Removing Flexcoat

[Bass Junke]

I just finished a spinning rod using my first Immortal blank. This is the ninth rod I've built. It came out great. I had one issue. I applied the label that ships with the blank just ahead of the reel seat pretty much like I have done on the previous 8 rods. The label lifted under the lite build. I had to remove it which left a thin layer of Flexcoat on the blank. I'm stubborn so I took the second label that comes with the blank and applied it to the section between the split grips thinking the larger diameter of the butt will be easier to stick to. Well that pretty much lifted right off the blank under the second coat of lite build. 

 

I use Scotchbrite and scuff up the sections of the blank that gets epoxy, I did not think it was a good idea to do this where I would apply a clear label. The Immortal blank has a much slicker finish than the Revelation blanks I have been using. I have blank number 10 waiting for the components to arrive. It is also an Immortal blank, 7'2" MH casting rod. I think it is going to be a C-rig rod. I don't think I will be applying labels to that blank. 

 

A couple of questions. I have been picking away at the remaining flex coat with my fingernail, it is a slow process. Anything else I could do? 

Th other question is what is good for writing on blanks by hand? I have pretty steady hand. Might go this route in the future. 

[Chris Catignani]

9 minutes ago, Bass Junke said:

A couple of questions. I have been picking away at the remaining flex coat with my fingernail, it is a slow process. Anything else I could do? 

Th other question is what is good for writing on blanks by hand? I have pretty steady hand. Might go this route in the future. 

I would just take a dull knife and scrap off the epoxy...not worrying so much about scratches on the blank.

Get it looking uniform with green scotchbrite pad...and then just refinish it with PermaGlos.

I will sometime write on a blank with a white Sakura Jelly Roll #8.

[MickD]

One thing you can do if the blank gets messed up is to lay a layer of appropriately colored thread down on the now cleaned-up blank, CP and epoxy it, and put your decal and writing over it.  It will look fine.  My motto:  If you can't fix it,  feature it. 

 

To get peel and stick decals to stick well under any epoxy (the problem is not Flex Coat lite) try the following:  

1.  Lightly burnish the blank with scotch pad.    Epoxy will make the light burnishing disappear.

2.  Apply the decal and VERY vigorously, with the backing for the decal between your burnishing tool and the decal, burnish it over its whole area, concentrating expecially on the edges.  You want the decal pressed on very hard over its whole area.

3. Apply a thin coat of CP on the decal and especially seal the edges.  Don't worry, it will disappear too.  

4.  Apply your epoxy coat.

[Alex from GA]

I have tried to apply decals to 3 Immortal blanks with no success.  The fish decals work OK but the ones that come with the blank didn't.

[MickD]

Alex, are these peel and stick or the transfer when burnished types?  If the former, try the above method.  If the latter, give us details on your process and we may be able to help.  I think the transfers are trickier, but it can be done.  

[Bass Junke]

21 hours ago, MickD said:

One thing you can do if the blank gets messed up is to lay a layer of appropriately colored thread down on the now cleaned-up blank, CP and epoxy it, and put your decal and writing over it.  It will look fine.  My motto:  If you can't fix it,  feature it. 

 

To get peel and stick decals to stick well under any epoxy (the problem is not Flex Coat lite) try the following:  

1.  Lightly burnish the blank with scotch pad.    Epoxy will make the light burnishing disappear.

2.  Apply the decal and VERY vigorously, with the backing for the decal between your burnishing tool and the decal, burnish it over its whole area, concentrating expecially on the edges.  You want the decal pressed on very hard over its whole area.

3. Apply a thin coat of CP on the decal and especially seal the edges.  Don't worry, it will disappear too.  

4.  Apply your epoxy coat.

Good Motto Mick. Thanks for the advise, wasn't sure scuffing up the blank would show through. It is not really a big deal, can't really see it just feel it, it's a pretty thin coat. 

So CP. Color preserver? Okay so school me on color preserver. I have only used it on my thread wraps. 

[MickD]

4 hours ago, Bass Junke said:

Good Motto Mick. Thanks for the advise, wasn't sure scuffing up the blank would show through. It is not really a big deal, can't really see it just feel it, it's a pretty thin coat. 

So CP. Color preserver? Okay so school me on color preserver. I have only used it on my thread wraps. 

Yes, color preservative.  Any of them will work for this. I use Flex Coat, water based, have for years.  Since it works through a solid that is in suspension you have to mix it/shake it every time you use it.  It goes on white and is transparent when it dries.  I think the mechanism of failure of decal edges and epoxy is that the epoxy stays fluid so long it has time to work on the edges of the decals.  CP dries fairly quickly and seals before the edge is compromised.  I tried a clear CP years ago and it didn't work as well as Flex Coat, so I've stuck with Flex Coat.  

[Lead Head]

I have read of people using clear nail polish on the edges to hold decals in place. I have never tried it myself, so I can't say how well it works. I am always worried it will discolor over time. 

 

When I first started building on NFC blanks, I started putting down a thin layer of epoxy under my decals to give myself a smooth surface. After a few rods, I noticed most of my decal headaches went away. Now I always put a thin layer of epoxy under my decals on all blanks.

 

 

[Chris Catignani]

On 12/8/2022 at 8:11 AM, Lead Head said:

I have read of people using clear nail polish on the edges to hold decals in place. I have never tried it myself, so I can't say how well it works. I am always worried it will discolor over time. 

 

When I first started building on NFC blanks, I started putting down a thin layer of epoxy under my decals to give myself a smooth surface. After a few rods, I noticed most of my decal headaches went away. Now I always put a thin layer of epoxy under my decals on all blanks.

 

 

Totally agree. The same goes for water slide decals...they tend to adhere better on a thin layer of epoxy.

[S Hovanec]

My method for applying peel n stick decals is to apply a coat of finish where the decal is to be placed and let it cure, then apply the decal.  Put a coat of finish over the decal.

 

The fresh, perfectly smooth coat of finish allows the decal to stick better than it will on the bare blank.

[Jigfishn10]

On 12/6/2022 at 12:42 PM, Chris Catignani said:

I would just take a dull knife and scrap off the epoxy...not worrying so much about scratches on the blank.

Get it looking uniform with green scotchbrite pad...and then just refinish it with PermaGlos.

I will sometime write on a blank with a white Sakura Jelly Roll #8.

Perfect! That's the way I learned it.

[Alex from GA]

Mick,  They're the peel and stick kind that come with Rainforrest blanks.  My problem has to be not putting finish on the bare rod before applying the decal.

[MickD]

Could be, but I don't put finish on before applying those decals.  I think if you follow the process I suggested you'll have success with that type decal.  Make sure you burnish aggressively especially at the edges and use some CP.  Always works.  

[Alex from GA]

I'm out of decals but sent for more.