Forward Facing Sonar - Dedicated Battery? Higher Voltage?

[immortl]

@casts_by_fly got me thinking and trying to research this in my other Electronics Validation thread.  Breaking this particular topic out here. 

 

For FFS (Live Target 2 in this case) I am wondering about 2 questions.  Curious about other folks' thoughts or experiences.

 

1) Should the FFS be completely on its very own dedicated battery?  I know it should not be on a battery with a motor, but what about the head units and down sonar?  Assuming LiFePO battery and a proper wiring job/connections, could the head units or down sonar cause issues?  Lowrance support said it wouldn't hurt 'just in case' but didn't have a firm recommendation.  Thegpsstore didn't think a head unit and down sonar would cause any issues.  What say you all?

 

2) FFS Voltage - Assuming LiFePO battery and again a solid proper wiring job/connections, is there any gain to running the Live Target 2 at a higher voltage?   Amped Outdoors seems to think yes and sells a 16v battery targeted for FFS.  Lowrance support said no, not really, the high range of acceptable input voltage is for efficiency on longer cable runs.  They couldn't tell me what the voltage is stepped down internally by the power supply nor if it was even stepped down.  Wish they could, if it was stepped down, great, I'd know what to run it at.  If it isn't then maybe there is something to running higher voltage.  Anyways, thegpsstore didn't think it would matter.  I have read some posts elsewhere where people saw enhanced performance/resolution going from lead acid batteries to lithium batteries, theorizing the higher/more consistent voltage helped.  That makes sense to me.  But what about going from 12/13v lithium up to 16v, what say the fine folks here?  Has anyone done it and seen a benefit?

 

Thanks,

Joe

[casts_by_fly]

Given how many pros are running FFS along with other head units, go pro chargers, house lights, aerators, and everything else off of a house battery, I wouldn't be worried about combining things into one battery.

[Tennessee Boy]

I don’t like the logic of saying higher voltage must be better without any solid reason other than a company that sells higher voltage batteries says so.  Higher resolution from higher voltage is really a stretch.   I was having problems with my Humminbird electronics due to low voltage until I switched to a dedicated LiFePO4 battery.  I was having problems with things dropping off the network and occasionally low voltage warnings after a long day.  The new battery fixed the problems but I don’t see any changes in performance such as higher resolution or improved Mega live images.

[immortl]

19 minutes ago, Tennessee Boy said:

I don’t like the logic of saying higher voltage must be better without any solid reason other than a company that sells higher voltage batteries says so.  Higher resolution from higher voltage is really a stretch.   I was having problems with my Humminbird electronics due to low voltage until I switched to a dedicated LiFePO4 battery.  I was having problems with things dropping off the network and occasionally low voltage warnings after a long day.  The new battery fixed the problems but I don’t see any changes in performance such as higher resolution or improved Mega live images.

This is kind of what I was suspecting, low voltage bad, but once you deliver a solid and constant 12-13v, things are good.  I'll see if I can find out any more info at the Harrisburg Outdoor Show tomorrow.  Still searching around for info.

[immortl]

So Harrisburg show was more hunting/shooting focused.  Some fishing, but really no fishing electronics dealers nor manufacturers that I saw.  I found our yesterday that the more fishing oriented Suffern NY show was cancelled/rescheduled to Jan 2024 and relocated to NJ so no shows in March around here .  Didn't learn anything new.

[Woody B]

Most (or maybe all) sonar units have voltage regulators.  All 16 volts is going to accomplish is generating excess heat due to the voltage regulator bleed off the excess voltage.   IF (big if) you have an adequate cranking battery I don't think there's any advantage to a dedicated electronics battery.   It's my belief that the people who get better results with a dedicated electronics do so because installed dedicated electronics wiring when they installed the dedicated battery.  

 

I had my electronics powered by the wiring that came from the factory on my boat.  I installed a dedicated fuse block and wiring for my electronics and got clearer images.  You don't want anything powered by the same batteries as the trolling motor.  

 

Again, my somewhat educated/experienced opinion.  16 volts works good on racecars.  I don't believe it's a good idea for boats.  I also believe dedicated wiring will help, but a dedicated battery isn't necessary.   The only reason I see for a dedicated electronics battery is if you're going to be running your cranking battery down.  

 

I've never heard of a dedicated battery just for the active target/live scope unit.   I turn my active target on and off via the yellow wake up wire from a graph.  This wouldn't work if the a/t was on a separate battery.   

 

You do need good clean wiring with good solid connections.  

[WIGuide]

Active Target is fine to run on the same battery as your head units. As long as you have good power and good connections you'll have great images. As far as running AT at a higher voltage, you can run it at 12V or 24V. From a few screen shot's I've seen elsewhere on the interwebs I really see no difference at the higher voltage. I saw a video a while ago on doing the same with livescope and you can take a look for yourself. 

 

[immortl]

Thanks guys. I'll check out the video between meetings today.

 

This is all going on a kayak.  Closest I'll come to a bass boat for a while and am 'overdoing' it, this will not be a 'simplify' project.  Planning on 2 batteries.  One for trolling motor, one for electronics.  I have all marine grade tinned copper wiring of appropriate gauge to run (6 AWG for power off batteries to trolling motor and distribution block for electronics, 14 AWG for individual electronics such as AT2 and head unit).  Even the inline fuse inserts have tinned copper leads (these took me a few minutes to find) and have appropriately sized 6 and 14 AWG leads.  And all butt connectors are also tinned copper uninsulated ones that I'll put marine grade shrink tube over.  Should have good connections and clean flow of electricity to everything.  Have an assortment of crimpers and a soldering iron to make sure everything is crimped properly.  Looking forward to using the hydraulic crimpers   Never turn down an opportunity to justify new tools.

 

Thanks,

Joe