How To Set Up Bait Cast Reel For Pitching ?

[ChrisD46]

With a normal bait cast reel set up I loosen the spool tension knob until the lure just barely starts to fall down vertically when the rod is held out at about a 45-degree angle (brakes set at 50%) . For short to moderate distance underhand pitches how are you setting up your bait cast reel (spool tension knob & brakes) without generating a "professional over run" (i.e. birds nest) ?

[dodgeguy]

Spool tension so spool is loose and has no play. Brakes about half of casting.when you get better loosen them up more.

[JediAmoeba]

For flipping and pitching I turn my brakes to 0 and use only my thumb. All you are using is the pendulum of the lure to pitch it so the rod isn't really loading up. It takes a bit of practice but once you master it, it's the best way imo.

[Mike L]

I don’t touch my brakes on any reel once they’re set. 

When flipping the reel in engaged and all you’re doing is releasing your line to where you what the bait to fall. 
No brake or casting knob adjustment needed. 
 

When pitching just loosen your knob enough to get a somewhat free fall depending on how far out you want to go. The amount of line you’re working with is controlled by your thumb throughout. 
 

 

 

Mike
 

[Tennessee Boy]

Backlashes are caused by a defective thumb.  Especially when pitching.  I set my tension where there is a tiny amount of play in the spool.  Brakes are set at 0 or 1.   If I let my bait free fall 4 feet without thumbing I will get a mild backlash.  
 

Take the time to learn to use your thumb.  An educated thumb is a feature that will transfer to every reel you own and every reel you will ever own.

[Bankbeater]

I had to play around with my reels to figure out how to set them for pitching.  I started out with tension loose, and the brakes at the lowest setting. I tightened everything up a little at a time.  After a while when the bait got hard to pitch I backed off on the tension and brakes.

[Skunkmaster-k]

I loosen my spool up when I’m pitching . Not sloppy loose, just a little looser than when I’m making long casts. I don’t mess with the brakes. Your thumb is your chum . 

[the reel ess]

3 hours ago, ChrisD46 said:

With a normal bait cast reel set up I loosen the spool tension knob until the lure just barely starts to fall down vertically when the rod is held out at about a 45-degree angle (brakes set at 50%) . For short to moderate distance underhand pitches how are you setting up your bait cast reel (spool tension knob & brakes) without generating a "professional over run" (i.e. birds nest) ?

The same way I set it it to overhand cast. Your pitching rod will make a great regular T-rigged worm rod and you can do both with it all day long. 

[casts_by_fly]

My normal setup for regular casting is minimal spool tension and use the brakes to minimize overruns.  Then thumb tension for the rest.  For pitching, the spool speed is slow enough that the breaks don't come into play.  And, the spool tension is already minimized.  So I don't touch anything to pitch.  That's handy because I will pitch any given lure at any time the angle needs it.  I'll go so far as to pitch a spook way back into bushes if that's the lure the fish want and that's where they are living.  gotta watch the trebles, but more than doable.

[T-Billy]

No spool tension. Set brakes to where they work best for you.

[PhishLI]

5 hours ago, ChrisD46 said:

For short to moderate distance underhand pitches how are you setting up your bait cast reel (spool tension knob & brakes) without generating a "professional over run" (i.e. birds nest) ?

Is there a specific issue you're having? The only reason you'd end up with a bird's nest is that your thumb is off the spool at some point, and it should never leave on short/midrange pitches. The trick here is pitching with the flattest trajectory you can with as little arc-up as is practical. This is important, and too much spool tension will actually mess you up here. Also, the correct amount pitching pace, or speed, will keep your bait out in front of the spool, and will force you to use your thumb as the primary brake. Too slow of a pitch with lighter baits may induce you to have a light-switch thumb in order to get the distance you want, but that's where you'll lose contact leading to a blowup.

[Darth-Baiter]

great thread.

 

when i punch thick mats, the friction of the line rubbing on the green stuff was jacking me up badly.  i think i have it dialed..but it took a Daiwa SV to get me there. 

[T-Billy]

3 hours ago, PhishLI said:

The trick here is pitching with the flattest trajectory you can with as little arc-up as is practical. This is important, and too much spool tension will actually mess you up here. Also, the correct amount pitching pace, or speed, will keep your bait out in front of the spool, and will force you to use your thumb as the primary brake

This is critical to a quiet entry as well. Pitch low and fast, and thumb it in to the target. 

[casts_by_fly]

The good thing about pitching is that you can practice in the house or yard pretty easily. Rig up a jig or beaver and get to pitching. I usually have a rod next to my desk and more often than not I’ll be on work calls pitching to the leg of the couch in the next room. 

[MN Fisher]

1 hour ago, casts_by_fly said:

The good thing about pitching is that you can practice in the house

If you got the ceiling-height for it...upstairs my ceiling is only 8', downstairs it's 7'....try that with a 7'6" flipping stick.

[casts_by_fly]

2 hours ago, MN Fisher said:

If you got the ceiling-height for it...upstairs my ceiling is only 8', downstairs it's 7'....try that with a 7'6" flipping stick.

fair point. You can practice with shorter rods though. I pitch in my basement with 7’ rods in an 8’ ceiling. You just can’t do a tip lift at the end. You learn how to get lure speed with a low approach quickly!

[ChrisD46]

I appreciate the replies - I will teach myself the suggested set ups using a 5" stick worm , snelled 3/0 ~ 4/0 straight shank hook and a 3/16th oz. tungsten bullet weight for pitching in and around cover. I imagine every lure set up is different - a 1.5 oz. punch set up using a 4" Beaver style soft plastic will be a different set up than what I describe above with a stick worm .

[casts_by_fly]

36 minutes ago, ChrisD46 said:

I appreciate the replies - I will teach myself the suggested set ups using a 5" stick worm , snelled 3/0 ~ 4/0 straight shank hook and a 3/16th oz. tungsten bullet weight for pitching in and around cover. I imagine every lure set up is different - a 1.5 oz. punch set up using a 4" Beaver style soft plastic will be a different set up than what I describe above with a stick worm .

yes, they are a little different but the mechanics are the same. With lighter baits the friction of the line coming off the spool and going through the guides is a little more noticeable (especially with stiffer lines).  With heavier weights it’s less noticeable (I.e. not noticeable). With heavier weight you will need a little more thumb (or add just a little spool tension), but you’ll feel the rod tip flex more which gives you a bit more lure speed.  Start with whatever you’d normally use.  For me, that’s about a half ounce total bait weight which is a pretty easy starting weight.