Dragging vs. Slow Lift and Drop for Winter and Early Spring Jig Fishing?

[papajoe222]

This is a subject that I've devoted more than a few seasons studying. There was a time that I didn't give it much consideration. When one didn't work, I'd try the other (keeping it simple). But having a few inquiring brain sells among the dozen or so that I still possess, I questioned why one over the other.

Because bites are few and far between at this time of year, I began observing what factors were present when one presentation worked and the other didn't. Water clarity, light conditions, barometric pressure, even Ph. What I found was that the bass would take a jig dragged slowly and with pauses much more often than a lift/drop presentation. When the latter worked best, it produced numbers and the bites were much more aggressive.

What factors contributed to the more aggressive bite?  Exactly those that you'd consider during the summer.  Cold front conditions made the lift/drop/hop presentation almost ineffective and although production using the dragging method wasn't something to write articles about, I'd get two or three bites on it. 

My conclusion was, and is the reason why I choose one over the other to start the day, don't overlook the conditions during this time frame. You sure wouldn't during the rest of the season. ?

[Catt]

I work a jig the same way I work a Texas Rig which is Ole School with the only difference being the hops are smaller.

1) Make a long cast

2) Strip 3 or 4 arms length of line, this will assure a vertical fall

3) Count the bait down, 15' of water count to 20 to make certain the bait is on the bottom, do it in your head if need be

4) Pause a good 30 seconds after the bait reaches bottom

5) Lower your rod to the 2 o'clock position while reeling slack & feel for anything unusual

6) Move the rod from 2 o'clock to 1 o'clock in three motions

7) Pause 30 seconds & feel for anything unusual

? Repeat 5, 6, & 7 all the way back to the boat

Some times I'll simply drag the jig along the bottom really really slow

[Cbump]

21 minutes ago, Catt said:

I work a jig the same way I work a Texas Rig which is Ole School with the only difference being the hops are smaller.

1) Make a long cast

2) Strip 3 or 4 arms length of line, this will assure a vertical fall

3) Count the bait down, 15' of water count to 20 to make certain the bait is on the bottom, do it in your head if need be

4) Pause a good 30 seconds after the bait reaches bottom

5) Lower your rod to the 2 o'clock position while reeling slack & feel for anything unusual

6) Move the rod from 2 o'clock to 1 o'clock in three motions

7) Pause 30 seconds & feel for anything unusual

? Repeat 5, 6, & 7 all the way back to the boat

Some times I'll simply drag the jig along the bottom really really slow

man, I fish a jig waaaay too fast. I’ll try this. 

[Fishin Dad]

Last year I did a lot of slowly dragging a football jig.   I would even stop it often and “pop my slack” without moving the jig, It was very successful.  I have a tendency to hop or pop my pitching/skipping jigs too much.  This year I am going to concentrate on really slowing down and letting it sit longer like Papa and Catt were saying.  I need to learn patience, especially in highly probable areas.  I am good at slowing down with a shaky head or drop shot, but work a jig or T-rig too fast.  Good reminders!   Thanks fellas.  

[Jar11591]

33 minutes ago, Fishin Dad said:

I would even stop it often and “pop my slack” without moving the jig, It was very successful.

This is something I do a lot in cold water as well. Just shake the slack of the line, the jig will stay in place but the skirt will pulsate. Excellent cold water jig technique! 
 

 

[FryDog62]

1 hour ago, Catt said:

I work a jig the same way I work a Texas Rig which is Ole School with the only difference being the hops are smaller.

1) Make a long cast

2) Strip 3 or 4 arms length of line, this will assure a vertical fall

3) Count the bait down, 15' of water count to 20 to make certain the bait is on the bottom, do it in your head if need be

4) Pause a good 30 seconds after the bait reaches bottom

5) Lower your rod to the 2 o'clock position while reeling slack & feel for anything unusual

6) Move the rod from 2 o'clock to 1 o'clock in three motions

7) Pause 30 seconds & feel for anything unusual

? Repeat 5, 6, & 7 all the way back to the boat

Some times I'll simply drag the jig along the bottom really really slow

Catt, when you do this is it primarily/exclusively a football jig or something else too..? 

[OkobojiEagle]

I've not had much success dragging many baits as lake bottoms here are covered in stringy/clingy algae and decaying weeds or large rocks or all of the above.  As slow as possible usually means very short "scoots" with frequent rests and/or slow as I can swimming just above the mess.

[Mobasser]

I use more t rigs with various baits. I usually always use a short, slow hop. I always try to focus on not moving my bait too far, and keeping it moving slowly. I think slow is the key.

[Catt]

46 minutes ago, FryDog62 said:

Catt, when you do this is it primarily/exclusively a football jig or something else too..? 

 

I don't own a football jig

 

Movement without movement ?

 

I need to add a little more details. Even when my Texas Rig or Jig-n-Craw is sitting "still" on the bottom, I will shake it in place like you would a Shaky Head.

 

I'm imparting movement (action) with out the lure actually moving forward. Even with the short strokes I'm not covering much distance.

 

All this can be done faster if necessary, it's about establishing a rythm.

[scaleface]

I dont drag baits often enough, most always I'm  lifting.  Caught a limit of pre spawn bass dragging a lizard in a tournament once while my co-angler blanked.  

[Bird]

Thanks for the great posts.

Something I will work on when fishing alone.

Impossible in my buddies boat as he's constantly moving and power fishing.

[Mike L]

1 hour ago, Mobasser said:

I use more t rigs with various baits. I usually always use a short, slow hop. I always try to focus on not moving my bait too far, and keeping it moving slowly. I think slow is the key.

 

 

57 minutes ago, Catt said:

 

I don't own a football jig

 

Movement without movement ?

 

I need to add a little more details. Even when my Texas Rig or Jig-n-Craw is sitting "still" on the bottom, I will shake it in place like you would a Shaky Head.

 

I'm imparting movement (action) with out the lure actually moving forward. Even with the short strokes I'm not covering much distance.

 

All this can be done faster if necessary, it's about establishing a rythm.

 

For me, Both of these posts are classic examples of how to do it In especially tannic shallow waters. 
 

Of course there are times when different more aggressive presentations could be successful….
But what @Mobasser explained, the “short, slow hop” and “always try to focus on not moving my bait too far” is the key for the most long term success when using a bottom contact t rig. 
 

@Catt with his most famous one liner “Movement without movement”

when mastered, can make all the difference regardless of conditions or what you have tied on. 
 

 

 

 

Mike

[Team9nine]

But if I don’t lift the bait, how is it going to fall?
 

Because we all know from books, articles, and these forums, 90% of the time bass bite worms/jigs/tubes on the fall ?

[Bankbeater]

I work the jig back using both.  I start off dragging it, but I always run across a log or a rock, and I will need to hop the jig over to clear it.  Once I'm clear I start to drag the jig again.

[Columbia Craw]

This is an excellent topic.  Years ago, a really good smallmouth fisherman invited me for a day trip.  He was a die hard tube user.  We hit an underwater flat point.  He had four or five before I got a bite.

 

Shortly thereafter, Willy gave me the best lesson I’ve had to date.  Don’t hop! Drag the tube.  Willy pointed out sculpin and crawfish move right on the bottom, particularly in current and a lift and fall was not natural movement.  Varying speed and pauses came into play but the tube had to be dragged.  This has become a fundamental to that presentation in that situation. I apply it to football jigs, hula grubs, Dark Sleepers and some other plastics.  There are numerous lures that require a lift and fall or climb over cover and fall but dragging made a significant difference in my bite rate.

[FryDog62]

8 hours ago, Catt said:

 

I don't own a football jig

Do you use Arkie, finesse jig, etc? 

2 hours ago, Columbia Craw said:

Don’t hop! Drag the tube.  Willy pointed out sculpin and crawfish move right on the bottom, particularly in current and a lift and fall was not natural movement.  I apply it to football jigs, hula grubs, Dark Sleepers and some other plastics.  

Yes, this is why I use the 3/4 and 1 oz Dark Sleepers.  They are so compact anyway and to properly drag them - and keep them - on the bottom you need some weight. Otherwise they rise up, stop and hop...

[papajoe222]

7 hours ago, Team9nine said:

Because we all know from books, articles, and these forums, 90% of the time bass bite worms/jigs/tubes on the fall ?

Glad I never subscribed to that way of thinking. 

[Catt]

11 minutes ago, FryDog62 said:

Do you use Arkie, finesse jig, etc? 

 

Terry Oldham's EyeMax, Hackney Fluorocarbon Jig, & Siebert Outdoors Grass Jig 

 

While crawfish do in fact move around on the bottom, until a bass approaches, then its fight or flight.

 

Flight is the crawfish's first defensive move. It flip it's tail lifting it upwards & backwards. It does this 3-4 times in rapid succession. 

 

Understand that upward & backwards motion isn't nearly a pronounced as I'm doing.

[king fisher]

12 hours ago, Catt said:

I work a jig the same way I work a Texas Rig which is Ole School with the only difference being the hops are smaller.

1) Make a long cast

2) Strip 3 or 4 arms length of line, this will assure a vertical fall

3) Count the bait down, 15' of water count to 20 to make certain the bait is on the bottom, do it in your head if need be

4) Pause a good 30 seconds after the bait reaches bottom

5) Lower your rod to the 2 o'clock position while reeling slack & feel for anything unusual

6) Move the rod from 2 o'clock to 1 o'clock in three motions

7) Pause 30 seconds & feel for anything unusual

? Repeat 5, 6, & 7 all the way back to the boat

Some times I'll simply drag the jig along the bottom really really slow

Thanks Catt. great advise.  I now know why I am not a good T rig, or jig angler.  The only time I have enough patience to pause 30 seconds, is when I grab a coke or a sandwich.  I must learn to slow down, or eat and drink all day.

[BigAngus752]

20 hours ago, papajoe222 said:

What I found was that the bass would take a jig dragged slowly and with pauses much more often than a lift/drop presentation

I've never had any success with the "lift/drop".  I always drag.  I will say that many, many jigs bites have come right when I pop the jig over something I drag it up against.  Some of my biggest bass have grabbed my jig or t-rig when I drag it, drag it, drag it, and then have to pop it over an obstruction. 

 

12 hours ago, Cbump said:

man, I fish a jig waaaay too fast. I’ll try this. 

I did too until I changed my technique.  I keep the rod mid-low and I drag the jig by pivoting left or right using my waist in a long, slow motion.  IMO I can feel the bottom better doing it this way instead of the "low to high" rod motion.  When I encounter an obstruction I'll turn back and face the target.  I'll shake it a couple times and, if nothing, I'll pop it over the log or rock.  This is where I've gotten a lot of good bites.  Pivoting at the waist left or right helps me move slow and makes it easy to go smoothly or twitch the rod for little spurts of movement.  Just find it easier to concentrate than the low-to-high stick for some reason. My own mental issues I suppose. 

[WRB]

Anyone who has read my Horizontal Jigging article on In-Fisherman knows how I fish casting jigs.

The pace/speed and action induced into a jig retrieve not only changed seasonally, it can change hourly.

I never drag a jig uphill as it will snag to often. Uphill is good tactic pre spawn (“Spring up, Fall down”). Working jig straight uphill required skills learned by losing them. Working a jig uphill at a 45 degree angle is uphill and snags less.

Moving the jig along the bottom structure works for me using the reel in combination of shaking the rod tip by shaking the reel handle that bounces the rod tip without losing contact with the jig. Lose contact you mis strikes unless the bass moves off with the jig and see line moving.

My technique is using rod to lift the jig up and over obstacles. 
Tom

[FryDog62]

There is so much on the topic of jig retrieval... even if they say they are doing the same thing - it varies a lot from one person to the next. Would be great to see video of Tom and Catt retrieving jigs... a lot of subtleties to learn from watching versus reading. 

[Pat Brown]

I have caught fish dragging, hopping and dead sticking jigs (however rate of fall seems more important overall at least for the fish that bite jigs for me), but this winter, a lot of fish were caught slowly swimming a jig.  Gave me a lot more confidence in fishing jigs kinda like spinnerbaits or chatterbaits without blades on them.  Sometimes I think the blades and noises are just instant signals not to bite.  Caught some giants doing the slow swim.

[Susky River Rat]

I like to slowly wobble my jigs along bottom after a long pause I will give it to big hops up back to back. I’d noticed that those two big hops on the second  fall tends to get the bite. 

[Deleted account]

20 hours ago, Team9nine said:

But if I don’t lift the bait, how is it going to fall?

 

Hard to tell cause of all the sniveling at the weigh in, but apparently there is this new alkazeltzer screw on bait floatie thing out there.