Any Pelican Bass Raider Owners Out There?

[Bird]

1 hour ago, padlin said:

On a different note,  I tried the 55lb on the front, worked okay just putzing around but if I gave it a lot of power it'd lift up at the mount, tried stair tread but still no gobso I moved it back to the rear. Hard to steer with it on the front too, even with a rudder. Anyone have a better way?

I gotta ask, you did rotate the head for bow mount ?

If you give to much thrust while turning sharp, one side will lift up at the mount otherwise I've not had any issues.

I also have the battery, tackle and cooler all in the stern to balance the weight.

 

[padlin]

Yes, the head was rotated. It may well have been while turning sharp, didn't click if it was.

[johnkn]

16 hours ago, TriStateBassin106 said:

If you're going to install the trolling motor up front and connect it to the boat via the port in the front make sure you put your battery in a minn kota battery box. I didn't and my fuse blew inside the boat because it couldn't handle the 55lb thrust so now my motor is in the back, i personally like it better that way. I also have an endura max 55lb with 36inch shaft and love it. 

 

Hi, I actually had one of these boats 25 years ago.  There’s a fuse inside the hull that can’t be replaced?  On my last boat I had a pair of Group 27 batteries mounted under the rear seat run in parallel to a fuse at the battery boxes, to the internal wiring to the front.  If there’s a non-replaceable fuse in the hull I need a smaller fuse mounted at the battery.  Any idea what size the fuse on your box is?  If the stock fuse can’t handle the 55, I’ll just drop to the 45 version.  Anyone else have that problem?

 

I’ll be fishing alone 99% of the time and like to sit in the front.

 

Also, what’s the difference in the 10E and your NXT?

 

thank you

 

.

[TriStateBassin106]

10 hours ago, johnkn said:

 

Hi, I actually had one of these boats 25 years ago.  There’s a fuse inside the hull that can’t be replaced?  On my last boat I had a pair of Group 27 batteries mounted under the rear seat run in parallel to a fuse at the battery boxes, to the internal wiring to the front.  If there’s a non-replaceable fuse in the hull I need a smaller fuse mounted at the battery.  Any idea what size the fuse on your box is?  If the stock fuse can’t handle the 55, I’ll just drop to the 45 version.  Anyone else have that problem?

 

I’ll be fishing alone 99% of the time and like to sit in the front.

 

Also, what’s the difference in the 10E and your NXT?

 

thank you

 

.

The big difference between the 10e and the nxt is really just the color of the boat and the seats. NXT comes with padded seats instead of the hard plastic that the normal 10e comes with. But in regards to the wiring inside the boat the fuse is only 40amps and the inside wiring is 8AWG. My fuse popped after 10 minutes with the 55lb thrust. Here is another thread about the issue. My two cents though is If you want to use the inside wiring you're probably gonna want to use a trolling motor below or at 40lb thrust. 

 

[johnkn]

Ah, ok, so no factory fuse buried in the hull, your experience was the overloaded factory wiring/circuit.

 

Thank you Sir...

 

[VolFan]

@Bazoo Here’s your Pond Prowler/Bass Raider thread!

[Bazoo]

@VolFan Wow, thanks. It'll take me a while to read through this one!

[Bazoo]

I'm working on the thread and am 15 pages in, but I have some anchoring questions.

 

I've been using a mushroom anchors when fishing shallow to hold my spot and I'm wondering: How much line should I use for water in the 3'-6' range? 

 

When using 2 anchors, my buddy and I have tried different amounts and it seems that about 3' extra line is about right. Is that about what everyone else has found to be right?

 

What about when using 1 anchor? Should I use a bit more line?

 

When anchored with 1 line, we spin pretty good with mild wind, would a fixed rudder stop this or just make the spin slower?

[Bazoo]

Well, I'm up to page 32 now.

 

I decided to work on adding some anchor locks to my Buster boat. I think I'll have to add some metal plates for them to attach to, which might become handy for other things as well.

 

Here's what she looked like a few weeks ago.

 

[padlin]

I use a set of these zig zag cleats off Amazon, if that’s what you mean by anchor locks. They have a fairly big base which allowed me to attach them with some 3m 2 sided VHB tape. 
 

[Bazoo]

I'm up to page 57 now. Lots of good info.

 

The anchor locks of which I speak are like this. Though the ones I'm using were old and rusty and I've refurbished and painted them.

Here's how I'm currently moving my Bass Buster.  I can lift it up by myself, but its right at my limit. Usually a friend helps me, and then benefits by fishing from it when we get there. I want a hitch and trailer, but... for now, it works

 

 

We are using paddles only, and not getting into big water. I'll have to title and register it before I can use a trolling motor, unfortunately. 

 

My boat has pretty tall side rails, and I'm working on figuring out some horizontal rod holders for it. I figure 2 rods on each side, and it will still allow the cooler and live well to be opened, though not quite fully.

 

Anyone out there made this modification and want to share?

[Bazoo]

I'm on page 101 now.

 

I'm thinking ahead to an outboard. I have a few questions.

 

I'll preface it by saying I'm completely new to outboard motors and to using them on these types of boats. My boat is rated for 5 HP.

 

If I happened upon a 6HP, would it be okay? Is it against some law to use one that is larger than the boat is rated? I am not looking for max power, just curious. 

 

Conversly, if I happened upon a 3.5 or 4 HP, would that be plenty enough or would I wish to have a 5HP? I think they made like 2.5hp... what about one of them? 

 

I'm not actively looking for an outboard, but I am keeping my eyes peeled for whatever comes my way because I am looking to the future.

 

My usage would be both on rivers and lakes.

[padlin]

I only have experience with the 55 trolling motor, but even that when goosed makes the plastic transom flex a good bit. If I went with a gas motor I’d pay attn to how much flex it causes and try to keep from applying too much torque all at once. If the weight and size of a 6 isn’t that much different from a 5, then go for it, just pay attn when you first start off.

 

I suppose you could call someone like Pelican, and ask the same question, just tell them you have a Bass Raider.

[Bazoo]

My boat is a Buster Boat by Splash Marine. It has a metal transom plate over plastic and I think, but don't know for sure, that it has wood on the inside. 

[padlin]

Same as the Raiders.

[DanielG]

I recently purchased a bass raider. It's in my shop and I'm outfitting it now. I've already documented it with a couple of  youtube vids. Lotsa fun.

[Bazoo]

I lost track of where I was, glad that I posted what page I was on up there. Lots of information and ideas to sort through.

 

I have a question.

 

In the past I used 2 anchors, one on the bow and one on the stern, which was needed to keep the boat from drifting in the wind. I just tied the anchor line to the handle...

 

I am thinking about adding an anchor mount to my Buster Boat. I have actually made one for the bow, but haven't installed it yet, since boat building was on hold for some other things.

 

I did NOT have a rudder. My question is: Once I do have a rudder, will I still need 2 anchors, or will a bow anchor be enough?

[padlin]

I tried a rudder on the far end of the boat but didn’t like it, more trouble than it was worth, I do however use one of the Bullnose rudders.

 

I use 1 anchor, although I have 2. For me it’s like the canoe, I just need to pick which corner I need to anchor from. I use zig zag cleats, and yes, the canoe has 4 cleats too. The only time I use 2 anchors is if the wind requires it, most of the time 1 stays in the truck. My anchors are 3.5 and 7 lb lead filled pvc pipe.

[Bazoo]

On 2/23/2018 at 2:14 PM, Canam13 said:

Hello all,

I want to put 1 or 2 drains (front&back) in the inside of my BR10e, to make it easier to remove water from inside the boat. I've read that the floor is higher than water line, so sealing should be easy. Would anyone know how thick the floor is, so I can buy the proper thru-hull or bulkhead fitting?

I am also considering using a 1" ID size fitting for the drain and using the drain as a through point for a shallow water anchor spike. Anyone ever try or accomplish that on their BR?

That's a good idea, thanks.

[Bazoo]

My Bass Buster has the foam saturated with water, I got a plan there. I am wondering what the difference in stability will be like between the boat now with 100+ pounds of water in the foam, vs how it'll be when I replace it? Will I notice a difference?

 

Right now the boat is "stable" but it does feel somewhat tippy, though it's not tippy, just feels like it when leaning to the sides.

 

I'm on page 117 now.

[Bazoo]

I finally finished reading through this whole thread.

 

I purchased a 55 lb thrust Endura Max trolling motor shortly after tax season. Ain't picked up a battery or registered it yet. But I got the big one out of the way. I still haven't cured the water logged foam, but I've pondered it some more.

[padlin]

I inherited another BR last fall, an 8’er. It sat in my neighbors yard for something like 4 years, full of sludge. Took 4 to break it loose from the muck it was in, dragged it home with the mower, pulled the plugs and the rod holders, tipped it over to drain (it the rod holder holes), then stood it on end, drains down, for the winter. The pontoons were pretty much full when I started. I was pleasantly surprised to find it only weighed 5 lbs more than what Pelican says it weighed when new.

 

Best I can tell the floatation isn’t water logged, even when full of water for years. It seems to float and motor around no problem although I have yet to try fishing out of it.

[Bazoo]

22 minutes ago, padlin said:

I inherited another BR last fall, an 8’er. It sat in my neighbors yard for something like 4 years, full of sludge. Took 4 to break it loose from the muck it was in, dragged it home with the mower, pulled the plugs and the rod holders, tipped it over to drain (it the rod holder holes), then stood it on end, drains down, for the winter. The pontoons were pretty much full when I started. I was pleasantly surprised to find it only weighed 5 lbs more than what Pelican says it weighed when new.

 

Best I can tell the floatation isn’t water logged, even when full of water for years. It seems to float and motor around no problem although I have yet to try fishing out of it.

You're quite blessed that your foam is not water logged. Congrats on the new boat.

[Alan Land]

I have one, I got a bass boat seat and replaced the factory one. I go alone, so I only need one seat,  Lots more comfortable. As to the anchor, I just put an eye bolt through the plastic upper lip, where the molded compartments are on top, sides. Just used lots of caulk around the bolt/washer. Seems to work ok.