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Posted

Those of you that trailer your little boats, what sort of tie down system are you using?  I currently use one long strap thrown across the back of the boat and hooked to the trailer frame.  Would like to mount a retractable ratchet system(like the boat buckle, but cheaper) to the back on either side but I have nothing to hook to on my boat(basshound 10.2). There are some cleats but I'm not too confident in how secure those are.  Any suggestions?

Posted
1 hour ago, Okiefisher29 said:

Those of you that trailer your little boats, what sort of tie down system are you using?  I currently use one long strap thrown across the back of the boat and hooked to the trailer frame.  Would like to mount a retractable ratchet system(like the boat buckle, but cheaper) to the back on either side but I have nothing to hook to on my boat(basshound 10.2). There are some cleats but I'm not too confident in how secure those are.  Any suggestions?

You could still use the trailer with retractable ratchet style straps....Sam's club sells them for 23 bucks and they come in a two pack and are 10 feet long.  If you want to go directly to the boat then without hooks I agree with you I would be worried using screwed in cleats.  I use the method you are using now, I just cut off the excess straps so I didn't have to manage extra strapping.

Posted
6 hours ago, Lonnie D A Uptegrow said:

So I have had some time to work on the boat...still.....STILL....have not had a chance to get her wet.  Hasn't even seen the rain.   I feel so ashamed...lol!  

 

Please check out what I have been cooking up so far.  The pics are not in any particular order but you can put 2 and 2 together. 

 

You will see the solar panel in one of the pics...I have to figure something out with that, but I think I'm going to make a removable deck when I fish by my self and just take out one of the chairs.  Thought about using a spare chair bracket and mounting it to that as well....we will see.

 

http://s709.photobucket.com/user/lonnieuptegrow/slideshow/

Nice mods! I like the anti fatigue mats for the floor! I think I'm stealing that idea. Mind if I ask where you got the mats? I still haven't got mine in the water yet, still got a couple little things to get and she'll have her maiden voyage :lol:

Posted
1 hour ago, frosty said:

Nice mods! I like the anti fatigue mats for the floor! I think I'm stealing that idea. Mind if I ask where you got the mats? I still haven't got mine in the water yet, still got a couple little things to get and she'll have her maiden voyage :lol:

Thanks...I got the mats off of Amazon.  Search for ProSource Puzzle Exercise Mat...right now they go for 20.84.  I only needed one pack and out of that pack I used 4 and a half...which now that I think about it is simple math being that the boat is 10ft...LOL!  If you want black or blue it will cost a few bucks more.  Something that I didn't show in the pics is the bottom of the mats...at each seam I tripled taped them so that I could move it around as one piece and so none of the pieces would just go off on me.  I used the all weather gorilla tape.

I didn't see a rule about links to products so hopefully this doesn't get me into trouble, so here you go instead of searching for it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K2TWXD6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  • Like 1
Posted

Hello, have kept an eye on this forum for awhile now and want to thank everyone for their ideas. I have a Bass Raider 10E that I haul around on a Harbor freight 8x10 kit trailer, Minn Kota 40lb trolling motor. No real mods yet except for adding a floor, makes a huge difference! I have several projects planned for it and will post some pics as soon as they become reality. Might try the foam mat idea as well, just have to wonder how hot it might get on bare feet vs carpet.

 

I have a question about fish finders, in particular the Garmin Striker 4 and the 4cv which I guess used to be the 4dv. Does anyone here have experience with either or both and how do you like it? If you have the 4cv, is the extra cost worth it and finally, would you go with the portable kit or the basic package?

Thanks, David

  • Like 1
Posted

If you don't want to go through the hassle of getting a mount for the fish finder itself or taking away a mount that could be used for a rod holder or other accessories the portable kit seems pretty decent since you can pick up the bag and go 

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks, one nice thing about the portable is it includes the battery and charger. Watched a video review of the portable and said he went on a three day fishing trip and the battery still had about a 25 percent charge left on it. Most of our trips are for the day or the occasional weekend so that's plenty of charge. Neither the 4 or the 4vc have maps, but I do have a handheld GPS that has built in marine maps, just toss it in the bag if I really want to mess with it.

Posted
On ‎5‎/‎8‎/‎2017 at 0:20 PM, Lonnie D A Uptegrow said:

So I have had some time to work on the boat...still.....STILL....have not had a chance to get her wet.  Hasn't even seen the rain.   I feel so ashamed...lol!  

 

Please check out what I have been cooking up so far.  The pics are not in any particular order but you can put 2 and 2 together. 

 

You will see the solar panel in one of the pics...I have to figure something out with that, but I think I'm going to make a removable deck when I fish by my self and just take out one of the chairs.  Thought about using a spare chair bracket and mounting it to that as well....we will see.

 

http://s709.photobucket.com/user/lonnieuptegrow/slideshow/

Looking at you aux power box, I was actually planning on doing the same thing. Anyway you could send me some detailed pictures of how you set it up? I was looking at an ammo box from Harbor Freight and there is a nice 6 gang LED waterproof panel with volt meter, twin usb port on Wish app for $30.

Posted

Mine is going in the water for the first time tomorrow! I'm definitely pumped about it, but I noticed something tonight getting it ready to go, that battery does an awful lot of sliding around. I threw a cheap ratchet strap around it and fastened it to the trolling motor, but I'm planning on having the motor in the front. What are you guys doing to keep your battery in place?

Posted
23 hours ago, frosty said:

Mine is going in the water for the first time tomorrow! I'm definitely pumped about it, but I noticed something tonight getting it ready to go, that battery does an awful lot of sliding around. I threw a cheap ratchet strap around it and fastened it to the trolling motor, but I'm planning on having the motor in the front. What are you guys doing to keep your battery in place?


Mines so heavy, it doesn't move .... *shrug*

It's at the back, on the carpeted plywood floor. Literally nearly impossible to slide.

Posted
48 minutes ago, MrTightLInes said:


Mines so heavy, it doesn't move .... *shrug*

It's at the back, on the carpeted plywood floor. Literally nearly impossible to slide.

I have my battery on a piece of carpeted board with a small block of wood to tilt the battery box slightly backwards. I have wooden floor also carpeted in the bottom of the boat (3 sections) so the battery pretty much stays put.

rsz_battery_mount.jpg

Posted

Mines just the bare floor, I guess I'm going to have to try some carpeting. Thanks guys. 

Posted
On 5/9/2017 at 7:26 PM, bh91 said:

If you don't want to go through the hassle of getting a mount for the fish finder itself or taking away a mount that could be used for a rod holder or other accessories the portable kit seems pretty decent since you can pick up the bag and go 

I carpeted a small piece of wood and mounted the ffinder to the board. It attaches to velcro strips that are adhered to the raider and the carpet backing grips pretty well. When its time to remove it I just lift the unit and pack it away.

rsz_ff_mount.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted
49 minutes ago, RLP said:

I carpeted a small piece of wood and mounted the ffinder to the board. It attaches to velcro strips that are adhered to the raider and the carpet backing grips pretty well. When its time to remove it I just lift the unit and pack it away.

rsz_ff_mount.jpg

 

rsz_velcro.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

That works RLP. Thought about using a plastic ammo can setup that everything could be packed inside. The kit just includes everything, battery, charger and mounts included vs the cost of buying everything separately. Then again nothing beats the feeling of making it yourself!

Posted
On 5/11/2017 at 10:34 PM, Reaper73 said:

Looking at you aux power box, I was actually planning on doing the same thing. Anyway you could send me some detailed pictures of how you set it up? I was looking at an ammo box from Harbor Freight and there is a nice 6 gang LED waterproof panel with volt meter, twin usb port on Wish app for $30.

Sorry it took so long to reply...haven't had a chance to check this site out until now.  I'll look to see if I have any pics while building it.  It is really simple....I was going to use relays at first to switch on multiple things but the box would have been crowded so I just wired my outlets to a switch.  You may be able to see in the picture I have to sets of double outlets which are wired to one switch a pair.  So when I throw the switch to the right of the green switch it powers both outlets of the top pair...one outlet has two USB ports and the other is a 12v plug.  When I hit the switch under that the same happens just to the bottom pair of outlets.  Now to power everything I used two 7ah sealed batteries from Amazon wired in parallel.  This gives me the same 12v but with increased capacity for a total of 14ah.  The idea behind this box was that it is a emergency power source for my trolling motor as well in the event I have an issue with my big battery.  Inside the box excluding the wiring you will see a bus bar where all of my grounds connect and a fuse panel for the different circuits.  I'll take some pics and I'll post them to my Photobucket.  I originally was going to mount my fish finder to the box to create my own portable unit but I had didn't have a solution for the transducer so I went with using scotty product.  Now I can move this anywhere on the boat without having to move my power center much.  The transducer cable is a simple as a little tape.  I cannot promise I'll have pics up today but hopefully I can get you some this week.

On 5/12/2017 at 10:39 PM, frosty said:

Mine is going in the water for the first time tomorrow! I'm definitely pumped about it, but I noticed something tonight getting it ready to go, that battery does an awful lot of sliding around. I threw a cheap ratchet strap around it and fastened it to the trolling motor, but I'm planning on having the motor in the front. What are you guys doing to keep your battery in place?

Yeah I agree with the other poster...my battery is so heavy it doesn't budge even when I'm moving it around on the trailer to install stuff.  Even more so now that I have the foam padding down.  Once I get it on the water I can tell you more but right now with all the moving I have done it doesn't move.

Posted

For those of you that have your BR10E hooked up to where you have a casting deck on the front....I'm going with a Minn Kota tiller steer 45 or 50. I plan to stand and fish a good bit with a temporary drop-in casting deck. Academy has the 45 with a 45" shaft. The 50 only has a 36" shaft (unless I'm missing somn?) My question is....when I'm standing is the 36" shaft enough length for me to not have to stoop over to control the troller or should I go with the 45" shaft to be safe? 

 

First post. Have read all 105 pages. Great stuff. #rookiequestion

Posted

I'd go with the longer shaft, you can always put it deeper but it will be tough to make it shallower if it's to short. 

 

 

 

Is this still considered family friendly :blink::o:lol:

  • Like 2
Posted
23 minutes ago, frosty said:

I'd go with the longer shaft, you can always put it deeper but it will be tough to make it shallower if it's to short. 

 

 

 

Is this still considered family friendly :blink::o:lol:

Bahahahha ? Thanks man. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

This post is dual purpose, first it is to test my resizing of the pics to ensure I can add them and first to show how my Bass Raider adventure started.  It all began with the purchase of this trailer about a week before Black Friday of last year.  These trailers are a pain in the butt to assemble, but once you get it done it works out just fine. I'm going to do a post with a ton of pics of everything I have done so far.  Hopefully someone can get something from it...I researched this site for ideas and watched a ton of kayak videos on how I wanted to setup my Bass Raider 10e.  Until I have time to resize all the pics...here is a link to my google album...it should be in order from the first pic back in 2016 up to the last pics I took yesterday.  Enjoy!  https://goo.gl/photos/ykH8q7QCHjWiwJvc9

1-20161119_113944.jpg

Edited by Lonnie D A Uptegrow
Added google album link.
  • Like 4
Posted
9 hours ago, Lonnie D A Uptegrow said:

This post is dual purpose, first it is to test my resizing of the pics to ensure I can add them and first to show how my Bass Raider adventure started.  It all began with the purchase of this trailer about a week before Black Friday of last year.  These trailers are a pain in the butt to assemble, but once you get it done it works out just fine. I'm going to do a post with a ton of pics of everything I have done so far.  Hopefully someone can get something from it...I researched this site for ideas and watched a ton of kayak videos on how I wanted to setup my Bass Raider 10e. 

1-20161119_113944.jpg

Agree those trailers are a bit of a pain, but worth it. Ours has been a good one and have used it for more than hauling the Bass Raider around, fridge, riding mower, scrap metal and more. The only thing I'd like to change is the placement of the lights. When you place your tag on the light the tilt is useless because it hits the ground. Has anyone found a way around that? Thought about using some PVC pipe and raising them, but raising the tag also puts it in the way when loading and unloading. Wish GA. used small trailer tags like motorcycles use.

  • Like 2
Posted
6 minutes ago, Fish'nGeorgia said:

Agree those trailers are a bit of a pain, but worth it. Ours has been a good one and have used it for more than hauling the Bass Raider around, fridge, riding mower, scrap metal and more. The only thing I'd like to change is the placement of the lights. When you place your tag on the light the tilt is useless because it hits the ground. Has anyone found a way around that? Thought about using some PVC pipe and raising them, but raising the tag also puts it in the way when loading and unloading. Wish GA. used small trailer tags like motorcycles use.

I dislike the plate\light placement as well.  The very first issue I had after putting it together was the brake light and signal light not working on the drivers side.  Everything you read on the internet points to grounding however in my case I had already ensured I had good grounds when installing the light kit.  So I either had a bad light or issue with the tail light wiring harness I bought.  I got one of those testers for tail lights and tested the wiring harness connected to my lights.  So that left the trailer...well to shorten the story turns out that one of the pins in the harness on the trailer was pressed too tight so I had to expand it a bit for it to make good contact when in the tail light plug.  Getting back to the plate and light placement...you could technically make a custom bracket that came off of the trailer at 90 degrees...if you make it as wide as the wheel fenders then you would still be working with the same amount of space on either side of the trailer, and you can make it just high enough to allow tilting.  It could potentially still get in the way depending on how you load and unload whatever you are trailering.   Just brain storming, maybe someone has already solved this?

  • Like 1
Posted
22 hours ago, Lonnie D A Uptegrow said:

I dislike the plate\light placement as well.  The very first issue I had after putting it together was the brake light and signal light not working on the drivers side.  Everything you read on the internet points to grounding however in my case I had already ensured I had good grounds when installing the light kit.  So I either had a bad light or issue with the tail light wiring harness I bought.  I got one of those testers for tail lights and tested the wiring harness connected to my lights.  So that left the trailer...well to shorten the story turns out that one of the pins in the harness on the trailer was pressed too tight so I had to expand it a bit for it to make good contact when in the tail light plug.  Getting back to the plate and light placement...you could technically make a custom bracket that came off of the trailer at 90 degrees...if you make it as wide as the wheel fenders then you would still be working with the same amount of space on either side of the trailer, and you can make it just high enough to allow tilting.  It could potentially still get in the way depending on how you load and unload whatever you are trailering.   Just brain storming, maybe someone has already solved this?

A custom bracket could work. Thinking more about your idea, PVC can be heated up with a heat gun, flatten the end drill holes and mount them where the light mounts are now. Using elbows to extend them beyond the trailer, a T out for the raised lights and plate bracket. Of course a separate ground would have to be ran. The uprights would also serve as trailer guides for backing up empty. Not so concerned about the uprights being in the way as that darn metal plate, like you said raised, but still inside the fender. I usually carry two kayaks too so I need to build carriers for those and again thinking PVC pipe flattened a bit, going from one side to the other, over the boat and using the post mounts on the sides of the trailer with pins to take them off when the kayaks are unloaded. 

 

BTW. Last year there was a recall on those trailer lights. They sent a card and I mailed it in, they sent a new light kit. I still haven't swapped them out because I don't haul at night. Everything around here is close enough that I can usually get home before dark. I have the same problem you described with your lights, but you fixed yours? I thought it might have been the wiring or part of the reason for the recall. You might see if your lights were included and can still get another set. Doesn't hurt to have a second in case you bust one. I haven't even opened the box yet. In Georgia you don't have to have lights on a trailer during daylight hours. Still need to fix them just in case we do get stuck having to trailer at night.

  • Like 1
Posted

Well got it out on the water yesterday...and I found some issues I need to address.  First my homemade boat dolly is too low to the ground and the L brackets I used are not good for the weight.  Keep in mind that I'm moving all of my gear while in the boat from the parking lot to the water just because of the walk...plus I have a group 29 battery that I do not want to carry that far...lol.  Second I forgot to put a bow line on it...with all the other stuff I installed I didn't have a way to tie the boat up...lol...completely slipped my mind.  Other than that everything else worked great.  The extension for the trolling motor has to be put on while on the water because we do not have a proper launch point but all and all I'm happy.  Also for those wondering about the stability of these boats let me tell you I'm 6'-1" and 360 and I didn't need a 7 inch riser which seems to be popular and I found that I could move all over this thing without a problem...you still need to be mindful of your center of gravity but man was it nice...was down on my knees and back up with out issue.  Very happy so far with this boat!!

  • Like 2

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