Any Pelican Bass Raider Owners Out There?

[Reyn]

Chris,

I can only answer your third question. Where the control head meets the shaft of your T motor, look for a screw. Loosen or remove that screw and you should be able to turn the head 180 degrees. Then tighten the screw back up and then you will be able to mount it on the bow transom and run it as normal for forward and reverse. Think about mounting a rudder in the rear to help it track better without constantly making directional adjustments.

Hope this helps you.

[coachfozz]

http://www.basspro.com/Humminbird-110-Fishin-Buddy-Ultimate-Portable-Fishfinder/product/97460/

 

This one should work with your father-in-law's boat.

[woody osborne]

guys   I have problems with my trolling motor "walking" up the  mounting plate when I use higher power. motor is a motorguide T34. I am going to put a 1" wood board on it today and see if that makes any difference. I haven't been able to put motor down into the last notch on the tilt so it is a few degrees off from perpendicular. the problem there is interference at outside of boat. I may try putting one on inside AND outside to gain the clearance I need.

     if the board/s doesn't fix problem has anybody drilled  through mounting plates for a fix with a mounting plate concoction? I can't help but wonder if the tilt has something to do with the walking problem. thanks in advance and I am off with 250 waxworms on my vacation to terrorize bluegills and maybe some perch.

[basshead1]

guys   I have problems with my trolling motor "walking" up the  mounting plate when I use higher power. motor is a motorguide T34. I am going to put a 1" wood board on it today and see if that makes any difference. I haven't been able to put motor down into the last notch on the tilt so it is a few degrees off from perpendicular. the problem there is interference at outside of boat. I may try putting one on inside AND outside to gain the clearance I need.

     if the board/s doesn't fix problem has anybody drilled  through mounting plates for a fix with a mounting plate concoction? I can't help but wonder if the tilt has something to do with the walking problem. thanks in advance and I am off with 250 waxworms on my vacation to terrorize bluegills and maybe some perch.

It happened to me too but only if it was turned to the side, then 1 end kicks up and the motor leans a bit. I cut out some rubber from an old inner tube and glued it onto the end of the screw holder thingamajigs and it sticks nice now, before it was metal on metal.

[woody osborne]

guys   I have problems with my trolling motor "walking" up the  mounting plate when I use higher power.

It happened to me too but only if it was turned to the side, then 1 end kicks up and the motor leans a bit. I cut out some rubber from an old inner tube and glued it onto the end of the screw holder thingamajigs and it sticks nice now, before it was metal on metal.

 

thanks for rubber tip. I did make one change that helped but didn't solve problem completely. I put the motor on while boat was in bed of truck and get it level as I could then tightened rigorously. didn't move for a long time but gradually loosened and have to be retightened. I will see about getting some rubber pads put on it. I

    I didn't have room to put an 1" piece of wood to allow motor to seat perpendicular to boat. I am thinking that will make a difference as well. looking for a thinner piece of wood.

 

[Reyn]

Woody,

I have two suggestions. 1) Tighten the clamps down as tight as you possibly can. 2) I have a 45 thrust TM and I found out the hard way that you should go from stop or slow to full speed slowly (gradually). Going straight to top speed will cause the clamp to walk up on one side or completely come off of the transom at full speed. Not fun!

[RSM789]

When I first began considering a small boat, I found this thread in a google search.  What a great source of information & ideas.  Last month, I ended up buying a 10 ft. Pond Prowler and have done a few of the modifications mentioned, with more on the to-do list.  Unfortunately, fishing keeps getting in the way of working on the boat

 

I chose the 10 ft. model over an 8 for space, even though most of my fishing is done alone.  I had been using a small paddleboat previously & while I could fit the 6 rods, 2 tackle boxes & 2 worm bags in it, I really tired of being cramped.  IMO, the extra 2 feet make a world of difference and allow a 2nd person to come along without being on top of each other.

 

I already had a 45lb thrust Motorguide TM, I just switched the head & mounted it on the bow (the PP was prewired for stern battery & bow motor).  The back of the boat did indeed swing a bit, but when I added the rudder as suggested, it completely changed.  If you are maneuvering the boat & casting to targets (as opposed to still fishing or trolling), bow mounted with a rudder will give you the most precise control & most stealthy movement.  For the rudder, I used an old trolling motor with the head removed & motor cut off and added a plexiglass rudder (I don't have any welding experience).  I convinced myself that the clear plexiglass gives the fish one less thing to see poking into the water .  The mount attaches easily to the stern & can be lifted up in shallow water.

 

I also already had a Hummingbird Fishing Buddy 120 depth finder, which I also bow mounted to the left of the TM.  The Pond Prowlers have a more square front than the Bass Raiders, so the portable mount attached simply.  I put it to the left to keep it out of the way because I am right handed and prefer to cast from the starboard (right) side of the boat when moving along a shoreline.  I find it a more natural motion when side arm casting ahead of the boat or skipping under docks.

 

In the back with the Voyager deep cycle battery is a collapsible oar & small anchor.  I will most likely mount it the oar like others have, but not sure if I want it outside of the boat.  Up front I added a Big Foot switch for the TM.  I have used both switches & foot controls in the past & for a small boat while sitting, the Big Foot is actually easier to use.  A foot control is a necessity for a full size bass boat, but a bit cumbersome these smaller ones.  Since the boat is docked at my brothers house, there was no need for a trailer, but I did get a cover from BPS.  Works well so far, & will stretch over the raised TM & depth finder mount.

 

Y'all have convinced me to do the floor modification.  The plastic does get hot & in the summer, I prefer to be barefoot in the boat.  For now I just placed a towel down near the Big Foot, but a boat full of either marine carpet or that other stuff someone posted 40 pages back will be much better.  Although the raised casting decks look real cool, I think I am going to stick with the current rail system & seats (padded & folding).  One of the benefits of these little boats is the stealth and sitting a few inches lower helps in clear water situations. 

 

Now the best part of this never-ending first post.  After the initial modifications, I took the boat out for the first time 3 weeks ago.  In the first 30 minutes, I caught 7 bass, including five in six casts.  A few minutes later, I had another soft peck on my Roboworm, set the hook & watched 20 yards of line get peeled off the reel.  At first I thought it was a catfish, for we have a bunch of big ones here that love grabbing our plastics & crankbaits.  Instead, a big green head & gapping mouth broke the surface and I realized I had hooked a pig.  After I landed her, I quickly went back to my brothers house, woke him out of a deep sleep & made him take a picture of me with her.  She was 8lbs even and a beautiful fish, perfect coloring with no marks on her.  She seemed no worse for the wear as she swam away & I realized what a great way to christen a boat!!

 

The next 2 times I took the boat out, I had 50 fish days.  I really believe the boat had a lot to do with it, for it truly allowed me to position myself as I needed easily without alerting the fish.  Remember, I was using a paddleboat before that, which served its purpose but in no way was designed for stalking largemouths.  The right tools for the job make a huge difference.

 

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, it really made a difference for me.

 

 

 

[RSM789]

Oh yeah, here is a picture of my rudder.  It isn't as trick as the one that came from the Hobie cat, but it was simple to make and does a good job.

 

 

[coachfozz]

Very nice, my buddy and I are going t get his boat out sometime soon so I can get a look at it.  We are going to go together, but I will mostly be fishing by myself since he has a 16 foot Lund.

 

I am already designing modifications already on how I want the boat to look.  

[bassinOUT89]

Curious, since i prefer having the trolling motor in the back, would a rudder at the bow work or would that affect the steering?

[bassinOUT89]

It's for a sun dolphin 8ft boat. Similar to a bass raider.

[RSM789]

Curious, since i prefer having the trolling motor in the back, would a rudder at the bow work or would that affect the steering?

I don't believe a rudder in the bow would accomplish much. 

 

The issue we run into with the TM on the bow is that when you attempt to turn, the stern tends to swing as opposed to the front turning.  I believe it has to do with the motor pulling the boat & not having any resistance to pivot off of.  With the rudder in the stern, the boat pivots off the rudder & the front is dragged wherever you aim the motor.  It really works well when positioning yourself or moving down a shoreline casting.

 

 With the TM in the back, you are pushing the boat, so it pivots off the motor.  You probably notice that when you go in reverse with the motor in the rear, the boat swings all over.

[nimbus2065]

Does anyone know if there are any clubs in New jersey for boaters like us? I saw a video about one in oklahoma www.okminiboattube.com, looks like a ton of fun.

[Iceman71]

I'd like to find one here in Central Ohio too.

[Ronbo]

Anybody ever notice how the Igloo Marine 48 qt. cooler fits this boat like it was made for it?

[Iceman71]

Took the boat out on Saturday. Very nice boat, had a trolling motor on the front and back. Primary on front, rear one just to help prevent swing.... didn't work like I hoped. Pretty windy, decided to make a rudder for it. Cant wait to try it now with the rudder attached.

[pointhunter75]

I still can't figure out how I want to make a Rudder.... Want it to be break proof. Maybe with a hinge and spring to pull it back down after hitting something.

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

These boats have such a shallow draft I don't even worry about it. I would make it with a hinge so you can get it out of the way if you bush whacking. 

[ArtieD]

Hello, I'm a new member with a Raider 10e but am considering purchasing a used Twin Troller X10. Any members own one or have much experience with the x10?

[Pond fisher]

Iceman,  I made a rudder from Plexiglas.  Attached to my rear trolling motor.  It works great!

[Pond fisher]

What are warning points?

[Bozz]

What are warning points?

Pond Fisher, you can find this info in the FAQ's of the site. But here is the cut-n-paste of it:

 

What does "0 Warning Points" mean?

Warning points here are a bad thing to have. If you have them, It means you have done something against the forums rules to warrant getting either a warning or a suspension. 0 is the best number to have! (Note that only YOU can see your own warning points. Nobody else can see them, and you cannot view other member's warning points.)

[Pond fisher]

Thanks Bozz,

 

     My number is 0, so I guess I haven't ticked anyone off.

[ArtieD]

Having searched the internet for hours and finding little more than promotional info on the Twin Troller X10 I will post my review/observations from a used one I inspected today (no water test). My comparison is the Bass Raider 10e.

The x10 sits lower in the water and floor/storage area is 19.5 x 8' compared to 23 x 8' raider. I've had the raider on open water lakes, the x10 is small water only as the water line stain on the x10 and the owner will attest to. The hull and components are solid and sound. The particular x10 I inspected had many new spare parts, the important and costly ones, motors, blades, controller, wiring harnesses, seat covers, etc...

The used x10 was much newer and much more weathered than my Pelican, apparently the hull baked for a couple of summers, rode hard, put away wet... One motor was locked up/inop.

I walked away without making a counter offer, content my raider was a more versatile, much less expensive alternative.

[ArtieD]

Forgot to mention the x10 transom, it is much, much stronger than the Raider, were the boat not so diminutive and stood "prouder" in the water, a little better cared for, it would probably be in my backyard now. Also included in the pkg was a good 29 DC btry, working onboard charger and the trailer. Less than $2k and then some maybe...