Basic 3wt Fly Rod Build Ideas?

[RipHair]

I need to order some components to finish a BFS rod build and I'm considering building a 3wt Fly Rod as well.

 

Ideally I'd like to go as minimalist as possible especially for a dinky 4pc 3wt when traveling or to bring on my motorcycle in case I come across a little stream or creek.

 

I haven't yet looked into component specifics, nor have I ever even built a fly rod yet but I'm sure the guides are all pretty standard but I may come back to those later in the thread as things develop. I guess the first question I have is, is there some kind of minimalist reel seat to use? When I mean minimalist, I guess I mean cost, ease of build, low profile/weight. My casting rods are all fuji SK2 split with rear cork and small butt, no winding checks or fancy wraps. I see on my fly rods that there is some kind of metal casing where the reel seat is and I imagine that thing if needed will have to be properly fitted? I suppose you can't just mount the reel to the blank?

 

Any tips or pointers while I start preparing and researching would be appreciated!

 

Also any suggestions on blanks are appreciated. I think I'm looking for around a 4pc 7' for ultimate portability and work-ability in heavy brush. I've so far set my sights on REVF703-4SB or REVF663-4SBL:

 

https://batsonenterprises.com/rainshadow-rod-blanks/blank-rev-fly-6-6-4-pc-3-wt-satin-black-revf663-4sb

https://batsonenterprises.com/rainshadow-rod-blanks/blank-rev-fly-7-0-4-pc-3-wt-satin-black-revf703-4sb

 

I'm no professional fly fisherman and I don't think I need to go uber expensive for this build?

[casts_by_fly]

No need to go expensive at all.  Lots of options for fly rods depending on your preferences.

 

I'd suggest just plain wire single foot guides and matching tip.  Nothing special there.  I'd only use a single stripping guide to keep down weight, probably a #10 regular frame casting guide.  Since this is your first fly rod, get a preformed grip that's already cut for an uplocking reel seat of your choice.  Once you've done those three things, the actual building is just the same as any other rod.

 

For blanks, I don't know the new rainshadows, but I built a TON of the IM6/IM7 series back in the day.  They were great blanks for the money.  I have the 6'6" downstairs and while its a nice blank, it is a little short for anything bigger than a brook trout stream and even then I prefer a little longer rod.  The 7' 3  wt IM6 was a great blank and taper.  I did a lot of those and it was a significant improvement over the 6'6" in all ways to me.  I imagine they have maintained or improved the profiles and flex in the new series.

[RipHair]

Thanks for your input. Do you have any other blank manufacturer recommendations to build this basic rod? I also found this guy too it's a 7'6 and less than half the price. It uses their RX6 instead of RX7 though but I'm not sure how much that is going to matter? I also found some NFC blanks but they were like $400+ probably a little more than I'd care to spend for my first little stream rod... The other ones I quoted about are around $120. Also the one below is Mod-Fast instead of Fast - what are your thoughts?

 

https://getbitoutdoors.com/unity-7-6-2-pc-med-fast-3wt-olympic-green

 

EDIT: Nevermind the above blank, it's a 2pc!

 

[RipHair]

On 3/14/2023 at 12:59 PM, casts_by_fly said:

Since this is your first fly rod, get a preformed grip that's already cut for an uplocking reel seat of your choice.

In my research I read that some prefer downlocking especially on smaller rods. Any particular reason you recommended downlocking? Is it because of your grip comment?

[MickD]

I have read that the difference in up and downlocking on fly is related to balance, and because of the heavier cane blanks downlocking was sometimes preferred to get the reel positioned farther back for better balance.  With modern graphite blanks it probably doesn't matter as much.  I have only built uplocking with  graphite blanks from 3 to 9 weights.  All seem to work well for me.  I think you may have a better selection with uplocking.  With uplocking the grip needs a recess for the reel hood.

 

For this rod just about any seat will work fine; doesn't require an expensive seat.  Look at the rod weight recommendations for the seats.  You don't want to end up with a seat fit for an 8 weight when you're building a 3 or 4. 

 

I agree with the recommendation to use single foot wire guides. 

 

The biggest decision you need to make is the location of the stripping guide.  One expert states that regardless of the rod, 32 inches from the butt is where it goes.  I always have located it based on the reach of the caster, but I can say that close to 32 is where it always comes out. 

 

I don't put keepers on my fly rods, simply use the frame of the stripper guide after wrapping the leader around the reel body and putting the fly onto the stripper frame.  This keeps the leader knot out of the guides, usually, and there is nothing for line to get caught on. 

 

At least these are my opinions.

[MikeK]

Functional and easy and inexpensive . . .

Fuji DPSM size 16

Pre shaped or custom shaped grip

Short (even single ring) butt cap/fighting butt

CRB SSR Guides 1 sz 8 double foot, 1 sz 6 single foot, sz 5 single foot runners

Wire tip

[MickD]

This photo brings up  a good point.  What shape grip?  I use full wells (lower) on 8 wt's, but like the upper one for lighter rods.  Half wells?  And it can be a bit shorter than for heavier rods, IMHO.  

[RipHair]

7 minutes ago, MickD said:

This photo brings up  a good point.  What shape grip?  I use full wells (lower) on 8 wt's, but like the upper one for lighter rods.  Half wells?  And it can be a bit shorter than for heavier rods, IMHO.  

I'm thinking half wells for this particular build.

[casts_by_fly]

10 hours ago, RipHair said:

In my research I read that some prefer downlocking especially on smaller rods. Any particular reason you recommended downlocking? Is it because of your grip comment?

 

Functionally you will have no practical difference on a 7' 3 wt so pick the one you want.  I like an uplocking seat to hide one of the hoods in the cork.  I just think it looks cleaner.

 

3 hours ago, MickD said:

The biggest decision you need to make is the location of the stripping guide.  One expert states that regardless of the rod, 32 inches from the butt is where it goes.  I always have located it based on the reach of the caster, but I can say that close to 32 is where it always comes out. 

 

I don't put keepers on my fly rods, simply use the frame of the stripper guide after wrapping the leader around the reel body and putting the fly onto the stripper frame.  This keeps the leader knot out of the guides, usually, and there is nothing for line to get caught on. 

 

I agree with both of these comments.  Again, on a 7' 3 wt, you're not trying to bang out 75' casts (you can, but that's not the purpose).  That's the reasoning for putting a stripping guide further up the blank (or using a shooting guide which is a better solution yet).  For a small stream trout rod, I want the stripping guide where I can easily reach it.  There will be plenty of times when you aren't holding the line in your non rod hand and need to gather it.  Sometimes it will be right after a cast and you don't want to disturb the drift of your fly.  I don't want to have to pull the rod back to my hip to be able to reach the stripper.  most of mine end up around 27" or so and the ones that are longer it is noticeable in use.

 

I have put keepers on some rods but generally not.  Your leader is probably longer than your rod so putting a hook in a hook keeper in front of the grip means you always have your leader kinked on the tip top.  I always leave the entire leader out of the tip, wrap around the base of the reel, and hook it into whichever guide is nearest.  Usually that's a stripper but I don't care if its a single foot wire either.

 

36 minutes ago, MikeK said:

Functional and easy and inexpensive . . .

Fuji DPSM size 16

Pre shaped or custom shaped grip

Short (even single ring) butt cap/fighting butt

CRB SSR Guides 1 sz 8 double foot, 1 sz 6 single foot, sz 5 single foot runners

Wire tip

 

I hate this so much.  I know plastic reel seats are probably the best functional seats.  If I was building a 14 wt for tarpon or sailfish I'd probably use one.  You can abuse them, they hold any and every reel foot securely, they are inexpensive.  And I hate seeing them on fly rods.  They just feel and look cheap to me.  A fly rod aesthetic (for me) is a nice piece of wood, some knurled metal, fine threads, great cork, and clean, simple wraps.  When I'm fishing with a fly rod its not because its the most efficient, lowest cost way to catch fish.

 

4 minutes ago, MickD said:

This photo brings up  a good point.  What shape grip?  I use full wells (lower) on 8 wt's, but like the upper one for lighter rods.  Half wells?  And it can be a bit shorter than for heavier rods, IMHO.  

 

I've moved to a full wells across the board.  I like a thicker grip and I like a thumb spot.  A half wells works too and if I'm using a downlocking seat then I'll taper the rear of the half wells right down to the trim ring of the seat.  But that's not my preference.

[RipHair]

5 minutes ago, casts_by_fly said:

A fly rod aesthetic (for me) is a nice piece of wood, some knurled metal, fine threads, great cork, and clean, simple wraps.  When I'm fishing with a fly rod its not because its the most efficient, lowest cost way to catch fish.

Do you mean to recommend a particular handle with one of those nice wood inlays? I'm completely fine with splurging $70+ on a reel seat with a nice wood inlay if 1) it won't detract from functionality 2) it doesn't add more weight than some reasonable aluminum alternative that cost 1/5th the price 3) it isn't too much more difficult to work with and won't warp or need extra servicing.

[casts_by_fly]

20 minutes ago, RipHair said:

Do you mean to recommend a particular handle with one of those nice wood inlays? I'm completely fine with splurging $70+ on a reel seat with a nice wood inlay if 1) it won't detract from functionality 2) it doesn't add more weight than some reasonable aluminum alternative that cost 1/5th the price 3) it isn't too much more difficult to work with and won't warp or need extra servicing.

 

You shouldn't need to service anything on it once built.  The wood is sealed and doesn't warp.

 

Lots of options on the market.  If you want to go to what I think are the prettiest then REC nickel silver.  I love birdseye maple and gunstock walnut but you pick what looks nice for you.  If you like the look but want to save some cost they make aluminum instead of nickel silver.  The black or pewter aluminum with ash dyed green is a neat combo (maybe I have st patricks day on my brain).

 

https://reelseats.com/collections/nickel-silver-uplocking-reel-seats/products/nbgb

 

My usual seats outside of REC were Pac Bay or Forecast.  They are both similar and make a perfectly fine seat that was normally half the price of REC.  You'd have wider tolerances, heavier threads, and laminate woods, but for a little more budget build they were fine.  I usually bought a couple at a time because they were mix and match on the wood and I'd have a couple on hand for quick builds.  I think I still have a few downstairs.

[spoonplugger1]

I prefer the cigar grip myself, I haven't figured out the practical advantage to the exaggerated front taper, the lack of taper in the cigar grip allows the hand to change position over a long day of casting, reducing cramping. Also like the Ritz/Garrison grip on larger rods for the same reason.

[casts_by_fly]

17 hours ago, spoonplugger1 said:

I prefer the cigar grip myself, I haven't figured out the practical advantage to the exaggerated front taper, the lack of taper in the cigar grip allows the hand to change position over a long day of casting, reducing cramping. Also like the Ritz/Garrison grip on larger rods for the same reason.

 

This is exactly why I choose a more full grip.  It forces my hand into my best casting position (thumb on top guiding the line direction) when I am tired.  With a front tapered grip like a cigar or half wells I will start to bring my hand around the grip and forget about my thumb being forward.  Then my hand is out of position and I start breaking my wrist.  Doesn't matter if its a 2 wt or 10 wt (I have both and every weight in between except the 9).

 

I think for a while Winston rods had a full wells or a reverse half wells with a thumb divot in the front for a similar purpose.

[wisconsin heat]

I’ll chime in and say that you can get some good components for good prices online. 
 

I’ve been ordering a lot from gbflyshop lately - I’ve gotten a few of those wooden reel seats for around $17. And a nice blue acrylic one for around $20. Their graphite blanks are also really really nice, haven’t tried their fiberglass blanks yet.

 

 

 

[MickD]

NFC just released a new fly rod blank  FAF 763-4!  

 

4 piece 7 1/2 feet.  75 degree AA so it's pretty fast for a fly rod.

[JHTR20]

On 3/22/2023 at 8:55 PM, wisconsin heat said:

I’ll chime in and say that you can get some good components for good prices online. 
 

I’ve been ordering a lot from gbflyshop lately - I’ve gotten a few of those wooden reel seats for around $17. And a nice blue acrylic one for around $20. Their graphite blanks are also really really nice, haven’t tried their fiberglass blanks yet.

 

 

 

 

I'll second GB fly shop.  I bought a 7wt blank and all other components from them for my first ever fly rod build.  Quick delivery and I'm happy with the blank and components received.  I did cheap out a bit and went with a black aluminum reel seat.