Jim McC Posted July 8, 2011 Posted July 8, 2011 Would like to see a picture of that if possible. Did it sit the seat up higher? I don't know how to post a pic, but I'll see if my daughter can figure it out. Yes, it's a couple inches higher. What you do is remove the small U-bolts on the bottom of the Bass Raider's seats, and use them to mount the pedestal seat base to the seat frame. I also bought the pedestal seat base from Walmart. This allows me to use the same seat in my bigger boat and this one. Quote
Owasco Posted July 8, 2011 Posted July 8, 2011 I'm thinking about putting a gas motor on my 10E Raider. I have an opportunity to buy a 6 hp johnson which is over 10 years old but basically brand new. Old neighbor bought it and never used it. He wants $600 for it with the tank and lines. Or I was planning on picking up a 2.5 hp motor brand new. I'm a little worried that 6 hp might be too much power and weight and want to make sure the 2.5 hp will move me around at a nice clip. Any of you have gas motors on your raiders? On a side note, I would like to use the motor on my 16 foot glass tri-hull as a kicker as well. I think the 6 hp would be better for that. Quote
B-ASSman Posted July 9, 2011 Posted July 9, 2011 I put my transducer on the back right pontoon on my 8(used 3m 4200). I have the trolling motor in the back. I put the fish finder up in the front/right. The fish finder will run off of the small hummingbird portable battery, while the trolling motor will run off a deep-cycle. I didn't want wires all over the floor of the boat so I ran them under the side railing with 1/4" nylon wire clips. The transducer wire was going to be too long for me since I didn't want any slack. Once I got the wire half way around the boat I just laid the wire along the railing all the way up to the fish finder mount. I had 5 more feet then I wanted so I doubled up the wire 30" and used 3/8" clips here to allow all three wires to fit inside one clip. I did make one change after I took these pictures. I adjusted where I brought the cable on top of the side railing in the front inside the U shaped indention. This way I wont bust the cable if the front of the boat hits something. Ive decided to adopt this as well. Any updates on performance or other issues you may have run into? I am wondering how protected the transducer is at that level when moving the boat in and out of the water? How do you protect it from damage? Thanks Quote
B-ASSman Posted July 9, 2011 Posted July 9, 2011 I have never had my boat on Belton or Stillhouse. As for the water I cover, it depends. If it is dead calm I have no problem traveling up to 3/4 of a mile (only a guess, could be more or less) or so one way to hit a spot. When it is windy I fish the calm side of the lake. I rarely get more than a short distance from the bank, no further than I know I could swim. Genarally my trips range from 2-6 hours and I launch in an area I want to fish. Then I just thoroughly fish tht area. Here is an example of what one of my trip might consist of, the yellow line represents my travel. Hey Red- Wonderin if one could opt to use a drift sock or anchor instead of a rudder- Any experience with those ? I ask because I am plannin to back mount my trollin motor and a front rudder isnt so practical? Anybody else have any input on this - it'd be much appreciated. Quote
jaaron01 Posted July 9, 2011 Posted July 9, 2011 My advice is put the trolling motor up front, and find something to make a rudder for the back. Seems most trolling motors are better suited to pull, then push. Just my couple weeks experience, but seems at the lake those guys with the motor in the back are constantly fighting trying to keep the front end going were they want it to. I fish on a large electric only lake, so I see everything from canoe's to jon boats. I have no problem pointing my boat in whichever direction, with the rudder installed, she goes were I tell her to, expecially with a wind blowing, and the rear end follows. I was thinking of a drift sock as well, but no one seems to have any experience with them, or at least there not sharing. Quote
Red Posted July 10, 2011 Posted July 10, 2011 No experience with a drift sock. I have used an anchor. The mushroom kind did not hold at all with any kind of wind. The "grab" style grabbed too well and I had to cut the rope, twice with that style. Best bet, motor up front, batery in back, rudder in back. With this set up, I sit closer to the front, evens out the weight of the battery I think. Also, if your water levels are down, the fish aren't biting....head back into coves where people bank fish and big boats can't get to, look for shiney stuff in the cover and trees. I found $60 worth of hard baits in about a 30 foot stretch of bank the other day!! Cliff 3 Quote
twors Posted July 11, 2011 Posted July 11, 2011 Finally got my new Bass Hunter "Bass Baby" finished up. I've had her out for three outing so far and everything seems good. This boat has deeper skinnier toons and I find it tracks very well without the need for a rudder. I've outfitter the boat with a 55lb Minn Kota traxxis trolling motor with variable speed. I truely love the variable speed and tilt handle also allows to fish standing with good control of the trolling motor without bending over....I'am 6'1" and 235lb. If forced to buy again I probably would buy the 45lb model and save a hundred bucks. The design of this hull is not ment for speed and I think there is a point of disminishing returns when it comes to appling power to these boats. That said....my boat tops out at 3.4 mph on my garmin hand held GPS. The battery is a group 27 marine jobbie from wallyworld and to connected to trolling motor with 8 AWG wire and anderson connectors. I have a big foot switch for the trolling motor but haven't installed yet as I wanted to get the placement just right. These boats are all about weight and balance. It took me two trips to dial in on seat post location before installing the pedestal base. The floor was covered in .5 ply and carpet. The pedestal base is two pieces of .75 ply glued together....short power rise post and butt seat. Battery box is screwed to ply floor....no holes drilled into plastic hull as of yet. This boat has built in wheels to roll it around which is great however not so great trying to load into the truck by yourself as the boat wants to roll out before you can position yourself to lift the rear of the boat to slide into truck. I made a simple hook from a piece of stainless rod to hold the boat so I could reposition without having the boat slide out. I tried ramping the boat into the truck....no good, plastic wheels slide around the ramps. Takes far more energy than just dead lifting the thing in to the truck. I have plans for a trailer on down the road. Here are some pictures of my new rig.... 1 Quote
B-ASSman Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 Here are some pictures of my new rig.... Very Sharp Looking! Nicely done Funny- but I am fabricating a similar floor for mine- cept I was considering using the Ol' green indoor /outdoor turf instead of a marine carpet. I like the pedestal look too....but i need a high back to stay comfy How was it without the rudder- If only I had any welding skills.....i hate to spend that kind of money on scrap metal Quote
twors Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 I don't think I need a rudder on this boat. The toons are narrower compared to the other boats I looked at and the toons ride deep in the water. She seems to track well. The boat does not like white caps.....water will slash over the front and you will get wet....trust me on this one! My floor is .5 ply but I get add three 1X3 runners to the bottom to provide a air gap to help any moisture to evaporate. Quote
jaaron01 Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 Your boat must ride a little lower in the water than mine. I set a good foot above the water, and I've not had any thing come close to getting in the boat. Or your boat is much heavier than mine with the additional ply. Another thing I see is the front of your pontoons seem more block shaped, as mine are V shaped. Might be why water comes over the front. Quote
twors Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 My boat does ride low in the water....certainly no foot. The ply floor, pedestal seat and carpet probably added 40lbs over the stock seating setup. I was kinda concerned about weight but doesn't seem that big of a deal as this boat is fished with just me alone. The front of the toons are more square than others and I'am sure it has something to do with water over the front and my lower than expected speed of 3.4mph even with the mother of all trolling motors. Water over the front was from a nasty little storm that I got caught in about 600 yards away from the ramp. The wind picked up very fast and white capped the lake in just a few minutes....I was traveling aganist the wind, waves where taller than the boat and I did take on a couple gallons of water before reaching the ramp. I never felt in danger really other than the lightning of course. I never intended to operate this boat in these conditions but it did happen and will probably happen again at some time. She is no 20ft Ranger for sure but I like her all the same.... Quote
jaaron01 Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 I do like your setup with the carpet and seat, that looks awesome. Every trip I make out in my little boat, I come up with a new idea on the set-up. I'm just vetting ideas at this point to make sure its what I want, before I do much customization. Keep the photos com'in. Quote
Red Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 Finally got my new Bass Hunter "Bass Baby" finished up. I've had her out for three outing so far and everything seems good. This boat has deeper skinnier toons and I find it tracks very well without the need for a rudder. I've outfitter the boat with a 55lb Minn Kota traxxis trolling motor with variable speed. I truely love the variable speed and tilt handle also allows to fish standing with good control of the trolling motor without bending over....I'am 6'1" and 235lb. If forced to buy again I probably would buy the 45lb model and save a hundred bucks. The design of this hull is not ment for speed and I think there is a point of disminishing returns when it comes to appling power to these boats. That said....my boat tops out at 3.4 mph on my garmin hand held GPS. The battery is a group 27 marine jobbie from wallyworld and to connected to trolling motor with 8 AWG wire and anderson connectors. I have a big foot switch for the trolling motor but haven't installed yet as I wanted to get the placement just right. These boats are all about weight and balance. It took me two trips to dial in on seat post location before installing the pedestal base. The floor was covered in .5 ply and carpet. The pedestal base is two pieces of .75 ply glued together....short power rise post and butt seat. Battery box is screwed to ply floor....no holes drilled into plastic hull as of yet. This boat has built in wheels to roll it around which is great however not so great trying to load into the truck by yourself as the boat wants to roll out before you can position yourself to lift the rear of the boat to slide into truck. I made a simple hook from a piece of stainless rod to hold the boat so I could reposition without having the boat slide out. I tried ramping the boat into the truck....no good, plastic wheels slide around the ramps. Takes far more energy than just dead lifting the thing in to the truck. I have plans for a trailer on down the road. Here are some pictures of my new rig.... Very nice job!! I have considered adding a pedestal seat like you did. I am pretty happy with my rig as it is though so I haven't put much thought into it. I got caught in a storm once like you did. I had enough water in the boat I had to empty it and flip it. I couldn't lift it onto the truck....too heavy! Quote
B-ASSman Posted July 13, 2011 Posted July 13, 2011 [ This boat has built in wheels to roll it around which is great however not so great trying to load into the truck by yourself as the boat wants to roll out before you can position yourself to lift the rear of the boat to slide into truck. I made a simple hook from a piece of stainless rod to hold the boat so I could reposition without having the boat slide out. I tried ramping the boat into the truck....no good, plastic wheels slide around the ramps. Regarding loading into the pickup I am making 2 - 7ft long 4x8's wrapped with carpet to assist ramping/sliding my rig into the bed if u used them on edge it might prop high enough to eliminate the wheel problem u have Quote
Mikeandwife91 Posted July 16, 2011 Posted July 16, 2011 Hi guys, Mike here. I got the wife a 10ft. Pelican for Christmas (honest, that's what she wanted). I wanted to tell everyone about a tool out there that makes adding things to your boat a piece of cake. It is called a Rivnut Tool. It installs a threaded insert into the plastic (or metal) just like you were putting a pop rivet in there, except you can screw a bolt into it. You place a Rivnut in the tool and put it into a hole drilled the same size as the nut. You then squeeze the handle together like a rivet gun and it compresses the nut so that it sandwiches the plastic between the Rivnut. It cannot spin either. I have put a few things in such as an oar holder and rod holders without any screws going into just plastic. You can put a nut in as small as an 8-32 or as big as a 1/4". I use 10-24 and 1/4" for most of my stuff. I got mine at Mcmaster Carr, but Grainger carries them. Here in Ohio, I have seen them at Menards for about 15 bucks and that gives you a small amount of Rivnuts. Once you have one of those guns, you will find yourself using them all over the place. Hope this helps a few of you. Great pics on the post also. It gave me a few ideas on some more improvements on my wife's boat. Have a great time on the lake. 2 Quote
BassinNCstyle Posted July 16, 2011 Posted July 16, 2011 Is it true bass raider has no handles? Does this not make it harder to carry? Quote
dman Posted July 16, 2011 Posted July 16, 2011 Is it true bass raider has no handles? Does this not make it harder to carry? not true, i have the 8E model and it has 2 handles on each side. I believe the handles on the 10 footer are on the ends and not the sides but i could be wrong on that. 1 Quote
Red Posted July 16, 2011 Posted July 16, 2011 My Raider 8 only has two handles, one on each side, one front one back. It also has molded in the plastic "handles" on each end. Anyone got any good rod storage ideas? I would love to bring all 8 of my rigs when I go, but just can't carry them. I can bring four comfortably, five is pushin it. Quote
Jim McC Posted July 17, 2011 Posted July 17, 2011 My Raider 8 only has two handles, one on each side, one front one back. It also has molded in the plastic "handles" on each end. Anyone got any good rod storage ideas? I would love to bring all 8 of my rigs when I go, but just can't carry them. I can bring four comfortably, five is pushin it. 8 rods? I don't even own 8 rods. I use a plastic milk carton with 1.25" PVC pipe for the rod holders. I have one in each corner of the crate, and secure them to the carton with plastic zip ties. You could probably fit a couple more, but with 8, the reels would probably be smacking each other. Quote
Red Posted July 17, 2011 Posted July 17, 2011 Yeah I have seen the milk crate idea. My problem is that I get right up in the trash alot and can't really have rods sticking up high and stuff. What I should have said is horizontal rod storage. LOL, like I really need eight rods in the boat. I just hate leaving them on the rack! Cliff Quote
cBooms@SML Posted July 18, 2011 Posted July 18, 2011 I'm thinking about putting a gas motor on my 10E Raider. I have an opportunity to buy a 6 hp johnson which is over 10 years old but basically brand new. Old neighbor bought it and never used it. He wants $600 for it with the tank and lines. Or I was planning on picking up a 2.5 hp motor brand new. I'm a little worried that 6 hp might be too much power and weight and want to make sure the 2.5 hp will move me around at a nice clip. Any of you have gas motors on your raiders? On a side note, I would like to use the motor on my 16 foot glass tri-hull as a kicker as well. I think the 6 hp would be better for that. 2.5 hp for the small boat. i have a 3.3 and its too much power for the boat, even though its rated for a 3.5 Quote
Midnight Splash2 Posted July 18, 2011 Posted July 18, 2011 <br />2.5 hp for the small boat. i have a 3.3 and its too much power for the boat, even though its rated for a 3.5<br /><br Post up a video of that 3.3 with full throttle! Quote
B-ASSman Posted July 20, 2011 Posted July 20, 2011 Yeah I have seen the milk crate idea. My problem is that I get right up in the trash alot and can't really have rods sticking up high and stuff. What I should have said is horizontal rod storage. LOL, like I really need eight rods in the boat. I just hate leaving them on the rack! Cliff What do ya think of these? They hold from ceiling typically so they should work flat. 1 per side = 8 total rod capacity http://www.basspro.com/Berkley-Twist-Lock-Horizontal-Rod-Rack/product/15992/-261276 berkeley even makes a 6 rod version if u wanna keep it only to one side and max out number Quote
B-ASSman Posted July 20, 2011 Posted July 20, 2011 Yeah I have seen the milk crate idea. My problem is that I get right up in the trash alot and can't really have rods sticking up high and stuff. What I should have said is horizontal rod storage. LOL, like I really need eight rods in the boat. I just hate leaving them on the rack! Cliff or these... http://www.basspro.com/Rod-Rack-N-Go-Rod-Storage-and-Carry-System/product/55181/-1031942?cmCat=CROSSSELL_PRODUCT Quote
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