Recommend a First Baitcaster for Long-Time Spinning Reel Fisherman?

[07Rapala]

57 minutes ago, GetFishorDieTryin said:

Surprised no one else has recommended the SLX DC

I was initially interested in the SLX DC,  but some reading I had done suggested it was not good for beginners. These sources never said why. Perhaps it’s like learning to drive an automatic and never learning to drive stick?

[Lead Head]

I have used both DC and SV reels a lot recently. In my experience, SV reels offer the most hassle free casting experience with the shortest learning curve of any reel, and it isn't a close comparison. DC reels are great and are more user-friendly than most standard reels. All of the reels mentioned above will serve you well, but in my opinion, a SV spooled Daiwa fits your requirements the best.

 

I'll let others give rod recommendations, but will suggest you keep a eye on a rods maximum lure weight rating. Some MH cap at 3/4oz and others at 1oz. For the bigger fish and slop you are planning to target, I would suggest a rod with no less than a 1oz maximum lure rating. 

 

 

 

[Glenn]

Regardless of which reel you get, you're going to need this:

 

 

[07Rapala]

So I have been giving this some thought: What is the purpose of me buying a baitcasting set-up?  I need something more than just trying something new and expanding my skill-set to justify spending $300+ on a rod and reel. 
 

So what will a baitcasting set-up do better than, say a 4000-series spinning reel with 20 lbs braid on a 7’ MH rod?

 

From what I’ve been reading baitcasting reels allow for more accurate and longer casts. So, for one thing, I would say I’m good at accurate casts to structure (rocks, downed trees), but I could be better. So accurate casts and flipping/pitching should be my focus, I think, and around here fishing shallow structure also means you’re working though weeds as well. 

 

So I’d like to reframe this around what is a good first baitcasting set-up to accomplish something better than my spinning gear can.

 

Please correct me if I’m off-base. 

[islandbass]

7 hours ago, 12poundbass said:

Two answer your other question, if you cast with your left hand a reel with your right you’d want a right handed reel. I’m left handed as well and cast with my left and reel with my right, like you do.

I agree 100%. 
 

to the op: a reel is called left or right handed because it is telling us what hand will be turning the handle. It has nothing to do with an angler’s hand dominance. A “right-handed” reel will have the handle on the right side of the reel and consequently, the angler’s right hand will turn the crank — regardless of whether the angler is left or right-hand dominant. ?

[A kid from Canada]

Tatula Elite P/F is reel designed for just that. I've got a 7'10 MH Abu IKE rod that makes a good light flipping stick as well as being able to do other things. 

[PhishLI]

1 hour ago, 07Rapala said:

So I’d like to reframe this around what is a good first baitcasting set-up to accomplish something better than my spinning gear can.

Unless you're quite tall with a long torso and wide wingspan, I'd shorten up your rod a bit down from 7'6" if you'll be casting from a seated position. A rod that long will not enhance your accuracy, and it's a PIA to land a fish unless you have an extra-long net on board. Even if you cut it down to 6'10" you'll still be casting plenty far from a yak. Far enough at least, and your experience will be much better in general.

 

1 hour ago, 07Rapala said:

So what will a baitcasting set-up do better than, say a 4000-series spinning reel with 20 lbs braid on a 7’ MH rod?

You can stop your bait on a dime using your thumb, whether you're pitching, skipping, or casting. You may be able to do this now with your spinning rigs, but you'll do it better with a baitcaster. There's also a greater sense of connection with a baitcasting reel, IMO. Once you get past the growing pains, you'll probably agree with that. However, there will always be a few weirdos who prefer spinning gear no matter what, but you don't come across as weird.?

[Phil77]

I would suggest a cheap magnetic combo from walmart or any of the big box sporting goods stores. Not much a 7MH rod cant do and the gear ratio I would go with a 6 if your coming from spinning reels only. Most of the newer BC reels with mag brakes can be cast without thumbing with the brakes at max and the spool tension tight. You dont need to spend 300 plus for a first and maybe last venture, get comfortable with a cheapie then if you like it put the tackle monkey on your back and hand him your wallet.

[Big Hands]

2 hours ago, 07Rapala said:

So what will a baitcasting set-up do better than, say a 4000-series spinning reel with 20 lbs braid on a 7’ MH rod?

 

Reel in a fish. Once a fish has taken the bait, a baitcaster I-M-H-O is a much better tool.

[Reel]

Another vote for the SLX DC and an SLX rod.

[NavyToad]

If you crank with your left hand, get a left-handed baitcaster. After 30 years using spinning gear and cranking with my left hand, using a left hand baitcaster was the only way I could adjust to baitcasters.

[bulldog1935]

The Most Important thing switching from spinning to baitcast is getting spinning out of your head.  

Casting spinning tackle, jerk in your cast is rewarded with distance.  

 

Jerk with baitcast is start-up backlash.  

If your cast is smooth enough, it pretty much doesn't matter which reel you begin with.  If you bring bad habits from spinning, then a reel brake that compensates for bad habits is important.  

 

You might do better changing casting arms to keep the two casts separate.  

Coming from old school, I cast fly and bait with my left arm (jerk w/ fly rod is a tailing loop), and I cast spinning with my right arm.  

 

@07Rapala

I'll add this point about Daiwa's Mag-Force and SV brakes.  They are the most reliable and simplest to set up.  Adjust the mag for the lightest thing you're going to throw, and the moving brake rotor takes care of the rest.  

They also have the best aftermarket spool options for switching to light braid.  

[Fat Ika]

7 hours ago, 07Rapala said:

So I have been giving this some thought: What is the purpose of me buying a baitcasting set-up?  I need something more than just trying something new and expanding my skill-set to justify spending $300+ on a rod and reel. 
 

So what will a baitcasting set-up do better than, say a 4000-series spinning reel with 20 lbs braid on a 7’ MH rod?

 

From what I’ve been reading baitcasting reels allow for more accurate and longer casts. So, for one thing, I would say I’m good at accurate casts to structure (rocks, downed trees), but I could be better. So accurate casts and flipping/pitching should be my focus, I think, and around here fishing shallow structure also means you’re working though weeds as well. 

 

So I’d like to reframe this around what is a good first baitcasting set-up to accomplish something better than my spinning gear can.

 

Please correct me if I’m off-base. 

What others have mentioned.

 

In addition, in moderate to heavy grass, a heavy-mag heavy casting rod will be more effective, almost necessary. A med hvy spinning rod will be far less of an efficient flipping tool in grass. I guess you could use an extra heavy spinning rod in your preferred flipping length. Without knowledge or experience, not familiar with heavy action spinning rods with the length/taper for horsing out of grass. Drags on most casting reels will be more tolerant of forces vs most 4000 spinning reels. 
 

If looking to shorten the casting learning curve, an SV or DC reel would be a better choice imo. 
 

Practice flipping and pitching with casting gear. Amount of practice needed will vary depending on previous spinning flip/pitch experience, motor learning and motor potential. 
 

[BrianMDTX]

6 hours ago, PhishLI said:

You can stop your bait on a dime using your thumb, whether you're pitching, skipping, or casting.

To me, this is the best benefit. I can stop a bait with spinning rigs, but nowhere near as smooth and silent as I can with a baitcaster. 

[07Rapala]

Can someone explain to me what “SV” stands for?  
 

I get that “DC” is ‘digital control’ or something to that extent. 

[PhishLI]

6 minutes ago, 07Rapala said:

Can someone explain to me what “SV” stands for

Stress-Free Versatile

[Finessegenics]

I just realized my post ignored the last few questions you had.
 

If you want to fish in slop, then a heavy would be better. I say since it’s your first baitcaster, get an all rounder instead of focusing in on something technique specific. It will make it easier to learn and you won’t be as limited in what you can throw on that rod. 

 

Next, a 7 speed would be perfect. So no worries there. 
 

I’m a big guy on a kayak, so I can’t stand either. The thing about long rods on kayaks, is that they become annoying to fish with it if they have a longer than average handle length. So I guess it depends on the rod. If you really want a longer rod then go for something that’s 7’3 maybe? The longest rods I use are 7’4 and the butt sections are only slightly longer so it doesn’t really bother me. 
 

Lastly, just go with right handed reels (the handle on the right side of the reel) if you like to cast with the rod in your left hand. All my baitcasters are left handed (handle on the left side) because I cast with my right. I don’t know why the whole switching hands thing still exists. No disadvantages to not switching hands. 

8 hours ago, Glenn said:

Regardless of which reel you get, you're going to need this:

 

 

This the video that taught me how to use a baitcaster! 

[Jrob78]

9 hours ago, 07Rapala said:

So what will a baitcasting set-up do better than, say a 4000-series spinning reel with 20 lbs braid on a 7’ MH rod?

Everything

 

If I had to throw a 4000 size spinning reel on a MH rod for spinnerbaits, chatterbaits, crankbaits, jigs, frogs, pitching, plastics, etc....I don't think I would keep fishing

[WRB]

When the OP discusses he must be referring to Braid on spinning reels.

The big difference and cost factor today is weight, rod weight and reel weight balanced.

The St. Croix Marshall Victory rod suggested is very light in weight at 3.5 oz, and a Swiss Army knife for versatility. 

The OP is. Kayak angler that sits down, flipping and/or pitching requires standing up or sitting up high enough to be accurate. Toss that presentation out for now. The roll or loop cast can be very accurate sitting, but the rod tip needs to be appropriate. 

If Daiwa reels are in the mix the SV spool and TW reels are good.

If Dobyns rods are considered the DC 734 works,

Tom

[GetFishorDieTryin]

9 hours ago, 07Rapala said:

I was initially interested in the SLX DC,  but some reading I had done suggested it was not good for beginners. These sources never said why. Perhaps it’s like learning to drive an automatic and never learning to drive stick?

I completely disagree.  My neice, who doesnt fish at all, was able to use the reel with efficiency in a little over 2 hours and could skip by the end of the day.  Since the DCs are set and forget when it comes to brakes, theyre an excelent tool to learn how to use spool tension to get what you want out of the reel.  Automatic to manual is a great analogy.  

The Daiwa SV reels are a good option as well.  The SVs are better for shorter casts with lighter baits compared to the DC system thats in the SLX DC.  Since you currently use a MH spinning set up that will cast light baits at short distances, I feel the DC is the more practical tool to compliment youre situation.  

I grew up using heavy spinning gear in SW.  I didn't see the advantage of BC reels until I bought one.  The ability to cast heavy line long distances and take up line without twists or windknots is a huge benefit.  BC reels have more power then spinning reels for the most part.  With casting gear you can winch the fish in with just the reel, as opposed to spinning gear where you have to pump the rod and take up slack in between pumps on a bigger fish.  If you do decide to get in BC gear, I can promise after the first good fish you understand why they are so popular and will most likely never want to throw a bigger bait on spinning gear again.  I still use heavy spinning gear in the surf, but thats mostly because BC reels are very suceptable and vulnerable to saltwater/sand intrusion by the nature of the design and my bigger spinning reels are 100% waterproof when I take a wave or splash I dont have to strip the reel down when I get home to avoid equipment failure.  

[dodgeguy]

3 hours ago, NavyToad said:

If you crank with your left hand, get a left-handed baitcaster. After 30 years using spinning gear and cranking with my left hand, using a left hand baitcaster was the only way I could adjust to baitcasters.

After 34 years of right handed baitcasters I switched all to lefty. Still getting used to it but I do like it better. 

[PhishLI]

4 hours ago, WRB said:

The OP is. Kayak angler that sits down, flipping and/or pitching requires standing up or sitting up high enough to be accurate.

I agree on the flipping part, but not the pitching part. I do it often. It simply requires a shorter rod than usual that complements the dimensions of the person using it. While it is a horizonal motion, it works, and comes in handy. It allows for a touch which is lighter than a roll cast.

[Pat Brown]

On 2/12/2023 at 1:53 AM, 07Rapala said:

So I have been giving this some thought: What is the purpose of me buying a baitcasting set-up?  I need something more than just trying something new and expanding my skill-set to justify spending $300+ on a rod and reel. 
 

So what will a baitcasting set-up do better than, say a 4000-series spinning reel with 20 lbs braid on a 7’ MH rod?

 

From what I’ve been reading baitcasting reels allow for more accurate and longer casts. So, for one thing, I would say I’m good at accurate casts to structure (rocks, downed trees), but I could be better. So accurate casts and flipping/pitching should be my focus, I think, and around here fishing shallow structure also means you’re working though weeds as well. 

 

So I’d like to reframe this around what is a good first baitcasting set-up to accomplish something better than my spinning gear can.

 

Please correct me if I’m off-base. 

 

 

My younger brother is from Western North Carolina and kayak fishes a lot in the rivers up there and he does not understand why I use baitcasters because he's basically drifting down a river and casting as far as he can to try to get river smallies to bite little lures.

 

When I talk to him about fishing for largemouth in Central NC he makes fun of me for using 20 lb fluorocarbon and a 7 and 1/2 ft. Flipping stick and an 8-speed aluminum winch to reel a bass in.

 

His personal best is somewhere around 2 and 1/2 lb. Last year I caught close to 50 fish that were over 5 lb. Most of them came out of trees that were no more than 10 ft away from me that I threw my jig directly into.

 

It's just a different game completely and a spinning reel just doesn't do the job.

 

For crankbaits and jerk baits and finesse presentations and things where you're going to do long casts and don't need massive amounts of hook penetration (lighter line and hooks) a spinning reel is perfectly adequate.

 

It all boils down to where the fish you're targeting live at.

 

The big ones always seem to live in some stuff that would snap 12 lb line like it was nothing around these parts so no point in playing games with them.  Broken off plenty of giants using 7'6 and 20 lb line but I know I'd have broken off or not even hooked a darn site more without it.  etc etc etc

 

I really like the Daiwa Fuego compared to even my 2-300$ reels.  You can pretty much just stick to those and never look back and be fine.

 

 

[LonnieP]

Daiwa with SV spool is easiest to set up and learn with.

[Darth-Baiter]

i am no expert.  i still have the occasional Backlash adventures.  

 

but i bet dollars to donuts even my BIL could cast my Daiwa Tatula SV.  just a garden variety reel that is easy...you should see my BIL shoot a handgun...he would backlash a DC reel beyond hope.