2 Steering cables ?

[FishOn!GetTheNet]

So I have a ranger 350v that has 2 steering cables running to the motor the steering is ungodly hard to turn because one of the cables is gummed up or bent or something but when I unhooked it from the wheel  to pull out and measure the steering was infinitely better I’m just wondering if I have to have 2 or is one good enough I would love to not have to buy a new cable or system if I don’t have to really don’t want to try and fish new cable’s through either any body out there running just one?

[Crappiebasser]

One cable might be enough but I wouldn’t trust my life to one old cable. They used duals as a safety for the pressure of 150+ hp outboards running 50 and over mph.
 

Replace the cables, steering is not a place to cheap out.

[FishOn!GetTheNet]

Yeah my boat don’t run 50  it tops out at 43 I run 28-30 mph 99% of the time 

[Jig Man]

Don’t fool around with safety features.  There wouldn’t be a second cable if it weren’t necessary.

[Way2slow]

As mentioned, single cables are usually only used on boats with less than about 100hp.  Dual cables are usually used on larger motors because of the extra strain placed on the cables.  They are also used because in their push/pull configuration they can be adjusted for zero sloop in the steering, critical for faster boats to help control chine walk, (which this you don't have to worry about).  

Both do need to be replaced for the safety aspect. 

As a temporary measure, you can pull the ends out of the motor and keep working a blend of ATF and brake fluid into the.  Sometimes this helps for a while but the fact you have to pull the motor back from the boat on a lot of them usually doesn't make it worth the effort when you can buy a new pair of cables for around $300 and just go ahead and replace them.  

However, if you have to pay a shop to replace them, that price will probably triple.  Then I would look at upgrading it to hydraulic steering.  They are not a big deal to install, by someone that can read and follow directions.

Cables can be a pain in the butt to replace, insuring you have full travel in both directions.  The model and length are usually in small letters about a foot or so from the helm end but can be hard to see.

[detroit1]

Thanks Keith - you help alot of people on this site....

[Dogface]

1 hour ago, Way2slow said:

As a temporary measure, you can pull the ends out of the motor and keep working a blend of ATF and brake fluid into the.  Sometimes this helps for a while but the fact you have to pull the motor back from the boat on a lot of them usually doesn't make it worth the effort when you can buy a new pair of cables for around $300 and just go ahead and replace them.  

 

 

If the only problem is that it is gummed up I'd try to clean it up. They make a tool to lube shielded cables. I used it on my throttle and shift cables. 

 

The tool I used was loaned to me and I do not have it handy to refer to right now. I'll try to find the name and info. It was not hard to do and it worked. 

[Way2slow]

Actually, the problem is normally caused by the fact the inner strands are rusted and causing a lot of drag on the inner housing.   The trans flued and brake fluid help break down some of the rust and put a small amount of lubricant on the inners.  

What can happen, even though I've never seen it but once, but that once was enough to scare the total crop out of the operator, the rust can cause one of the inner strands to break and jam the cable up inside.  Creating a total lack of being able to turn the wheel.  That could ruin your day.

[TnRiver46]

57 minutes ago, Way2slow said:

Actually, the problem is normally caused by the fact the inner strands are rusted and causing a lot of drag on the inner housing.   The trans flued and brake fluid help break down some of the rust and put a small amount of lubricant on the inners.  

What can happen, even though I've never seen it but once, but that once was enough to scare the total crop out of the operator, the rust can cause one of the inner strands to break and jam the cable up inside.  Creating a total lack of being able to turn the wheel.  That could ruin your day.

That happened to me with a 70s model 30 Johnson, couldn’t turn on a frozen morning. Tried to work the wheel and it all just crapped out. Had to drive straight, cut the motor and rudder over toward the bank with a paddle . The things we do for 15” bass……….

 

once Monday came I got a new steering cable, all good haha

[FishOn!GetTheNet]

Thanks everyone I appreciate it I think I’m just going to go Hydrolic so I don’t have to pull the motor 

[Way2slow]

Pulling the motor depends on how the cables are routed out of the hull.  Some you can do without pulling it.  If they come out at the splash well, then you may have to pull it.  If the come out the back, then generally you don't have to pull it.  Even installing hydraulic steering, you've still got to get the cables out of the motor, which a side grinder and cutoff wheel will take care of that.  Just don't think you are going to take a hacksaw and cut them off, that AIN'T gonna happen.