Justbass11 Posted April 1, 2023 Author Posted April 1, 2023 So basically what I’m getting from all this great advice is braid backing with FC. Give or take a little bit. Thanks y’all for the advice Quote
DEPS_250 Posted April 1, 2023 Posted April 1, 2023 I would caution against using straight braid on jigs. Very hard to break off when you get snagged/hungup. Jigs are meant to be used on the bottom and most of the time, that means rocks. Its much easier to break off a jig on 12lb fluorocarbon than it is on 40lb test braid. One time, I got hung up fishing a jig on straight braid and had to cut off half my spool. Went to try and break it off with my hands but just couldn't do it. The braid was too strong and my knot was too strong. Had to cut it at the water to try and save as much line as possible and I still ended up losing over half the braid on my spool. Ended my fishing day real quick since I was only fishing 1 rod and reel that day. Unless the conditions/cover warrant straight braid, 90% of the time, I fish braid to a fluorocarbon leader. If I get snagged or hung up and need to break off, I only lose 5-6 feet of leader and my jig. No more losing half my spool and having to quit fishing for the day and no more losing expensive braid. Win Win. The only situations I can think of that would warrant straight braid for jig fishing would be if your fishing somewhere that is VERY HEAVY in vegetation (i.e. weeds, grass, tules, milfoil, hydrilla etc). Since I live in CA, there is only 2 places that I would ever think of fishing straight braid on a jig...clear lake and the CA delta. Any other place, braid to fluorocarbon. My 2 cents. 1 Quote
Super User Deleted account Posted April 1, 2023 Super User Posted April 1, 2023 6 hours ago, DEPS_250 said: I would caution against using straight braid on jigs. Very hard to break off when you get snagged/hungup. Jigs are meant to be used on the bottom and most of the time, that means rocks. Its much easier to break off a jig on 12lb fluorocarbon than it is on 40lb test braid. One time, I got hung up fishing a jig on straight braid and had to cut off half my spool. Went to try and break it off with my hands but just couldn't do it. The braid was too strong and my knot was too strong. Had to cut it at the water to try and save as much line as possible and I still ended up losing over half the braid on my spool. Ended my fishing day real quick since I was only fishing 1 rod and reel that day. Unless the conditions/cover warrant straight braid, 90% of the time, I fish braid to a fluorocarbon leader. If I get snagged or hung up and need to break off, I only lose 5-6 feet of leader and my jig. No more losing half my spool and having to quit fishing for the day and no more losing expensive braid. Win Win. The only situations I can think of that would warrant straight braid for jig fishing would be if your fishing somewhere that is VERY HEAVY in vegetation (i.e. weeds, grass, tules, milfoil, hydrilla etc). Since I live in CA, there is only 2 places that I would ever think of fishing straight braid on a jig...clear lake and the CA delta. Any other place, braid to fluorocarbon. My 2 cents. I would suggest a dowel and maybe adding an arm day to the workout routine... Quote
Bdnoble84 Posted April 1, 2023 Posted April 1, 2023 Jigs for me is alittle different application. I am fishing finesse jigs and hair jigs in a rocky river. For that application i typically go straight braid 10lb powerpro. for my swimjig/ casting jig b rod i like to use 30lb powerpro to a 12lb invisx leader. Im fishing northern strain bass in moderate cover though so i dont need the heaviest stuff around. Quote
Mojo Bass Posted April 2, 2023 Posted April 2, 2023 15lb invizx for all jig usage except when around heavy vegetation then it’s 50lb braid ??♂️ simple simple Quote
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