Where to oil my Daiwa reels

[Cbump]

If I’m just doing basic oiling on reels that are starting to sing loudly on the cast, where and how do I oil? These are tatula reels. 
Thanks

[JediAmoeba]

If they are singing loudly on the cast it's more than likely the spool bearings. If they are basic tatula reels you need to take the side plate off and oil both spool bearings - one is held in by a retainer in the middle of the magnets and the other is under the endcap. You also want to oil the clutch cam bearing on the inside of the reel where you pulled the spool out of...

 

The bearing that is notorious for getting rusty and locking up is the gear shaft bearing but that requires a whole teardown.

[tander]

Unscrew the screw that is on the side plate. When you take the plate off there will be a bearing where the spool shafts goes, put one drop of oil on that bearing. Take the spool out and you will see another bearing where the shaft goes on that side, put one drop of oil on it. Also you can put one ot two drops of oil on the level wind gear. This is all I do to my Tatula reels. I probably do this several times a year. I start when I change line for the year,

[Cbump]

Thanks amigos

[PhishLI]

7 hours ago, Cbump said:

If I’m just doing basic oiling on reels that are starting to sing loudly on the cast, where and how do I oil? These are tatula reels. 

Are you comfortable with removing just the handle? 

[Cbump]

47 minutes ago, PhishLI said:

Are you comfortable with removing just the handle? 

Yessir I can do that

[PressuredFishing]

Before doing invasive reel surgery if it has been fished in clean water not sw or fishing frogs in schmuck, just remove sideplate and oil spool bearings, see if that helps. Also removing spool tension knob will expose another spool bearing that might be hard to reach.

[PhishLI]

3 hours ago, Cbump said:

Yessir I can do that

If your Tatula hasn't been dunked or is need of a deep clean for other reasons, you can do a quick oil without major disassembly. I use the Daiwa Reel Oiler which is shown.

 

The first picture is for reference only using a spare, random bearing. This illustrates using a needle oiler to add a drop or two of oil to a bearing's gap between its shield the outside diameter of its inner race. This shield isn't a seal, but a mechanical device made to keep larger grains of particulate from entering a bearing, so if oil is applied to this tiny gap it will migrate into the interior of the bearing by capillary action and gravity and wet the balls. This will help to lubricate a bearing that has expressed most of its lubricant during use and should quiet what you're feeling and hearing.

 

Most Tatulas have two spool bearings. One's located in the palming side-plate and is easily accessed by backing out the retained coin slotted screw, then removing the side-plate. See the 2^nd picture for guidance.

 

The other one's located under the spool tension knob or zero- adjuster knob. They are the same thing, and they serve the same function. All that needs to be done here is to adjust the star drag to allow the tension knob to be turned counterclockwise enough to be unscrewed from the threaded nipple molded into the frame. This exposes the inner-race/shield junction of this bearing. Add oil to the gap.

 

Reinstall the knob. This is do-able, but it can be tricky. It's quite easy to not start the threads correctly which will lead to cross-threading. It's best to first remove the handle and star drag from the very start if you lack confidence which will allow easy access to the knob, and much better line-of-sight which will let you far better see that the knob's top is square to the threaded nipple before you begin screwing it back on. 

 

Once you've established that this is the case, place a finger on the middle of the cap, apply a little pressure, then slowly rotate the knob counterclockwise with your other hand's forefinger and thumb until you feel/hear a slight click, then stop. This is the lead-in groove of both the knob's and nipple's threads aligning. Now you can begin turning the knob clockwise to re-tighten it. If you feel any resistance whatsoever in the beginning, stop, then back it off and start again because there should be none for the first few turns. If all is well, you'll encounter some soft resistance as the knob's inside diameter encounters the O-ring at the base of the threaded nipple. This is fine.

 

Once you've finished the bearings, the pinion bearing can always use some oil. Remove the spool and avoid cranking the handle while it's out, but you can rotate it slowly if you need to without harming the gears. Tatulas, minus the 300, use the spool's shaft to partially support the pinion, so cranking the handle with the spool removed isn't wise. Reference the 4^th picture to see where to add oil. Reinstall the spool, then the side-plate, then give it some spins. Assuming your gears and clutch mech are both properly lubricated, this will usually hold you over until a tear-down service is convenient.

 

This isn't shown with a picture, but you can oil the worm gear and its bushings or bearings from the outside. I use ReelX oil here. Since the reel is already in hand, crank the handle to center the T-Wing, the add oil to the worm gear shaft grooves both left and right of the T-Wing, then in each corner where the shaft meets the frame. Give it a good spin and you're good. This is super easy, and something I do every 3^rd or 4^th trip.

 

[Cbump]

Love the pictures. Helps alot! I’m not mechanically minded. 

[PhishLI]

3 hours ago, Cbump said:

Love the pictures. Helps alot! I’m not mechanically minded.

?

[Cbump]

I used ardent reel oil and there’s no needle on It so It wasn’t as precise. But not dry anymore!