplifies this. Figuring out how to mount them mid ship would be better. Or a kayak/canoe cart? This is how I'm going to use it for now though.     

 

If you had a drive cable, from a shorter nucanoe, or maybe a tandem cable, all the 90's would not be needed. However, this is money I do not wish to spend...at the moment! Or shorten the cable. Which I do not want to do. If this doesn't work out, the cable will come out of the 90's, the drive unit be sold, or put on the proper vessel.

 

Your thoughts please!

 

 

[Motoboss]

On 6/10/2024 at 8:51 PM, Skunked again said:

 

The paddle in the pic, that's a  94" long paddle. It's to short, for my liking. Water drips on my legs. Which is great in the summer. Come colder weather, that will not be so nice! It does help to show the length of the boat, in front of the seat.

Wheels on, drive cable inside two 90* 3/4" PVC elbows. My first try, I used two 1/2" PEX radius supports, it helped, I was on the right track. At home, the drive cable was fine. On the water, with pressure on it, the cable wanted to wrap itself up. This helped. The cable inside the 90*'s, that was the ticket. I've since added two more 90*'s (see next pic), glued all but one of the 90*'s together. Why leave one unglued? To be able to rotate, from trailer mode to water mode.

Where the drive unit is, that's the approximate location for trailering. It sits down in the groove, bungeed in, ratchet strap over it.

 

Next, time to raise the seat. Both to help with pedaling, and the ability to swivel more. I had some strut (B22) laying around, used that. Attached it to the boat with rivnuts, 4 each. IIRC each piece is 16" long. Had some 1" square tube (}steel) laying around also, used that for the seat cross-pieces. Yes, they're rusty. When I get some time, I'll dis-assemble, sand and paint them.

 

 

 

As you see, some plano boxes under the seat. 

 

 

Added an anchor trolley, scupper covers, drain plug. The anchor trolley is fantastic! Used it the other day. I'm going to mount a retractable clothesline, for the anchor rope. 

The scupper covers - they are NOT rated for "under the waterline". With that said, they do cut down on the amount of water that comes in, which is nothing scary. I do, however, like to fish when it's cold. This way, I can work out some "bugs", while the water is warmer.

Drain plug - Added one. No clue why it didn't come with one, should be a standard. 

 

Weight - this thing is HEAVY! 160#'s according to manufacturer. Bow heavy at that. Which is good and bad.

 

One of the most useful things on this boat? The bow mount access hatch, the PO had added, when the trolling motor plate was added. Why? I constantly find myself removing the hatch, sticking my hand in there, for somewhere to grab, when launching/loading/moving it around, when not on the trailer.

 

The wheels on the back - they're good and bad. They work as advertised. Easy/quick to put on/take off, raise up and down. Once in the water, you have to submerse arm, just about to elbow, to raise/lower. I bought a pair of bicep length gloves, for colder weather. Remember when I said this boat is heavy? Bow heavy at that? Having the wheels on the stern amplifies this. Figuring out how to mount them mid ship would be better. Or a kayak/canoe cart? This is how I'm going to use it for now though.     

 

If you had a drive cable, from a shorter nucanoe, or maybe a tandem cable, all the 90's would not be needed. However, this is money I do not wish to spend...at the moment! Or shorten the cable. Which I do not want to do. If this doesn't work out, the cable will come out of the 90's, the drive unit be sold, or put on the proper vessel.

 

Your thoughts please!

 

 

Awesome job 👍🏼

One suggestion for the metal supports, get a small (1/4 pint) of POR 15. No need to sand and prime as POR is made to be applied to rust directly and encapsulates it to prevent it from “growing”.  To ensure longevity just apply a coat or two of rattle can paint over it for UV protection and done!

 

Really liking the set up!

[Skunked again]

Motoboss - thank you for that advice about the POR 15, I'll look into that.

I'm liking it more each time I take it out! The only con I've found is the weight, given what it does for the vessel though, I can live with it.

 

I just noticed your signature line, I agree!

[kjfishman]

On 6/10/2024 at 5:16 PM, Skunked again said:

Thanks all! 
Had it out a few times since last post.
2-3mph average. Is that fast, slow, normal?

Stability is top notch. The first trip, I had issues with the drive cable wanting to wrap itself up. I turned around, without thinking, addressed the issue. Then it hit me, what id just done. Not once was I worried about capsizing.

7’ rods fit inside the hull. That makes me happy!

I put some pieces of 2” foam in the hull. If that thing took on water, titanic it would be!
I added another brace for the pedal drive. I put more pressure on the drive unit, than I imagined possible. Much better now.

I’ll get some pictures posted later. 
added an anchor trolley. Gonna add a retractable clothes line for the anchor.

wheels came in, they’re on. 

That is on the slow side but your wanting to primarily fish so not a big deal.

[ButchA]

Cayman 124 fishing kayak (was my late bro-in-law's kayak) and my sister gave it to me after he passed. I keep everything just as it was, and even named it RIPJACK on the front bow sides.

[gim]

@ButchA please consider wearing a PFD. Especially in a yak.

[ButchA]

1 hour ago, gimruis said:

@ButchA please consider wearing a PFD. Especially in a yak.

It's behind me in the kayak. The James River in VA is like 4-5 feet deep anyway...

[Motoboss]

DNR friend told me he has never pulled a dead guy from a lake or river wearing a pfd, the old proverbial “ you can drown in a tea spoon of water” still holds true.

 

It’s a choice……….

[Motoboss]

On 2/24/2024 at 12:37 PM, Motoboss said:

My latest $150.00 project, pretty excited!

 

1994 Sportspal 13’ Square Stern, 12’8” x 36”

Strip/Reseal/Repaint

New foam interior & sponsons

 

Heading to a lake/river near me in 2024 😎

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well, after several months, family health crisis and uncooperative weather I have finally got back to my project Sportspal Canoe.

Yesterday I was able to get the Topside top color painting done. It takes 5 days to cure before flipping it over and getting the bottom painted with the super slick Wetlander 3 Part Kit

The color is “Sealskin” which is a greenish gray. I like it!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Skunked again]

I like it! is that a hammered finish?

[Motoboss]

17 hours ago, Skunked again said:

I like it! is that a hammered finish?

Mmmmm, kinda. It’s more of a semigloss metallic(ish) flake look.  Looks all one color but in direct sun it has a bit of a flake effect. I think it has more to do with the paint as it states it will have an “orange peel” finish, even more-so when applied with a roller. However I did spray it with an automotive setup.

 

 

[ButchA]

Updated photo taken yesterday...

I'm wearing my incredibly comfortable Fishing PFD from Cabela's.  I was changing lures in the photo...

[Motoboss]

Awesome @ButchA Go slay ‘em!

[Susky River Rat]

Had to beach it for a poop break for my River. I though man this looks like a pretty solid background 

[gim]

Took this photo of my rig recently as the fog was lifting off the water.

 

 

[Skunked again]

Beautiful Pic !