Powering a kayak- Battery box/options

[dgkasper58]

Got a great deal on a Garmin 93 uhd.  Looking to put it on my sportsman 120 pdl. 

 

Looking to find a nice Powerbox that is easily removed from either front hatch or under the seat.  

 

Probably looking at a lithium 20ah sized battery.

[immortl]

Strictly pre-built or open to DIY?  Conceptually, you can acquire a waterproof/resistant box, put in the battery of your choice, maybe a little foam to hold it in place in the box and attach fused leads over to the quick connect of your choice and maybe even a usb port or two. The box, fused leads, quick connect, and usb port should all be a few bucks each.   Then it's up to you how much you want to spend on the battery.

[Bankc]

Why do you need a battery box?  The same technology that keeps the electrolyte from leaking out of the battery keeps the water and gunk from leaking inside.  And at 12v DC, shorting from water exposure shouldn't be a problem.  And certainly not in freshwater.  

 

I have one for a 7AH SLA battery that I DIY'ed out of an ammo box.  I still use it because it's designed to mount to my kayak behind my seat.  But for the various deep cycle batteries that I've used for my trolling motor, I just leave them as is and have never had a problem.  

 

Now if you need one for some reason, especially if your looking at a 20Ah which is a weird size that might be hard to find an aftermarket battery box for, DIY is probably your best option.  

[immortl]

37 minutes ago, Bankc said:

<snip>...  And at 12v DC, shorting from water exposure shouldn't be a problem.  And certainly not in freshwater.  </snip>

I often wondered about that.  I was curious what would happen if say the kayak rolled and the batteries were under the water.  Good to know, thanks for pointing that out.

[dgkasper58]

1 hour ago, Bankc said:

Why do you need a battery box?  The same technology that keeps the electrolyte from leaking out of the battery keeps the water and gunk from leaking inside.  And at 12v DC, shorting from water exposure shouldn't be a problem.  And certainly not in freshwater.  

 

I have one for a 7AH SLA battery that I DIY'ed out of an ammo box.  I still use it because it's designed to mount to my kayak behind my seat.  But for the various deep cycle batteries that I've used for my trolling motor, I just leave them as is and have never had a problem.  

 

Now if you need one for some reason, especially if your looking at a 20Ah which is a weird size that might be hard to find an aftermarket battery box for, DIY is probably your best option.  

Don't need.  Just thought it would be easier to take the case out to charge the battery as I needed from 1 "port", instead of undoing and redoing the wires so often while just grabbing the battery out of it.  I'm looking for options as I have never used one before like I said so watching videos and getting some ideas with what will work for me.

[casts_by_fly]

2 hours ago, dgkasper58 said:

Got a great deal on a Garmin 93 uhd.  Looking to put it on my sportsman 120 pdl. 

 

Looking to find a nice Powerbox that is easily removed from either front hatch or under the seat.  

 

Probably looking at a lithium 20ah sized battery.

 

 

1 minute ago, dgkasper58 said:

Don't need.  Just thought it would be easier to take the case out to charge the battery as I needed from 1 "port", instead of undoing and redoing the wires so often while just grabbing the battery out of it.  I'm looking for options as I have never used one before like I said so watching videos and getting some ideas with what will work for me.

 

You don't need a box if you don't want it.  My 30 AH is velcroed to the inside of the hull along with all of the fuses and wires.  It hasn't moved in 2 years and doesn't show any signs of damage even though water does get inside the hull.  I think the PDL is even more water tight too.  Not sure if you've picked out a charger, but the genius series has interchangeable ends.  Get a set of ring terminals and cut the rings off.  The just wire the charger wires to the same clip as your fish finder wires.  When you get home you don't take the battery out of the boat- just plug it in.

 

 

 

[flyfisher]

I'll echo the ease of charging sentiment on here as well.  I used to run a box for my kayak motor batteries but recently switched to just leave them open with no issiues so far.  I also have mine set up with trolling motor plugs so I just plug my trolling motor plug in for the charger and I am good to go.  Lots of options out there.

[Bankc]

1 hour ago, immortl said:

I often wondered about that.  I was curious what would happen if say the kayak rolled and the batteries were under the water.  Good to know, thanks for pointing that out.

Most sealed batteries should handle getting splashed.  The vented (flooded) lead acid batteries won't handle getting submerged, but they won't like getting turned upside-down or on their sides either.  And some lithium batteries are rated IP67, which is probably about what most battery boxes will be rated.  And even most lithium batteries not rated as waterproof will come in the same sealed housing as the ones that are rated as being waterproof, hinting that maybe most will have some water resistance capabilities.  It's probably just that the manufacturer doesn't want warranty against it, so they don't advertise it.  IP67 is only for submersion up to 1 meter deep and for only up to 1/2 an hour.  And keep in mind that's calm water with a soft immersion.  If you drop it from a height or subject it to waves, you'll be exerting a lot more force onto it than a simple 1 meter submersion.  

 

So a quick roll over should be fine.  If your kayak rolls over and stays that way for a while, it could be a problem.  If it falls off the kayak and sinks to the bottom of the lake, then it's probably toast.  

[dgkasper58]

20 hours ago, casts_by_fly said:

 

 

 

You don't need a box if you don't want it.  My 30 AH is velcroed to the inside of the hull along with all of the fuses and wires.  It hasn't moved in 2 years and doesn't show any signs of damage even though water does get inside the hull.  I think the PDL is even more water tight too.  Not sure if you've picked out a charger, but the genius series has interchangeable ends.  Get a set of ring terminals and cut the rings off.  The just wire the charger wires to the same clip as your fish finder wires.  When you get home you don't take the battery out of the boat- just plug it in.

 

 

 

 

19 hours ago, flyfisher said:

I'll echo the ease of charging sentiment on here as well.  I used to run a box for my kayak motor batteries but recently switched to just leave them open with no issiues so far.  I also have mine set up with trolling motor plugs so I just plug my trolling motor plug in for the charger and I am good to go.  Lots of options out there.

 

Thanks.  I do keep my kayak out in the shed when not in use that gets HOT. I thought by removing them it would help longevity.  I do have power in the shed so that definitely is an option.  

 

I was kind of thinking about using the battery for a separate graph on a boat and for an ice shuttle as well, so wanted to use the battery for as many things as I could.  

[Zcoker]

I used an appropriately sized waterproof plastic case for my Garmin, similar to the Pelican 1050 or the Plano products. I cut out a piece of foam to accommodate the shape of the battery and put it inside the case. I keep the case under the front hatch on my Old Town. I ran the wire cable through a  rubber grommet on the side of the case. The battery also powers the running lights. The case is watertight, so never any issues with moisture. 

[casts_by_fly]

22 hours ago, dgkasper58 said:

 

 

Thanks.  I do keep my kayak out in the shed when not in use that gets HOT. I thought by removing them it would help longevity.  I do have power in the shed so that definitely is an option.  

 

I was kind of thinking about using the battery for a separate graph on a boat and for an ice shuttle as well, so wanted to use the battery for as many things as I could.  

 

Plenty of options depending what you want to ultimately do.  If you're going to swap it often between the kayak and a boat then a box probably makes sense.  Mine is velcro'd down and its down tight.  I wouldn't want to remove and replace it all the time.

 

In that case, (pun fully intended) a pelican imitation box and put some SAE plugs on the ends of everything.  That's an easy solution with standard connections that are made to be removed often.  Then you'll just need to add a bungee or something else to hold the case in the hatch.

 

https://www.amazon.com/muyimu-Connector-Extension-Weatherproof-Generator/dp/B083R93SLW/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=2+pin+SAE+plugs&qid=1682086562&sr=8-8

[Motoboss]

I use a Nacqua for my Hummingbird Helix 7 and another for the YakPower light system. No issues

[dgkasper58]

On 4/21/2023 at 6:00 PM, Motoboss said:

I use a Nacqua for my Hummingbird Helix 7 and another for the YakPower light system. No issues

Why do you keep them separate if you're using the relay?

[Motoboss]

On 4/25/2023 at 2:37 PM, dgkasper58 said:

Why do you keep them separate if you're using the relay?

My Helix 7 is on a YakAttack CellBlock so I can remove it easily for river fishing. The YakPower is for lights, charge plug accessories run thru the yak. I’m saving the last power plug on the YakPower to add the Minnkota puck link for the jog feature on my iPolit.

Adds an extra battery but works out great.