Adding flexcoat

[Bass Junke]

My finish work improves so much with each build. The finish work on my first couple of builds isn't great. I was trying not to create footballs and as a result, the finish work I am unhappy with is on the thin side. Can I go back and add another coat of flex coat? Is there something I should do before applying another coat? 

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

Extra costs can be added. Usually before 24 Hrs or after 48 check directions for your brand. Iightly sand with 400> finish as usual 

[GlennMc7]

Unless you did not epoxy over all the thread and you have thread showing there is know need to put a second coat on, because all it does is add more football effects and more weight to your rod build.

[MickD]

One thing that you can try in the future, if you have not already done so, is the Lite variety of wrap epoxy.  That is what I prefer, and in most cases with guide wraps I only need one coat and don't get footballs.  On decals and other longer lengths of coverage I often will use two coats, having found a defect of some sort in the coverage.  Usually dust.  

[Bass Junke]

Thanks guys. So my first 4 builds were really lite on the coverage. Mick, I do use the lite build. I did end up going through with my little project. I'm pretty happy, the finish work looks a little more professional now. In the end I might have ended up with a football or two, overall I feel it was worth it. 

[MickD]

I see posts on forums of builders taking excess epoxy off the wraps, which brings up the question: why is there excess epoxy to take off?  I never take any excess epoxy off.  And I never get footballs.  Wavy epoxy is often caused by two issues: Applying heat and applying too much epoxy.  I would rather "fix" a wrap with another coat of lite than fight footballs and waves.  Without regard for my practices, develop what works the way you want it for you. Then do it that way every time.

[Sam Kirk]

I have to use Flex Coat on my rod tomorrow. After reading this I am a little cautious now. I is a big help to read this.

[Chris Catignani]

This is how it usually goes for me...regardless of what type of finish I use.
I will apply what I consider a good "covering" coat. This is typically on the thinner side.
Once that coat cures...there is always an area where the thread is barley peeking through finish. I will apply a second thin coat and that is usually good enough. I have in the past put on a thick first (and only) coat...but it seems like there is always something else that needed epoxy too and end up mixing a second batch anyway. So I find that using two coats is a just good idea.

 

...on a side note. Ever since I started using the sealing caps I have been using various measurements of resin and hardener: 2cc each, 1cc each and even .5cc each. The caps let me invert the bottle and get whatever amount of resin/hardener I think I might need. I didn't always do this...for the longest time I just used 3cc each. The thinking was that if I miss measured by say  .1cc of a 3cc mix...then the error would be .03% as opposed to .1cc of 1cc mix (.1% error). But I feel like the syringes are very accurate.

[MickD]

12 hours ago, Chris Catignani said:

This is typically on the thinner side.
Once that coat cures...there is always an area where the thread is barley peeking through finish. I will apply a second thin coat and that is usually good enough.

Very good point, often the same for me.  When you think about it, it's sort of hard to get an uneven coat of epoxy if it's a minimal coating to begin with. 

[Chris Catignani]

3 minutes ago, MickD said:

Very good point, often the same for me.  When you think about it, it's sort of hard to get an uneven coat of epoxy if it's a minimal coating to begin with. 

Agreed...Like I mentioned earlier...I am always needing to mix a second batch...either for a decal, a hook keeper, cross wraps are notorious for needing two coats.

[1984isNOW]

I have gone the way of Bill Falconer, I like his method. I've only actually done it on a couple of rods, and I didn't quite follow it exactly because I'm not selling and don't have the time that he does to wait for partial curing to apply, plus my basement never breaks 64 degrees. 

 

My first coat is heavy to soak through the threads with certainty, excess is lightly heated and removed. Then a second coat with less epoxy but still a light heating to remove just enough to leave a thin layer.

 

My first couple rods before doing this method after the first application I could feel the ridges of the thread wraps, clearly needing a second coat. Just coated them. I think it turned out fine, but now I feel like I'm using less total epoxy by the end and having more confidence in its holding strength. I also switched to Gen 4, I can't remember the feel of the flex coat but gen 4 feels good.

 

I'm also experimenting with wrapping from the ankle down to the toes, but not going off of the guide. This results in less thread and less epoxy and less weight. My friend Mick has assured me that a difference can be measured and even felt when using Ti guides, this to me would indicate that the grams I'm shaving are making a difference on a rod with 8-11 guides.