Daiwa Zero Adjuster Knob Question

[ghost]

I'm looking to pull the trigger on a Daiwa Tatula SV TW 70.

 

I notice that the tension knob is a zero adjuster knob. I'm not too familiar with this concept, I've looked at youtube and googled what it meant. Also I've talked to a couple sales guys at fishing stores about the zero adjuster, and what they tell me is you don't adjust the tension knob at all.

 

I guess I'm old school and not being able to adjust the tension knob seems odd. The sales guy I talked to said if I adjust the zero adjust knob so many times, it will mess up the SV system.

 

How true is this and what can you tell me about Daiwa's zero adjuster? That's my hang up about getting this reel. I feel that to get optimum casting depending on a lure, you need to adjust the tension knob. 

 

 

[Columbia Craw]

First of all, can you get the SV70 for less than $191.00?  You can get a JDM Alphas TWSV for that price.  
 

My understanding is the CC knob is featured as the optimum factory setting to correspond with the magnetic setting range.  However, the knob is adjustable and I have done so on a couple of my zero adjust models.  If one wants to oil the bearing under the spool cap you have to readjust so how is it a zero adjust?  The factory setting is more of a default in my opinion.  I’m no expert on this but that’s my experience.

[Revival]

I have adjusted every single one of my zero adjuster knobs.

 

Some people leave it as is.  Some people adjust it.

 

I have purchased multiple reels that were preset differently from the factory out of the box.

 

 

[MickD]

Just fired up a new Tatula SV 103 with that knob, and found the factory setting a little looser than I would have thought it would be.  When I adjusted it tighter it cost me significant casting distance, so I'm back probably very close to the factory adjustment.  There is no reason why you should be wary of trying other settings, you are not going to screw anything up.  

 

Sweet reel.

[Tatulatard]

All my cc knobs are set and forget.  Set for a smidgen of side to side play on all reels across all brands and leave there.  

[bulldog1935]

When you swap a spool, you have to open the "zero adjust" knob so you don't damage anything closing the palm plate latch - this is because all spool spindle widths vary just enough to be dangerous.   You should open the knob every time you open the palm plate latch. 

When you have the palm plate latch closed, the spool should have too much side play because you opened the zero adjust knob. 

With the clutch in freespool, tighten the zero adjust knob to dial out the side play to the point of just finding incipient side play - now you're as good as the Daiwa factory - all done. 

 

the knob is made to be hard to get to, so you won't randomly change it while fishing.

It's not made to tension the spool, there's no need for it. 

 

Can't imagine what you could damage in the SV, but you can definitely damage the palm plate latch.  I think the salesman was fishing for an answer. 

If you try fishing with spool tension, you'll likely defeat the function and purpose of the SV brake, and won't cast to the potential of the reel. 

 

 

[ZillyWabbit]

6 hours ago, Columbia Craw said:

First of all, can you get the SV70 for less than $191.00?  You can get a JDM Alphas TWSV for that price.  
 

My understanding is the CC knob is featured as the optimum factory setting to correspond with the magnetic setting range.  However, the knob is adjustable and I have done so on a couple of my zero adjust models.  If one wants to oil the bearing under the spool cap you have to readjust so how is it a zero adjust?  The factory setting is more of a default in my opinion.  I’m no expert on this but that’s my experience.

Even cheaper for that Alphas. https://japantackle.com/reg0000294.html

[FrnkNsteen]

1 hour ago, Tatulatard said:

All my cc knobs are set and forget.  Set for a smidgen of side to side play on all reels across all brands and leave there.  

Same here! All my Daiwas are set the same way. Brakes take it from there

[Jrob78]

3 hours ago, Tatulatard said:

All my cc knobs are set and forget.  Set for a smidgen of side to side play on all reels across all brands and leave there.  

This is the way. Set the cast control a little loose and use the brakes to control the spool.

[AlabamaSpothunter]

I adjusted both of my new Daiwas a little out of the box, then never touched the dial again.  From that moment on I haven't had a backlash on either.    Heck I hardly even have to mess with the brakes.

 

You really can't stress how brilliant this design is, and how much time it saves by never having to tweak your reel.  

[Bass Rutten]

The term “zero adjust” is daiwa marketing speak, any casting reel from abu to zebco can be “zero adjusted” by simply turning its tension knob, it’s not an actual mechanical feature exclusive to daiwa.

[Darth-Baiter]

Mine was very clacky out of the box.  I tightened it ever so slightly to reduce side to side and it casts like a dream.  It’s a pitching favorite of mine. 

[PressuredFishing]

I understand, I have a diawa tatula sv tw and have also always adjusted spool tension for different lure weights, usually  lighter lures=more brake less tension and heavier lures are more tension less brake. I have adjusted it a ton and while the factory settings where nice, I feel I can get a few more yards by adjusting for each lure. 

[FishTank]

I adjust mine on occasion but very little.  It just depends on the lure and the wind conditions. In general though,  once it's dialed in, it's good to go for about 90% of my fishing. 

[Blaine Donders]

I adjust them once out of the box, that’s it. 1/2 a mil side to side play, never touch again. And I have 12 of them.

[Tatulatard]

49 minutes ago, Bass Rutten said:

The term “zero adjust” is daiwa marketing speak, any casting reel from abu to zebco can be “zero adjusted” by simply turning its tension knob, it’s not an actual mechanical feature exclusive to daiwa.

Correct.  Daiwa just got annoyed and put a hard to turn knob on the newer reels.  If you want to pull your hair out read tw  reviews about how hard it is to adjust the knobs.  People still tighten it.

[Dash Riprock]

I have the Tatula SV-TW103, same system I think, with that "zero adjuster" knob. I didn't realize what that meant when I bought the reel and started monkeying around with it right out of the box. I thought it weird that the tension adjuster was so hard to access but didn't understand why at the time.

 

At some point I started googling it and got even more confused. I had acquired a Tatula CT shortly after that which, I thought, had the same braking system but didn't have a "zero adjust" knob. I still don't understand why but oh well.

 

I ended up readjusting it to the best of what I could tell the factory setting must have been, which is a barely perceptible side to side spool wobble, and now I just mess with the brake setting when I need to. Which isn't often, this reel is amazing. Whatever this brake system is (Magforce? Magforce Z? I dunno, again it's very confusing) is as far as I'm concerned the holy grail of brake systems. 

[Tatulatard]

Its not even a daiwa thing but let's assume it is for the sake of argument.  All daiwas are basically zero adjust. I have reels from 2007 I set up the same as a modern daiwa.  The "zero adjust" isn't new.  They just put a hard to turn knob on in recent years to force you into doing what you were supposed to do all along.