Got a line question...what line do you crank with?

[SproDD79]

This may be one of the ultimate rabbit hole questions.  Some of the lakes I fish have a very specific crankbait bite, i.e. when fishing crankbaits that run 15+ the bites are often when the bait hits the bottom, there needs to be some type of contact to get the strike,  for this type of bite I really  like Seagaur Abraz X 10 or 12lb, if I'm not planning to constantly crash the bottom I like 10 or 12lb sunline assassin. I've tried cranking with mono and copolymer and didn't care for it. If I can't do all flouro, I rather do braid with a long copolymer leader as an alternative to flouro, but for deep cranking flouro is my first choice. There really is no right answer,  it's what you're like.

[JediAmoeba]

45 minutes ago, clemsondds said:

Mind if I ask, why use braid then?  I'm not trying to question your decision making.  Honestly just want to hear why you like having braid as your main line if you are running that long of a leader. Thanks

It lasts me for years. I change my leaders every time I go out and I retie a lot. 

I haven't had a failure in a long time...

[rangerjockey]

10lb. Sunline FC Crank. Has a just enough stretch and handles really well. 

Before I went to the Sunline I used 10lb. Invisx for years.

[Columbia Craw]

10/12 Tatsu but when throwing squarebills in shallow cover, 15 Mono.

[dodgeguy]

I crank with braid because I want to feel everything. It's a reaction bite. You hitrocks and pause restart set hook and reel them in. Braid makes this way easier. I fished them on Sufix Advance Mono when I want less line visibility. I'm not convinced it matters and haven't been for 30 years. I hate flourocarbon and it doesn't recover when stretched a lot so I don't use it.

[Susky River Rat]

I use braid to leader for just about everything. It’s what I feel most comfortable using. I do not like the disconnection with other line types.

[clemsondds]

1 hour ago, Columbia Craw said:

10/12 Tatsu but when throwing squarebills in shallow cover, 15 Mono.

 

31 minutes ago, Darnold335 said:

I use braid to leader for just about everything. It’s what I feel most comfortable using. I do not like the disconnection with other line types.

Why do y’all have to make things so difficult lol!  Just when one of you makes a great argument for fc and I’ve convinced myself to go fc…someone else makes a great case for braid to leader lol.  I’ve used both and I like throwing fc better probably but I do agree braid has more feel and control. There’s pros and cons to both. I think I’m leaning toward fc just for the fact of depth and no connection knot. But idk 

[WRB]

Nobody trolls diving lures anymore so knowing how deep the lure actually runs vs line type is subjective not objective.

To determine running depth troll the lure         at 120’/ 40 yards on known flat depth on your sonar. Use the code FC line of choice vs mono line the same diameter.

If there is a foot difference I would shocked!

Tom

[gulfcaptain]

I throw  braid to leader. Shallow cranks, lip less fishing shallow I'll throw  mono 12 or 15lb, or go with 15lb fc. And fishing cranks to fish normal depths for the baits 12lb fc leader to braid, if I want them to stay shallower I move to 15lb or 17lb fc. Always braid to leader.  Don't have 1 rod in my arsenal that has straight mono or fc on it. (So 30+ set ups) 

[FishTank]

In a way, I use all three....

 

13lb Sunline Defier for square bills and shallow cranks

14lb Sunline Crank FC for deep diving cranks

10lb Sufix Siege for general purpose cranking

20lb Verivas Dead or Alive Finesse Braid with 8lb FC leader for BFS cranks 

6lb Sunline Shooter FC Invisible for BFS Cranks and BFS jerkbaits

 

I never use straight braid. I have lost too many fish and too many lures in structure and wood. 

 

[Glenn]

12lb Seaguar Tatsu for open water.  15lb Seaguar InvizX for working square bills through cover.

 

All straight up.  No braid on anything.

[clemsondds]

1 minute ago, Glenn said:

12lb Seaguar Tatsu for open water.  15lb Seaguar InvizX for working square bills through cover.

 

All straight up.  No braid on anything.

Thanks Glen. Mind sharing what your reasons are for choosing that setup? 

[Glenn]

12lb for open water. Smaller diameter allows for maximum depth.

 

15lb InvizX for cover because 1. You don't need to worry about max depth, and 2. InvizX is more abrasion resistant than Tatsu. and 3. 15lb is stronger than 12lb, which is what you need fishing in cover.

 

I don't use braid at all with crankbaits because braid has zero stretch, which is exactly what you don't need with thin, small-bite hooks (treble) that can easily rip out. You need line stretch, a medium-action parabolic rod (i.e. "give"), and a good drag system to work in concert - not to "compensate" for lack of line stretch. Plus, braid is buoyant compared to FC, which will diminish max depth.

[KP Duty]

I use Pline CXX.  8lb for most (.012")...6lb for finesse cranks (.009")...10lb for large divers (.014").  I am finishing off the Trilene XL 'armor coated' line I picked up on clearance at FFO.  Great line that apparently didn't sell.

[Bankc]

I've used it all at some point.  I do a LOT of cranking, as it's my confidence bait.  And to me, they all have their ups and downs.  A lot of what I'll choose now has to do with the rod I'm pairing it with and what bait's I'm throwing on it.  

For example, if you're using a softer medium/moderate rod with something like a DT10 and making long casts with mono, you might have problems setting the hook with a lot of line out.  On the other hand, with a stiffer MH/F rod and braided line, you might have trouble keeping the fish pinned at close range.  But putting braid on that first rod or mono on the second will help to negate some of those issues.  

 

So I tend to choose the rod and baits first, and then match the line to it, rather than just using one line for everything cranking.  Right now, my deep diving cranks (10+ feet) go on medium heavy / moderate rod with 30lb braid. The thinner braid helps to get the plug down deeper, and the MH/M rod has enough give to keep the fish pinned while still having enough backbone to set the hook on a long cast.  With squarebills, I tend to opt for a medium / moderate-fast rod with copoly line.  Copoly tends to stretch kind of like mono and be less visible, kind of like fluoro.  A good compromise between the two.  Plus it doesn't have the memory or cost of good fluoro.   For really light lures, like a Rapala Shad Rap, I prefer a ML/F spinning rod with 10lb braid.  And the reason for this is I can use that rod for a lot of other things, and not have to dedicate a third rod to crankbaits when space and money is limited.  I typically don't throw a lot of those.  

 

Moral of the story: the line you choose is part of a system and it's best to consider the whole system and what role you want that line to play in that system.  Any line can work well in the right system.  And any line can be a poor choice in the wrong system.  It might take some experimenting to figure out what works best for you.  

[clemsondds]

3 hours ago, Bankc said:

I've used it all at some point.  I do a LOT of cranking, as it's my confidence bait.  And to me, they all have their ups and downs.  A lot of what I'll choose now has to do with the rod I'm pairing it with and what bait's I'm throwing on it.  

For example, if you're using a softer medium/moderate rod with something like a DT10 and making long casts with mono, you might have problems setting the hook with a lot of line out.  On the other hand, with a stiffer MH/F rod and braided line, you might have trouble keeping the fish pinned at close range.  But putting braid on that first rod or mono on the second will help to negate some of those issues.  

 

So I tend to choose the rod and baits first, and then match the line to it, rather than just using one line for everything cranking.  Right now, my deep diving cranks (10+ feet) go on medium heavy / moderate rod with 30lb braid. The thinner braid helps to get the plug down deeper, and the MH/M rod has enough give to keep the fish pinned while still having enough backbone to set the hook on a long cast.  With squarebills, I tend to opt for a medium / moderate-fast rod with copoly line.  Copoly tends to stretch kind of like mono and be less visible, kind of like fluoro.  A good compromise between the two.  Plus it doesn't have the memory or cost of good fluoro.   For really light lures, like a Rapala Shad Rap, I prefer a ML/F spinning rod with 10lb braid.  And the reason for this is I can use that rod for a lot of other things, and not have to dedicate a third rod to crankbaits when space and money is limited.  I typically don't throw a lot of those.  

 

Moral of the story: the line you choose is part of a system and it's best to consider the whole system and what role you want that line to play in that system.  Any line can work well in the right system.  And any line can be a poor choice in the wrong system.  It might take some experimenting to figure out what works best for you.  

Great feedback! Thank you! Do you use straight braid or do you use a leader for deep divers? thanks

[Bluebasser86]

I use mono, 10-20 pound depending on the situation. 

[casts_by_fly]

22 hours ago, clemsondds said:

 

Why do y’all have to make things so difficult lol!  Just when one of you makes a great argument for fc and I’ve convinced myself to go fc…someone else makes a great case for braid to leader lol.  I’ve used both and I like throwing fc better probably but I do agree braid has more feel and control. There’s pros and cons to both. I think I’m leaning toward fc just for the fact of depth and no connection knot. But idk 

 

Its because differences in the type of crankbait (lipless, squarebill, shallow, and deep) and the cover you're fishing will have considerable consequences to your choices and only you can know what your preferences are in your own situations.  For me, I like braid on my lipless crankbaits.  I want to feel every vibration and I want to know if I've picked up a blade of grass, nipped a rock, or had a fish inhale it on the drop.  I don't fish a lipless around wood so there is no consideration there.  My lipless all have reasonably stout hooks and I'm not worried about bending them out.  The rod I am throwing it on has a relatively moderate action and absorbs any surges from bass (more on that in a minute).  Braid is great for popping a lipless out of grass as you don't have to hit the rod as hard to get the bait to clear.  Since I've rigged up that rod with braid and because that rod is also a very good shallow cranking rod (up to a DT10, but really I mean for a DT4/6) that's what I use.  If I am going to a bigger crankbait from DT6 up to a DT20, then I'm using a different rod.  That rod also does double duty as my prop/buzz bait rod and some other things.  Its rigged up with 14 lb mono.  I don't mind fishing a lipless or squarebill on it either.  I don't prefer it for a DT4 or similar because they are a little light, but bigger than that is fine.  

 

3 hours ago, Bankc said:

For example, if you're using a softer medium/moderate rod with something like a DT10 and making long casts with mono, you might have problems setting the hook with a lot of line out.  On the other hand, with a stiffer MH/F rod and braided line, you might have trouble keeping the fish pinned at close range.  But putting braid on that first rod or mono on the second will help to negate some of those issues.  

 

These are two very real considerations.  Not as much with mono and a DT10, but definitely mono and a lipless for me, especially if the rod is on the softer end of action and power.

 

I'm not as worried about braid and bass (my rod is a MHMF technically but feels a little softer), however last year a straightened a snap when a pike at my OG6 right at the boat.  I had my drag locked down and a lighter wire hook than I should have for that setup.  I've fixed both of those things now and it won't happen again, but I would have liked to land that one.

 

[Bankbeater]

I use either 6#, 10#, or 15# mono depending on the bait I am using and the cover I am casting around.

[ABrugs]

12# Tatsu.

[TheBaitMonkey]

14lb FC Sniper

[Mbirdsley]

12 lbs suffix advanced flouro for general cranking 2-12 ft.  On my deep cranking rod I’m running 15 lbs Berkley 100% flouro just because, cabelas has  great price on the 400 yard spool and my round reel abu pro rocket takes a lot of line to spool up. 

I will occasionally throw square bills on my spinner/chatter bait rod which, is spoiled with 10 lbs big game mono 

[clemsondds]

I think I get it all figured out and then I remember topwater (poppers, walking…). Those rods are also pulling double duty as shallow crank and jerkbait rods. So this brings the dilemma again…I had decided I like straight fluoro for shallow and jerk baits, but don’t want that for topwater. Anyone else run into this?  I guess my options are: straight copoly or mono, braid to mono, or swap reels when switching techniques. What are your thoughts? 

[optimator]

55 minutes ago, clemsondds said:

I think I get it all figured out and then I remember topwater (poppers, walking…). Those rods are also pulling double duty as shallow crank and jerkbait rods. So this brings the dilemma again…I had decided I like straight fluoro for shallow and jerk baits, but don’t want that for topwater. Anyone else run into this?  I guess my options are: straight copoly or mono, braid to mono, or swap reels when switching techniques. What are your thoughts? 

I use an old Loomis GL2 PR844c for crank’s and topwater (not frogs). 10 or 12lb Suffix mono has never given me any problems. 

[Mojo Bass]

Seaguar invizx done