Leland King Posted August 29, 2019 Posted August 29, 2019 hey guys what do I need to complete that positive terminal wire? pic attached Quote
@reelChris Posted September 1, 2019 Posted September 1, 2019 What's the better choice between a lightly used late model pond hopper with 45lb endura Maxx motor and an older bass hound with 30lb Minn kota trolling motor, 2 stroke Evinrude, and trailer, if both were priced close to $1000? Quote
@reelChris Posted September 3, 2019 Posted September 3, 2019 On 9/1/2019 at 1:43 AM, @reelChris said: What's the better choice between a lightly used late model pond hopper with 45lb endura Maxx motor and an older bass hound with 30lb Minn kota trolling motor, 2 stroke Evinrude, and trailer, if both were priced close to $1000? While we're at it - add the bass tender 11.3 into the equation, also with older electric and gas motors, but no trailer. Â Â Quote
@reelChris Posted September 9, 2019 Posted September 9, 2019 Wow.  121 pages and nine years of posts, and I killed the thread with two questions!  In hope of restarting this discussion, I ended up answering myself by going with none of the options mentioned above.  I found an older Sun Dolphin 120 that came loaded with outboard, gas tanks, foot controlled trolling motor, battery, fish finder, life preservers and trailer.  It has some tears in the seats, dings and ugly plastic repairs, but I'm pleased with the deal overall.  That being said, does anyone know if cracks like these can be fixed?  Someone obviously tried to hoist the boat by the rails and cracked the plastic where the rails insert on both sides. Quote
FishingInSC Posted September 15, 2019 Posted September 15, 2019 On 9/8/2019 at 10:53 PM, @reelChris said: Wow.  121 pages and nine years of posts, and I killed the thread with two questions!  In hope of restarting this discussion, I ended up answering myself by going with none of the options mentioned above.  I found an older Sun Dolphin 120 that came loaded with outboard, gas tanks, foot controlled trolling motor, battery, fish finder, life preservers and trailer.  It has some tears in the seats, dings and ugly plastic repairs, but I'm pleased with the deal overall.  That being said, does anyone know if cracks like these can be fixed?  Someone obviously tried to hoist the boat by the rails and cracked the plastic where the rails insert on both sides. I would think it could be repaired. I've never had to do it, but I'd say try JB Weld or go on you tube and look at videos on "plastic welding." Good luck and happy fishing!! Quote
FishinDinks Posted October 4, 2019 Posted October 4, 2019 Anyone put kayak rail systems like yakattack geartrac on their plastic boats? If so how well did it work for you?  I am think of mounting my transducer and fish finder on them. 1 Quote
Hi-Powered Red Neck Posted November 15, 2019 Posted November 15, 2019 Hey there guy's and gal's. I've been away from the thread for a while. I've done quite a bit of fishing from the Raider. I must say, I love my 10E. No new mods keeping it pretty simple. 3/8" plywood floor with harbor freight anti fatigue mat glued to the wood and covered with gray outdoor carpet. 32lb minn kota on the front, group 29 deep cycle in the back and a Bigfoot switch screwed to the floor. I have a small garmin fish finder with a scotty mount for the transducer. A 7" seat riser and a comfortable seat. Just the basics. I keep the boat in the water. I have a small pond behind my house. The best mod I've done was adding a drain hole in the stern. I picked up a thru hull filling at West Marine used the correct size hole saw, a bit of 5200 and bam no more water in the floor. The reel pockets on the other hand... Can't have everything. I've taken the boat to several lakes in my area. The only problem I've run into is fishing flooded timber. Running one pontoon up on a submerged stump can be a bit unnerving. Add in wind and chop and it can make for a bad day. For the most part I pick my days, windy days I stay home. If the wind starts to pick up, I'm headed to the truck. I caught lots of fish out of my Raider and plan on catching lots more. 2 Quote
Ronaldo Posted December 28, 2019 Posted December 28, 2019 Hello all, I just purchased an older pelican 10e and the floor is bubbled upwards in the front portion of the boat. considering boiling water with towels. The bubbled area is considerably softer and more flexible than the rest of the boat so I’m somewhat concerned that its irreparable. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. Quote
OCdockskipper Posted January 3, 2020 Posted January 3, 2020 On 12/28/2019 at 5:55 AM, Ronaldo said: Hello all, I just purchased an older pelican 10e and the floor is bubbled upwards in the front portion of the boat. considering boiling water with towels. The bubbled area is considerably softer and more flexible than the rest of the boat so I’m somewhat concerned that its irreparable. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. If the bubbling is just the plastic, I would install a floorboard made from marine plywood and covered in carpet. That will distribute weight more evenly across the bottom of the boat and not directly on that bubbling spot (as well as make the bottom of the boat look nicer aesthetically).  If it is more than just the plastic, if the structure of the boat underneath has been compromised, then I would say it is irreparable. Quote
Hi-Powered Red Neck Posted January 12, 2020 Posted January 12, 2020 On 12/28/2019 at 7:55 AM, Ronaldo said: Hello all, I just purchased an older pelican 10e and the floor is bubbled upwards in the front portion of the boat. considering boiling water with towels. The bubbled area is considerably softer and more flexible than the rest of the boat so I’m somewhat concerned that its irreparable. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. How big is the bubbled area? Most of the guy's on this thread have, some sort of floor in the boat. I personally have a 3/8" piece of plywood with harbor freight anti fatigue mat glued down and covered with gray outdoor carpet from Lowes. Very comfortable to stand on especially barefoot. I know this is not the fix answer you were looking for. But if you can can cover it. Outta sight, outta mind. 1 Quote
Hi-Powered Red Neck Posted January 12, 2020 Posted January 12, 2020 On 1/3/2020 at 2:34 AM, Angler102 said: I have the bass raider 10 E and I regularly have myself 5'11 200 lbs and my brother(same weight) and we get around no problem with a 40lb thrust minn kota and a large deep cell battery from walmart. I usually pack the boat with a large cooler, 4 rods, tackle box, and I have never had a problem. I would like to go faster, so I am going to get an outboard at some point..Maybe a 3.5hp Tohatsu/Nissan or 2.5hp Suzuki..not sure yet.. If memory serves me correctly the Raider is rated for a 3.5. With that said I'd be very wary of flex in the transom. These boats will flex a great deal with a gas motor. This is one time I will say less is more. Personally I wouldn't put much more than a 55lb TM on mine. Right now I'm running a 32lb Minn Kota on the front. I plan to up grade to a 55lb but I'm a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" guy. My trusty old 32 has been on several boats in the 20 years that I've owned it. It just won't die. Quote
Hi-Powered Red Neck Posted January 12, 2020 Posted January 12, 2020 On 10/4/2019 at 4:55 PM, FishinDinks said: Anyone put kayak rail systems like yakattack geartrac on their plastic boats? If so how well did it work for you?  I am think of mounting my transducer and fish finder on them. I used a Scottie mount for my transducer. I secured the mounting block to the rear motor mount plate. I simply pulled one of the bolts out. Went to Ace and got a longer bolt and utilized the existing hole. The block is very secure even thou it's only held on by 1 bolt. The arm attaches to the block and has a break away clutch that allow the transducer arm to kick up if it hits something. It does't self return but it's easy to push back down and your transducer doesn't get damaged. Quote
Hi-Powered Red Neck Posted January 12, 2020 Posted January 12, 2020  Whats up Bass Raider fans? Well Christmas and New Years have come and gone. I hope everyone had a wonderful holiday season. Hopefully Santa filled all your fishing gear needs. I keep myself pretty stocked up on fishing gear so my Christmas list was short this year, at least in the tackle department. I did get a new reel, so now I need a new rod to go with it. LOL For the Raider I asked for a Millennium stainless boat seat, and Santa delivered. I am impressed with its construction and comfort. Now just so you know, me and the Pelican 10E and saw a bunch of fishing in 2019.  I got the boat for Christmas Last year. I've made a few basic upgrades that can be found on this thread back in February of last year. For a seat I was using a 7" riser and a cheap camo folding seat from Wal-Mart. I fished around 50 days last year and the seat was shot. I pulled it off and replaced it with the new Millennium seat. Put it in the boat and sat down. Wow what a difference. Only problem was with the 7" riser and sitting in the seat my feet wouldn't touch the floor. I pulled the riser out and was pleasantly surprised to know I no longer needed the riser. The seat Is high enough and much deeper. This lowers the center of gravity back down a bit. I'm still in a higher seated position than I was using other seat. Which was the cause of me using riser in the first place. I can sit and stand as easily as I could with the riser seat and I gained back the stability I lost installing the riser. I'll post a picture when I get back home. Quote
ahersch Posted January 27, 2020 Posted January 27, 2020 You can raise the seat without using store-bought pedestals. Just add a short block of wood between the seat and the frame, and use longer bolts. Each short piece of 2x6 adds 1.5 inches of height. You don't even need to drill through the wood if you position it right. You might be surprised how a few inches of seat height raises the comfort level. Quote
jeffh129 Posted January 30, 2020 Posted January 30, 2020 What does the Pelican Bass Raider 10e retail for ? I just saw one on the Walmart website for $1,299.00 marked down from $1,700.00. Is that a mistake? I thought Dicks sold them for about $650.00.  Quote
Super User MN Fisher Posted January 30, 2020 Super User Posted January 30, 2020 2 minutes ago, jeffh129 said: What does the Pelican Bass Raider 10e retail for ? I just saw one on the Walmart website for $1,299.00 marked down from $1,700.00. Is that a mistake? I thought Dicks sold them for about $650.00.  Dunno about DSG - but you can get them direct from Pelican for under a grand. https://www.pelicansport.com/us_en/bass-raider-10e 1 Quote
Super User J Francho Posted January 30, 2020 Super User Posted January 30, 2020 Most places have them at $650 Quote
Neil Stevenson Posted February 17, 2020 Posted February 17, 2020 Finally took the plunge and picked up a Bass Raider 10E today. Sold a kayak last weekend cuz I just needed a little more room to move around. Have looked through here and picked up some awesome tips. Next steps are to put in some kind of lightweight floor mat and find a trolling motor & battery. No room to keep a trailer so I'll be horsing it in/out of the truck and hand launching by my lonesome; obviously keeping weight down will be a theme for me so I'll be somewhat of a "minimalist" and go with the basics. First decision is whether to mount the TM on the bow or stern. I see pros and cons for each. Either way, can't wait til I can get this beast on the water!!! 2 Quote
Tuna Posted February 17, 2020 Posted February 17, 2020 Recommend bow vs. stern. Pulling easier to navigate and ~15% more usable power than pushing. Quote
Neil Stevenson Posted February 20, 2020 Posted February 20, 2020 On 2/17/2020 at 8:03 AM, Tuna said: Recommend bow vs. stern. Pulling easier to navigate and ~15% more usable power than pushing. Tuna, good to know, thank you! Quote
choppertime Posted February 24, 2020 Posted February 24, 2020 Does anyone use millennium boat seats? If so do they mount to the swivel plate that comes with the boat or do you need new plates. Also what's the preferred anchor system you use? Quote
Neil Stevenson Posted February 25, 2020 Posted February 25, 2020 Hello folks, wanted to ask some super basic guidance on hooking up the trolling motor using the plug on the bow. For weight distribution I want to put the battery in the back so I can stay close to the front. I'm not an electrical whiz so want to make sure I'm doing this right. Got the 55 lb thrust motor. Is the factory wiring adequate to handle it or does anyone recommend rewiring with a thicker gauge? Also, is a 3 prong plug easily spliced into the motor's wiring with some shrink wrap connectors? Other recommended tips for putting on a plug? Quote
choppertime Posted February 25, 2020 Posted February 25, 2020 Hi Neil, invest in the minn kota trolling motor battery box,its got your needs covered as far as circuit protection goes.....it has circuit breakers built in...plus extras.....I would take an ohm meter and see which wires are the positive and negative in the front connector and get the proper individual connector to attach wiring to front connector from trolling motor.....the included wiring is adequate for your needs.....wish I was there to help you out......I worked at car dealerships for 40 plus years.....you only need 2 wires as the battery is the only ground for electricity (plastic boat) positive and negative.......I dont have my trolling motor in the front or battery up there either....my g/f complains it's in her way lol....I'm retired now so I can leave her azz at work and go fish......send me a PM if you have questions or feel unsure about hooking up the trolling motor! Quote
Neil Stevenson Posted February 25, 2020 Posted February 25, 2020 4 hours ago, choppertime said: Hi Neil, invest in the minn kota trolling motor battery box,its got your needs covered as far as circuit protection goes.....it has circuit breakers built in...plus extras.....I would take an ohm meter and see which wires are the positive and negative in the front connector and get the proper individual connector to attach wiring to front connector from trolling motor.....the included wiring is adequate for your needs.....wish I was there to help you out......I worked at car dealerships for 40 plus years.....you only need 2 wires as the battery is the only ground for electricity (plastic boat) positive and negative.......I dont have my trolling motor in the front or battery up there either....my g/f complains it's in her way lol....I'm retired now so I can leave her azz at work and go fish......send me a PM if you have questions or feel unsure about hooking up the trolling motor! Choppertime, very authoritative, I think I'll go and grab a battery box. I guess I'm not smart enough to figure out how to PM you, but I'll keep looking. I wasn't exactly sure what you meant about the connectors. But do you think this should do the trick? https://www.amazon.com/SEACHOICE-13751-Trolling-Motor-Straight/dp/B000N9MF92/ref=sr_1_18?dchild=1&keywords=trolling+motor+3+prong+plug&qid=1582653610&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-18 Quote
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