Reel size, line length?

[AdrianLP]

I currently have a baitcaster with 50 lbs braid which I use for topwater largemouth bass, spoons for northern pike, etc. I also have a cheap Revros real with 8 lbs braid which I use primarily for largemouth bass. The Revros was fairly inexpensive, but it does everything I need and I find no issue with it.

 

I fish on the St. Lawrence River, most of the time I'm in 10' of water or less.

 

I'm considering buy a new reel. I think I might go with a Pfluger President XT. I'm undecided if I want the PRESXTSP25X (1000) which holds 110 yards of 8 lb. braid, or the PRESXTSP30X (2000) which holds 190 yards of 8 lb. braid. I plan to start with 12 lb. braid on it. If I prefer the 8 lb. braid I'll switch my new reel to that. I only want the new reel so I can test 8 lb. braid and 12 lb. braid during the same trip without having to re-spool or have multiple spools.

 

When all is said and done I'll change my existing Revros spinning reel to something a bit heavier for Pike. Maybe 15 or 20 lb. braid.

 

My question is, given that my new reel will almost solely be for Largemouth in 10' of water or less, do I really need any more than the 1,000 series reel? Given numbers I've seen elsewhere, I think the 1,000 series will hold about 77 yards of 12 lb. braid. I'm not one of those who ties his braid directly to lures, so I won't constantly be cutting and re-tying my line. So line length isn't an issue that way. I figure casting distances are usually 100 - 150', and bass never really use my drag, so that leaves 150 - 200' of line on the spool at worst case scenario. The 1,000 series has 8 lb. drag, which I think is quite reasonable for any bass I might catch (not that I've ever needed drag for bass).

 

Some say that line twist is worse with a smaller reel, but is it so bad as to take into consideration?

 

I guess my primary reason for wanting a smaller reel is so that I don't need to use backing if the braid I purchase is much shorter than the reel capacity. Why spool 1,000' of line if I really only ever use 100 - 200' right.

 

I'm also considering these reels (I like reels which feel as though they have near to zero resistance to wind):

• Bass Pro Shops Pro Qualifier PDQ2000
• Quantum Drive

 

 

[gulfcaptain]

So here is your issue.  Yes smaller will work  but you loose IPT(inches per turn) with smaller reels. Also you can step your braid to 15 and 20lb braid which is basically  4 and 6lb test size. You won't have to use much backing as I fill my 2500 and 3000 size reels (which are standard size reels) with some cheap 10lb mono then braid. A 300 yrd spool will fill if I do it right 3 reels easily. But the smaller reel you're not gonna have the line pick up needed to keep up with some fish coming at you. Learned the hard way with smallies.  Thought like you and it cost me fish. Step your braid up to 15, go with a 2500 size reel and go get them. Small reels work for perch, crappie, trout. Gonna fish bass stay with the 2500 or 3000 size reels. The IPT on most are between  26" and 34" IPT opposed to something about 18" or so. Hope this helps.

[bulldog1935]

You're going in the right direction.  

Thinner braid casts better.  

You can always upgrade the braid to Varivas or YGK to get 16-20-lb in the same diameter and capacity as the rated 8 lb.  

 

[AdrianLP]

3 minutes ago, gulfcaptain said:

So here is your issue.  Yes smaller will work  but you loose IPT(inches per turn) with smaller reels. Also you can step your braid to 15 and 20lb braid which is basically  4 and 6lb test size. You won't have to use much backing as I fill my 2500 and 3000 size reels (which are standard size reels) with some cheap 10lb mono then braid. A 300 yrd spool will fill if I do it right 3 reels easily. But the smaller reel you're not gonna have the line pick up needed to keep up with some fish coming at you. Learned the hard way with smallies.  Thought like you and it cost me fish. Step your braid up to 15, go with a 2500 size reel and go get them. Small reels work for perch, crappie, trout. Gonna fish bass stay with the 2500 or 3000 size reels. The IPT on most are between  26" and 34" IPT opposed to something about 18" or so. Hope this helps.

 

I fish for fun, I don't do tournaments, if I lose the odd fishing I still make my property tax payments. So losing the odd fish isn't a huge deal. Frustrating sure, but not the end of the world by any means.

 

Why 15 or 20 lb.? Last year I ran 8 lb. on my spinning reel with no issues. The casting distance with lighter line is crazy! Using the same rod, reel, and plastic worm, I find the casting distance of 8 lb. braid is about twice as far as with 20 lb. braid.

 

Keep in mind my new spinning reel will only be for largemouth in shallow water, and pretty much exclusively plastics. I will still have my Daiwa Fuego CT baitcaster and Revros reel (which will have 15 or 20 lb. braid) for heavier applications.

10 minutes ago, bulldog1935 said:

You can always upgrade the braid to Varivas or YGK to get 16-20-lb in the same diameter and capacity as the rated 8 lb.  

 

Varivas and YGK make 16 - 20 lb. braid that has similar diameter to 8 lb. braid of some other manufacturers?

 

Or similar diameter to 8 lb. mono of other manufacturers (which seems typical for braid).

[gulfcaptain]

You asked, I gave you my opinion.  You can use it or you do you.  

[bulldog1935]

all Japan X-braids are made by Izanas - 80% of the strength is in a center high-strength strand, with outer fibers for abrasion resistance.  They're made from finer fibers, tighter weave, and fused thinner when outer FEP coating is applied.  

Sufix 832

At 0.18 mm, Sufix is 8-lb, Japan X-braid is 20-24-lb.  

[Cbump]

I got some Japan Braid. It was a mental thing but I didn’t trust It because It was so thin. 

[OkobojiEagle]

Good information above, trust it, To add, as the spool diameter increases so does the drag washer size which also increases the drag force and sometimes the smoothness of the drag.  Casting distance will increase as line diameter becomes thinner, but casting distance will also increase as spool diameter increases.  I own Pflueger spinning reels, size 25, 30 and 35.  Size 25 gets fished very rarely, size 35 is used most often.  Your mileage may vary, but I'm guessing you're here in the first place to learn from those with experience in the subject.

 

oe

[AdrianLP]

34 minutes ago, OkobojiEagle said:

Your mileage may vary, but I'm guessing you're here in the first place to learn from those with experience in the subject.

 

I've fished for decades, though usually with only 1 or 2 rod/reel combinations at any one point in time. So I don't have a lot of experience with comparing reels and lines side by side on the same fishing trip.

 

1 hour ago, gulfcaptain said:

You asked, I gave you my opinion. 

 

You did, and I asked why that was your opinion. I assume you've some reason to hold the opinion that you have.

 

[GetFishorDieTryin]

If you're not purposely fishing for musky or lake trout I don't see capacity being an issue at all.  I put 60 yards of braid on my smaller (sub 3k) that will largely be used in FW.  If its a 4k that I may be using for lighter striper pluggin I'll put 90-100 yards on top of the backing just to have some room in case I do run into bigger fish unexpectedly.  Aside from a drawn out fight, I dont see the advantage of a larger capacity.  

If you put 150 yards of braid on, 120 yards of that line isn't going to see the light of day, unless you flip the braid after wearing out the first 30 yards or so.  

The advantage of the larger dia spool is increased casting distance and line pick up.  The handle length comes into play as well.  When you go from a 2500-3000 Shimano or Daiwa, generally you get a longer handle, which IMO makes it easier to pick up slack line in a hurry, before you set the hook.  

As far as lb test, youre better off staying under 10lb.  There is a noticeable difference in casting distance when you from 15lb to 10 or 8lb.  The lighter the bait is the more noticeable the difference in distance.  10lb braid is strong, breaking close to 15lbs which is more then enough for a lighter spinning outfit.  

[Team9nine]

IMO, always go with the larger size spinning reel. There is almost no downside, but many upsides, some having been mentioned above.

[roadwarrior]

Well, except the "cool factor".  Smaller reels are more stealthy.

 

On the other hand, this is my latest purchase:

https://fish.shimano.com/content/fish/northamerica/us/en/homepage/Shimano_Product_Page.P-EXSENCE.html

[bulldog1935]

Any time you're fishing threadline braid, shallow spool to get the right capacity with the line diameter is most important.  

This is how you get good line management (look at my photos above again).  

Last October, I let my buddy borrow the reel and line I show above (C2000SHG, YGK PE#0.8)  to fish on his new salt finesse rod.  He was giddy with the light-lure casts he was getting - said he wouldn't have guessed that cast distance was even possible.  He went home and bought two just like it.  

[gulfcaptain]

38 minutes ago, AdrianLP said:

 

You did, and I asked why that was your opinion. I assume you've some reason to hold the opinion that you have.

 

Everything was stated and why. The info is there.  And the size if the spool on the larger reels also gives you more casting distance as well if that's your concern. Then I would look for a reel with a slightly shallower spool other then some  that are deep since they won't give you distance.

[AdrianLP]

3 hours ago, GetFishorDieTryin said:

If you're not purposely fishing for musky or lake trout

 

As far as lb test, youre better off staying under 10lb.  There is a noticeable difference in casting distance when you from 15lb to 10 or 8lb.  The lighter the bait is the more noticeable the difference in distance.  10lb braid is strong, breaking close to 15lbs which is more then enough for a lighter spinning outfit.  

 

I've only a Conservation license, so I can't target musky anyway. I've never seen a trout in my neck of the woods. But if I do go for either, I've my baitcaster with 50 lb. on it, and my older Revros which will have 15 or 20 lb. on it.

 

I figure my new reel will be almost exclusively for plastics. I ran with 8 lb. braid on my Revros last year, and the casting distance was amazing compared to the 20 lb. I had used with the same reel and rod the year previous. I didn't have any break-offs with the 8 lb. last year, but I bought a spool cheap from AliBaba of 12 lb. 8-strand braid with small diameter (roughly $8 Canadian for 500 yards), so I thought I would try it to see the difference. Some people swear by < 10 lb. braid, others say you need 12 - 15 lb.. I thought I would check out the difference for myself. As for the cheap overseas line, I've used a few different spools of it and always found it suited my needs well.

 

I don't expect any largemouth I catch to need more than 8 lb. of course, I just thought the heavier braid might be more resistant to cuts against sharp rocks or other obstructions. Other than that I loved the 8 lb. braid I used last year on my spinning setup. Of course some argue that a lighter line might actually be more cut-resistant. After all a lighter line is more flexible and pliable, so it might be more likely to deflect whereas a heavier line may not be.

3 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

Any time you're fishing threadline braid, shallow spool to get the right capacity with the line diameter is most important.

 

 

Where does one buy a shallow spool which has a large diameter? Or can you buy inserts for a spool as to eliminate the need for backing?

[bulldog1935]

Everyone is trying to talk you into a larger reel.  

 

I would look at capacity on JDM C2000S, C2000SHG (high-geared) Shimano Miravel, or better at the current exchange rate, step up to Stradic for Shimano entry-level worm drive, or just a little more for lighter-frame Vanford.  

https://www.jpfishingtacklenews.com/shimano-stradic-19/

 

Here's a shallow Shimano Yumeya F3 aftermarket spool for mid-frame (S-20) Shimano, 2500, C3000

https://www.hedgehog-studio.co.jp/product/4372

 

This is what I do to match my mid-frame and large frame Shimano reels with shallow braid spools.  

 

 

[AdrianLP]

2 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

Everyone is trying to talk you into a larger reel.  

 

I'm also watching another thread on this site where someone asked about using a 1,000 class reel, and everyone is in support. So I guess it depends who you ask, on which day and in what mood they're in.

 

I'll look into the reels you mentioned, though for what I do I'm not sure that it's worth spending 5 times as much as I had planned to spend.

 

[Big Hands]

1 hour ago, AdrianLP said:

I'm also watching another thread on this site where someone asked about using a 1,000 class reel, and everyone is in support. So I guess it depends who you ask, on which day and in what mood they're in.

 

I think that guy got more support for the 1000 size since he stated it was primarily for creek fishing where the casting distance likely has a lower place on the list of priorities. And many said that this would especially be true if he was jigging (i.e. fishing more vertically) when he fished a lake. Horses for courses.

 

You mention wind resistance. If you're fishing a 1000 size reel with light braid in wind strong enough to make a 1000 reel have noticeably less wind resistance, that will be the least of your issues. IMHO wind resistance for your application is of low importance, but YMMV. 

 

The price points of the reels you mention range from $40 to $100 in a quick search. I can identify with not wanting to spend more than you need, but the quality is bound to vary a lot between the ones listed.

 

They make shallow spool versions of both the Revros 1000 and 2000 for the Japanese domestic market, and you'd be hard pressed to compete with them for the money. The Revros reels are relatively heavier than more expensive reels but for the money you pay for them, they are popular for good reason.

 

Maybe a ranked order of priorities would help vs what is available could be useful. Things like:

• Inches per Turn (IPT)/Gear Ratio
• Overall weight
• Line Capacity
• Drag capacity
• Drag Smoothness
• Switch for reverse (or lack thereof)
• Ergonomics
• Balance (with the rod they will be used with)
• Line lay (some reels come with various washers for tuning it to your liking)
• Reel smoothness
• Spool diameter

Put them in some sort of ranked order and decide which are needs and which are wants. Figure out what you'd like to pay and what you'd be willing to pay. 

OR

If you have the budget for any of the reels @bulldog1935 suggested, you could save yourself a lot of hand-wringing and time and just get one of those and know you have made a fine choice. If you can swing it, choices like that hurt the day you buy them, but you love them every day thereafter.

[AdrianLP]

13 hours ago, Big Hands said:

You mention wind resistance. If you're fishing a 1000 size reel with light braid in wind strong enough to make a 1000 reel have noticeably less wind resistance, that will be the least of your issues.

 

Maybe a ranked order of priorities...

 

I had mentioned that my 8 lb. braid casts a LOT further than my 20 lb. braid using the same rod and reel. I figured wind resistance plays a big part in that. I know if I cast 100 - 150'.

I *think* my priorities are (most important first):

 

• Reel smoothness
• Switch for reverse
• Ergonomics (though I don't notice a big difference between most)
• Inches per Turn (IPT)/Gear Ratio
• Overall weight
• Line Capacity
• Drag capacity
• Drag Smoothness
• Balance (with the rod they will be used with)
• Spool diameter

Line lay I can't speak to, I've never had a reel that does what you mentioned.

Of course I would prefer weight if the only options were a very heavy reel or a much lighter one.

I can't speak to line lay, as I've never had a reel with washers for tuning. But it sounds like something a lot more picky that I would want to be.

I don't think I've ever noticed balance issues with any rod and reel I've ever owned. I'm sure others would not have liked some I've had, I guess I just don't notice.

I could easily do $300 - $400 Canadian ($221 - $295 usd), I'm just not sure it's worth it for what I do. What are the advantages of a reel that much more expensive? Keep in mind that I enjoy fishing, but it's more about time spent with family and friends. That being said, I have just bought a bass boat (to replace my Yamaha G3 which a tree fell on), and I'm no stranger to accumulating a small fortune in tackle, $3,000 trolling motor with iPilot (how do people live without a virtual anchor?), etc.

I like the following reels because to me they feel as if they have near to 0 friction when winding (a gentle breeze would almost wind them for me). And when I've turned them very very slowly, and fast, I cannot feel the bearings at all. And I tend to be very picky and sensitive to those types of things.

 

• Pflueger President
• Pflueger President XT (I love the cork knob). This is assuming this reel is as smooth as the Pflueger President, I've not tested one.
• Bass Pro Shops Pro Qualifier (PDQ2000)
• Quantum Drive

Maybe if I used an expensive reel I'd never want to go back to a cheap reel. I couldn't know. But in all the reels I've owned as an adult, I've never wished that I were instead using a more expensive reel. Perhaps I'm just easy to please that way.

 

[AdrianLP]

... and I know it's a bad reason to choose a reel, but I LOVE the appearance of the white Quantum Accurist PT with the gunmetal gray spool:

 

https://www.sail.ca/en/quantum-accurist-pt-spinning-reel-796015-s1

 

I've no idea how it feels though, I've never seen one in person.

[AdrianLP]

... and I know it's a bad reason to choose a reel, but I LOVE the appearance of the white Quantum Accurist PT with the gunmetal gray spool:

 

https://www.sail.ca/en/quantum-accurist-pt-spinning-reel-796015-s1

 

I've no idea how it feels though, I've never seen one in person.

 

I'm liking how little this weighs:
Daiwa Tatula LT Spinning Reel

[LCG]

Fellow Canadian here. I picked up a Daiwa Tatula LT 2000 at Sail for a sale price of $179 cad and the sale is still on now. Have not had a chance to use it yet, but spooled up some line and it looks to lay line well. It's lightweight and smooth, but again I haven't used it yet.

 

The Stradic FL is a solid reel as well, I had the 2500, but wanted something lighter weight for finesse. If for some reason the Tatula LT doesn't work out, the Stradic FL 2000 SHG will probably be the reel I would get.

[Big Hands]

Reels are kinda like camera lenses. For most middle of the road tasks and situations, you don't NEED anything super special. Nice gear is generally nicer to use, but not always entirely necessary. But, once you're using them in more extreme situations, that's when they can really earn their place.

 

Sometimes extreme casting distance may be required, or very light line, or super smooth drag. That's when all those little details can make enough of a difference and could move your requirements from the 'want' category to the 'need' category.

 

I'm just going to say that if you knowingly put an emphasis on the color of the reel, you might not need to take advantage of the line lay characteristics of a Shimano Vanford over those of a Daiwa Revros. Nothing to feel bad about, it just is what it is and there are probably many, many reels that will be capable of doing everything you need them to do. 

 

If you were to buy something like the Vanford (or other similarly more sophisticated reels), you could grow to appreciate it and take advantage of those features more as your knowledge and skills progress.

 

5 hours ago, AdrianLP said:

Line lay I can't speak to, I've never had a reel that does what you mentioned.

 

You can alter the line lay on your Revros by using different thickness washers under the spool. The reel may have included a little bag with some white colored washers in it. If so, that is what they are for.

[AdrianLP]

5 minutes ago, Big Hands said:

Reels are kinda like camera lenses. For most middle of the road tasks and situations, you don't NEED anything super special. Nice gear is generally nicer to use, but not always entirely necessary. But, once you're using them in more extreme situations, that's when they can really earn their place.

 

Sometimes extreme casting distance may be required, or very light line, or super smooth drag. That's when all those little details can make enough of a difference and could move your requirements from the 'want' category to the 'need' category.

 

I'm just going to say that if you knowingly put an emphasis on the color of the reel, you might not need to take advantage of the line lay characteristics of a Shimano Vanford over those of a Daiwa Revros. Nothing to feel bad about, it just is what it is and there are probably many, many reels that will be capable of doing everything you need them to do. 

 

If you were to buy something like the Vanford (or other similarly more sophisticated reels), you could grow to appreciate it and take advantage of those features more as your knowledge and skills progress.

 

 

You can alter the line lay on your Revros by using different thickness washers under the spool. The reel may have included a little bag with some white colored washers in it. If so, that is what they are for.

 

It was just a cheap combo from Canadian Tire. At the price I can't imagine it had those washers, I don't remember it coming with any.

 

1 hour ago, LCG said:

Fellow Canadian here. I picked up a Daiwa Tatula LT 2000 at Sail for a sale price of $179 cad 

 

How smooth is it to wind the handle? It's subjective, but is there much weight to turn the handle, or does it feel closer to 0 friction and effortless?

 

11 minutes ago, Big Hands said:

I'm just going to say that if you knowingly put an emphasis on the color of the reel, you might not need to take advantage of the line lay characteristics of a Shimano Vanford over those of a Daiwa Revros. 

 

Aesthetics in most things I do are overly important, not just in fishing reel choices. I'm not sure why, I've just always been like this 

[LCG]

23 minutes ago, AdrianLP said:

How smooth is it to wind the handle? It's subjective, but is there much weight to turn the handle, or does it feel closer to 0 friction and effortless?

Reeling is very smooth, not much weight to turn the handle. Not 0 or effortless, I think that's more Vanquish territory. It compares well to the Vanford.